Pants Adjustment Tutorial

Height Adjustments

When adjusting patterns for your body, it’s very important to remember to apply the ‘ABC’s’. In terms of patterns that means Length and Width. Length comes alphabetically before Width, so always make any length/height adjustments before making width adjustments to the patterns.

If you are adjusting a child’s pattern, follow step 1. For an adult pattern follow steps 2 to 5.

If a child measures a size 5 – 6 width, but a size 7 – 8 height, you’ll need to do the following:

• Print both sizes
• LENGTH – Use the 5 – 6 lines for the width.
• LENGTH – For the length, extend to the 7 – 8 size for the length. 
• Don’t forget to do the same for all the other pattern pieces.
• Cut these new sized pattern pieces

Check where the pants are intended to sit – this will indicate if a height adjustment at the Front and Back Rise might be needed. Also check the ‘Pattern Adjustments’ chart for the difference between your measurements and the finished measurements.

On the Front Leg pattern piece. Measure halfway down the rise. Draw a straight line across the width of the pattern. Cut along the line creating two separate pieces. 

To REMOVE LENGTH, follow steps 2.2 to 2.6.

To ADD LENGTH, follow steps 2.7 to 2.12.

REMOVE LENGTH: On the lower leg piece, using a ruler, measure from the cut line down, the amount that needs to be removed from the Front Rise. Draw a line all the way across the width of the pattern at the amount to be removed has just been measured.

Align the upper Front Leg piece to the line drawn in step 2.2 on the lower Front leg piece. 

Tape or glue the two pieces together. 

Using your French Curve Ruler, re-blend the Front Rise and the Hip Curve.

TIP – If you don’t have a French Curve Ruler, blending the Front Rise and the Hip Curve can be done by hand by just smoothing out the curve as best as you can.

At this point you can either leave the Front Leg pattern piece the way it is, or you can retrace it onto the tracing paper.

If you choose to trace it, lay the pattern piece on top of the tracing paper and place pattern weights on top of the pattern so it won’t move. Trace around your new Front Leg pattern piece. 

Cut out the new pattern piece, label it and set aside. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the Back Leg pattern piece.

ADD LENGTH: Place the cut Front Leg pattern pieces onto the tracing paper.

Tape or glue the upper Leg piece onto the tracing paper.  

Using the clear ruler, starting at the base of the upper Leg piece, measure the amount that needs added to the Front Rise and draw a line so the amount added to the rise will be equal.

Align the top of the lower Leg piece with the line drawn in measure 1.8. 

Tape or glue the lower Leg piece down.

Using your French Curve Ruler, re-blend the Front Rise and the Hip Curve.

TIP – If you don’t have the correct ruler, blending the Front Rise and the Hip Curve can be done by hand by just smoothing out the curve as best as you can.

At this point you can either leave the Front Leg pattern piece the way it is, or you can retrace it onto the tracing paper.

If you choose to trace it, lay the pattern piece on top of the tracing paper and place pattern weights on top of the pattern so it won’t move. Trace around your new Back Leg pattern piece. 

Cut out the new pattern piece, label it and set aside. 

Repeat step 2.1, then 2.7 to 2.11 for the Back Leg pattern piece.

True the seams.

Check the pattern for how long the pants are intended to be. This will help you decide if you need to make a height adjustment to the Inseam. Also check the ‘Pattern Adjustments Chart’ for the difference between your measurements and the finished measurements so you know how much you need to add to or take away from the pattern pieces.

On the Front Leg pattern piece, measure halfway down the inseam. Draw a straight line across the width of the pattern. Cut along the line creating two separate pieces. 

TIP – If you are adding or taking away a lot of the pattern, it is a good idea to divide the amount between two different spots along the inseam. Typically, in order to keep the proportions of the inseam correct, add/subtract between the hip and knee and the second spot should be between the knee and ankle. You could also measure the pattern piece, so you’ll have the proportions equal to your legs.

To REMOVE LENGTH, follow steps 3.2 to 3.6.

To ADD LENGTH, follow steps 3.7 to 3.12

NOTE – On a pant that is straight from the knee to the ankle, length can be added/taken away at the hem. This will only work for a straight leg pant. 

REMOVE LENGTH: On the Lower Leg piece, using a ruler, measure from the cut line down the amount that needs to be removed from the Inseam. Draw a line all the way across the width of the pattern at the amount to be removed has just been measured.

Align the upper Front Leg piece to the line you just drew on the lower Front leg piece. 

Tape or glue the two pieces together. 

Repeat for the second line if you divided the amount you are taking out of the pattern in half.

True up the seam lines.

TIP – If you don’t have the correct rulers, blending the Front Rise and the Hip Curve can be done by hand by just smoothing out the curve as best as you can.

At this point you can either leave the Front Leg pattern piece the way it is, or you can retrace it onto the tracing paper.

If you choose to trace it, lay the pattern piece on top of the tracing paper and place pattern weights on top of the pattern so it won’t move. Trace around your new Front Leg pattern piece. 

Cut out the new pattern piece, label it and set aside. 

Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.5 for the Back Leg pattern piece.

ADD LENGTH: Place the cut Front Leg pattern pieces onto the tracing paper.

Tape or glue the Upper Leg piece onto the tracing paper.  

Using the clear ruler, starting at the base of the upper Leg piece, measure the amount that needs added to the Front Rise and draw a line so the amount added to the rise will be equal all the way across the pattern piece. 

Align the top of the Lower Leg piece with the line drawn in measure 3.8. 

Tape or glue the lower Leg piece down.

Repeat for the second line if you divided the amount you are taking out of the pattern in half.

True up the seam lines.

TIP – If you don’t have a French Curve Ruler, blending the Front Rise and the Hip Curve can be done by hand by just smoothing out the curve as best as you can.

At this point you can either leave the Front Leg pattern piece the way it is, or you can retrace it onto the tracing paper.

If you choose to trace it, lay the pattern piece on top of the tracing paper and place pattern weights on top of the pattern so it won’t move. Trace around your new Back Leg pattern piece. 

Cut out the new pattern piece, label it and set aside. 

Repeat step 1.1 then 1.7 to 1.11 for the Back Leg pattern piece.

Grading between sizes based upon your measurements is extremely important to make a well-fitting pair of pants. 

The alterations to the pattern you need to make for height/length should already be done, so now you’re ready to grade between the sizes for your measurements. 

Lay the pattern pieces out, and using the ruler with the hip curve, grade between the sizes from your waist size to hip size. 

For example, if your waist falls into an XXS and your hips fall into an S, you will start at an XXS and draw a curve from the waist to the hips with the ruler.

Grade between any other sizes your measurements call for. 

Don’t forget to grade the Pocket Bag, Facings etc. 

We recommend making a muslin to check the fit of the pants on your body. Even after making changes to your pattern pieces, it’s still important to check the fit of your pants. 

A muslin or toile is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final fabric. There is no need to finish your seams beautifully, just lengthen the stitches on your sewing machine and baste the legs and waistband, clip or pin together at the waist and try it on. If the pants pattern has a yoke, like the Jo Jeans for example, you will also need to stitch these pieces to the legs in order to adjust all pattern pieces correctly.

Try your muslin on then continue with the Fitting Adjustments. 

A Full Tummy adjustment is beneficial when the pants feel tight in the tummy, you have drag lines that are “smiling” up from the crotch area, the pockets are gaping and there is straining or pulling at the fly-front zipper. 

Looking at your pictures, identify the fullest part of your tummy and mark the corresponding place on the pattern piece where you need the extra ease added in. 

On the Front Leg piece, draw a horizontal line across the pattern piece from the side seam to the center front where you need the extra ease, or at the fullest part of your tummy. 

Cut the line from the center front to the side seam, be careful not to cut all the way to the edge and leave a little hinge.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg of the pattern piece to the tracing paper. Then spread or rotate the Upper pattern piece the amount you need added. 

Tape the upper pattern piece in place.

NOTE – Start by adding ¼ inch, and then adjust from there as needed.

Smooth out the lines that need to be smoothed.

If the Crotch is too long, you will notice extra length at the crotch making the pants appear to be too long for you. You will see drag lines that resemble frown lines that radiate down from the front crotch towards the thigh. The remedy is to remove width from the inseam. 

A Crotch that is too short can be identified by feeling like the crotch is too tight. If this is a problem for you, you will see drag lines that are radiating upwards from the front crotch like a smile towards the waistband. The solution is to add width to the Crotch Seam.

The image on the left is Lengthen, the image on the right is Shorten.

SHORTENING – Along the Front Inseam, shorten the front crotch curve.

Tape or glue the pattern onto tracing paper.

With a ruler, carefully take away ¼ inch at a time to the Front Inseam. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount taken out of the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

Use one of the rulers to true up the new inseam line. 

LENGTHENING – Along the Front Inseam, widen the Front Crotch curve.

Tape or glue the pattern onto tracing paper.

With a ruler, carefully add ¼ inch at a time to the Front Inseam. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

Use one of the rulers to true up the new inseam line.

A Round Pubis is also known as a Camel Toe. A Round Pubis is characterized by vertical drag lines that dig into the pubic area around the front crotch. To solve the problem, you need to adjust the pattern to create extra room for the curve of your body. 

Along the Front Rise (or crotch curve), scoop the curve out. 

NOTE – This deepens the crotch area and allows more room.

Carefully take out ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

A Flat Pubis may mean that your pubic bone is flatter or may even be just a little further back than what the pattern has been drafted for. If you have a Flat Pubis, you will see – horizontal wrinkles in the front crotch, some of the lines may extend all the way to the hip and the pants will feel tight.  

If your horizontal lines extend to your hips and the pants feel too tight in the hip, try letting the pants out at the hip before doing a Flat Pubis adjustment.

To start, take a smaller seam allowance than what the instructions call for. 

If you are still having the horizontal lines, then you will draw a shallower front crotch curve. Basically, this flattens the curve for your body.

Tape or glue the pattern onto tracing paper.

Carefully add in ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

Gaping can occur in the back more than just at the waistband. If your pants are gaping at the back below the waistband, you’ll need to remove some width so the pants will sit flat. 

Hip Hinge Option – Much like the Gaping Waistband, before you can determine how much width needs taken out, you’ll need to put your muslin on. Once on, pinch the back of the pants. Take the muslin off and measure how much you pinned on each side. 

The amount measured after you pinned the pinched gaping fabric is what you are going to take out. For example, if you pinned ¾ inch on both sides, that’s what will be taken out of the Yoke. You’ll want to take away fabric on both sides of the center back of the Yoke, because you want the Yoke to be even on both sides. Divide the pinned amount in half – 1 ½ inches divided in half is ¾ inch. Which means you’ll take out ¾ inch on each side of the center back of the Yoke. 

DEEP DART OPTION – If your pants have a back dart, try this option first.

In small increments, make the dart on the Back Leg pattern piece deeper. 

NOTE – Be careful about how much width is removed through the dart. If you have more to take out, move on to step 7.1.2.

To take more width from the pattern, taking it from the center back seam is where you’ll take it from next.

Only take small increments at a time. Doing this will change the back crotch seam angle. 

NOTE – Be very careful how much you take from the center back seam as well.

HIP HINGE OPTION – On the Back Leg piece, draw a line from center back seam to the hip. Cut across this line. 

Measure from this line down the rise by how much you need to adjust by.

Rotate the upper Back Leg pattern piece down to align with the mark made in 7.1.3.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg of the pattern piece to the tracing paper. Then spread or rotate the Upper pattern piece the amount you need taken away. 

Tape the upper pattern piece in place.

True the new crotch line.

NOTE – Start by adding ¼ inch, and then adjust from there as needed.

If you need a Swayback adjustment, you will notice fabric bunching above your bottom and the center back of the pants most likely gapes away from your body before the waistband is attached. The drag lines for a sway back will appear as horizontal lines right below the waistband. 

To figure out how much needs removed from the pattern, put your muslin on inside out and pin the excess fabric.

On the Back Leg piece, draw a line from Center Back to hip. Cut along this line.

Measure from this line down the rise by how much you need to adjust by.

Rotate the upper Back Leg pattern piece down to align with the mark made in 7.2.1.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg of the pattern piece to the tracing paper. Then spread or rotate the Upper pattern piece the amount you need taken away. 

Tape the upper pattern piece in place.

True the new crotch line.

NOTE – Start by adding ¼ inch, and then adjust from there as needed.

A Full Seat adjustment may be necessary if your pants feel tight across the seat, there are tight diagonal wrinkles radiating from the fullest part of your bottom toward the back crotch seam, and the back waist is pulling down. There are a lot of ways to adjust for a full seat. Use a method you are more familiar with or follow the steps below. 

On the Back Leg piece, draw a line across the pattern piece from the center back to the hip seam.  

Cut the line from the center back to the hip seam, be careful not to cut all the way to the edge and leave a little hinge.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg of the pattern piece to the tracing paper. Then spread or rotate the Upper pattern piece the amount you need added. 

Tape or glue the upper pattern piece in place.

True the center back with a ruler or by hand.

NOTE – Start by adding ¼ inch, and then adjust from there as needed.

A Flat Seat adjustment can be seen in pants by excess fabric under the bottom or around the fullest part of the bottom that appears to pool. It can also be shown by drag lines that are diagonal from the upper thigh to the hip. There are a lot of ways to adjust for a flat seat. Use a method you are more familiar with or follow the steps below.

FLAT SEAT – On the Back Leg piece, draw a line across the pattern piece from the hip to the center back seam.

Cut the line from the center back to the hip, be careful not to cut all the way to the edge and leave a little hinge.

Measure how much you need to take off the pattern, then draw a line from the cut line on the Bottom Leg Pattern piece. 

NOTE – Start by moving the upper pattern piece down ¼ inch, and then adjust from there as needed.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg of the pattern piece to the tracing paper. Then spread or rotate the Upper pattern piece the amount you need taken away. 

Tape the upper pattern piece in place.

Use one of the rulers to true up the new inseam line.

A Low Seat adjustment is typically indicated by horizontal drag lines under your bottom and excess fabric under the bottom. This happens because the bottom sits low enough that it pushes the pant fabric down which causes the drag lines and pooling of fabric underneath the bottom and on the legs. 

On the Center Back, carefully scoop out the crotch curve taking out small increments at a time.  

True the Center Back curve so it is in more of an ‘L’ shape than the beginning curve shape. 

Repeat the process until you have the correct crotch curve and the drag lines and fabric pooling has disappeared. 

A gape at the top of the Back Waistband or the Yoke is a sure sign that you’ll need to do a waistband adjustment or a Yoke adjustment.

Before you can determine how much width needs to be taken off the waistband, you’ll need to put your muslin on. Once on, pinch the back of the waistband and pin it so there is no longer any gaping. Take the muslin off and measure how much you pinned together. 

Now you need to calculate how much to take out of the Waistband. The amount measured after you pinned the pinched gaping fabric is what you are going to take out. For example, if you pinned together 1 ½ inches, that’s what will be taken out of the waistband. You’ll want to take away fabric on both sides of the center back of the waistband, because you want the waistband to be even on both sides. Divide the pinned amount in half – 1 ½ inches divided in half is ¾ inch. Which means you’ll take out ¾ inch on each side of the center back of the waistband. 

NOTE – Length can be taken from two or three spots along the top of the waistband. For this tutorial, length was only taken from one spot as the waistband is cut on the fold. Because the waistband is cut on the fold, essentially length is being taken out of both sides of the waistband. 

Lay the Waistband pattern piece out and draw one or two vertical lines on each side of the center back depending on whether the waistband is cut on the fold. 

Measure the amount that was calculated to take out of each side of the center back, with half on each side of the line. Make a mark on both sides of the line.

For example – If you need to take ¾ inch out, measure ⅜ inch on each side of the line drawn in step 7.6.1 and make a mark on the pattern.

Draw a line connecting the marks made in step 7.6.2 to the base of the line drawn in step 7.6.1, creating a dart in the pattern. 

Cut along one edge of the dart. 

Pivot the pattern over to match the cut line with the other side of the dart, tape or glue the lines together. 

True the curve at the top of the waistband. 

NOTE – The Waistband from the Joey Jeans is cut on the fold; to show what the waistband will look like cut on the fold, the waistband has had a second piece turned over and placed together with the original pattern piece.

YOKE – Lay the Yoke pattern piece out and draw a line down the center of the Yoke. 

NOTE – The width can be taken out at the center back seam. We don’t however recommend taking the width out there as the pitch of the back seat will be changed. 

Measure the amount that was calculated to take out of each side of the center back, with half on each side of the line. Make a mark on both sides of the line.

For example – If you need to take ¾ inch out, measure ⅜ inch on each side of the line drawn in step 6.1 and make a mark on the pattern.

Draw a line connecting the marks made in step 7.6.2 to the base of the line drawn in step 7.6.1, creating a dart in the pattern.

Cut along one edge of the dart. 

Pivot the pattern over to match the cut line with the other side of the dart drawn in 7.6.3, tape or glue the lines together.

Smooth out the curve at the top and bottom of the Yoke.

A Knock Knee adjustment might be needed if you have drag lines, or almost all folds stem from the side seam to the knee. The pants will feel like the fabric along your side seam is loose and the inseam feels tighter. The goal of a Knock Knee adjustment is to give your inseam a little bit more length while taking just a little away at the side seam where you don’t need it. 

 Draw a line straight across the Center point in the middle of the Front Leg.

Cut on the pattern on either side of the center point, leaving the center point uncut.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg to the Tracing Paper.

Rotate the Upper Pant to the side seam, overlapping the Lower Pant Leg with the Upper Pant Leg which reduces the side seam length and increases the inseam length. 

Tape or glue the Upper Pant Leg in place.

TIP – Overlap the pattern pieces by ¼ inch at a time until you achieve the correct fit. 

True the seams.

A Bow Leg adjustment is the exact opposite of the Knock Knee adjustment. Diagonal drag from the inseam to the knee and calf is an indication that a Bow Leg adjustment may be needed. Here you will be adjusting the side seam so there is more length and shortening the inseam just a little as you don’t need the length there as much. 

Draw a line straight across the Center point in the middle of the Front Leg.

Cut on the pattern on either side of the center point, leaving the center point uncut.

Tape or glue the Lower Pant Leg to the Tracing Paper.

Rotate the Upper Pant to the inseam, overlapping the Lower Pant Leg with the Upper Pant Leg which reduces the inseam length and increases the side seam length. 

TIP – Overlap the pattern pieces by ¼ inch at a time until you achieve the correct fit. 

True the seams.

Full Thigh adjustments can be spotted by diagonal wrinkles that stem from the crotch and move toward the outer thigh. It will most likely appear that the fabric is pulling and tight. A Full Thigh adjustment can be done on the Outer Thighs, Inner Thighs and a Full Inner and Outer adjustment. 

FULL INNER THIGH – Along the Back Leg, widen both the front and back inseam.

Carefully add ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

True the new inseam. 

FULL OUTER THIGH – Lay out both the Front and Back Leg pattern pieces. Match the crotch of the Front and Draw a line from the crotch straight across to the side seam on both pieces. Carefully line up the pieces matching the lines and glue or tape them onto the tracing paper.  

NOTE – The Front Leg for this step has been turned over and re-labeled to match the crotches up. If you use the Joey Jeans, your pattern piece will not look like this.

For this adjustment, the amount that will be taken out needs to be divided equally among both seams.

Carefully add ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

TIP – If you need to add more than ¾ inch to 1 inch, consider also doing a Low Butt Adjustment.

True the side seam line. 

FULL INNER AND OUTER THIGH – Lay out both the Front and Back Leg pattern pieces. Draw a line from the crotch straight across to the side seam on both pieces. Carefully line up the pieces matching the lines and glue or tape them onto the tracing paper.  

For this adjustment, the amount that will be taken out needs to be divided equally among both seams.

Carefully add ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

True all the seams.

A Thin Thigh is characterized by having surplus fabric around the thighs. It will depend on where your thighs are thinner than the pattern is drafted as to where you will take width out. 

INNER THIGH – Lay out the Back Leg pattern piece and then along the Back Rise (Back Crotch Curve), remove length by taking in the inseam.  

Carefully take away ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

Repeat for the Front Leg pattern piece as needed.

Carefully take away ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

True the new inseam line.

OUTER THIGH – Lay out the Back Leg pattern piece then along the side seam, remove width by taking in the inseam. It is important to take equal amounts from both inseams. 

Carefully take away ¼ inch at a time. 

True the side seams.

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

INNER AND OUTER THIGH – For this adjustment, the amount that will be taken out needs to be divided equally among all four seams, front inseam, back inseam, both side seams. 

Start by laying out the Back Leg pattern piece then along the side seam, remove width by taking in the inseams.  

Carefully take away ⅛ to ¼ inch at a time. 

True all of the seams.

NOTE – Even though it doesn’t seem like a lot, a small amount added into the inseam goes a long way and makes a big difference.

If the Calf feels tight and you have horizontal drag lines at the back of your knees, chances are that you need a Full Calf adjustment. To find how much needs to be adjusted, take the pattern’s finished calf measurement and then subtract your calf measurement. The answer will tell you how much you’re going to add to the pattern. 

Find and mark the point where the widest point of the calf is on the Back Leg Pattern piece.  From that point, measure between 1 inch to 2 inches up and draw a dot on the pattern. 

NOTE – The amount you measure here is dependent on how tall you are/how long your legs are. The taller you are the closer to 2 inches you’ll measure from the first mark, and the shorter you are the closer to 1 inch you’ll add. Basically, the amount you add in needs to be in proportion to how long your legs are so the added amount is spread over an appropriate amount of height.

Draw another dot on the Inner Leg Seam a little bit below the crotch. 

Repeat on the Side Seam around the middle of the leg seam.

NOTE – The placement of the dot isn’t particularly important, the lines that will be drawn in the next step just need to be at an angle.

Draw a line up the middle of the Back Leg parallel with the grainline from the hem to the dot.

From the center line, draw two symmetrical lines angling up toward the Inner Leg Seam and the Side Seam where the dots are on both legs.

 Cut along all three of the lines, but do not cut through the side seams. They need to act as a hinge, so they need to stay attached.

Tape one part of the pattern onto a piece of tracing paper. 

Pivot the other parts of the Pattern open, then spread the bottom leg portion of the pattern piece open to match the measurement you need to add (the number you got before starting this step.)

Tape the other pieces down to the tracing paper.

With a ruler, draw a new hemline that is perpendicular to the grainline. 

True up any of the other seams.

Cut the pattern out.