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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
28
Paris Party Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This pattern is for a gorgeous and flattering gathered dress that sits just below the knee. There are two skirt options, two neckline options and three sleeve options in three different lengths, ensuring you can suit your own style.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries & stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Skirt – The skirt is very full but is precisely measured at the waist, so choose your skirt size by your waist measurement.
- As the skirt has box pleats in it all the way around, the finished garment measurement is exact.
- If you want to have the skirt to sit lower than your natural waist, check the finished garment measurements and select a larger size that will sit where you want it to.
- Check the finished garment measurement against your own measurements before selecting your size by holding a tape measure around your waist.
- When you get to steps 4 and 5 (back and side seams) in the tutorial, make sure to try the skirt on and check the fit.
- For most body shapes, you will find the sizing generous and comfortable over the hips. However, if you find it tight over the hips when you check the fit, shorten your pleats so that the skirt flares out higher up to give you more room. Alternatively, there is also an option to baste the pleats only and remove the basting later. This will also add lots of room on the hipline.
- OPTIONAL Pockets – The pockets work much better with the option to baste your pleats and then remove the basting later. If you do the option to stitch the pleats down, do not do the pocket option as well as the side seam is more fitted over the hip so the pockets are likely to gape open.
- Top – If your bust and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your bust measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your bust and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
- The ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches, with a sewing C cup bust.
- If you are taller or shorter you may need to use the lengthen/shorten lines on the top to get a good fit and adjust the length of the skirt accordingly.
- Given that the top is designed for knit/stretch fabrics, it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do a FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are pinned in the link below.
- To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments. The skirt requires a lot of fabric but the main part you want to check is the fit around the waist. To do this, make a muslin by cutting the skirt as normal but very short (e.g. only 5-10 inches long). It won’t be a wearable garment, but you can then stitch in the box pleats, wrap it around your model and check the fit around the waist.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your top fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey and light sweater knits. Do not use a woven fabric.
- Neckband – If you are going to use the same fabric for the neckband as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch for it to fit and easily go over your head when putting it on. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). If it doesn’t, you’ll need to either use a ribbing-type fabric for the neckband, or size up one size for the neckband piece.
- For best results your skirt fabric needs to be woven (e.g. cotton, linen, satin, poly cotton). Some knit fabrics will work but will need a woven-only interfacing for the waistband. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with light to medium weight fabric (e.g. rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey). If you go for a very heavy fabric, you may find some seams bulky and/or the fit a bit tighter than expected.
- If you want the skirt to have some body, go for a fabric that holds its shape. For example, scuba knit or duchess satin have great body and will really give the skirt a ‘puff’ look. However, if you choose anything with a stretch in it, make sure to use a woven-only fabric for the waistband (or a very strong interfacing) to give the skirt support.
- This needs to be woven (e.g. cotton, quilting cotton, lining). You can use the same fabric as your skirt, or as shown in the tutorial photos, a contrasting fabric. For most sizes, you should be able to get these out of your main skirt fabric requirements. However, for some ladies sizes, or if you want to use contrasting fabric, you’ll need approximately ¼ yard.
- 1x Zipper – 4 inch for sizes 0-12 months, 5 inch for sizes 12-24 months, 6 inch for sizes 2-12 years, and 8 inch for ladies sizes.
- Interfacing – This is just for the waistband piece. ¼ yard will more than suffice.
- 1-2 x buttons or snaps (x1 for the regular waist or x2 for the high waist), ½ inch wide.
- Thread to match
- OPTIONAL – Double sided fusible tape to help insert the zipper
- OPTIONAL – Fray check for when finishing buttonholes
- You will find due to the style of the pleats, the front piece cut on the fold is very wide compared to the waist measurement. The depth of the pleats gives the skirt its look so they’re really important. However, that also means that for some sizes, you may find you cannot fit the front piece on your fabric to cut it.
- If you are doing a child’s size, or you are using 110inch / 280cm wide fabric, you can cut normally and ignore the rest of this section.
- If however you are doing a ladies size and using 60inch / 150cm (or 45inch / 115cm) wide fabric, you may need to do one of the following:
- Ignore the grainline – The skirt is designed to be cut with the grainline running vertically down the pattern piece. Normally grainlines are really important and I would never suggest altering them. And for this skirt if you are using a light weight fabric, or a fabric with stretch or drape, you need to follow the grainline or the finished skirt will hang strangely. However if you are using a medium weight woven that holds its shape nicely, you can turn the pattern piece so it runs down the fabric (e.g. the grainline runs across the pattern piece). There is very little shaping on the side seams of the skirt. Most of the shaping and silhouette of the skirt is created in how the pleats fit together. Before cutting, hold your fabric up in this direction and check if you like how it hangs.
- Split your pattern piece – This is the more traditional approach. If your fabric stretches, drapes or has a directional print, this is what you’ll need to do. To do this:
- Take your pattern piece and draw a line down the center of the middle pleat (we use the midddle pleat instead of the center front line as the skirt will look more symmetrical with 2 seam lines down the hipbones rather than one seam down the center front). This is the pink dashed line on the diagram to the right. Cut the pattern piece down this line. Your pattern piece is now divided into two segments.
- Next, add a ½ inch seam allowance to each piece by sticking a piece of paper to the cut edge of each pattern segment. The left segment is your side front piece, the right segment is your center front.
- Cut 2 mirror images from your fabric using the side front piece. Cut 1 on the fold using the center front piece. You will join these three pieces of fabric together when we come to sewing the skirt and the seams will be hidden inside the pleats.
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewParis Party Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A semi-fitted knit top and a woven pleated skirt create this party dress set. The top has two necklines: scoop or boat neck with a crop or top length. Choose between short, three-quarter, and long sleeves. The skirt has optional pockets and is finished with an invisible zipper. With three lengths; above knee, knee, and tea length and two waistband options; regular and high. This pattern has so many wonderful options to mix and match, you can sew a multitude of looks.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Top
Skirt
Chest
Waist
Length
Waist
Length
Top
Crop
Above knee
Knee
Tea
XXS
31.00
25.75
20.50
16.75
25.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XS
33.25
27.75
20.75
17.00
27.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
S
35.50
30.00
21.25
17.25
28.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
M
37.50
32.00
21.50
17.75
30.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
L
39.50
34.25
22.00
18.00
32.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XL
43.00
37.50
22.25
18.50
35.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XXL
46.00
40.75
22.75
18.75
38.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
3XL
49.25
44.00
23.00
19.00
42.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
4XL
52.75
47.00
23.50
19.25
46.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
5XL
56.00
50.25
23.75
19.75
50.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
Top lengths are down the center back, from the top of the back neckline to the hem. Skirt lengths are excluding the waistband, from the waist to the hem.
Fitting NotesThe top is semi-fitted. This means it is not skin tight, nor is it meant to be baggy. The skirt is designed to sit on the natural waistline.
Materials and ToolsTop fabric
Skirt fabric
OPTIONAL Pockets fabric
Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Top
Skirt
Above Knee
Knee
Tea
XXS – XL
1.50
1.50
1.75
2.00
XXL – 5L
1.50
2.25
2.50
2.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, and optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Top Sleeve Neckband Skirt Crop Top Short 3/4 Long Boat Scoop Above Knee Knee Tea length Waistband Pockets XXS – S 2-3, 7-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 7-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-5 4-5, 10-11 4-5, 10-11, 16-17 20-22 20-23 28-30, 34-36, 40-42 28-30, 34-36, 40-42 28-30, 34-36, 40-42 14-15, 20-22
25 M – XXL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-5 4-5, 10-11 4-5, 10-11, 16-17 20-22 20-23 27-30, 33-36, 39-42 27-30, 33-36, 39-42 27-30, 33-36, 39-42 14-15, 20-22
25 3XL – 4XL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-5 4-5, 10-11 4-5, 10-11, 16-17 20-23 20-24 26-30, 32-36, 38-42 26-30, 32-36, 38-42 26-30, 32-36, 38-42 14-15, 20-22
25 5XL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 3-6 3-6, 10-11 3-6, 10-11, 16-17 20-23 20-24 25-42 25-42 25-42 14-17, 20-23
25 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Top Sleeve Neckband Skirt Crop Top Short 3/4 Long Boat Scoop Above Knee Knee Tea length Waistband Pockets XXS – S 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 7-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-5 4-5, 10-11 4-5, 10-11, 16-17 14-16 14-17 23-25, 29-31, 35-37 23-25, 29-31, 35-37 23-25, 29-31, 35-37, 41-43 20-21 19, 25 M – XL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-5 4-5, 10-11 4-5, 10-11, 16-17 14-17 14-18 22-25, 28-31, 34-37 22-25, 28-31, 34-37 22-25, 28-31, 34-37, 40-43 20-22 19, 25 XXL – 4XL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-6 4-6, 10-12 4-6, 10-12, 16-17 14-17 14-18 21-25, 27-31, 33-37 21-25, 27-31, 33-37 21-25, 27-31, 33-37, 39-43 20-23 19, 25 5XL 2-3, 6-9, 12-13, 18-19 2-3, 6-9, 12-15, 18-19 4-6 4-6, 10-12 4-6, 10-12, 16-17 14-17 14-18 21-37 21-37 21-43 20-23 19, 25 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
When you come to cutting out the ladies skirt, you need to cut 2x back pieces to the back cutting line, and 1x front piece on the fold.
NOTE – Some of the ladies waistband pieces also won’t fit across the fabric. If you are using a directional print or fabric with nap and want to follow the grain correctly, split the pattern piece as above. If not, ignore the grainline and cut with it running down the fabric rather than across. The waistband will be interfaced so it will have extra support.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Neckband (Fabric cut 1)
Waistband (Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1)
Boat Neckline
Scoop Neckline
Height
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Regular
High
XXS
1.5
20.0
1.5
25.8
4.0
6.0
27.5
XS
1.5
20.5
1.5
26.5
4.0
6.0
29.5
S
1.5
21.0
1.5
27.3
4.0
6.0
30.5
M
1.5
21.5
1.5
27.8
4.0
6.0
32.5
L
1.5
22.0
1.5
28.5
4.0
6.0
34.5
XL
1.5
23.0
1.5
29.5
4.0
6.0
37.5
XXL
1.5
24.0
1.5
30.5
4.0
6.0
40.5
3XL
1.5
25.0
1.5
31.5
4.0
6.0
44.5
4XL
1.5
26.0
1.5
32.8
4.0
6.0
48.5
5XL
1.5
27.0
1.5
34.0
4.0
6.0
52.5
Cutting Checklist:
Now you should have:
Top
● “Top Front” – cut 1 on the fold.
Choose one: boat neck or scoop neck.Choose length: crop length or top length.
● “Top Back” – cut 1 on the fold (crop length or top length)
Choose length: crop length or top length.
● “Sleeve” – cut 2 on fold.
Choose length: Short Sleeve, ¾ Sleeve or long Sleeve.
● “Soap Neck Band” – cut 1 (optional)
● “Boat Neck Band” – cut 1 (optional)
You must choose one soap or boat neck band.
Skirt
● “Skirt Front” – cut on fold (on front fold line)
● Choose length: Above knee length, knee length, tea length.
● “Skirt Back” – cut 2 mirror image pieces (on back cutting line)
Choose length: Above knee length, knee length, tea length.
● “Pocket Bag” – cut 2 (2 mirror image pairs)
● “Waist Band” – fabric cut 1 on fold.
Choose one: High waistband or regular waistband.
● “Waist Band” – Interfacing cut 1 on fold.
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting - + Instructions
- SHOULDERS – Stitch or serge shoulder seams.
- SLEEVES – Stitch or serge Sleeves to shoulders.
- NECK BINDING – Pin one raw edge of the binding right side to right side on the raw edge of the neckline. Stitch or serge to the neckline. Press seam allowance and the binding up and away from the shirt. Fold the bias remaining raw edge toward the wrong side of the neckline. Wrap the folded bias to the wrong side over the seam allowance and topstitch in place.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch or serge the side seams.
- HEMMING – Fold bottom of Sleeves and top under by 1 inch, press and top stitch in place.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband.
- PLEATS – Mark and either stitch down or baste pleats. Press. If stitched down, optional topstitch in place.
- OPTIONAL INSEAM POCKETS – French seam Pockets in place on left and right side of both Front and Backs.
- SIDE SEAMS – Either serge or French seam side seams. If did Pockets, pivot around and clip.
- ZIPPER & BACK SEAM – Try the skirt on again now before completing this step and check the fit. Make any adjustments. Using ⅝ inch seam allowance (¼ inch then ⅜ inch seam allowance for the French seam), insert lapped zip with a French seam below zip.
- HEM – Fold the hem ½ inch toward the wrong side twice and press. Top stitch in place.
- WAISTBAND – Fold one long raw edge of the Waistband under ½ inch and press. With the zipper open, pin the long unfolded raw edge of the Waistband on the skirt. Match the right-hand side seam allowance mark on the Waistband with the right-hand side zipper teeth. The other end should have a 1.5-2 inch overlap for the buttons later. Press the seam allowance and the Waistband up and away from the skirt. Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise right side to right side keeping the long edge of the Waistband folded. Stitch both short edges. Clip the corners off and flip the Waistband right side out. Tuck raw edges up inside and topstitch all the way around the Waistband. Apply either snaps or button/buttonhole on overlap to secure.
- With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin and stitch one Side Front piece to the Center Front, ¼ inch from the edge.
- Trim the seam allowances approximately in half. TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
- Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
- Pin and stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
- Repeat to stitch the other Side Front piece to the other end of the Center Front. The skirt Front should now be one long piece.
- Stitched Down Pleat Option – Press the pleat only as far down as your stitching goes. Leave the rest of the skirt below the stitching unpleated.
- Basted Pleat Option – Press the pleat down only the first ½ inch. Leave the rest of the skirt below this unpleated.
- If you are using a serger, and not doing the Pockets option, serge the skirt bacs to the skirt Front, with right sides together at the side seam. Use a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.
- If you are using a serger and doing the Pockets option, pin the skirt backs to the skirt Front, with right sides together, at the side seam. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, carefully pivoting at the bottom of the Pocket. Be careful not to snip into the fabric with your serger blade as you pivot. Then skip to step 5.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetThe SKIRT seam allowances are ½ inch and are included
The TOP seam allowances are ¼ inch and are also included
Basting is at ¼ inch and topstitching is at ⅛ inch. Hems are all 1 inch.Top Sewing Instructions –
Skirt Sewing Instructions –
Preparation – If you cut your Front skirt piece in sections, join them now.1 . ShouldersSeam Allowance
The SKIRT seam allowances are ½ inch, the TOP seam allowances are ¼ inch, Basting is at ¼ inch and topstitching is at ⅛ inch. Hems are all 1 inch.
1.1Pin the Front and Back Bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams.
Stitch or serge the shoulder using a ¼ seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press to the back.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out overtime with wear. To install the elastic leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.
2 . Sleeves2.0This step is for all Sleeve lengths.
2.1Open the Bodice flat right side facing up.
2.2For each Sleeve, fold the Sleeve in half and place a pin at the top of the fold to mark the Sleeve cap.
2.3With the right sides together, align the middle point of the Sleeve cap marked with a pin with the shoulder seam.
Pin the corners of your Sleeve with the corners of your armscye. Continue to pin the Sleeve to the armscye.
If you are using a fabric with good stretch, no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place. Stitch or serge the Sleeve around the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
2.4Press the seam towards the Sleeve and away from the Bodice.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
NOTE – On the smaller sizes, you might find it easier to hem the Sleeves at that point. Skip to step 5.1 for instructions.
3 . Neck Binding3.0This step is the same regardless of whether you are doing the scoop or boat neck.
3.1Fold the Neckband in half length-wise, right side to right side. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance and a stretch stitch to create a loop. If using a regular sewing machine, press the seam allowance open and if using a serger press the seam to one side.
3.2Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of the binding and neckline.
3.3Pin one raw edge of the binding right side to right side on the raw edge of the neckline. Align the seam of the binding with center back and match the quarter points. Pin to secure.
3.4Stitch or serge while stretching the binding gently to match the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Pay attention to only stretch the binding and not the neckline. Press the seam allowance and the binding up and away from the shirt.
3.5Fold the bias remaining raw edge toward the wrong side of the neckline.
3.6Wrap the folded bias to the wrong side over the seam allowance. Secure with pins from the right side of the fabric.
3.7Topstitch the binding in place using a narrow twin needle or a zigzag stitch. Press.
4 . Sides Seams4.1With the right sides of the fabric together pin the Front and back pieces together starting at the Sleeve to the bottom of the side seam.
Stitch or serge in a continuous seam from the Sleeve to the Bodice using a ¼ seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam towards the back.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
5 . Hemming5.0This step is for the crop or full length top.
5.1Fold the bottom of the Sleeves to the wrong side by 1 inch and press.
5.2From the right side topstitch just under 1 inch from the fold, using a twin needle, a medium size zigzag or a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edge of the fabric with a serger or a mock overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine before turning it under.
5.3Repeat step 5.1 to 5.2 to hem the bottom of the top.
NOTE – If you hemmed the Sleeves before closing the sides, tack the seam allowance toward the back.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
The SKIRT seam allowances are ½ inch, the TOP seam allowances are ¼ inch, Basting is at ¼ inch and topstitching is at ⅛ inch. Hems are all 1 inch.
0.0½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
0.1If you cut your Front Skirt piece in three sections (2x Side Front and 1x Center Front) you need to join them now.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, serge the Side Fronts to the Front using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 1.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the side seams together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1 . Interfacing1.1Apply light weight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband as per manufacturer instructions. Set aside.
2 . Pleats2.0There are two pleat options: Stitched down or basted.
Stitched Down Pleats (the first image) – This is where you stitch the pleats in using a normal stitch and backstitch at either end. You then leave the stitching in place. The skirt will be fitted over the hips and flares out about mid-pelvis. You can do Pockets with this style, however they are more suited for children sizes only. Ladies sizes will find the Pockets gape open on this style due to the skirt being fitted across the hips.
Basted Pleats (the second imaget) – This is where you use a long, loose stitch to baste the pleats in place. You leave this stitching in place until you have attached the Waistband, then you remove the basting stitches. The skirt will be fitted at the waist and flares out directly under the Waistband. Pockets are suitable on this style for both the child’s and ladies sizes.
Choose which pleat style you want, then continue below.
Careful measuring and marking is the key to achieve successful pleats and avoid ending up with pieces that don’t fit together.
There are many ways of putting together pleats. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:
2.1Place the pattern piece on top of the fabric, lining it up accurately on the wrong side of the fabric.
To transfer the pleat markings, I like to punch a small hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark either with an awl or a pin.
2.2Using a washable marker or some tailors chalk mark the bottom of the pleat with a dot. Mark the top of the pleat. Trace a line to connect the top and the bottom of the pleat.
2.3I find the most accurate way of completing the pleat is to fold the lines of the pleat together, right sides together and secure with a pin.
STITCHED DOWN PLEAT OPTION – Sew the pleat directly on the line. Sew all the pleats of the Front and back pieces this way. Backstitch to secure at either end. Trim any excess thread. Skip to step 2.3
BASTED PLEAT OPTION – Using a long loose stitch (basting stitch), sew the pleat directly on the line. Do not secure the stitching at either end as we will remove this stitching later. Leave the excess thread hanging and loose.
2.4One by one, press the fold of the pleats before opening them. By pressing, you will mark the middle of the pleat, which will help with the next step.
2.5From the wrong side of the fabric, open the pleat flat. Make sure to match the center of the pleat with the seam; so that the center fold turns out to be the middle of the middle pleat. Pin.
2.6Press the pleat neatly from the waist downwards.
Baste the top of the pleats flat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Pleated finish – If you’d like the skirt to be pleated, press the pleat neatly from the waist down to the hem (as shown here).
“Puff” finish – If you’d like the skirt to puff out more:
2.7BASTED PLEAT OPTION – Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 for both back pattern pieces. Skip to step 3.1.
STITCHED DOWN PLEAT OPTION:
OPTIONAL – Topstitch around the pleat using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Stitch down the pleat and pivot the fabric with the presser feet up and needle down. Continue to topstitch towards the waist.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 for both back pattern pieces.
3 . OPTIONAL Inseam Pockets3.0If you are not doing the Pockets, skip to step 4.
If you are doing the Pockets, follow the steps below.
If possible, before completing this step, pin the side and back seams and try the skirt on. The pleats and measurements are designed to fit the exact top measurement in each size range. If you are near the bottom of the size range, you may need to adjust the fit now by trimming the side seams. If you do this, trim less rather than more! You can’t add the fabric back once you’ve cut it off. If uncertain, leave it. You will get an opportunity to try it on again before we do the zipper and back seam.
3.1Place one Pocket wrong side to wrong side with the top corner of the Front skirt matching the side seam and the waistline with the corresponding edges of the Pocket.
3.2Pin and sew your Pocket to the side seam using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowance in half and press it open.
3.4Flip your Pocket over so right sides are together and press well along your seam. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. Sew again along the edge of the Pocket with a 1/4 inch seam allowance encasing the raw edges into a French seam.
3.5You will now have a fold on the top and bottom of your Pocket. To correct this, make a little snip about ½ inch into the seam allowance using the very tip of your scissors directly above and below the Pocket.
Be careful not to cut past the Pocket seam line.
3.6Flip your Pocket out and away from the skirt and press your seam well.
3.7Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 to attach a Pocket on the other side of the Front skirt piece and on both back pieces.
4 . Side Seams4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the instructions below:
NOTE – The steps below are shown with the Pockets. Without the Pockets, follow the same steps but stitch straight down the side seam without any pivoting or going around a Pocket.
4.1Place the back pieces on the Front wrong sides together aligning the side seams and the Pockets. Pin.
4.2NO POCKET OPTION – Sew the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
POCKET OPTION – From the top, sew the Pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stop with the needle down, ½ inch from the bottom of the Pocket and, lifting your presser foot, pivot the fabric to continue stitching down the side seam. Put your presser foot back down and sew the side using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Trim the seam allowance in half along the side seam and Pocket.
4.4Flip the skirt side so it is now right side to right side and press well making sure that the seam line is exactly in the center of the fold.
NO POCKET OPTION – Stitch the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the other side seam. Skip to step 5.
POCKET OPTION – Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and pivot around the Pockets corners like in step 4.2.
4.5Baste the Pockets, through all layers, along the waistline towards the Front of the skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance and a long loose stitch.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 for the other side seam.
5 . Zipper & Back Seam5.0If possible, try the skirt on again now before completing this step and check the fit. Make any adjustments you need to make.
NOTE – The seam allowance of the following seam is different than the other steps. To allow for the lapped zipper, the total seam allowance on the back seam is ⅝ inch. We will use a ¼ inch then ⅜ inch seam allowance for the French seam instead of the ¼ inch then ¼ inch we did in step 4.
There are many different ways to insert a lapped zip and finish the raw edges so it’s all nice and neat. If you have another method you prefer, do this now. Otherwise, follow below:
5.1Place the back pieces wrong side to wrong side and mark the position of the zipper stop with a pin, a washable pen or chalk.
5.2From the bottom of hem, stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Stop stitching when you reach the pin and backstitch.
5.3Because we will use a larger seam allowance, it is not necessary to trim the seam allowance in half like we usually do. However, make sure to neaten up the edge so there are no threads sticking out from the right side.
Flip the back seam right side together and press making sure that the back seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Starting from the bottom of the hem, stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Stop stitching when you reach your zipper stop mark.
5.4Using the very tip of your scissors for maximum control, make a little snip into the seam allowance just above the top of the back French seam. Do not snip past the stitching line.
5.5Using a long and loose stitch, baste the remaining section of the back seam using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Start stitching from the top of the skirt and backstitch where your French seam begins.
5.6Press your French seam to one side and press the basted unfinished seam allowance open.
5.7Working with the zipper opened and facing down on the wrong side of the skirt, align the right-hand side coil so they are directly over the seam. Pin on the seam allowance only making sure not to catch the skirt fabric underneath.
5.8Using an adjustable zipper foot, baste the zipper to the seam allowance close to the edge.
5.9Take the seam allowance where you basted the zipper and fold it under, creating a little fold right where the teeth are. Roll it just enough to reveal the zipper coil and pin.
5.10Starting at the top of the zipper, use a zipper pressure foot to top stitch the little fold to the zipper.
Stitch as close as your zipper foot will allow to the end of the zipper.
5.11Zip up your zipper and turn the skirt right side out laying the zipper flat under the seam allowance.
5.12Lift the bottom of the skirt to see where the zipper stop ends and place a pin on the right side of the skirt to mark the placement. Pin the zipper tape in place on your right-hand side.
5.13Starting from the top, still using your zipper foot, topstitch about ½ inch from the seam line. Stop with the needle down when you reach the pin marking the zipper stop. Lift your presser foot and pivot the fabric at a right angle. Lower your presser foot and continue to stitch towards the seam line.
TIP – Go slowly and lift your presser foot to release tension as needed so there are no puckers.
TIP – Trace your seam line with a washable pen or chalk to ensure a nice straight stitch line.
5.14Using a seam ripper, delicately remove your basting stitches closing the lapped zipper.
TIP – Place a pin at the bottom of the zipper where your basting stitches end and your French seam start. The pin will prevent you from accidentally slicing the seam ripper too far.
6 . Hem6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom of the hem to neaten the edges. Fold the hem ½ inch towards the wrong side. Stitch in place. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the instructions below:
6.1Fold the hem ½ inch toward the wrong side and press.
6.2Fold the hem a second time ½ inch toward the wrong side enclosing the raw edge and press.
6.3OPTIONAL – If you are sewing with a heavier fabric, before stitching around the hem, unfold the hem and trim the French seam allowance just under ½ inch. It will reduce the bulk in the seam and still conceal all the raw edges.
6.4From the right side, topstitch along the fold just under ½ inch into the seam allowance. Press well.
Alternatively, you can sew a blind hem on the machine or by hand.
7 . Waistband7.1Fold one long raw edge of the Waistband under ½ inch and press.
7.2Mark the ½ inch seam allowances with a pin or a washable marker as shown.
7.3With the zipper open, turn the skirt wrong side out and pin the long unfolded raw edge of the Waistband on the skirt. The right side of the Waistband will face the wrong side of the skirt. Match the right-hand side seam allowance mark on the Waistband with the right-hand side zipper teeth.
7.4Continue to pin the Waistband around the waist without stretching. You should end up with an excess of about 1.5 to 2 inches on the left-hand side. This is for the overlap where your button/snaps will go.
Stitch around the Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Take care not to stitch over the folded seam allowance. This needs to remain loose so you can finish the Waistband.
TIP – If you find there is not a 1.5 – 2 inch overlap at the end of your Waistband, try pinning either end first, and then pinning in the center, then along the rest of the Waistband. The Waistband is measured on the pattern pieces to be an exact fit so if your skirt has stretched slightly, you may find you need to ease the two together this way.
7.5Press the seam allowance and the Waistband up and away from the skirt.
OPTIONAL – If you need to, now that the zipper is secured into the Waistband seam, cut your zipper excess.
7.6Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise right side to right side keeping the long edge of the Waistband folded. Stitch both short edges.
On the right-hand side, where the Waistband arrives flush with the zipper teeth, you will want to take a slightly smaller seam allowance than the usual ½ inch so the zipper tape will stay completely hidden into the Waistband. I used a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch with the zipper tape on top so you can see exactly where to stitch.
7.7Clip the corners off and flip the Waistband right side out.
NOTE – Instead of clipping the corners, when sewing with a light to medium weight fabric, I like to fold the seam allowance inside and hold it in place with tweezers while I turn it right side out. I find that it gives sharper corners and a very professional finish.
7.8Working from the right side of the skirt, fold the Waistband and pin the long folded edge down around the waistline.
You should be aiming to pin the hem of the Waistband just below the stitching line where the Waistband meets the skirt.
Make sure all raw edges are tucked up inside.
TIP – Instead of pins, I like to use a double sided fusible tape for this step. It helps hold it neatly in place.
7.9Topstitch all around the Waistband about ⅛ inch from the edge.
Alternatively, you can stitch the bottom of the Waistband by hand with invisible stitches. Remember to stitch along the bottom part on the extending side of the Waistband.
7.10SNAPS OPTION – Skip to step 7.11.
BUTTON OPTION:
For the regular Waistband – Stitch one buttonhole.
For the high Waistband – Stitch two buttonholes, one above the other.
Sew your buttonholes horizontally starting about ½ inch from the short edge of the Waistband.
Very delicately, open your buttonhole(s) with a seam ripper using a pin as a stopping point like in step 5.14. You can also use a buttonhole punch.
TIP – Before opening the buttonhole, put a few drops of Fray check and let them dry. It will give you a cleaner buttonhole. Test on a scrap of fabric first to make sure that it is appropriate for your fabric.
7.11SNAPS OPTION – Apply your snap(s) as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
BUTTONS OPTION – Sew your button(s) on the opposite side of the Waistband.
TIP – Sew your buttons to the left-hand side of the buttonholes to avoid tension on the zipper.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
The SKIRT seam allowances are ½ inch, the TOP seam allowances are ¼ inch, Basting is at ¼ inch and topstitching is at ⅛ inch. Hems are all 1 inch.
0.0One of the wonderful things about this pattern is how much you can change it and make it your own… and on that note, we have the most fabulous Add-On to the pattern that we think you’ll love. Here’s a little taster of what you’ll get…
1 . OPTION A: Lace Overlay1.0Use stretch lace to create an overlay over the top. Use either lace or regular sleeves.
Can use any neckline (boat or scoop) and the original sleeve pattern or puff sleeve. Does not work with the gathered cap sleeve.
2 . OPTION B: Simple Neckband2.0Very quick and easy method for attaching the neckband. Same construction as many t-shirt neckbands.
It’s an alternative to the neckband step in the original pattern and can be used with any other option.
3 . OPTION C: Puff Sleeves3.0Cute, puffed sleeve head. Has short, ¾ or long sleeve length options. To be used instead of the original sleeve pattern piece.
4 . OPTION D: Gathered Cap Sleeve4.0Very sweet, gathered cap sleeve. To be used instead of the original sleeve.
5 . OPTION E: Elastic Waist5.0The elastic waistband option has pleats on the front and gathers on the back. There is no zipper in this version.
Great for if you fall between sizes, or if you want an easier fit. Works great with the pockets option for both the ladies and child’s skirts.
6 . OPTION F: Dress (skirt attached to top)6.0Use this option to attach the skirt to the top to make a dress!
You need to use the elastic Waistband (no zip) option to do this. You can mix and match with any other neckline, or sleeve and the lining and/or petticoat.
7 . OPTION G: Skirt Lining7.0Add a lining to your skirt.
Instructions are included for both the elastic waistband option and the original zip option.
8 . OPTION H: Tulle Petticoat8.0This option adds a tulle petticoat to your skirt lining.
There is one single gathered layer of tulle part way down the lining. Plus, a second even wider gathered layer of tulle on top of this. Super full prettiness
You need to use the skirt lining option. However, you can use any other option you want (skirt on it’s own, dress, elastic waist, zipper)
9 . OPTION I: Petticoat Ribbon Hem9.0Add a lovely ribbon detail to the hem of the tulle petticoat.
Can be used with the tulle petticoat option.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Paris Party Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpparispartydress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewParis Party Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
A semi-fitted knit top and a woven pleated skirt create this party dress set. The top has two necklines: scoop or boat neck with a crop or top length. Choose between short, three-quarter, and long sleeves. The skirt has optional pockets and is finished with an invisible zipper. With three lengths; above knee, knee, and tea length and two waistband options; regular and high. This pattern has so many wonderful options to mix and match, you can sew a multitude of looks.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Top
Skirt
Chest
Waist
Length
Waist
Length
Top
Crop
Above knee
Knee
Tea
XXS
31.00
25.75
20.50
16.75
25.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XS
33.25
27.75
20.75
17.00
27.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
S
35.50
30.00
21.25
17.25
28.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
M
37.50
32.00
21.50
17.75
30.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
L
39.50
34.25
22.00
18.00
32.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XL
43.00
37.50
22.25
18.50
35.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
XXL
46.00
40.75
22.75
18.75
38.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
3XL
49.25
44.00
23.00
19.00
42.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
4XL
52.75
47.00
23.50
19.25
46.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
5XL
56.00
50.25
23.75
19.75
50.00
19.75
23.75
27.75
Top lengths are down the center back, from the top of the back neckline to the hem. Skirt lengths are excluding the waistband, from the waist to the hem.
Materials and ToolsTop fabric
- Your top fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey and light sweater knits. Do not use a woven fabric.
- Neckband – If you are going to use the same fabric for the neckband as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch for it to fit and easily go over your head when putting it on. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). If it doesn’t, you’ll need to either use a ribbing-type fabric for the neckband, or size up one size for the neckband piece.
Skirt fabric
- For best results your skirt fabric needs to be woven (e.g. cotton, linen, satin, poly cotton). Some knit fabrics will work but will need a woven-only interfacing for the waistband. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with light to medium weight fabric (e.g. rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey). If you go for a very heavy fabric, you may find some seams bulky and/or the fit a bit tighter than expected.
- If you want the skirt to have some body, go for a fabric that holds its shape. For example, scuba knit or duchess satin have great body and will really give the skirt a ‘puff’ look. However, if you choose anything with a stretch in it, make sure to use a woven-only fabric for the waistband (or a very strong interfacing) to give the skirt support.
OPTIONAL Pockets fabric
- This needs to be woven (e.g. cotton, quilting cotton, lining). You can use the same fabric as your skirt, or as shown in the tutorial photos, a contrasting fabric. For most sizes, you should be able to get these out of your main skirt fabric requirements. However, for some ladies sizes, or if you want to use contrasting fabric, you’ll need approximately ¼ yard.
Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)
Top
Skirt
Above Knee
Knee
Tea
XXS – XL
1.50
1.50
1.75
2.00
XXL – 5L
1.50
2.25
2.50
2.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1x Zipper – 4 inch for sizes 0-12 months, 5 inch for sizes 12-24 months, 6 inch for sizes 2-12 years, and 8 inch for ladies sizes.
- Interfacing – This is just for the waistband piece. ¼ yard will more than suffice.
- 1-2 x buttons or snaps (x1 for the regular waist or x2 for the high waist), ½ inch wide.
- Thread to match
- OPTIONAL – Double sided fusible tape to help insert the zipper
- OPTIONAL – Fray check for when finishing buttonholes
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, and optional serger/overlocker.