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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Men’s Houston Henley
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This t-shirt sewing pattern is comfy and stylish with a crew neck, front button-up placket, and curved hem. There are also two sleeve lengths so you can wear the Houston throughout the year.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes Men’s XXS-4XL.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size you fall into on our size chart, rather than the size you’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade in or out to the correct waist and hip size.
- Height – The men’s sizes are drafted for a height of 5 foot 10 inches. If your height is above or below these, use this tutorial as a guide for making height adjustments to your shirt and sleeve.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished garment measurement above. If your measurement is larger, use this tutorial as a guide for making bicep adjustments to the sleeves.
- To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin first. This is how I would recommend you muslin this tee:
- Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out all pieces. Label each with tailorstailor’s chalk or a fabric pen
- Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sewing your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a 2-way stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, the best results and fit will be achieved by using a light or medium weight fabric such as cotton jersey, cotton lycra, cotton rib, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your shirt maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and doesn’t become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- 3x ½ inch wide Buttons/Snaps
- Mid-Weight Knit Woven Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Iron-on Fusible Tape – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear Elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front – cut 1 on fold
- Back – cut 1 on fold
- Neckband – cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – cut 2 on fold
- Top Placket – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 2
- Bottom Placket – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Front Interfacing – cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewHouston Henley
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Houston Henley is a classic yet stylish everyday top, with optional short or long sleeves. It is slim fit through the body, with slightly dropped shoulders. The crew neck is created with a fold over neckband and finished with a wide front placket. And finally, the curved hem gives the Henley a beautiful finish.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Mens XXS - 4XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Men’s Size Chart
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
cm
Inches
cm
Inches
cm
XXS
32
81
27
68.5
33
84
XS
33
84
28
71
33
84
S
35
89
29
74
35
89
M
39
99
32
81
38
96.5
L
43
109
35
89
41
104
XL
47
119
38
96.5
43
109
XXL
51
129.5
43
109
46
117
3XL
55
140
48
122
48
122
4XL
59
150
52
132
50
127
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Bicep
Length
Circumference
Center Back to Hem
Long Sleeve
Short Sleeve
Hem
Long Sleeve Hem
Short Sleeve Hem
XXS
33.4
10.7
27
24
8.3
36.2
8.7
11.2
XS
34.4
11.4
27.2
24.2
8.3
36.2
9
12
S
36.6
12.2
27.5
24.4
8.5
38.3
9.1
12.5
M
40.4
13
28
24.6
8.6
41.2
9.5
13.2
L
44.4
13.7
28.3
25
9
44.2
10
14.1
XL
48.4
14.7
29
25
9.1
46.2
10.3
15
XXL
52.4
15.5
29.5
25.2
9.2
49.2
11.1
16
3XL
56.4
16.5
30.1
25.4
9.4
51.2
11.2
16.7
4XL
60.4
17.3
30.7
25.6
9.6
53.3
11.6
17.6
Fitting NotesThe Houston Henley is a slim fitting shirt.
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
XXS
1
1.25
XS
1
1.25
M
1
1.75
L
1.25
2
XL
1.25
2
XXL
1.25
2
3XL
1.5
2
4XL
1.75
2
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Short Sleeve Long Sleeve XXS – S 2-10, 12-17 2-10, 12-17, 18-19 M 2-10, 12-17, 20 2-10, 12-17, 18-20 L – XL 2-10, 12-17, 20-21 2-10, 12-17, 18-21 XXL – 3XL 2-11, 12-17, 20-21 2-11, 12-17, 18-21 4XL 2-11, 12-17, 20-21 2-11, 12-17, 18-22 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Short Sleeve Long Sleeve XXS – S 2-3, 5-8, 10-13, 15-18, 20 2-3, 5-8, 10-13, 15-20 M – XL 2-3, 5-18, 20 2-3, 5-20 XXL – 4XL 2-18, 20 2-20 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Top Placket
(Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 1)Bottom Placket
(Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1)Front Interfacing
(Cut 1)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS – 4XL
2.6
6.7
4.4
6.7
2.5
5.6
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting - + Instructions
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to Top and Bottom Placket pieces, and along the Placket markings on the wrong side of the Front.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings to fabric.
- PLACKET CUT LINES – Cut the Placket cut line on the Front and the horizontal cut line.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch Front and Back at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Press.
- PLACKET – Stitch the Top Plackets right sides together. Press seam open. Press memory hem on both long edges. Repeat memory hems with Bottom Placket. Press in half. Open the Top Placket and match to the neck with the wrong side to the right side of the shirt, baste. Repeat with the bottom Placket. Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, pin to neckline. Fold Plackets over Neckband, stitch, turn, topstitch. Align both Plackets with pattern markings. Topstitch top Placket along long edge on the shirt side of the Placket. Move the bottom Placket to wrong side of the Front, then repeat for the other Placket. Finish bottom of the bottom Placket. Fold bottom of the top Placket ½ inch. Align Plackets, stitch 1.5 by 1-inch rectangle on bottom folded edge. Stitch Buttonholes.
- SLEEVES – Stitch Sleeve to Shirt, right sides together. Press.
- MEMORY HEM – Fold bottom of Sleeve ½ inch to wrong side, press. Repeat for the other Sleeve, Front and Back.
- SIDE SEAMS – Place Front to Back right sides together along side seams stitch. Repeat on the other side.
- HEM – Refold memory hem, topstitch close to raw edge. Repeat for both Sleeves.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch
0.1Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the Placket interfacing to the wrong side of both the Top and Bottom Placket pieces. Apply the Front Interfacing centered along the Placket cut line markings on the wrong side of the Front.
This will give structure to the Placket and prevent the buttons or snaps from pulling or tearing when buttoning or unbuttoning them.
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric using your favorite method.
0.3Placket Cut Lines
Cut along the Placket cut line on the Front.
Snip a ⅞ inch horizontal line on each side of the Placket cut line along the bottom of the Placket horizontal cut line. This will end up being just shy of 1 inch on either side of the Placket cut line.
1 . Shoulder Seams1.1With right sides together, pin the Front to the Back at a shoulder.
2 . Placket2.1Place the two Top Placket pieces right sides together. Pin.
2.3On each long edge, press a ⅜ inch memory hem towards the wrong side.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment.
OPTIONAL – Press a ½ inch memory hem on one of the short edges towards the wrong side.
TIP – To make the memory hem/s easier to work with the memory hems in step 2.20, press fusible tape onto the ½ inch memory hem.
2.4Fold the Bottom Placket in half long ways, wrong sides together. Press.
Open the fold, then fold each long edge ⅜ inch towards the wrong side, creating a memory hem. Press.
Fold in half again, wrong sides together with the memory hems folded in. Press.
TIP – With Fusible Tape, press the memory hems down to make them easier to work with.
2.5Open the Top Placket so it lays flat. Align the edge of the memory hem from step 2.3 to the pattern markings with the wrong side of Top Placket to the right side of shirt. Pin.
NOTE – We are showing how to attach the Top Placket on the wearer’s left side, which is traditionally how men wear it. If you would prefer it on the right, mirror the instructions to attach it to the right.
2.7Repeat step 2.5 to 2.6 to baste the Bottom Placket to the opposite side of the pattern markings.
NOTE – The Placket cut line will not reach the center fold of the Bottom Placket pieces – it will only reach approximately halfway across between the edge of the placket and the center fold.
2.8Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin. Press.
2.9Find and mark the quarter points for both the shirt and the neckband.
Right sides together, match the center back of the Shirt with the center of the Neckband, then match the quarter points.
Overlap the Neckband approximately 1 inch over the Top Placket. Pin. Repeat at the other end of the Neckband for the Bottom Placket.
2.10Fold the Top Placket in half, right sides together. Refold the memory hem. Pin.
NOTE – The Neckband will be sandwiched within the folded Top Placket.
2.11Repeat step 2.10 for the Bottom Placket.
2.14Align the underside of the Bottom Placket’s memory hem with the pattern markings, wrong sides together with the shirt.
Repeat, matching the wrong side of the top side of the Bottom Placket’s memory hem edge to the pattern markings on the right side of the shirt. The Bottom Placket will now be wrong sides together with the shirt sandwiched in between.
Pin in place.
NOTE – The ends of the Bottom Placket will be longer than the Placket Cut Line.
TIP – Before pinning in place, with Fusible Tape, press the Placket to Shirt Front that is sandwiched between the top side and underside of the Bottom Placket to make it easier to work with.
2.15Repeat step 2.14 for the Top Placket.
TIP – If you created the ½ inch memory hem in step 2.3 with fusible tape, press the Top Placket to the Front where it is sandwiched between the top side and underside of the Top Placket.
2.16Overlap the Top Placket over the Bottom Placket.
NOTE – Do not pin the Top and Bottom Plackets together. This placement is for topstitching only.
2.19Turn the Shirt inside out.
Serge or stitch the bottom edge of the Bottom Placket to finish the raw edge.
NOTE – Be careful not to stitch the bottom edge of the Bottom Placket to the Shirt.
OPTIONAL – After finishing the raw edge of the Placket, use iron-on fusible tape to fuse the Placket to the Shirt ONLY. This will keep the Placket in place and make it easier to work with.
Skip to step 2.21 if you pressed a memory hem and fused it with fusible webbing on the short edge of the Top Placket in step 2.3. Otherwise, continue below.
2.20Turn the Shirt right sides out.
Open the bottom unstitched portion of the Top Placket. Fold the bottom raw edge up toward the wrong side ½ inch. Press.
Fold the Top Placket in half once again matching the wrong sides. in.
TIP – To make it easier to keep the Placket aligned during the next few steps, using an iron-on fusible tape in the bottom of the Placket will keep the Placket aligned.
2.21Overlap the Top Placket over the Bottom Placket. Pin the bottom folded edge of the Top Placket in place.
TIP – If you have buckling at the horizontal cut line once the Plackets are overlapped, snip approximately 1 millimeter to prevent the buckling and allow the fabric to lay flat.
TIP – Use iron-on fusible tape to fuse the Placket to ONLY the Shirt to keep it in place and make it easier to work with. Do not fuse the Top Placket to the Bottom Placket.
NOTE – You are pinning through all layers of the Plackets and Shirt to secure all layers together.
2.22Stitch a 1.5 inch by 1 inch rectangle on the bottom folded edge of the Top Placket.
NOTE – Check that the Top and Bottom Plackets are aligned correctly as the stitching go through both.
2.23Sew buttonholes on the Front, using the markings you previously transferred. Or add snaps to the pattern markings.
NOTE – If you are sewing your Shirt for a Man/Boy, buttonholes are usually on the left side (with buttons the right). If you are sewing for a Lady/Girl, the buttonholes will be on the right side (with buttons on the left).
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.
2.24Lay the Plackets together to mark the placement of the buttons. Use a fabric marker or pin to go through the opening of the hole and, mark placements on the Bottom Placket.
Stitch the buttons onto the Bottom Placket.
3 . Sleeves3.0This step is the same for either Sleeve length.
3.1Fold the Sleeve in half and mark the midpoint with a pin.
3.2With the right sides together, match the pin at the midpoint of the Sleeve with the midpoint of the armscye, and pin together.
Pin the ends of the Sleeve to the ends of the armscye.
NOTE – The midpoint of the armscye is not the shoulder seam. The shoulder seam is meant to be slightly dropped to the front of the shirt.
3.3Continue pinning the Sleeve to the armscye.
3.6Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the other Sleeve.
4 . Memory Hem4.1Fold the bottom of the Sleeve to the wrong side ½ inch and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the hem later when the Sleeve is stitched into a circle. Some fabrics hold a memory hem better than others. If your fabric doesn’t hold it well, that is ok. It is still helpful to do this now.
4.2Repeat step 4.1 for the other Sleeve, as well as the hem of the Front and Back.
5 . Side Seams5.1With the right sides together, pin the Front to the Back of the shirt along the Sleeves and down the side seams.
5.3Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 for the other side seam.
6 . Hem6.1Refold the Front and Back memory hem from steps 4.1 to 4.2 and pin it in place.
Stitch along the hem, close to the raw edge, using a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – You can use a twin needle or coverstitch for hemming.
6.2Repeat step 6.1 for both Sleeves.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Houston Henley is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rphoustonhenley.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewHouston Henley
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Houston Henley is a classic yet stylish everyday top, with optional short or long sleeves. It is slim fit through the body, with slightly dropped shoulders. The crew neck is created with a fold over neckband and finished with a wide front placket. And finally, the curved hem gives the Henley a beautiful finish.
SizingSize Range
Mens XXS - 4XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Men’s Size Chart
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
cm
Inches
cm
Inches
cm
XXS
32
81
27
68.5
33
84
XS
33
84
28
71
33
84
S
35
89
29
74
35
89
M
39
99
32
81
38
96.5
L
43
109
35
89
41
104
XL
47
119
38
96.5
43
109
XXL
51
129.5
43
109
46
117
3XL
55
140
48
122
48
122
4XL
59
150
52
132
50
127
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Bicep
Length
Circumference
Center Back to Hem
Long Sleeve
Short Sleeve
Hem
Long Sleeve Hem
Short Sleeve Hem
XXS
33.4
10.7
27
24
8.3
36.2
8.7
11.2
XS
34.4
11.4
27.2
24.2
8.3
36.2
9
12
S
36.6
12.2
27.5
24.4
8.5
38.3
9.1
12.5
M
40.4
13
28
24.6
8.6
41.2
9.5
13.2
L
44.4
13.7
28.3
25
9
44.2
10
14.1
XL
48.4
14.7
29
25
9.1
46.2
10.3
15
XXL
52.4
15.5
29.5
25.2
9.2
49.2
11.1
16
3XL
56.4
16.5
30.1
25.4
9.4
51.2
11.2
16.7
4XL
60.4
17.3
30.7
25.6
9.6
53.3
11.6
17.6
Materials and Tools- Your fabric needs to be a 2-way stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, the best results and fit will be achieved by using a light or medium weight fabric such as cotton jersey, cotton lycra, cotton rib, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your shirt maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and doesn’t become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Short Sleeve
Long Sleeve
XXS
1
1.25
XS
1
1.25
M
1
1.75
L
1.25
2
XL
1.25
2
XXL
1.25
2
3XL
1.5
2
4XL
1.75
2
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 3x ½ inch wide Buttons/Snaps
- Mid-Weight Knit Woven Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Iron-on Fusible Tape – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear Elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.