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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Puffer Coat
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Sew yourself a stylish and warm custom Puffer Coat to keep yourself warm all season long! This loose-fitting puffer coat features a raglan sleeve with rib cuffs, a detachable three-piece hood, and a high collar to keep your chin warm on a blustery day. Plus there are plenty of pocket options to keep your hands warm, optional patch pockets, side seam pockets, and inner pockets. The coat is closed with an open-ended zipper and hidden snaps.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- • Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- • Picking your size – If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct chest measurement. That way, the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade in or out to the correct waist and hip sizes. Before selecting a size, please also review the note below about cup sizes.
- o You may notice on some pattern pieces that there is a slight shape difference between sizes. This is to ensure that, with such a wide size range, the pattern can still offer a great fit. Just print the size(s) you require and blend by drawing a smooth curve from one size to another. You’ll still need to add any necessary personal adjustments such as a full bust adjustment, bicep adjustment, and/or adjust for height.
- • Bust adjustment – Ladies sizes are designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup), If your bust size is above a D cup, you still may not need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) as this is loose fitting. Once you’ve sewn your muslin, if you feel you need more room at the bust, follow this tutorial.
- • Height adjustment – Ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you may wish to adjust the bodice, button stand and sleeves (by the same amount). The snap placement will need to be adjusted if you adjust the bodice and button stand.
- o Follow this tutorial to adjust the bodice
- o As this pattern has a raglan sleeve you will need to follow this tutorial to adjust the sleeve
- • Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you shouldn’t need to make any adjustments. Once you’ve made your muslin, if you feel you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller follow this tutorial.
- • Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin first. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment to do this. I would recommend the following to muslin this coat:
- o Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final main fabric you plan to use.
- o Cut out the front, back, collar, and sleeve pieces. Label each with tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen
- o Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- o Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- o If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- o Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- o Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sew your final garment.
- o Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- • If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Recommended fabrics are mid weight wovens. Not suitable for knit/stretch fabrics.
- If you would like your coat to be showerproof, use fabrics such as PUL, nylon, ripstop, taslan nylon, or other waterproof breathable fabrics.
- You can also treat most woven fabrics (such as cotton or quilting cotton) with a waterproof fabric protector.
- I do not recommend laminated cotton; it will not be breathable and may cause sweating and/or overheating.
- Your exterior fabric does not need to be quilted. We will quilt it using your interlining in step 1. Alternatively, if you wish to use pre-quilted fabric, any medium weight pre-quilted fabric up to a thickness of ¾ inch will work. Just skip step 1 and do not use interlining.
- Recommended fabric is 8 oz or 12 oz polyester batting.
- 8 oz batting is ¾ inch thick, creating a slightly less puffy look
- 12 oz batting is 1 inch thick and will create a traditional puffer coat style. It is warm but not tight fitting.
- The finished garment measurements were all worked out using an 12 oz polyester batting.
- You could also use flannel or polyester apparel lining. Bamboo batting is also suitable but make sure to prewash it as many brands are known to shrink.
- You could skip the interlining. If you do this, your coat will have a looser fit and will not have the quilted look.
- Not suitable for knit/stretch fabrics. Must be woven only.
- Recommended fabrics are light to mid weight wovens such as lining fabric, polyester lining. You could also use cotton or quilting cotton for slightly more warmth.
- You could also use thicker fabrics such as flannel or fleece. If your fabric is particularly thick, the coat will fit much more snugly. An alternative is to not use an interlining and just use a thicker lining fabric.
- 1x 40 inch long open ended or separating zipper. An open ended/separating zipper opens fully so that the two sides of the zip separate from each other. It can be a plain separating zipper, or a chunky separating zipper.
- NOTE – The zipper needs to be this length. As it is an open ended/separating zipper, you cannot trim it to length. If you are adjusting for height, you will also need to re-calculate the length of your zipper. Calculate the number of inches you are adjusting for, add/remove this from the zipper length and round it down to an even number. For example if you are adding in 3 inches, this makes the length of zipper needed 43 inches, round it down to 42 inches.
- ⅜ – ¾ inch wide Snaps – If you are using heavier weight fabrics, you will need more heavy weight or metal snaps. For thinner fabrics, you can use either plastic or metal snaps:
- Coat x9
- OPTIONAL Hood x4
- Ribbing for the Cuffs – approximately 0.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Ribbings can have different stretch recovery. You may need to pre steam it before you cut it.
- Thread to match
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Lining – Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Hem Facing- Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interlining cut 1 on fold
- Back Lining – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Back Hem Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeve Lining – Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Cuff – Ribbing cut 2
- Cuff Facing – Fabric cut 2
- OPTIONAL Front Patch Pocket – Fabric cut 4
- OPTIONAL Side Seam Pocket – Lining cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
- OPTIONAL Inside Pocket – Lining cut 1
- Collar – Fabric cut 2, Interlining cut 1
- OPTIONAL Hood:
-
- Hood Band – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, Interlining cut 1
- Hood Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interlining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Button Stand – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1
- TIP – Use an 8 or 12 oz Interlining for the Button Stand.
- OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – Lining cut 1
- If you are using a heavy fabric, and/or leather for the outer or contrast of the coat, make sure to change your needle to a fresh new needle. It really does make a difference and will help pierce the fabric easily as you sew. It can also help stop threads from bunching up underneath as you sew because the needle cleanly ‘slices’ the fabric.
- Use a speciality needle. There are leather and thick fabric needles out there, and many machines come with them. They might look the same at first glance, but they are shaped differently and help cut through the fabric easily.
- Heavy, thick, or speciality fabrics can “slip” under your presser foot quite easily. They can sometimes move around and make sewing quite difficult. The presser foot can slip off the fabric, your machine might get stuck sewing in one place and not want to get traction & move forwards, and/or the thread might bunch up under the fabric and make knots. If you find any of these problems happening, change your presser foot to a walking foot if you have one. If you don’t have one, try a Teflon coated foot or a zipper foot. The different base and shape can help control the fabric better.
- If you don’t have a walking foot, or Teflon coated presser foot, alternatively, try sewing with tissue paper layered between your fabric and your presser foot. It’ll help with traction, so you can sew evenly and then you’ll be able to tear the tissue paper off after sewing.
- For very thick fabrics, lengthen your stitch length slightly.
- Practice on a scrap of your fabric first to check you are happy with your sewing machine settings.
- Use clips rather than pins. Pins sometimes leave marks and holes on thicker/specialty fabrics. Test this on a scrap before sewing or cutting out. If it does, use pattern weights to hold the pattern pieces in place while you cut out, and use clips to hold your fabric together instead of pins while you sew.
- To ensure a professional and polished look, make sure to press your seams after each step. Always test on a scrap of fabric first to find out the best temperature for your fabric. You may find that the iron leaves a mark on many speciality fabrics (such as wool or faux leather). With some waterproof fabrics it may melt the fabric at high heats. To help, use low heats and try using a pressing cloth dampen with water or steam and press on and off until your cloth is dry. NOTE – Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric. A tailor ham or roll can also help preserving your fabric because its rounded shape allows you to put pressure with the iron only on the seam.
- You might want to use a stronger thread, especially when top stitching.
- Go slowly. It really does help!
Project OverviewPuffer Coat Sewing Pattern
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This loose fitting puffer coat finishes between the knee and mid calf. It has a raglan sleeve with rib cuffs to keep the sleeves snug at the wrist. The collar sits high enough that when closed it’s perfect to tuck your chin in on a blustery day. The optional detachable three piece hood will keep you warm and dry in the winter months. Add optional front patch pockets, side seam pockets and an inner pocket. The front has an open ended zipper with hidden snaps to keep the coat closed securely at the front.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Bicep
Sleeve length
Center back to hem
Hem circum
ference
XXS
44.0
45.0
52.0
17.0
28.7
40.0
52.0
XS
46.0
47.0
54.0
17.7
29.0
40.2
54.0
S
48.0
48.0
56.0
18.6
29.1
40.5
56.0
M
50.0
50.0
58.0
19.5
29.2
40.6
58.0
L
52.0
52.0
60.0
20.3
29.3
41.0
60.0
XL
55.0
55.0
63.0
21.2
29.5
41.2
63.0
XXL
58.0
58.0
66.0
22.1
29.7
41.5
66.0
3XL
61.0
62.0
69.0
23.0
30.0
42.0
69.0
4XL
64.0
66.0
72.0
24.0
30.1
42.3
72.0
5XL
67.0
70.0
75.0
25.1
30.3
42.6
75.0
Fitting NotesThis coat is very loose fitting, fitting straight from the chest, over the waist and hips down to the hem. The raglan sleeve is oversized. It finishes between the knee and mid-calf. The optional hood is oversized with a band down the center, keeping your head covered while wearing a winter hat or a bun in your hair. This is not a fitted coat; it is meant to be worn over layers.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – This is the exterior fabric that you will see on the finished garment.
Interlining – This is the fabric that goes in between the exterior and lining. It will be quilted to the exterior fabric in step 1 and will not be seen in the final garment. It gives the vest insulation and it’s ‘puffed’ look.
Lining – This is the fabric which goes on the very inside of the coat. You will not see this fabric unless the coat is open.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat OPTIONAL Hood Main Lining Interlining Main Lining Interlining XXS – XS 3.75 2.50 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 S – M 3.75 2.75 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 L 4.00 2.75 4.00 0.50 0.50 0.50 XL – XXL 4.25 3.00 4.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 3XL 4.50 3.00 4.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 4XL 4.75 3.25 4.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 5XL 4.75 3.75 4.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat OPTIONAL Hood Main Lining Interlining Main Lining Interlining XXS – XS 3.00 2.00 3.00 0.50 0.50 0.50 S – M 3.25 2.00 3.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 L – XL 3.25 2.25 3.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 XXL 3.50 2.25 3.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 3XL 3.50 2.75 3.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 4XL – 5XL 3.75 2.75 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, zipper foot, and tailors chalk/washable fabric pen. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
OPTIONAL Coat Hood Front Patch Pockets Side Seam Pocket Inside Pocket XXS – S 3-14, 16-23, 25-42, 45-58, 60-84 22-25, 43-44, 58-59 86-87 68-69 2 M – 4XL 3-23, 25-42, 45-58, 60-85 22-25, 43-44, 58-59 86-87 68-69 2 5XL 2-23, 25-42, 45-58, 60-85 22-25, 43-44, 58-59 86-87 68-69 2 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
OPTIONAL Coat Hood Front Patch Pockets Side Seam Pocket Inside Pocket XXS – M 3-23, 25-39, 41-42, 44-66, 68-71, 73-83 22-25, 70-72, 85-87 83-84 66-67 2 L – XXL 3-23, 25-42, 44-66, 68-71, 73-83 22-25, 70-72, 85-87 83-84 66-67 2 3XL – 4XL 2-23, 25-42, 44-66, 68-71, 73-83 22-25, 70-72, 85-87 83-84 66-67 2 5XL 2-23, 25-66, 68-71, 73-83 22-25, 70-72, 85-87 83-84 66-67 2 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Front Patch Pocket (Fabric cut 4) OPTIONAL Inside Pocket (Lining cut 1) Cuff (Ribbing cut 2) Cuff Facing (Fabric cut 2) OPTIONAL Hood: Hood Band (Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1, OPTIONAL Interlining cut 1) OPTIONAL Hanging Loop
(Lining cut 1)
Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length XXS 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 9.80 5.20 12.00 4.00 5.00 25.50 3.00 2.00 XS 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 10.10 5.20 12.50 4.00 5.00 26.00 3.00 2.00 S 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 10.40 5.20 13.00 4.00 5.00 26.20 3.00 2.00 M 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 10.70 5.20 13.20 4.00 5.00 26.50 3.00 2.00 L 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.00 5.20 13.60 4.00 5.00 27.00 3.00 2.00 XL 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.40 5.20 14.10 4.00 5.00 27.20 3.00 2.00 XXL 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.70 5.20 14.50 4.00 5.00 27.50 3.00 2.00 3XL 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.70 5.20 14.50 4.00 5.00 27.70 3.00 2.00 4XL 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.70 5.20 14.50 4.00 5.00 28.00 3.00 2.00 5XL 9.25 12.00 5.10 7.00 11.70 5.20 14.50 4.00 5.00 28.30 3.00 2.00 Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Specialty Fabrics
Good luck & have fun!
Sewing with speciality fabrics can be really fun and rewarding (and just as easy as normal fabrics) once you’ve got your sewing machine set up how you want it.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Staystitch the Front Facing, Back Lining, Sleeve Lining, Front Outer, Back Outer, and Sleeve Outer pieces.
- QUILTING – Quilt 2x Main Fronts, 1x Main Back and 2x Main Sleeves.
- OPTIONAL FRONT PATCH POCKETS – Place two Front Patch Pockets right sides together. Pin. Stitch leaving a gap for turning. Clip. Turn. Lay Main Front right side up. Place Front Patch Pocket on pattern markings. Pin sides and bottom. Topstitch. Repeat for second Front Patch Pocket on the other Main Front.
- OPTIONAL SIDE SEAM POCKETS – Lay a Main Front right side up. Place a Side Seam Pocket at the pattern marking right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Flip Side Seam Pocket over. Press. Repeat with second Main Front and Side Seam Pocket. Lay Main Back right side facing up. Place mirror image Side Seam Pocket at pattern marking, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Flip Side Seam Pocket over. Press. Repeat to attach second Side Seam Pocket to opposite side of Main Back.
- SLEEVES – Attach snaps to Main Front. Place Main Sleeve right sides together onto Main Front. Pin. Stitch. Press. Lay Main Back right side up. Place back of Main Sleeve onto curved edge of Main Back right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat to attach the other Sleeve.
- MAIN COLLAR – Place Interlining Collar onto wrong side of Collar. Pin. Baste. Lay Main Bodice right sides up. Find and mark center of Main Back and Main Collar. Match centers. Pin. Pin each end to the end of the Main Front. Ease together at seam allowance. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL HOOD – Add male snaps to pattern markings on Collar.
- ZIPPER – Lay Main Front right side facing up. Place zipper right side down, matching the right side of the zipper tape to raw edge of Main Front. Pin. Stitch. Repeat to stitch other side of zipper to other side of Main Front.
- COLLAR LINING – Find and mark the center of the second Collar and Main Collar. Place Collar right sides together matching centers. Pin. Continue pinning at seam allowance. Stitch. Turn.
- LINING – OPTIONAL INSIDE POCKET: Fold sides and bottom edge of the Inside Pocket to wrong side by ¼ inch. Press. Fold the edges by another ¼ inch. Press. Repeat on the top edge. Topstitch. Lay Front right side up. Place Inner Pocket onto pattern markings right side up. Pin sides and bottom. Topstitch. Place Front Lining and Front Facing right sides together matching princess seam. Match bottom edge of Front Lining to pattern marking on Front Facing. Pin. Starting at the top, stitch. Stop ½ inch before bottom. Clip. Press seam open. Repeat to attach other Front Lining and Front Facing together. Lay Front Lining right side up. Place a Sleeve Lining onto Front Lining, right side together, pin along curved edge. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Lay Back Lining right side facing up. Align other side of Sleeve Lining with curved edge of Back Lining right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat with the other Sleeve. OPTIONAL: Fold your hanging loop piece like double fold bias tape and topstitch closed. Align each end of loop ½ inch from center back, matching raw edges. Sew in place with ¼ inch seam allowance. Lay Back Lining right side up. Place Back Hem Facing along bottom edge right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Lay Front Lining right side up. Place Front Hem Facing onto bottom edge Front Lining, right sides together, match seams. Move Front Facing out of the way. Pin. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Lay Front Lining right side up. Fold Front Facing over, right sides together. Pin Front Hem Facing to the Front Facing. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other Front Hem Facing and Front Lining pieces.
- ATTACH LINING TO COLLAR – Find and mark the center of the back neckline of Bodice Lining and Collar Lining. Place Bodice Lining onto the Collar Lining right sides together matching centers. Pin. Stitch. Clip. Press.
- ZIPPER – Open zipper. Turn Lining right side out and Main wrong side out. Place Lining inside coat. Place Front Lining and Main Front together at center front. Sandwich zipper in between. Pin from top of Collar down to hem. Repeat on other side. Stitch.
- MAIN SIDE SEAM – Move Lining out of the way. Place Main Front onto Main Back right sides together along the side seam and Sleeve. OPTIONAL SIDE SEAM POCKETS – Pin Pockets together. Stitch. Press. Repeat on other side.
- LINING SIDE SEAM – Place Lining Front to Lining Back right sides together along the side seam and Sleeve. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat on the other side, leaving a 6-inch gap for turning on the side seam. Stitch. Press.
- FINISHING COLLAR – Flip coat right side out. Pin the Collar bottom seams together. Stitch. Turn coat right side out. Press.
- RIB CUFF – Fold Cuff in half widthwise right sides together. Pin. Check fit of Cuff, adjust width as necessary. Stitch. Press. Fold Cuff in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Fold Cuff Facing in half widthwise right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Find and mark quarter points of Cuff. Repeat with Cuff Facing. Place Cuff Facing over Cuff matching raw edge of Cuff to top edge of Cuff Facing, and quarter points. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for second Cuff and Cuff Facing.
- FINISHING SLEEVES – With Sleeve Lining right side out, place Cuff right sides together over Sleeve Lining. Pin. Stitch. Pull Sleeve Lining wrong side out. Pull Outer Sleeve wrong side out, pin Cuff Facing to Outer Sleeve right sides together. Stitch. Turn Sleeve right side out. Repeat with the other Sleeve.
- HEM – Place Outer bottom of coat right sides together with the Coat Facing matching the hem. Pin. Stitch. Press seam open. Press. Pull the coat right side out through the gap in the Lining. Press. Stitch the gap closed with a ladder stitch.
- BUTTON STAND – Attach female snaps to Button Stand at pattern markings. OPTIONAL INTERLINING – Add to wrong side of fabric. Fold Button Stand right sides together. Pin short, pointed edge, and long straight edge. Stitch. Clip corners. Turn. Press. Fold short flat edge ½ inch into Button Stand. Press. Use ladder stitch to close short edge.
- ATTACHING THE BUTTON STAND – Pin Button Stand to right as worn Front of coat 1 inch from zipper finished edge. Align short flat edge at bottom edge of coat. Pin. Pin along coat to top edge. Topstitch. Fold top pointed edge of Button Stand over Collar to the back. Pin. Topstitch.
- OPTIONAL LADIES HOOD – Pin Interlining to wrong side of each hood piece and hood band. Baste. Pin Hood Band to a Hood piece. Stitch. Clip. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other side of Hood. Repeat for Hood Lining pieces. Pin Main Hood and Hood Lining right sides together. Pin. Stitch, leaving a small gap for turning. Turn. Press. Use a ladder stitch to close the gap. OPTIONAL: Topstitch. Use pattern markings, attach female snaps.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Stay stitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline and armscye are likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the Front Facing pieces at the neckline. Starting at the center, stitch towards each side in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the neckline and armscye on both Main Front pieces and the Main Back. Starting at the middle of the neckline, stitch toward the side in the direction of the arrows.
Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder in the direction of the arrows.
Repeat staystitching the neckline and armscyes on the Back Lining.
Repeat staystitching the armscyes on both Front Lining pieces.
Staystitch the neckline and armscye on both Main Sleeve and Sleeve Lining pieces. Starting at the middle of the neckline, stitch toward the side in the direction of the arrows.
Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Quilting1.0If you are not using Interlining, skip to step 2 if you are adding OPTIONAL Front Patch Pocket, or Step 3 if you are adding OPTIONAL Side Seam Pocket, or Step 4 for Sleeves.
If you purchased pre quilted main fabric or are using an Interlining but you do not wish to quilt it, you can stitch your Interlining to your main fabric all the way around each piece, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This means your stitching will be within the seam allowance and not visible on the main of the garment. Skip to step 2
If you are quilting your fabric, continue below.
We are going to quilt our outer layer of fabric by stitching the Interlining to the main fabric for the Outer Front, Outer Back, and Outer Sleeve pieces now.
You can quilt your Interlining to your main fabric using any pattern you like. Below we will show you how to quilt using horizontal stitch lines at a depth of 3 inches but you may use any depth you prefer as long as you keep it consistent across all the pieces. If you prefer, you could stitch using diagonals, diamonds or even a random pattern or free motion embroidery! The sky is the limit. Your design will be visible on the exterior of the garment so make sure you are happy with it before stitching.
Whichever method you use, you will need to lengthen your stitch length. I normally sew at a length of 2.5 so for the quilting I went up to a length of 3. Test this on a scrap of your exterior fabric with some of your interlining now before continuing.
NOTE – We do not recommend using spray basting when quilting this coat.
1.1First, we are going to draw the quilting lines onto your main fabric. You could use a washable fabric pen, or tailors chalk. Test your pen or chalk on a scrap of fabric first to check it does come out as these will be visible on the final garment.
Take your Main Back piece and draw a horizontal line 3 ½ inches from the bottom of the coat all the way across.
Continue drawing further horizontals up the Main Back piece every 3 inches.
NOTE – The first line is ½ inch further up as it includes the hem allowance. From here on, they should be equally spaced.
The number of lines you will have will depend on which size you are doing.
Repeat with the 2x Main Front pieces and 2x Main Sleeve pieces. Make sure to start your lines from the bottom of each pattern piece so they will match at the side seams when we stitch the coat together.
TIP – If you are using a dark fabric or a nylon type fabric that is difficult to draw on, you could mark the start and end point of the lines with pins in your seam allowance either side of the pattern piece. Then use a quilting lever on your presser foot (they sometimes come with your machine and are a metal Z shaped bar that attaches to the back of the shank) to align first with the hem and then with each line to keep you stitching in a straight line. That way you can skip this step and not draw on your fabric.
NOTE – Do not quilt your OPTIONAL Hood pieces. We will attach the interlining to these at step 19.
1.2For each of your pieces to be quilted, pin the Main onto the Interlining, pinning in between the marked quilting lines, not on them, so that they don’t need removing when you are sewing. This ensures that the Interlining and the fabric do not move around while you are quilting.
Your Main fabric and Interlining should both be right sides up, with the main fabric on top.
TIP – If you are using a waterproof or showerproof fabric, check if pins will mark or make holes in your fabric. If they do, instead use clips or pins in the seam allowance only all the way around the pattern piece, as shown here.
1.3Using a longer stitch than normal, stitch along the marked lines.
To make it easier and more accurate to quilt, attach a quilting guide to your presser foot. This ensures the spacing of your stitching is the same.
TIP – To reduce the risk of warping the pattern piece, alternate which side of your pattern piece you start at for each line.
Repeat for each of your pattern pieces to be quilted.
From here on, treat the quilted Main and Interlining as one piece of fabric.
TIP – Make sure you clean the bobbin housing out once you have finished. Small pieces of the Interlining can sometimes get into the bobbin housing and interfere with the operation of your machine.
2 . OPTIONAL Front Patch Pockets2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Front Patch Pocket right sides together. Pin, leaving a 2-inch gap on one side seam for turning. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 2.3.
2.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Place two Front Patch Pocket right sides together. Pin, leaving a 2-inch gap on one side seam for turning.
2.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.3Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
2.4Turn the Front Patch Pocket right side out through the gap. Make sure to get the corners nice and square.
TIP – Use a blunt object such as a chopstick to help push out the entire corner, so you have crisp corners.
Press the pocket flat, making sure the seam allowance for the gap you turned the pocket through is pressed nicely inside of the pocket.
NOTE – You may need to use a pressing cloth while pressing your fabric if you are using a waterproof or high polyester count fabric. Test on a scrap piece of your fabric to avoid damage to your coat and pockets.
2.5Lay a Main Front right side up. Place the Front Patch Pocket on the pattern markings. Pin the sides and bottom.
NOTE – Do not pin the top edge.
2.6Topstitch around your Pocket using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Start at one top corner, going down the side, across the bottom of the Pocket and up the other side.
2.7Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.6 for the second Front Patch Pocket.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Side Seam Pockets, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Side Seam Pockets, skip to step 4.
3 . OPTIONAL Side Seam Pockets3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay a Main Front right side facing up. Place a Side Seam Pocket at the pattern marking, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach a Pocket to the second Main Front and to each side of the Main Back. Skip to step 4.
3.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Lay a Main Front right side facing up. Match the Side Seam Pocket to the Main Front pattern markings, right sides together. Pin.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3Flip the Side Seam Pocket over and press it away from the Main Front.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 with the second Main Front and Side Seam Pocket.
3.5Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place a mirror image Side Seam Pocket at the pattern marking, right sides together. Pin.
3.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.7Flip the Side Seam Pocket over and press it away from the Main Back.
3.8Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 attaching the second Side Seam Pocket onto the opposite side of the Main Back.
NOTE – As each Pocket is attached, check that the Pockets on the Front and Back line up with each other.
4 . Sleeves4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 4.1, then place a Main Sleeve, right sides together, onto a Main Front piece, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge. NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam up towards the Front. Repeat to attach the other side of the Sleeve to the Main Back. Repeat to attach the second Sleeve. Skip to step 5.
4.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Before attaching the Sleeves, you will need to attach the snaps to the Main Front.
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add the male snaps to the pattern markings on the left as worn Main Front.
4.2Place a Main Sleeve, right sides together, onto a Main Front piece, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece.
4.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.4Press the seam allowance open.
4.5Lay the Main Back piece right side facing up. Take the other side of the Main Sleeve and place it onto the curved edge of the Main Back, right sides together. Pin.
4.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.7Press the seam allowance open.
4.8Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.7 to attach the other Sleeve.
5 . Main Collar5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 5.1 to 5.3. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance up towards the Collar. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Hood, skip to step 5.6. Or skip to step 6.
5.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Place the Interlining Collar onto the wrong side of a Collar. Pin along the outer edges.
NOTE – This will be your Main Collar (outer) piece.
5.2Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
5.3Lay the Main Bodice right side facing up. Find and mark the center of the neckline on the Main Back and the bottom of the Main Collar.
Place the Main Collar onto the Main Back, matching centers. Pin.
Pin each end of the Collar to the front edges of the Main Front.
Continue pinning, easing it together at the seam allowance.
5.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.5Press the seam allowance open.
5.6OPTIONAL HOOD – Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add the male snaps to the pattern markings at the bottom of the Collar.
6 . Zipper6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 6.1. Then serge your zipper with the zipper teeth ½ inch from the raw edge. Do not remove the seam allowance. Repeat on the other side. Skip to step 7.
6.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Lay the Main Front (right as worn) right side facing up. Place the zipper right side down, matching the right side of the zipper tape to the raw edge of the Main Front, leaving a ½ inch gap at the top. Pin.
Angle the zipper tape into the seam allowance of the Collar so the end of the zipper tape is away from the seam.
NOTE – Your zipper should run nearly the full length of the Main Front piece, including up into the Collar. It should not go onto the top or bottom ½ inch seam allowance. The gap at the bottom of the zipper will vary by size.
6.2Using a zipper foot on your machine, stitch as close as possible to the zipper all the way along it. You’ll start stitching where the bottom of the zip starts, finishing where the zipper tape turns into the seam allowance up on the Collar.
TIP – Mark the opposite side of the zipper tape where the Collar seam hits. This will help ensure the Collar seams line up.
6.3Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to stitch the other side of the zipper to the other side of the Main Front (left as worn).
NOTE – Open the zipper before attaching it to the other side.
TIP – Check that you can close your zipper correctly before continuing.
7 . Collar Lining7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 7.1 to 7.2. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the Collar wrong sides together and press. Skip to step 8.
7.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Find and mark the center of the second Collar piece and the Main Collar attached in step 5.
Place the Collars right sides together, matching centers. Pin.
7.2Continue pinning together at the seam allowance.
NOTE – Pin along the top edge of the Collar only. Do not pin the sides of the Collar.
7.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.4Turn the Collar so they are wrong sides together, with the batting sandwiched in between, and press the Collar along the top seam.
8 . Lining8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – OPTIONAL INSIDE POCKET – Serge the raw edges of the Inside Pocket. Fold and press the sides and bottom edges to the wrong side by ½ inch. Fold and press the top edge to the wrong side ½ inch. Follow steps 8.4 to 8.7. Starting at the top, serge using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping ½ inch before the end of the Front Lining. Press the seam towards the Front Lining. Repeat. Place a Sleeve Lining, right sides together, onto a Front Lining piece, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge. NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam up towards the Front Lining. Repeat to attach the other side of the Sleeve Lining to the Back Lining. Repeat to attach the second Sleeve Lining. Lay the Back Lining right side up. Skip to step 8.19 to 8.20 for the OPTIONAL Hanging Loop. Place the Back Hem Facing along the bottom edge, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam up to the Back Lining.
Serge one Front Hem Facing to each Front Lining. Then skip to step 8.24.
8.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – If you are adding the OPTIONAL Inside Pocket follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Inside Pocket, skip to step 8.7.
OPTIONAL INSIDE POCKET – Fold the sides and bottom edge of the Inside Pocket to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press.
8.2Fold the edges another ¼ inch, enclosing the raw edges. Press.
8.3Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 on the top edge of the Inside Pocket.
8.4Topstitch close to the folded top edge.
8.5Lay the Front Lining right side up. Place the Inner Pocket onto the pattern markings, right side up. Pin the sides and bottom.
NOTE – Do not pin the top edge.
NOTE – We have shown the Inner Pocket on the right as worn Front Lining. It can be attached to either side.
8.6Topstitch down the side of the Inner pocket, along the bottom and up the other side, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – It may be difficult to stitch through the Inner Pocket. If you find it a struggle, try one of the following: lengthening your stitch, using the handwheel on your sewing machine rather than the foot pedal, using a larger needle or using a wedge to lift the presser foot up before placing the fabric under the presser foot.
8.7Place the Front Lining and the Front Facing, right sides together, matching the curved princess seam.
Match the bottom edge of the Front Lining to the pattern marking on the Front Facing. Pin.
Continue pinning till you reach the princess curve. Ease together at the ½ inch seam allowance, not the raw edges, and continue pinning in place. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means when you sew, the fabric will.
NOTE – Make sure that you have the correct Front Facing to the Correct Front Lining.
NOTE – The Front Lining is shorter than the Front Facing.
8.8Starting at the top, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping ½ inch before the end of the Front Lining.
8.9Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.
8.10Press the seam allowance open.
TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front Lining.
8.11Repeat steps 8.7 to 8.10 to attach the other Front Lining and Front Facing together.
8.12Lay the Front Lining piece right side up.
Place a Sleeve Lining, right sides together, onto a Front Lining, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece.
8.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.14Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open.
8.15Lay the Back Lining piece right side facing up. Take the other side of the Sleeve Lining and place it onto the curved edge of the Back Lining, right sides together. Pin.
8.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.17Press the seam allowance open.
8.18Repeat steps 8.12 to 8.17 with the other Sleeve.
8.19OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – It’s handy to have a little loop to hang your garment on hooks with. If you wish to add one, fold your hanging loop like double fold bias tape, and top stitch it closed. If you don’t wish to do this, skip to step 8.21.
Fold your hanging loop wrong sides together in half along its length. Press.
Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.
Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.
The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.
Top stitch down either edge of the loop to hold in place.
8.20Find and mark the center of the back neckline. Measure ½ inch on either side of the center. Using the Hanging Loop, you created in step 2, pin each end of the Hanging Loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the Hanging Loop is attached by the full seam allowance.
Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.
8.21Lay the Back Lining right side up. Place the Back Hem Facing along the bottom edge, right sides together. Pin.
8.22Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.23Press the seam allowance open.
8.24Lay the Front Lining right side up. Place the Front Hem Facing onto the bottom edge Front Lining, right sides together, matching side seams. Move the bottom of the Front Facing out of the way. Pin.
NOTE – The Front Hem Facing is longer than the Front Lining.
8.25Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.26Press the seam allowance open.
8.27Lay the Front Lining right side up. Fold the Front Facing over, right sides together.
Pin the Front Hem Facing to the Front Facing. It should match nicely and line up at the bottom of the Front Facing.
8.28Stitch from the previous stitch line from step 8.8 to the end of the Front Facing, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.29Press the seam allowance open.
8.30Repeat steps 8.24 to 8.29 for the other Front Hem Facing and Front Lining pieces. This will now be referred to as the Bodice Lining.
9 . Attach Lining to Collar9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 9.1. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press. Skip to step 10.
9.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Find and mark the center of the back neckline of the Bodice Lining and the Collar Lining
Place the Bodice Lining onto the Collar Lining, right sides together, matching centers. Pin.
Pin the ends. Then continue pinning, easing together at the seam allowance.
NOTE – This is the only place where the Main and Lining will be attached.
NOTE – When attaching the Collar Lining, if you have added the Hanging Loop, it will be sandwiched between the Collar and the Back Lining. Check to make sure it is laying correctly and not caught in the seam.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.3Clip along the curve, clipping close to the seam allowance but taking care not to clip into the seam allowance.
9.4Press.
10 . Zipper10.1Open the zipper.
Turn the Lining right side out, and the Main wrong side out.
Place the Lining inside the coat so they are right sides together.
10.2Place the Front Lining and Main Front together at the center front on one side, sandwiching the zipper in between. Pin from the top of the Collar down to the hem.
Repeat on the other side.
10.3Stitch both sides using a ½ inch seam allowance and a zipper foot.
Trim the corners of the seam allowances on the Collar.
TIP – Check you can close your zipper properly before moving onto the next step.
11 . Main Side Seam11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the Main Front to the Main Back, right sides together along the side seam, pocket, underarm, and sleeve keeping the lining out of the way so it is not sewn into this seam. Repeat for the other side. Then skip to step 12.
11.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Place the Main Front onto the Main Back right sides together one side, matching the Sleeve and side seam, making sure that the Lining is out of the way.
Starting at the Sleeve hem pin along the side seam.
OPTIONAL SIDE SEAM POCKETS – If you have added optional side seam pockets, pin the two Pockets together along the outer curved edges.
11.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – We have shown a Main Front with OPTIONAL Side Seam Pockets. If you have not added these pockets, you will be stitching straight down the side seam.
11.3Press.
11.4Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 on the other side.
12 . Lining Side Seam12.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Lining Front to the Lining Back, right sides together along the side seam, underarm, and sleeve. Repeat for the other side leaving a 6-inch gap to turn through. Then skip to step 13.
12.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Pin the Lining Front to the Lining Back along one side seam and the sleeve right sides together. Start pinning at the Sleeve end and pin along the side seam to the bottom of the coat.
12.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.3Press.
12.4Pin the other side of the Lining Front to the Lining Back along the side seam and the sleeve right sides together. Start pinning at the sleeve end and pin along the underarm. Pin partially down the side seam, then leave a 6-inch gap for turning through and then pin the rest of the side seam.
12.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and leaving the 6-inch gap for turning.
12.6Press.
13 . Finishing Collar13.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 13.1 to 13.5 serging in step 13.3 instead of stitching. Then skip to step 14.
13.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Flip coat right side out.
13.2Go inside the garment and pin the bottom Collar seams together. Be careful to not twist the Collar or the zipper in this seam.
NOTE – Stitch as close to the ends of the Collar as possible. Each of the ends has been stitched down previously.
13.3Stitch along the ½ inch seam allowance.
13.4Turn the coat right side out. Check the Collar to make sure you only caught the seam allowance in this seam and that none of your stitching is showing on the outside of the coat.
13.5Press the Collar flat.
14 . Rib Cuff14.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the short ends of the Cuff together right sides facing. Turn right side out and fold in half so wrong sides are facing. Serge the short edges of the Cuff Facing together. Follow Steps 14.8 to 14.10. Then serge to top edge of Cuff Facing to the Cuff. Then skip to step 15.
14.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Fold your Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching the short edge. Pin.
FIT CHECK – We recommend fit checking the Cuff around your wrist before stitching it. Ribbing can have different stretch recovery which can affect the fit of the Cuff. Remove any extra width if needed, keeping a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will need to use a stretch stitch and a needle for sewing on knits for these steps with the Rib Cuff.
14.3Press the seam allowance open.
14.4Fold your Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
14.5Fold your Cuff Facing in half widthwise, right sides together, matching the short edge. Pin.
14.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
14.7Press the seam allowance open.
14.8Find and mark the quarter points of your Cuff.
14.9Find and mark the quarter points of your Cuff Facing.
14.10Place the Cuff Facing over the Cuff, matching the raw edge of the Cuff to the top edge of the Cuff Facing matching the quarter points.
14.11Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. You will need to stretch the Rib Cuff to match the Cuff Facing.
14.12Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.11 with the other Cuff and Cuff Facing.
15 . Finishing Sleeves15.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 15.1 to 15.7 serging in step 15.2 and 15.5 instead of stitching. Then skip to step 16.
15.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
With Sleeve Lining right side out, place the Cuff right side down onto the Sleeve Lining matching up the Cuff seam with the Sleeve Lining seam. The Cuff Facing will be wrong side up. You are going to stitch over the seam sewn in step 14.11. Pin.
15.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance stretching the cuff flat as you sew.
15.3Pull the Sleeve Lining so the wrong side is facing out, tucking the Rib Cuff in away from the cuff opening.
15.4Pull the Outer Sleeve wrong side out and pin the Cuff Facing to the Outer Sleeve right sides together all the way around matching the Sleeve seam with the Cuff Facing seam and ensuring that the sleeve is not twisted.
15.5Carefully stitch using ½ inch seam allowance making sure to only stitch the end of the sleeve to the cuff facing and not stitching the sleeve shut.
15.6Turn the Sleeve right side out.
TIP – You can topstitch this seam sewn in step 15.5 to help hold the facing inside the sleeve.
15.7Repeat steps 15.1 to 15.6 with the other Sleeve.
16 . Hem16.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Outer Bottom of the coat to the coat Facing using ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 16.3.
16.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Place the Outer bottom of the coat right sides together with the Coat Facing along the entire hem from one front corner, around the back and finishing at the other front corner. Pin.
16.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
16.3Press the seam allowance open.
16.4Pull the coat right side out through the gap in the Lining left in step 12.
16.5Press.
16.6Hand stitch the hole shut using a ladder stitch to invisibly close the hole.
Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces.
Directly across from the starting point, push the needle through the fabric and then back down through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, this will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.
Repeat all until the entire opening is stitched closed. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.
NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.
17 . Button Stand17.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Attach female snaps to the Button Stand at the pattern markings. Then fold the Button Stand in half right sides together, aligning Interlining to the raw edges and serge using ½ inch seam allowance along the pointed edge and the long straight edge. Then skip to step 17.4.
17.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION –
Using the pattern markings as a guide, attach the female snaps to the Button Stand.
NOTE – The folded edge of the Button Stand will be attached to the right of the coat as worn.
17.2If adding Interlining to the Button Stand, align it on the wrong side of the fabric now.
Fold the Button Stand right sides together. Pin along the short, pointed edge, and down the long straight edge. Leave the short straight edge open for turning.
17.3Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
17.4Clip the corners.
17.5Pull right side out through the short flat side.
17.6Press.
17.7Fold the short flat edge ½ inch up into the Button Stand. Press.
17.8Repeat step 15.6 to stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch.
18 . Attaching the Button Stand18.0The Button Stand will now be attached to the front of the coat. We recommend using a regular sewing machine for this step.
18.1Pin the Button Stand to the right as worn Front of the coat approximately 1 inch away from the zipper finished edge.
Begin by fastening the snaps on the Button Stand and the Front of the coat. Aligning the short flat edge of the Button Stand at the bottom edge of the coat, pin the opposite side of the Button Stand to the Front of the coat from the bottom edge up to the top of the Collar. Check that the top of the Button Stand is laying between the Hood snaps on the Collar.
NOTE – The top pointed edge of the Button Stand will fold over to the back of the coat to protect the chin from being scratched by the zipper when the coat is zipped all the way up.
TIP – This seam is very thick. A walking foot can make it easier to stitch through the thick seam.
18.2Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance along the folded edge of the Button Stand to attach it to the Front of the coat.
18.3Fold the top pointed edge of the Button Stand over to the wrong side of the Collar, so that the shorter side of the Button Stand sits flush at the top and your top snap is not covered. Pin.
18.4Topstitch down using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you are finding it difficult to stitch through the folded over Button Stand, try one of the following: lengthening your stitch, using the handwheel on your sewing machine rather than the foot pedal, using a larger needle or using a wedge to lift the presser foot up before placing the fabric under the presser foot.
TIP – If you find the Button Stand doesn’t stay in place, hand stitch it down.
18.5If you are sewing the Optional Hood continue with Step 18.
If you are not sewing the Optional Hood your Puffer Coat is now finished!
19 . OPTIONAL Hood19.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the OPTIONAL Interlining to the wrong side of the Hood and Hood Band pieces without removing any seam allowance. Serge the Hood Band to one Hood piece right sides together. Repeat with the other Hood piece. Serge the Lining Hood Band to one Lining Hood Piece. Repeat with the other hood piece. Pin and serge the Main Hood to the Lining Hood leaving a small hole for turning in the back of the hood. Then skip to step 19.13.
19.1REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – If you are adding the OPTIONAL Interlining to the Hood follow below. If not, then skip to step 19.3
OPTIONAL INTERLINING – Pin the Interlining to wrong side of each of the two hood pieces and the hood band.
19.2Baste the Interlining to the hood pieces using ¼ inch seam allowance.
19.3Pin the Hood Band to one Hood piece along the center seam, right sides together. Pin carefully to line up this straight piece to the curved edge.
19.4Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
19.5Clip the curved seam close to the seam allowance being careful to not clip into the seam.
19.6Press the seam allowance open.
19.7Repeat steps 19.3 to 19.6 to attach the other side of the Hood Band to the other Hood Piece.
19.8Repeat steps 19.3 to 19.6 for the Hood Lining pieces.
19.9Pin the Main Hood and the Hood Lining right sides together, leaving a small gap at the back of the Hood on the neckline to turn through. Start pinning along the front of Hood then pin along the neckline of the Hood, making sure to carefully match the Lining to the Main Hood.
19.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
19.11Turn the Hood right side out.
19.12Press the Hood, making sure to press the seam allowance of the gap into the Hood.
19.13Repeat step 16.6 to hand stitch the gap closed using a ladder stitch.
19.14OPTIONAL – Topstitch around the entire Hood using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
19.15Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add the female snaps to the pattern markings on the Main Hood.
Your Puffer Coat is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Puffer Coat is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
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Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPuffer Coat Sewing Pattern
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This loose fitting puffer coat finishes between the knee and mid calf. It has a raglan sleeve with rib cuffs to keep the sleeves snug at the wrist. The collar sits high enough that when closed it’s perfect to tuck your chin in on a blustery day. The optional detachable three piece hood will keep you warm and dry in the winter months. Add optional front patch pockets, side seam pockets and an inner pocket. The front has an open ended zipper with hidden snaps to keep the coat closed securely at the front.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Bicep
Sleeve length
Center back to hem
Hem circum
ference
XXS
44.0
45.0
52.0
17.0
28.7
40.0
52.0
XS
46.0
47.0
54.0
17.7
29.0
40.2
54.0
S
48.0
48.0
56.0
18.6
29.1
40.5
56.0
M
50.0
50.0
58.0
19.5
29.2
40.6
58.0
L
52.0
52.0
60.0
20.3
29.3
41.0
60.0
XL
55.0
55.0
63.0
21.2
29.5
41.2
63.0
XXL
58.0
58.0
66.0
22.1
29.7
41.5
66.0
3XL
61.0
62.0
69.0
23.0
30.0
42.0
69.0
4XL
64.0
66.0
72.0
24.0
30.1
42.3
72.0
5XL
67.0
70.0
75.0
25.1
30.3
42.6
75.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – This is the exterior fabric that you will see on the finished garment.
- Recommended fabrics are mid weight wovens. Not suitable for knit/stretch fabrics.
- If you would like your coat to be showerproof, use fabrics such as PUL, nylon, ripstop, taslan nylon, or other waterproof breathable fabrics.
- You can also treat most woven fabrics (such as cotton or quilting cotton) with a waterproof fabric protector.
- I do not recommend laminated cotton; it will not be breathable and may cause sweating and/or overheating.
- Your exterior fabric does not need to be quilted. We will quilt it using your interlining in step 1. Alternatively, if you wish to use pre-quilted fabric, any medium weight pre-quilted fabric up to a thickness of ¾ inch will work. Just skip step 1 and do not use interlining.
Interlining – This is the fabric that goes in between the exterior and lining. It will be quilted to the exterior fabric in step 1 and will not be seen in the final garment. It gives the vest insulation and it’s ‘puffed’ look.
- Recommended fabric is 8 oz or 12 oz polyester batting.
- 8 oz batting is ¾ inch thick, creating a slightly less puffy look
- 12 oz batting is 1 inch thick and will create a traditional puffer coat style. It is warm but not tight fitting.
- The finished garment measurements were all worked out using an 12 oz polyester batting.
- You could also use flannel or polyester apparel lining. Bamboo batting is also suitable but make sure to prewash it as many brands are known to shrink.
- You could skip the interlining. If you do this, your coat will have a looser fit and will not have the quilted look.
Lining – This is the fabric which goes on the very inside of the coat. You will not see this fabric unless the coat is open.
- Not suitable for knit/stretch fabrics. Must be woven only.
- Recommended fabrics are light to mid weight wovens such as lining fabric, polyester lining. You could also use cotton or quilting cotton for slightly more warmth.
- You could also use thicker fabrics such as flannel or fleece. If your fabric is particularly thick, the coat will fit much more snugly. An alternative is to not use an interlining and just use a thicker lining fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat OPTIONAL Hood Main Lining Interlining Main Lining Interlining XXS – XS 3.75 2.50 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 S – M 3.75 2.75 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 L 4.00 2.75 4.00 0.50 0.50 0.50 XL – XXL 4.25 3.00 4.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 3XL 4.50 3.00 4.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 4XL 4.75 3.25 4.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 5XL 4.75 3.75 4.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Coat OPTIONAL Hood Main Lining Interlining Main Lining Interlining XXS – XS 3.00 2.00 3.00 0.50 0.50 0.50 S – M 3.25 2.00 3.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 L – XL 3.25 2.25 3.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 XXL 3.50 2.25 3.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 3XL 3.50 2.75 3.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 4XL – 5XL 3.75 2.75 3.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- 1x 40 inch long open ended or separating zipper. An open ended/separating zipper opens fully so that the two sides of the zip separate from each other. It can be a plain separating zipper, or a chunky separating zipper.
- NOTE – The zipper needs to be this length. As it is an open ended/separating zipper, you cannot trim it to length. If you are adjusting for height, you will also need to re-calculate the length of your zipper. Calculate the number of inches you are adjusting for, add/remove this from the zipper length and round it down to an even number. For example if you are adding in 3 inches, this makes the length of zipper needed 43 inches, round it down to 42 inches.
- ⅜ – ¾ inch wide Snaps – If you are using heavier weight fabrics, you will need more heavy weight or metal snaps. For thinner fabrics, you can use either plastic or metal snaps:
- Coat x9
- OPTIONAL Hood x4
- Ribbing for the Cuffs – approximately 0.25 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Ribbings can have different stretch recovery. You may need to pre steam it before you cut it.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, zipper foot, and tailors chalk/washable fabric pen. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.