Penelope Pencil Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

Interfacing

If you are sewing the Bishop Sleeve Bodice or the Overlay Bodice options, you will need to apply interfacing to the Sleeve Cuffs.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to the Cuffs.

NOTE – If you are using sheer fabric you may wish to use the interfaced Cuff on the outside of the blouse, as this will hide your stitching and seam allowances.

Stay Stitching

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline, armscye, and waist are likely to stretch and then your dress won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.

Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the neckline and waist on the main and lining pieces of the Front Bodice and Back Bodice. Starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the armscye on the main and lining pieces of the Front Bodice and Back Bodice. Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder, in the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the Back Skirt and Front Skirt pieces, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

If you are sewing the overlay option, stay stitch the Overlay Fronts and Back along the neckline, armscye and the shoulder seam, in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use that. Alternatively, here is how we like to do it.

Lay the Main Front Bodice wrong side up on your ironing board. 

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. 

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart in between the corner point using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Remove the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With the right sides together, fold the fabric down the centerline of the dart and press.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you finish stitching. Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.

Press the dart towards the waist.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other bust dart on the Main Front Bodice and the two waist darts, pressing these to the side seam.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for both bust and waist darts on the Front Bodice Lining, the waist darts on the Main Back Bodice, Back Bodice Lining, Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces.

If you are sewing the Bishop Sleeve Bodice, skip to step 3. For the Overlay Bodice option, skip to step 4.

With the right sides together, pin one of the Back Bodice pieces to the Front Bodice, along the shoulder seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the other shoulder seam, and to stitch the shoulder seams of the Front and Back Bodice Lining pieces together.

With the right sides together, pin the Main Bodice to the Lining. Starting at the center back, pin together along the neckline and down the other side of the back.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve, as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Open the Bodice out so it is lying flat, wrong sides facing up. Press the seam allowance towards the Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the lining along the neckline, approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and bodice piece join.

NOTE – Understitching will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice. The next step shows what this looks like.

Flip the Bodice Lining over the Main Bodice, so that the wrong sides are together. Press along the neckline.

Flip the Bodice Lining back over the Main Bodice. With the right sides together, pin along the armscye.

NOTE – Since you have understitched the neckline, the neckline seam will roll back toward the Lining.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

Repeat steps 2.11 to 2.13 for the other armscye.

Turn the Bodice right side out by pulling the Back Bodice through each shoulder. 

Repeat for the other side.

Press the Bodice flat along the armscyes.

Pin the side seam together by matching the bottom of the armscye on the Front Bodice to the bottom of the armscye on the Back Bodice. With the right sides together, pin the Main Front Bodice to the Main Back Bodice at the side seam, and the Front Bodice Lining to the Back Bodice Lining. You will be creating one side seam to stitch.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 2.16 to 2.18 for the other side seam.

If you are sewing the Overlay Bodice option, skip to step 4.

With the right sides together, pin one of the Back Bodice pieces to the Front Bodice, along the shoulder seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other shoulder seam, and to stitch the shoulder seams of the Front and Back Bodice Lining pieces together.

With the right sides together, pin the Main Bodice to the Lining. Starting at the center back, pin together along the neckline and down the other side of the back

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve, as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Open the Bodice out so it is lying flat, wrong sides facing up. Press the seam allowance towards the Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the lining along the neckline, approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and bodice piece join.

NOTE – Understitching will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice. The next step shows what this looks like.

Flip the Bodice Lining over the Main Bodice, so that the wrong sides are together. Press along the neckline.

Turn the Bodice so that it is wrong sides out again. Pin the Main Bodice together along one of the side seams.

NOTE – Make sure that the Lining is out of the way. You are only pinning the Main Front Bodice to the Main Back Bodice at the side seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.12 to 3.14 for the other side seam of the Main Bodice. 

Repeat steps 3.12 to 3.14 to sew the Bodice Lining side seams.

If you are sewing the Sleeveless option, skip to step 5.

You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches between the marks on the sleeve armscye.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take your Sleeve and stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have! 

We are going to do French seams to stitch the Sleeve together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Sleeve together along the long edges.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will lso suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French eam).

Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Repeat steps 3.15 to 3.22 for the other Sleeve.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.

Insert the Sleeve into the Main Bodice, wrong sides together, matching the side seams.

Pin the Sleeve to the Main Bodice, adjusting the gathers as needed.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Remove the gathering stitches.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

Press the seam allowance toward the Bodice.

With wrong side facing up, press the Bodice Lining under ½ inch along the armscye.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Lining to the Main Bodice at the armscye. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through the bodice just inside the seam allowance. Pull the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the folded edge of the Lining, to create a stitch that is about ⅛ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Repeat steps 3.25 to 3.30 to attach the other Sleeve.

You will be sewing the Rouleau Loops for the Sleeve Cuff. If you are using store bought bias binding skip to step 3.36.

Take the fabric strip you cut for the Rouleau Loops and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn right side out and press.

There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.

METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.

Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

Cut the long strip (or bias binding) every 2.25 inches until you have ten pieces – five pieces per cuff.

The finished size of each Loop should be ¼ inch wide by 2.25 inches long.

Take the Loops you made in steps 3.31 to 3.35 and fold each Loop in half. You will be adding your Loops to the Outer Cuff.

Starting 1 inch from the bottom of the Cuff, matching the raw edges, pin your first Loop in place. Space the Loops evenly and pin in place.

NOTE – Check the Loops aren’t sitting above the marking shown with a pin here).

Baste the Loops to the Cuff using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Take a matching Cuff Lining piece and press the top long edge ½ inch to the wrong side.

With the right sides together, pin the Outer Cuff to the Cuff lining. Starting at the marking on one side, pin down the side seam, along the bottom edge and up the other side seam, stopping at the opposite marking.

NOTE – Check your Loops are still correctly in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam.

Clip the bottom corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Cuff right side out and press the seams.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Turn the Cuff inside out. Take the top Cuff (facing you) and fold it down at the markings. 

Take the top left of the bottom Cuff piece (not folded down) and fold it in half width ways, meeting the right hand side. Pin together.

NOTE – You will need to unfold the top pressed edge from step 3.38 so that you are able to sew these seams together.

NOTE – Check that the folded down cuff from step 3.43 is out of the way.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You will be stitching from the top edge of the Cuff down to the existing stitching from step 3.40. 

Turn the Cuff right sides out.

Repeat steps 3.44 to 3.45 to stitch the side of the other Cuff together. 

NOTE – Make sure that the othe layers of the Cuff are folded down and out of the way.

Turn the Cuff wrong side out and fold the Cuff (with the folded edge) down and out of the way. Place pins at the quarter points of the raw edges of the Cuff.

TIP – Use a different color pin to mark the seam where the Loops are. We have used a black pin.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches all around the bottom edge of the Sleeve. Do not gather the stitches yet, you will do that in step 3.51.

Place a pin at the quarter points of the Sleeve.

TIP – Place the same color pin that you used in the previous step to mark where you plan to put the Loops. We have used a black pin.

NOTE – Having your Loops on the outside will give a real vintage look. To do this, line the notch at the top of the Cuff to the Sleeve side seam. Check that you have the correct Cuff on the correct Sleeve.

For a more modern look, you could sew the Loops on the inside of the Sleeve. You will need to match your Cuff seam above the Loops to the Sleeve side seam.

You will be inserting the Sleeve into the Cuff. With the sewn end of the Cuff facing the bottom of the Sleeve, place the Sleeve inside the Cuff, right sides together. Match up the quarter points and pin the Cuff to the Sleeve.

TIP – Make sure to line up the matching pins where the Loops should be. 

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches on the Sleeve until the quarter points match up.

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches.

Turn the Sleeve inside out. 

Fold the unstitched edge of the Cuff up and over the seam allowance from step 3.52, enclosing the seam allowance. Pin.

Stitch the Cuff to the Sleeve using a slipstitch, following what you did in steps 3.27 to 3.29.

Try the Bodice on to determine where you would like your buttons to sit on the Sleeve Cuff. Sew the buttons to the Cuff. 

TIP – You can tighten or loosen the Cuff by moving your buttons closer or further from the edge.

Repeat steps 3.36 to 3.54 for the other Sleeve. Remember to attach the Loops to the opposite side (mirror cuff) in step 3.36.

NOTE – The Materials section in this pattern recommends very light weight fabrics such as tulle or chiffon for the Overlay. These are very hard to photograph, so to ensure the instruction photos are clear and easy for you to see, we have used a quilting cotton. Please see the Materials section for fabrics we would recommend.

With the right sides together, pin one of the Back Bodice pieces to the Front Bodice, along the shoulder seam.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other shoulder seam, and to stitch the shoulder seams of the Front and Back Bodice Lining pieces together.

We are going to do French seams to stitch the Overlay Front and Back together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Front Overlay and one of the Back Overlay pieces together along the shoulder seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Repeat steps 4.5 to 4.10 for the other shoulder seam.

Lay the Main Bodice right side up, and place the Overlay on top of it, also right side up. 

Next place the Bodice Lining with the right side facing down. The Overlay is now sandwiched in between the Main Bodice and Bodice Lining.

Pin all three layers together starting at the center back, around the neckline and down to the other center back.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve, as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Flip the Bodice Lining up so they are lying flat. Press the seam allowance towards the Lining.

Understitch the seam allowance to the lining along the neckline, approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and bodice piece join.

NOTE – Understitching will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice. The next step shows what this looks like.

Flip the Lining over so that the wrong sides are together and press.

Open the Bodice out so that the Main Bodice, Overlay and Bodice Lining are all right side up. Roll the Overlay up toward the shoulder seam. Continue rolling until you can pin the armscye of the Main Bodice to the armscye of the Bodice Lining, with the rolled-up Overlay in between them.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve, as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Reach in between the main bodice and bodice lining and take hold of the overlay. Pull the overlay until the bodice is right side out.

Press the seam.

Repeat steps 4.18 to 4.21 for the other armscye.

Pin the side seam together by matching the bottom of the armscye on the Front Bodice to the bottom of the armscye on the Back Bodice. With the right sides together, pin the Main Front Bodice to the Main Back Bodice at the side seam, and the Front Bodice Lining to the Back Bodice Lining. You will be creating one side seam to stitch.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 4.23 to 4.25 for the other side seam.

Stitch the seam of the Overlay using a French seam.

Follow the same steps as you did for steps 4.5 to 4.10. Again, start with wrong sides together and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.

Repeat step 4.27 for the other sleeve.

Press along edge of the Overlay Cuff ½ inch to the wrong side.

Unfold the seam you pressed in step 4.29. Fold the Overlay Cuff in half, right sides together, matching the short edges and pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 4.29 to 4.32 for the other Overlay Cuff.

You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches at the bottom edge of the Sleeve.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take your Sleeve and stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have! 

Place pins at the quarter points of the overlay sleeve.

Place pins at the quarter points of the overlay cuff on the unfolded edge.

Insert the overlay sleeve into the overlay cuff, right sides together. Match the cuff seam to the underarm seam and match the quarter points. Pin.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the sleeve stitches until the quarter points match up.

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches.

Turn the overlay sleeve inside out. 

Fold the cuff up and over the seam allowance from step 4.39, enclosing the seam allowance. Pin.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the cuff to the sleeve. If you don’t know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through the sleeve just inside the seam allowance. Pull the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the folded edge of the cuff, to create a stitch that is about ⅛ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We have left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

OPTIONAL – You can add mock buttons to the cuff. Try the bodice on and mark the cuff where you would like the buttons to sit. Sew the buttons to the cuff.

NOTE – The buttons are decorative and not functional.

Repeat steps 4.29 to 4.44 for the other Overlay Sleeve and Overlay Cuff.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the bottom edge of the overlay bodice, stopping at the pattern markings at the center back. This will make it easier to install the invisible zipper.

Pin the overlay to the main bodice at the side seams, at the center back seams and at the marks where you stopped sewing the gathering stitch. 

Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches. 

Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers.

Baste the overlay bodice to the main bodice at the waist, keeping the bodice lining out of the way, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – This one piece will now be treated as the main bodice.

Do not remove the gathering stitches. You will remove those in step 6.2.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place a Front Skirt and Back Skirt, right sides together. Pin along the side seam and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Back Skirt to the other side of the Front Skirt. Press the seams to the back. Skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to do French seams to stitch the Skirt pieces together. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin a Back Skirt to the Front Skirt along the side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Press the seam to the back. 

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 to sew the other Back Skirt to the other side seam of the Front Skirt.

NOTE – You will be leaving the center back seam of the skirt open. This will be finished in later steps.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Main Bodice and the Skirt right sides together and pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the Main Bodice to the top edge of the Skirt, matching the Bodice side seams to the Skirt side seams and Bodice darts to Skirt darts.

NOTE – If you have sewn the Overlay option, it will be sandwiched between the Main Bodice and the Skirt. Check that the gathered edge has been caught in between both layers.

Stitch using a ½ seam allowance.

NOTE – If you have sewn the Overlay option, remove the gathering stitches. Trim the seam allowance of the overlay piece to prevent bulk at the seam.

Press the Skirt seam allowance up towards the Bodice.

Press the Bodice Lining ½ inch to the wrong side, along the bottom edge.

We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the dress.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished Bodice will be too big. To help with this, we have made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here.

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip your invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

When the zipper is closed the teeth of the zipper curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.

With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance along the center back seam, starting at the Bodice Lining, along the Main Bodice and down the Skirt.

NOTE – If you have sewn the Overlay option you will be pressing both the Main Bodice and Overlay seam allowance. 

With your dress right sides facing up, flip your Bodice Lining up and out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zipper to the Main Bodice and Overlay if sewn (not the Bodice Lining) and the Skirt.

Unfold the seam allowance. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your dress), line up the zipper with the top of the Main Bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the Main Bodice and Lining join. Pin in place.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zipper on the correct side of the dress, and that they are facing right sides together. 

Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 16 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can. 

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.

Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zipper can close easily.

Place a pin in the zipper tape where the bodice meets the skirt and at the end of the zipper where the stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.

Open the zipper. Repeat steps 7.3 and 7.4 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

TIP – Check you are able to close the zipper before moving onto the next step.

Trim the excess of the top of the zipper. Be careful not to cut the metal stopper or below as you won’t be able to close the zipper.

Flip your Bodice Lining back down over the Main Bodice so right sides are facing together. You will be sandwiching the zipper between the Main Bodice and the Bodice Lining. 

Pin.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge. Remember to keep the waist seam allowance of the Bodice Lining folded up and check that the Skirt waist seam allowance is folded up and caught between the Main Bodice and the Bodice Lining. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth.

Repeat for the opposite side of the Bodice.

Turn the Bodice Lining over to the inside of your dress. The raw edge of your Bodice Lining seams are now enclosed.

You’ll now finish the Skirt seam allowance of the zipper.

With the dress wrong sides facing up and the zipper open, take the seam allowance of the fabric (not the zipper) and fold it down under itself so the raw edge meets the sewn seam. Pin to the zipper tape and press.

TIP – This is a very narrow section and can be tricky. If you have them, use dressmaker’s pins/glass head pins (not plastic head pins). You can press over these types of pins which will make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching as close to the folded edge as possible.

Repeat steps 7.10 to 7.11 for the other side of the Skirt zipper.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Skirt center back seam right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back as close to the zipper as you can. Then, skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to do a French seam to stitch the skirt center back seam together below the zipper. It’s slightly different to the previous French seam as you must first detach the seam allowance from the zipper. Follow along below.

Turn your dress wrong sides out. Clip into the center back Skirt seam allowance, just under the zipper stitching. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

TIP – Aim to cut approx. ⅛ inch below the zipper stitching and approximately ⅛ inch away from the seam. If you snip too far, you will have a hole so err on the side of caution. You can always come back and snip a little more if you find your seam isn’t lying flat.

Turn the dress right side out. Pin the center back seam together (wrong sides together).

NOTE – You are only pinning the center back seam not the kick pleat.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

Turn wrong side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. 

TIP – You want to start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. Use your zipper foot to get really close. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper downwards while wearing the finished garment.

Lay your dress wrong side facing up.

Fold the seam allowance of the Bodice Lining under and pin, catching the Skirt raw edges. 

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Bodice Lining to the Skirt seam allowance. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Skirt to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We have left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the edge of the kick pleat. Then turn under ½ inch, press, and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the kick pleat. Then skip to step 10.7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Fold the edge of the kick pleat ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Fold another ¼ inch, press and pin. 

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat 10.1 to 10.3 for the other side of the kick pleat.

Pin the kick pleat right sides together.

Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. The basting stitch should go straight down from the center back seam stitching line.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of your center back seam until you reach the top of your basting stitches. Pivot and sew across the top of the kick pleat. Remember to back stitch at the start and end of your stitching.

With the wrong side of the Skirt facing up, fold the kick pleat to the right and press.

You will now be basting the top of your kick pleat to the Skirt. Baste directly on top of the stitching from step 10.7. 

Make sure that the front of the Skirt is moved out of the way, and you are only sewing through the back of the Skirt.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

NOTE – These basting stitches will be used as a guide when you sew from the right side in the next step.

From the right side of the skirt, stitch directly over the basting stitches, created in step 10.9, across the top of the kick pleat. 

Remove all your basting stitches.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem edge. Then turn under 1 inch, press, and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Open out the kick pleat and then fold the hem of the Skirt to the wrong side ½ inch and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch along the folded edge.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your vintage pencil dress a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Fold the kick pleat back and use a slipstitch to sew the kick pleat to the hem. Follow the same steps as you did for steps 9.2 to 9.5.