Quilted Wall Hanging

Preparing Fabric

Before cutting out each of the pieces, you need to ‘square-up’ the fabric. Start by folding the fabric in half placing the selvages together.

Lay the fabric onto your cutting mat so the fold is lined up with a gridline and raw edge is on your right hand side. Place your clear cutting ruler on top of your fabric and align it with a vertical gridline close to the raw edge of fabric.

Using your rotary cutter, cut off the strip of uneven strip of fabric. Before moving your ruler, double check that the edge you have just cut is now a square.

Preparing Triangle D

Use Template Triangle D to cut out the triangles or follow below for directions on how to cut out the triangles without the template. You will cut 6 squares, and a total of twelve (12) triangles.

Cut a 7 inch by 42 inch strip from the background fabric.

Cut six 7 inch x 7 inch squares.

Lay one of the squares onto your cutting mat. Place your clear cutting ruler diagonally onto the square, lining the ruler up with two corners that are on opposite corners of the square.

Using your rotary cutter, cut the square in half diagonally.

The square will now be two triangles.

Repeat with the remaining five triangles. You will have a total of 12 triangles.

The triangles will now be referred to Triangle D.

Preparing Triangle E

Use Template Triangle E to cut out the triangles or follow below for directions on how to cut out the triangles without the template. You will cut 5 squares, and a total of twenty triangles. You will use 18 of the triangles.

Cut five 10 ¼ inch x 10 ¼ inch squares from the background fabric.

TIP – Cut two 10 ¼ inch x 42 inch strips from the background fabric, then cut the 10 ¼ inch x 10 ¼ inch squares.

TIP – Before cutting your fabric, spray the rows with spray starch. This will help keep the fabric stiffer making it easier to cut, easier to stitch and match seams.

Lay one of the squares onto your cutting mat. Place your clear cutting ruler diagonally onto the square, lining the ruler up with two corners that are on opposite corners of the square.

Cut the square in half diagonally.

NOTE – After cutting the square, do not move it.

Move the ruler to the opposite corners, that were just cut.

Using your rotary cutter, cut the square in half diagonally.
The square will now be four triangles.

Repeat with the remaining five triangles. You will have a total of 20 triangles.

The triangles will now be referred to Triangle E.

Preparing Templates A, B, and C

Prepare Templates A, B, and C by cutting them out from the pattern.

If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create
double fold Quilt binding. Unlike bias binding, quilt binding is cut with the grainline parallel to the selvedge.

Fold the fabric in half matching the selvedge edges together.
Using a ruler, cut a 2.75 inch by 21inch strip.

NOTE – Because you have folded the fabric in half, the strip will actually measure 2.75 inches by 42 inches.

Do not move the fabric.

Unfold the strip and check you’ve cut your strip the right width.

If you are happy with the length of your strip of binding cut the rest of the binding strips.

Lay a Binding strip right side up. Place another strip right side down perpendicular to the first strip.

Using a ruler, mark the angle between the ends of the Binding strips with tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen.

Stitch the Binding strips together along the marked line.

Trim the excess fabric leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance. Iron the seam allowance to either one side or open.

Repeat with the other pieces until all of the Binding is stitched together.

You will need to use as accurate ¼ inch seam allowance as possible. If you do not have a ¼ inch quilting foot, you can measure from the needle ¼ inch to the right and mark the ¼ inch.

Place two of the Strip Sets strips right sides together. Pin.

TIP – You can put colors together randomly or plan them out.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the piece and press the seam to one side.

TIP – Press fabric to the side that is darker fabric.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 to make the other five Strip Sets.

You should have six Strip Sets in total.

NOTE – There are only three Strip Sets shown in the picture.

Using the Template pieces, cut the following from each Strip Set:

Template A cut x2

Template B cut x1

Template C cut x1

Starting with Template C, lay the template onto the Strip aligning the center line of the template with the seam on the strip. Using your ruler and rotary cutter, cut the fabric.

On the same strip, align the long diagonal edge of Template B with the diagonal edge cut from Template C.

Using your ruler and rotary cutter, cut the fabric.

TIP – Cut a diagonal line as you are cutting the second edge of Template B to help align the next template.

Rotate Template A so Edge C is at the top, and Edge A is at the bottom of the strip. Then, repeat step 1.6 to cut out Template A.

Rotate Template A so Edge A is at the top, and Edge C is at the bottom of the strip. Then, repeat step 1.6 to cut out the second Template A.

Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.8 to cut out Templates A, B, and C from the other 5 strips.

Once all pieces are cut out, you should have Template A x12, Template B x6 and Template C x6.

The pieces will now be known as A, B, and C.

NOTE – Not all of the cut out pieces are pictured.

Align a short edge of Triangle E with edge A of piece A with right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The pointy corner of Triangle E will hang off the bottom of the short edge and appear as if it is too big. The portion that hangs off is needed for the seam allowance.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the piece and press the seam to one side.

TIP – When pressing do not use large back and forth motions, as this can cause the fabrics to stretch.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to create the other 11 A and E pieces.

Align a short edge of Triangle E with edge A of piece B with right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the piece and press the seam to one side.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to create the other five B and E pieces.

Align the long edge of Triangle D with edge C of piece C with right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the piece and press the seam to one side.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other five C and D pieces.

This step is to layout the quilt in rows, and to move the pieces around until you are happy with the arrangement. Do not stitch the pieces together in this step.

NOTE – The rows of the quilt are numbered starting from bottom to top, so Row 1 is the bottom row of the final quilt.

Row 2 will be laid out as follows starting from the left with 1 triangle D, 1 AE piece, 1 BE piece, another AE piece, and ending with a CD piece.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 to create all six rows.

Lay out all rows in order as shown.

TIP – Once you have all of the pieces laid out, take a look at the layout, and decide if you want to move them around to change how the quilt looks. Before moving any pieces, take photos to compare to the changes so you can compare and decide which you like best.

TIP – Take a photo of the final layout so you can refer back to the block placement as you are stitching them together.

The rows of the quilt are numbered starting from bottom to top, so Row 1 is the bottom row of the final quilt.

Lay Triangle D on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning the long edge of Triangle D and edge A of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay piece BE on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning edge A of piece BE and edge C of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay the second piece AE on top of piece BE right sides together, aligning edge A of piece AE and edge C of piece BE right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay piece CD on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning edge A of piece CD and edge C of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Row 1 is complete.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.8 to create Row 3 and Row 5.

Double check the layout of rows 2, 4, and 6 to make sure they are correct.

TIP – If you took pictures of the final layout from step 5.3, compare your layout of the rows to the photo to make sure the pieces are placed correctly.

Lay piece CD on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning edge A of piece CD and edge C of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay piece BE on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning edge C of piece BE and edge A of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay piece AE on top of piece BE right sides together, aligning edge C of piece AE and edge A of piece BE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Lay Triangle D on top of piece AE right sides together, aligning the long edge of Triangle D and edge A of piece AE. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press.

Row 2 is complete

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to create Rows 4 and 6.

Before stitching the rows together, the rows need to be squared up. This means to make sure all the corners are cut square at a 90 degree angle, along with the edges being cut even and straight.

Before starting, press each row really well.

There will likely be small little edges that need to be trimmed off for the rows to be squared up. Take your clear ruler and line it up with the main seams on the block. Check that the corners make a 45 degree angle.

Before trimming up the row, double check that everything is lined up correctly then trim off the edges.

Lay the rows out again in the correct order.

Before moving the rows from where they are laid out, flip Row 2 onto Row 1. This will place Row 1 and Row 2 right sides together.

Pin at each angle seam along the top of Row 1 and the base of Row 2, matching each of the seams.

NOTE – The bottom row of the quilt is Row 1.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press to one side.

Repeat step 8.3 to 8.4 to stitch Rows 3 and 4 together, and then Rows 5 and 6 together.

Repeat step 8.2 to layout the rows in the correct order.

Repeat step 8.3 to 8.4 to attach Row 1-2 to Row 3-4.

Repeat steps 8.3 to 8.4 to attach Row 5-6 to the top of Row 3-4.

Your Quilt Top is finished.

Find and mark the center of each of the Border Strip B.

Find and mark the center on the top and bottom of the Quilt.

Place a Border B strip onto the top edge of the quilt top right sides together, matching centers. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press.

Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.4 to attach the second Border B strip to the bottom border of the quilt.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.4 to attach both of the Border A strips to the sides of the Quilt.

Place the Backing pieces right sides together aligning along the 56 inch edges. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press.

NOTE – For quilting the batting and backing need to be 3 to 4” wider than the quilt top on all sides.

Lay the Back wrong side facing up. Center the batting on top.

NOTE – The pictures used are from a different pattern, however, the techniques are the same.

Place the Quilt Top on top, right side facing up.

Add pins or safety pins across entire blanket as needed to secure before quilting.

TIP – If preferred, use a basting spray to baste the layers together.

TIP – Start pinning in the center of the Quilt, then move towards the outer edges, smoothing towards the outer edges as needed.

Quilt the Front and Back together using the design of choice.

Quilting adds a lovely dimension, texturally and visually to your fabric. It can make your sewn items look really special.

If you would like to achieve the look, we have created, here is how to do it.

Find the center of the blanket. Stitch diagonal lines through the strips and through the diamonds at the center. Then, work your way outward.

NOTE – This is where you can go as fancy or as simple as desired. Have fun and make this
your own.

TIP – Remember to remove the pins/safety pins as you sew, so you don’t break your needle or your pins.

TIP – Use a contrasting thread to show the quilting detail.

TIP – Use a walking foot when quilting a straight stitch.

Trim away the excess Backing and batting from around the Quilt.

Open up the bias binding.

Fold a short end of the strip to the wrong side of the fabric so the short end aligns with the long edge opposite of the fold you just created. Press.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together. Press.

Place the binding onto the bottom, center back of the Quilt aligning the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt.

Open up the folded edge of the binding.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, start stitching ¼ inch before the beginning of the binding. Stitch 2 to 3 inches.

TIP – We recommend using a walking foot, or pressure foot for this step.

Refold the binding.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, start stitching ¼ inch before the beginning of the binding. Stitch until you are ¼ inch from the corner.

Fold the binding away from the Quilt.

Place a finger on the fold to keep it in place.

Fold the binding back over itself towards the Quilt, keeping the straight edges aligned. Pin.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch the long edge stopping ¼ inch from the edge.

Trim end of binding leaving ¼ – ½ inch extra.

Tuck the end under the beginning part of the binding that has been folded over from step 11.4 and 11.5 so it lays under the beginning of Binding. Finish stitching. Press.

Fold the bias binding to the front of the Quilt over the raw edge. Pin.

At the corners, fold one side of the bias binding all the way down. Then fold the other corner down forming a 45 degree fold. Pin.

Then stitch in the ditch along the seam.

This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam.

Your Quilted Wall Hanging in finished!