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Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Open Back Blouse
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Add extra wow factor to your sewing with this beautiful open back top! The elegant Open Back Blouse features billowy sleeves with a deep cuff, a dramatic waist tie, optional bodice support, and a high-neck collar or V-neck. Includes sizes XXS-5XL
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – If you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or into the correct waist and hips size.
- Bust adjustment – This blouse is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup)
- If your bust size is below a C cup, you don’t necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, do check at the shoulder assembly stage that the chest area fits well.
- If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment).
- V Neck OPTION: Follow our free FBA tutorial
- High Neck OPTION: Follow our free FBA tutorial
- Height adjustment – The blouse is drafted for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you may wish to adjust throughout the whole garment. Shorten/lengthen halfway through armscye, at the waist and at the hem.
- Sleeve fit –
- Length – Measure from the top of your shoulder to your wrist with your arm slightly bent. Add/remove length at the bottom of the Sleeve before it meets the Cuff.
- Cuff width – Measure 7 inches up from your wrist. Measure around your arm at this point. Check this measurement against the finished measurement for the width of Cuff. You can add/remove the difference across the top edge of the cuff, bringing in/adding more to the sides of the Cuff.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this blouse:
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the Front, Back, 1x Sleeve, and Cuff. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
- Baste these together using a 1⁄2 inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- If you find the blouse is falling off your shoulders, add a spaghetti strap from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, tying at the center back.
- Trim your new seam allowances to 1⁄2 inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- A light weight woven such as a chiffon, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking.
- A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, silk, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine, taffeta or silk satin will drape.
- The optional interlining is a layer of fabric which goes between the V Neck Main and Lining. You can’t see it from the outside or inside of the finished garment. It is completely hidden.
- The purpose of the bodice support (interlining) layer is to provide support to the bust. It’s fast and easy to sew, while also providing a great structure.
- Our favorite fabric for this is Coutil as it gives structure, while also being breathable. It molds to the body giving excellent support.
- Alternatively, you could use a medium weight woven with a little give. It needs to be able to ease slightly as you breathe and move in the garment, while also holding the bodice firm against your skin. Twill, Gabardine Drill, or other similar weight fabrics are a great alternative.
- You can use Interfacing as an alternative to Interlining.
- You won’t need any Interlining if you are only sewing the High Neck option.
- Shank buttons (maximum 1cm / ½ inch wide) x12
- Lightweight iron-on interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes.
- Bias tape – You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. 1 yard will be sufficient for the Sleeve for all sizes. You can use bias tape to create rouleau loops for the Sleeve Cuff. You will need an additional 1 yard.
- Thread to match
- Front Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Back Waistband – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2, Lining cut 2, Interfacing cut 2
- Rouleau Loops – Fabric cut 2
- Tie – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair),
- Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Collar – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Center Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1 on fold
- Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- High Neck: Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- High Neck: Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- V Neck: Center Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1 on fold
- V Neck: Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- V Neck: Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
Project OverviewOpen Back Blouse
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This beautifully elegant blouson blouse can be made with an inner bodice support, without or just the inner bodice. The outer bodice option has a collar finished with rouleau loops and buttons, with the blouson bodice gathering into the waistband. The inner bodice as a deep v-neck at the front and is fitted around the bust and into the waistband. The sleeves are soft and billowy, finished with a deep vintage inspired cuff, also with rouleau loops and buttons. The open back is finished with a tie at the waist.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Sleeve length
Cuff width
Cuff depth
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
31.0
23.0
18.2
10.0
7.5
10.7
13.5
XS
33.0
26.0
18.3
10.1
7.5
11.0
13.7
S
35.0
27.0
18.5
10.3
7.5
11.0
14.0
M
37.0
29.0
18.7
10.7
7.5
11.1
14.2
L
39.0
31.0
19.0
11.1
7.5
11.2
14.3
XL
42.0
34.0
19.1
11.5
7.5
11.3
14.5
XXL
45.0
37.0
19.3
12.1
7.5
12.1
15.5
3XL
48.0
41.0
19.5
12.3
7.5
12.2
15.7
4XL
51.0
45.0
19.7
12.7
7.5
12.3
16.0
5XL
54.0
49.0
20.0
13.1
7.5
12.5
16.1
Fitting NotesThis blouse has an optional fitted v neck bodice with princess seams, and an optional loose fitting high neck bodice, which is gathered into the top of the waistband. The hem sits at the top hip.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this blouse. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind:
Lining fabric – It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. You won’t need any Lining if you are only sewing the High Neck option.
OPTIONAL Interlining
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
High neck bodice OPTION
V neck bodice OPTION
High neck with V neck bodice OPTION
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
XXS – M
2.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
2.25
0.50
0.50
L
2.50
1.50
0.50
0.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
XL
2.50
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
2.75
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.75
0.50
0.50
3XL
2.75
1.75
0.75
0.75
2.75
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
3.00
2.00
0.75
0.75
3.00
0.75
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
High neck bodice OPTION
V neck bodice OPTION
High neck with V neck bodice OPTION
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
XXS – M
1.75
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.75
0.50
0.50
L – XXL
2.00
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.50
0.50
3XL
2.00
2.00
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.50
0.50
4XL – 5XL
2.25
2.00
0.50
0.50
2.25
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pattern pieces
XXS – 5XL 2-27 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pattern pieces
XXS – S 2-24, 26-27 M – 5XL 2-27 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Rouleau loops
(Cut 2)½ inch wide Bias binding (Cut 2)
Width
Length
Length
XXS
0.75
22.5
16.00
XS
0.75
22.5
17.00
S
0.75
22.5
18.00
M
0.75
22.5
19.00
L
0.75
22.5
20.00
XL
0.75
22.5
21.00
XXL
0.75
22.5
22.00
3XL
0.75
22.5
23.00
4XL
0.75
22.5
24.00
5XL
0.75
22.5
25.00
Cutting Checklist:
ALL OPTIONS:
Bodice options: select one
HIGH NECK BODICE ONLY
V NECK LINED BODICE ONLY
HIGH NECK WITH FITTED V NECK BODICE
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Apply iron-on interfacing to Collar, Cuff, Front and Back Waistbands.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the necklines.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
- OPTIONAL BODICE INTERLINING – Place Side Front Lining and Side Front Interlining wrong sides together, pin and baste. Repeat for the Center Front Lining and Interlining pieces.
- ROULEAU LOOPS – Fold the Rouleau Loop in half lengthwise right sides together, pin. Stitch, then trim the seam allowance. Turn right sides out and press. Cut every 2.25 inches until there are 12 pieces.
- HIGH NECK OPTION: SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch the Shoulder seams together with French seams.
- HIGH NECK OPTION: SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams with French seams.
- HIGH NECK OPTION: BACK SEAM – Lay the Back wrong side up, fold the center back edge to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press. Fold another ¼ inch. Press then topstitch. Repeat on the other center back seam.
- HIGH NECK OPTION: COLLAR – Skip to step 6 if sewing the V Neck OPTION. Lay Main Collar right sides up. Find the center of the Main Collar at one short edge. Fold a Rouleau Loop in half, place onto Main Collar at the center. Pin. Fold the second Rouleau Loop and place ¾ inch from first. Pin and baste. Fold one long edge of Collar to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Find and mark center of Bodice and Collar. Match Bodice and Collar at centers right sides together. Pin. Match Bodice neckline to the Collar. Pin then Stitch. Press. Fold Collar in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin. Stitch short edges. Clip corners. Turn Collar right sides out. Place memory hem over seam allowance. Pin. Stitch in Ditch on the right side of the Collar. Sew buttons on.
- V NECK OPTION: BODICE – If sewing High Neck OPTION, skip to step 7. Place Main Center Front and Main Side Front right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Clip the curve. Repeat to attach the second Main Side Front to the other side of the Main Center Front. Press seams open. Place Main Front onto Main Back right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press seams open. Repeat entire step to create Bodice Lining. Place the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together. Pin along the neckline. Stitch. Clip into the V. Turn Bodice right sides out. Press. Match the Main Fronts and Main Backs side seams right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat for the Front and Back Lining pieces. Turn Bodice right sides out. Match armscyes and hem of Main and Lining. Pin. Baste armscye and hem.
- SLEEVE – Stitch the Sleeve underarm using a French seam. Stitch gathering stitches between the pattern markings on the armscye. HIGH NECK BODICE ONLY: attach to the High Neck Bodice only. HIGH NECK BODICE ONLY: attach to the V Neck Bodice only. HIGH NECK BODICE WITH V NECK BODICE: attach the Sleeve to the Outer and Inner Bodice as one piece. Find and mark the center of the Sleeve and armscye. Match armscye and centers. Pin. Gather the Sleeve. Pin. Use Hong Kong Binding method to bind the armscyes. Stitch gathering stitches around bottom edges of the Sleeve.
- CUFFS – Place Loops onto Main Cuff. Baste. Fold and press top edge of Cuff Lining ½ down. Pin and sew Cuffs together from markings. Clip corners. Turn out and press. Turn back and fold top of cuff down at markings. Fold bottom cuff piece in half width ways and stitch together till marking. Turn out and repeat to sew other side. Insert cuff over sleeve and gather sleeve to fit into cuff. Stitch. Turn out, fold the Cuff Lining over the seam allowance and hand stitch the cuff to the sleeve. Sew buttons to the sleeve. Repeat for second sleeve.
- TIES AND WAISTBAND – Place Main and Tie Lining right sides together. Pin, leave short straight edge open. Stitch. Clip corners. Turn out. Press. Repeat on other Main and Lining. Place Main Front Waistband and Main Back Waistband right sides together on both sides, match short edges. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat with the Lining. Place Main and Lining Waistbands right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Fold Waistband Lining top edge to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. Place a Tie onto the Waistband, main sides together. Match straight edges. Fold Waistband Lining up. Pin. Stitch. Clip the corners. Repeat on other side of the Waistband. HIGH NECK OPTION: stitch gathering stitches around bottom hem. HIGH NECK OPTIONS: Find center of Waistband and Bodice. Match centers and side seams. Gather Bodice so it matches Waistband. HIGH NECK WITH V NECK: Place Main V Neck Bodice onto wrong side of High Neck Bodice. Pin. V NECK ONLY: Place Main Bodice onto the Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin. Stitch all options. Lay Bodice wrong sides up. Flip Waistband Lining up covering seam allowance. Pin. Stitch in the ditch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to the Collar, Cuff and if adding to the Front and Back Waistbands.
NOTE – If you are using sheer fabric you may wish to use the interfaced Cuffs on the outside of the blouse, as this will hide your stitching and seam allowances.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the neckline is likely to stretch during construction and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the neckline in the directions of the arrow starting at the center and stitching out.
0.4OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold to bind the Sleeve and if you would like to use it for the Rouleau Loops.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
0.5OPTIONAL Bodice Interlining
If you aren’t adding interlining to the V Neck Bodice, skip to step 1. Or follow below to add interlining.
Interlining is a sturdy fabric that is constructed of compactly woven herringbone twill. It is used to provide structure and support in garments such as ball gowns and corsets.
Place the Side Front Lining and the Side Front Interlining, wrong sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The image is a slightly different shape, but the process is the same.
Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
Repeat for the Center Front Lining and Interlining pieces.
1 . Rouleau Loops1.0This step is the same for all Bodice OPTIONS. You will be sewing the rouleau loops for the Sleeve Cuff and back of the Collar. If you are using bias binding, skip to step 1.5.
1.1Take the Rouleau Loop and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance.
1.4Turn right side out and press.
There are several ways to turn the loop right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.
METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
1.5Cut the Rouleau Loop (or bias binding) every 2.25 inches until you have 12 pieces. You will need 5 pieces per Cuff and 2 for the Collar.
The finished size of each Rouleau Loop should be ¼ inch wide by 2.25 inches long.
2 . High Neck OPTION: Shoulder Seams2.0If you are only sewing the V Neck OPTION, skip to step 6. If you are sewing the High Neck or the High Neck with support, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Front on top of the Back, right sides together. Pin at the shoulder seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, then serge the ½ inch seam allowance. Stitching before serging adds strength to the shoulders which are a high-stress area of the garment. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the Front and Back Bodice together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.
2.1Lay the Front on top of the Back, wrong sides together (right sides out). Pin at the shoulder seam.
2.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
2.4Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
2.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Open the bodice flat, wrong sides facing up and press the seam allowance towards the back.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the other shoulder seam.
3 . High Neck OPTION: Side Seams3.0If you are only sewing the V Neck OPTION, skip to step 6. If you are sewing the High Neck or the High Neck with support, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back right sides together at the side seam. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Again we are going to sew French seams, following the same steps we did in step 2.
3.1Stitch the side seams of the Front and Back together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.5.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
3.2Repeat step 3.1 for the other side seam.
4 . High Neck OPTION: Back Seam4.0If you are only sewing the V Neck OPTION, skip to step 6. If you are sewing the High Neck or the High Neck with support, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the center back edge without taking anything off. Then follow step 4.1.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Lay the Back wrong sides facing up. Fold the center back edge over by ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
4.2Fold another ¼ inch. Press.
4.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 on the other center back seam.
5 . High Neck OPTION: Collar5.0If you are only sewing the V Neck OPTION, skip to step 6. If you are sewing the High Neck or the High Neck with support, follow below.
5.1Lay the Main Collar right sides facing up. Find the center of the Main Collar at one short edge.
Fold a Rouleau Loop (sewn in step 1) approximately in half. Place it onto the Main Collar, right sides together, at the center, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Make sure the seams of the Loop touch and are laying side by side.
Place the second Rouleau Loop ¾ of an inch away from the first one. Pin.
5.2Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
5.3Fold one long edge over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Collar. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Collar hem later when it is stitched to the Bodice.
5.4Find and mark the center of the Bodice and Collar. Place the Bodice onto the Collar, right sides together, matching centers and raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the unfolded edge.
5.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.6Press the seam allowance up.
5.7Fold the Collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin.
NOTE – Check that your memory hem is still in place.
5.8Stitch both sides using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.9Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
5.10Turn the Collar right side out, pushing out the corners. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
5.11Place the memory hem edge of the Collar over the seam allowance on the wrong side of the Bodice. Pin.
5.12Turn the Bodice over and pin the Collar from the right side.
You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Collar. This creates a neat and pretty finish.
5.13Place your buttons onto the Collar on the opposite side of the loops. Sew the buttons in place.
6 . V Neck OPTION: Bodice6.0If you are only sewing the High Neck OPTION, skip to step 7. If you are sewing the V Neck or the High Neck with support, follow below.
6.1Place the Main Center Front and the Main Side Front, right sides together. Pin at the bottom of the curve, at the apex and the top edge.
Ease along the curve and pin in place.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2, attaching the second Main Side Front to the other side of the Main Center Front.
6.3Press the seam allowances open.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailors ham is a tightly stuffed cushion that is used to press curved seams. If you don’t have one you can improvise with a tightly rolled-up towel in a tea towel or pillowcase.
NOTE – This will now be called the Main Front.
6.4Place the Main Front onto the Main Back, right sides together. Pin along the shoulder seam.
NOTE – Check that you are matching the correct mirror image Back to the correct side of the Front.
6.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Trim the seam allowance on either side of the shoulder seam to help reduce bulk.
6.6Press the seam allowances open.
6.7Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.6 with the Center Front, Side Front and Back Lining pieces.
NOTE – This will now be called the Bodice Lining.
6.8Place the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together. Pin along the neckline only.
6.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip into the V, being careful not to cut stitch lines.
6.10Turn the Bodice right side out and press.
6.11Take the Main Front and place it onto the Main Back, right sides together, matching side seams. Pin.
6.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance
Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 6.11 to 6.12 on the other side.
6.13Repeat steps 6.11 to 6.12 with the Front and Back Lining pieces.
6.14Turn the Bodice right side out.
Match the armscyes and the hem of the Main and Lining together. Pin.
6.15Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7 . Sleeve7.0This step is the same for all Bodice OPTIONS.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Sleeve underarm with the right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 7.2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Again we are going to sew French seams, following the same steps we did in step 2.
7.1Stitch the Sleeve underarm seam together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.5.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
7.2Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings on the armscye.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!
7.3HIGH NECK BODICE ONLY: You will be attaching the Sleeve to the High Neck Bodice only.
V NECK BODICE ONLY: You will be attaching the Sleeve to the V Neck Bodice only.
HIGH NECK WITH V NECK BODICE: You will be attaching the Sleeve to the Outer and Inner Bodice as one piece. Place the Inner Bodice onto the Outer Bodice, with the lining right sides facing up. Match the armscyes. Baste the armscyes together.
Find and mark the center of the Sleeve and the armscye. Insert the Sleeve into the Bodice, right sides together, matching the side seams and centers. Pin.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads of the Sleeve to gather, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.
7.4You will be using the Hong Kong method to bind this seam. This method uses bias tape to enclose the raw edges of the seam. You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Sleeve.
This creates a neat and pretty finish. Don’t worry if you haven’t done this method before, just follow along below. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Turn the Sleeve so the wrong side is on the outside. Place the bias binding onto the raw edge of the Sleeve seam, right sides together, leaving a 1-inch tail on either side.
7.5Carefully pinch the bias binding as close to the seam allowance as possible, taking care not to catch the fabric of the Sleeve. Place a pin at the base of the pinched section.
Continue to pin around the seam allowance.
7.6Pull the ends of bias binding away from the Sleeve fabric, taking care not to catch the fabric.
Stitch the two pieces of bias binding together.
Trim the excess fabric and press the seam allowance.
7.7Stitch around the Sleeve seam allowance using ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.8Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance, be sure to cover the stitching from step 6.7. Pin.
‘Stitch in the ditch’, or stitch from the Sleeve side of the seam directly in the seam so the visible stitches are kept at a minimum.
7.9Trim the raw edge of the bias binding, as close to the stitching as you can, without cutting into the seam.
Press the seam up toward the shoulder seam.
7.10Stitch two rows of gathering stitches all around the bottom edge of the Sleeve.
NOTE – Do not gather the stitches yet, you will do that in step 8.13.
7.11Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.10 for the other Sleeve
8 . Cuffs8.0This step is the same for all Bodice OPTIONS.
8.1Take the five Loops you made in step 1 and fold them in half. You will be adding your Loops to the interfaced Main Cuff.
NOTE – If you are using a sheer fabric you may want to use the interfaced Main Cuff on the opposite side to hide your stitches. You will then need to attach the Loops to the non-interfaced Main Cuff instead.
Lay the Main Cuff right side facing up. Starting 1 inch from the bottom of the Main Cuff, matching the raw edges, place your first Loop. Pin. Space the Loops apart up to the pattern marking, keeping an even space in between each one. Pin.
NOTE – Check the Loops aren’t sitting above the marking.
This will be your inner Main Cuff.
8.2Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The Loops will be on the opposite side (mirrored) on the second Cuff.
8.3Fold the top edge of the matching Cuff Lining over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press to create a memory hem.
8.4Place the Cuff Lining onto the interfaced Main Cuff (with Loops), right sides together. Pin from the pattern marking on one side, along the bottom and back up to the other pattern marking. Pin.
8.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.6Clip the bottom corners to reduce bulk.
8.7Turn the Cuff right side out. Press.
8.8Turn the Cuff inside out. Fold the Main Cuff at the end of the stitched seam from step 7.5.
Open the memory hem on the Cuff Lining. Fold the Cuff Lining in half from the stitched seam, right sides together. Pin.
8.9Stitch the Cuff Lining from the raw edge to the stitched line from step 7.5, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.10Repeat steps 7.8 to 7.9, stitching the Main Cuff.
NOTE – Make sure that the Cuff Lining is folded down and out of the way.
8.11The Loops on the Cuff will be on the inside of the Sleeve. You will need to match your Cuff seam above the Loops to the Sleeve side seam.
OPTIONAL: If you would prefer a real vintage look, you can have your Loops on the outside of your Cuff. To do this, match the opposite side of the Cuff seam to the Sleeve sides seam. Check that you have the correct Cuff on the correct Sleeve.
Find and mark the quarter points of the Sleeve.
TIP – Use a different color pin to mark where you plan to put the Loops.
Fold the Cuff Lining down and out of the way. Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff.
TIP – Place the same color pin that you used on the Sleeve to mark the seam where the Loops are.
8.12You will be inserting the Sleeve into the Cuff. With the sewn end of the Cuff facing into the Sleeve, place the Sleeve inside the Cuff, right sides together, matching raw edges. Match up the quarter points and pin the Cuff to the Sleeve.
TIP – Make sure to line up the matching pins where the Loops should be.
8.13Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the Sleeve until the quarter points match up.
Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers.
8.14Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove the gathering stitches.
8.15Turn the Sleeve inside out.
Fold the unstitched edge of the Cuff Lining over the seam allowance from step 7.14, enclosing the seam allowance. Pin.
8.16Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Cuff Lining to the Sleeve. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.
Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through the Cuff Lining just inside the seam allowance. Pull the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the folded edge of the Cuff Lining, to create a stitch that is about ⅛ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.
To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.
8.17Try the blouse on to determine where you would like your buttons to sit. Sew the buttons to the Cuff.
TIP – You can tighten or loosen the Cuff by moving your buttons closer or further away from the edge.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.17 for the other Sleeve. Remember to attach the Loops to the opposite side (mirror Cuff) in step 8.1.
9 . Ties and Waistband9.0This step is the same for all Bodice OPTIONS.
9.1Place Main Tie and Tie Lining pieces right sides together. Pin all the way around leaving the straight short edge open.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance
9.3Clip corners to reduce bulk.
9.4Turn right side out. Press.
9.5Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.4 for the other Main and Lining Tie.
9.6Place the Main Front Waistband and Main Back Waistband, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin.
9.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
9.8Repeat steps 9.6 to 9.7 for the other side.
9.9Repeat steps 9.6 to 9.8 with the Front and Back Lining Waistband pieces.
9.10Place the Main and Lining Waistbands, right sides together, matching the bottom edge. Pin.
9.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.12Press the seam.
9.13Fold the Waistband Lining top edge over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Press to create a memory hem.
9.14Place a Tie onto the Main Waistband, right sides together, matching straight edges. Fold the Waistband Lining over, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – You are sandwiching the Ties in between the Main and Lining.
NOTE – Check that the shorter of the long edges on the Tie is facing up and the top edges are matching.
9.15Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
9.16Repeat steps 9.14 to 9.15 attaching the second Tie to the other side of the Waistband.
Turn right side out. Press.
9.17HIGH NECK OPTION: Stitch two rows of gathering stitches all around the bottom hem of the Bodice.
9.18HIGH NECK OPTIONS: Find the center of the Waistband and the Bodice. Place the Bodice onto the Main Waistband, right sides together, matching centers, and side seams. Pin.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Bodice.
Gather all the way across until the Bodice is the same length as the Waistband. Gently spread out the Bodice so that it is evenly gathered.
HIGH NECK WITH V NECK: Place the Main V Neck Bodice onto the wrong side of the High Neck Bodice. Pin.
V NECK ONLY: Place the Main Bodice onto the Main Waistband, right sides together. Pin.
9.19Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up.
9.20Lay the Bodice wrong side facing up. Flip the Waistband Lining up, covering the seam allowance with the memory hem. Pin.
9.21You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from step 9.19. This creates a neat and pretty finish.
Your Open Back Blouse is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Open Back Blouse is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpopenbackblouse.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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Makers Gallery
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewOpen Back Blouse
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This beautifully elegant blouson blouse can be made with an inner bodice support, without or just the inner bodice. The outer bodice option has a collar finished with rouleau loops and buttons, with the blouson bodice gathering into the waistband. The inner bodice as a deep v-neck at the front and is fitted around the bust and into the waistband. The sleeves are soft and billowy, finished with a deep vintage inspired cuff, also with rouleau loops and buttons. The open back is finished with a tie at the waist.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Sleeve length
Cuff width
Cuff depth
Center front length
Center back length
XXS
31.0
23.0
18.2
10.0
7.5
10.7
13.5
XS
33.0
26.0
18.3
10.1
7.5
11.0
13.7
S
35.0
27.0
18.5
10.3
7.5
11.0
14.0
M
37.0
29.0
18.7
10.7
7.5
11.1
14.2
L
39.0
31.0
19.0
11.1
7.5
11.2
14.3
XL
42.0
34.0
19.1
11.5
7.5
11.3
14.5
XXL
45.0
37.0
19.3
12.1
7.5
12.1
15.5
3XL
48.0
41.0
19.5
12.3
7.5
12.2
15.7
4XL
51.0
45.0
19.7
12.7
7.5
12.3
16.0
5XL
54.0
49.0
20.0
13.1
7.5
12.5
16.1
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this blouse. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind:
- A light weight woven such as a chiffon, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking.
- A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, silk, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine, taffeta or silk satin will drape.
Lining fabric – It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. You won’t need any Lining if you are only sewing the High Neck option.
OPTIONAL Interlining
- The optional interlining is a layer of fabric which goes between the V Neck Main and Lining. You can’t see it from the outside or inside of the finished garment. It is completely hidden.
- The purpose of the bodice support (interlining) layer is to provide support to the bust. It’s fast and easy to sew, while also providing a great structure.
- Our favorite fabric for this is Coutil as it gives structure, while also being breathable. It molds to the body giving excellent support.
- Alternatively, you could use a medium weight woven with a little give. It needs to be able to ease slightly as you breathe and move in the garment, while also holding the bodice firm against your skin. Twill, Gabardine Drill, or other similar weight fabrics are a great alternative.
- You can use Interfacing as an alternative to Interlining.
- You won’t need any Interlining if you are only sewing the High Neck option.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
High neck bodice OPTION
V neck bodice OPTION
High neck with V neck bodice OPTION
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
XXS – M
2.25
1.50
0.50
0.50
2.25
0.50
0.50
L
2.50
1.50
0.50
0.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
XL
2.50
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
2.75
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.75
0.50
0.50
3XL
2.75
1.75
0.75
0.75
2.75
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
3.00
2.00
0.75
0.75
3.00
0.75
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
High neck bodice OPTION
V neck bodice OPTION
High neck with V neck bodice OPTION
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Interlining
XXS – M
1.75
1.50
0.50
0.50
1.75
0.50
0.50
L – XXL
2.00
1.75
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.50
0.50
3XL
2.00
2.00
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.50
0.50
4XL – 5XL
2.25
2.00
0.50
0.50
2.25
0.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Shank buttons (maximum 1cm / ½ inch wide) x12
- Lightweight iron-on interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes.
- Bias tape – You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. 1 yard will be sufficient for the Sleeve for all sizes. You can use bias tape to create rouleau loops for the Sleeve Cuff. You will need an additional 1 yard.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.