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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Savannah Swimsuit
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This swimsuit pattern is very flattering with a sculpting waist seam and shaped cups. It is fully-lined, has an optional skirt, and two optional cross-back straps to add visual interest.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your bust measurement to the size for your waist, then to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the hem using your hip measurement size.
- Height – This swimsuit is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and/or bum. The swimsuit waist is designed to sit at the natural waist.
- Rise – The crotch has been drafted to fit an average rise (the curve of the bottom). If you have a long or short torso or rise you may find you need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. The pattern measurements will have a negative ease, you will need to sew a muslin to find the best fit. If you need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust (front or back), cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! It is highly recommended that you sew a muslin first (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) if this is the case for you. That way you can play around with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other swimsuits, trousers, shorts etc. in the future to get them spot on.
- Bust – The pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup).
- If your bust size is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial.
- Straps – We have provided strap lengths for the shoulder straps and the optional cross straps. You may find you need to adjust these according to your body shape and height. We recommend sewing these for your muslin in the same stretch fabric, as this will affect the fit.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A Muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment. If you are adding OPTIONAL Cross Straps check if these fit across your back shape. You may need to add in or take out of the length.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL Pre-Finished Foam Padding: Cut and Sew Foam/Bra Foam/Polylaminate Foam Padding/Sheet Foam – approximately ¼ yard
- Adding foam padding into the swimsuit cups will add more coverage, structure, and support. Foam padding is a layer of foam which is laminated with fabric on both sides. It is available in different thicknesses, qualities, and fabric lamination.
- ¼ inch Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
- Outer Bust Panel – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Sew Foam – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Inner Bust Panel – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Sew Foam – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Top Bust – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Sew Foam – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Front Waist Panel – Fabric cut 1 on the fold, Lining cut 1 on the fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 1 on the fold
- Front Waist Panel – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on the fold, Lining cut 1 on the fold
- Pants Front – Fabric cut 1 on the fold, Lining cut 1 on the fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on the fold
- Pants Back – Fabric cut 1 on the fold, Lining cut 1 on the fold
- Strap – Fabric cut 2
- OPTIONAL Skirt: Front – Fabric cut 1 on the fold
- OPTIONAL Skirt: Back – Fabric cut 1 on the fold
- OPTIONAL Top Cross Strap – Fabric cut 1
- OPTIONAL Bottom Cross Strap – Fabric cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSavannah Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
Being in a swimsuit has never been more fun than in the Savannah Swimsuit! With unique lines and fun straps, you’ll be ready for a day at the beach or pool. Add in the optional skirt for a little extra coverage and your suit will truly be one of a kind as you enjoy splashing with the kids or just laying pool side soaking up the rays.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Hip
Top waist
Bust
Pant length center front to seam
Pant length center back to seam
OPTIONAL Skirt length
XXS
25.6
20.2
22.4
12.7
11.1
11.1
XS
27.1
21.5
24.0
13.1
11.5
11.1
S
28.6
22.5
25.2
13.5
12.0
11.1
M
30.2
24.0
26.7
14.0
12.3
11.1
L
31.6
25.7
28.3
14.3
12.7
11.1
XL
34.0
28.1
30.6
14.7
13.1
11.1
XXL
36.2
30.6
32.6
15.1
13.5
11.1
3XL
38.5
34.1
34.7
15.4
14.0
11.1
4XL
40.7
37.0
37.0
16.0
14.3
11.1
5XL
43.0
40.1
39.0
16.3
14.6
11.1
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
Panel fabric – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh for the entire front of the swimsuit for additional support.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Swimsuit: Main
Swimsuit: Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Skirt
XXS – 3XL
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.00
4XL – 5XL
1.25
1.25
0.75
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Swimsuit OPTIONAL Skirt OPTIONAL
Cross strapXXS – M 4-5, 8-12, 14-20, 22 2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 12-13 14, 19-20 L 4-5, 8-12, 14-22 2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 12-13 14, 19-20 XXS – M 4-5, 8-22 2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13-14 14, 19-20 3XL – 5XL 4-5, 8-22 2-7, 9-10, 13-14 14, 19-20 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Swimsuit OPTIONAL Skirt OPTIONAL
Cross strapXXS – M 4-5, 8-12, 14-20, 22 2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13 14, 19-20 L – XL 4-5, 8-22 2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13-14 14, 19-20 XXL – 4XL 4-5, 8-22 2-7, 9-10, 13-14 14, 19-20 5XL 4-5, 8-22 2-7, 9-10, 13-14 14, 19-20 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Fabric
Elastic (¼ inch wide)
Strap (Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Top Cross Strap
(Cut 1)OPTIONAL Bottom Cross Strap (Cut 1)
Strap (Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Top Cross Strap
(Cut 1)OPTIONAL Bottom Cross Strap
(Cut 1)Pant Legs (Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
XXS
3.5
14.3
2.0
9.0
2.0
5.0
14.3
9.0
5.0
14.2
XS
3.5
14.5
2.0
10.0
2.0
5.5
14.5
10.0
5.5
15.1
S
3.5
14.7
2.0
10.5
2.0
6.0
14.7
10.5
6.0
16.1
M
3.5
15.1
2.0
11.0
2.0
6.5
15.0
11.0
6.5
17.0
L
3.5
15.2
2.0
11.5
2.0
6.8
15.1
11.5
6.8
18.0
XL
3.5
15.3
2.0
12.5
2.0
7.0
15.3
12.5
7.0
19.2
XXL
3.5
15.5
2.0
13.5
2.0
7.5
15.5
13.5
7.5
20.4
3XL
3.5
15.7
2.0
14.3
2.0
8.0
15.7
14.3
8.0
21.6
4XL
3.5
16.0
2.0
15.1
2.0
8.5
15.9
15.1
8.5
23.0
5XL
3.5
16.1
2.0
16.0
2.0
9.0
16.1
16.0
9.0
24.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- POWER MESH – Baste power mesh to the wrong side for every piece it is being added to.
- BUST PANEL – Right sides together pin the Outer Bust Panel and the Inner Bust Panel on the bust seam, sew and press open (now called the Bust Panel). Place the Top Bust Panel onto Bust Panel right sides together, pin, sew together and press open. Right sides together, pin both ends of the Front Waist Panel to the Bust Panel, sew, and press open (now called the Bust Panel). Right sides together, pin the Front Panel to the Center Front Panel until the underbust seam is reached, carefully pin the curve, then sew and press seam allowance open. Repeat steps on the other Bust Panel. This creates the Front Bodice.
- BUST PANEL: LINING – OPTIONAL Foam: Cut and sew the foam as follows: Outer Bust Panel to Inner Bust Panel at bust seam, then Top Bust Panel to Bust Panel right sides together. Trim seam allowances. Repeat for the lining pieces. Place lining and foam pieces wrong sides together and baste. Right sides together, pin both ends of the Front Waist Panel to the Bust Panel. Right sides together, pin Front Panel to Center Front Panel until the underbust seam. Sew and press open.
- STRAPS AND OPTIONAL CROSS STRAPS – Right sides together, fold the Strap in half lengthwise and sew. Sew elastic to one end of the seam allowance. Turn the Strap right side out and press. Repeat for the second strap and the OPTIONAL cross straps. Baste each end of the Top Cross Strap at the pattern marking of the Back Bodice. Repeat with the Bottom Cross Strap, placing it at the pattern marking closest to the center. Rights sides together, center a Strap over the strap edge of bodice front pin and baste. Repeat for second strap. Find the center of the Back Bodice and put right sides together, place one strap on the raw edge next to the center mark. Repeat for the second Strap, baste in place.
- BACK BODICE – Right sides together, pin the Back Bodice to the Back Bodice lining. Sew top curved edge. Cut elastic the same length as seam, line up elastic on the curve and sew in the seam allowance.
- FRONT BODICE – Placing right sides together, pin the Front Bodice and Front Bodice lining armscye and neckline edges, sew. Clip the point of the V. Cut elastic to the same length as neckline, one end needs to be cut at a 45 degree angle. On outer fabric, line elastic up on the neckline curve, sew. Repeat on the other side and both armscyes.
- SIDE SEAMS AND UNDERSTITCHING – With right sides together, pin the Front Bodice to the Back Bodice along the side seam and sew. Repeat on the other side. Understitch seam allowance around entire upper edge of bodice. Pin outer waist to the lining waist and baste.
- PANTS – With right sides together, pin the Front Pants to the Back Pants on the side seam, sew and press open. Repeat with both side seam and crotch seam.
- OPTIONAL SKIRT – Right sides together, sew the side seams of Skirt Front to Skirt Back and press open. Repeat for other side seam. Fold hem up and stitch. Right sides facing out, baste Skirt and Pants at waist.
- ATTACH BODICE TO PANTS – Right sides together pin Bodice to outer Pants, and Inner Bodice to Inner Pants, and sew both. Overlap ends of waist elastic by ½ inch and sew. Quarter elastic and the waist, then match them up and sew. Flip pants so they are wrong sides together, line up outer leg and leg lining then baste. Repeat for the other leg.
- PANTS ELASTIC – Overlap elastic by ½ inch and sew. On the lining, pin elastic, hold taut and pin along front curve. Stretch on the back side of the booty. Sew elastic, turn toward the lining, pin then topstitch. Repeat for the second leg opening.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – ½ inch hem allowance
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem – ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Power Mesh
Align each Pants Front lining with Pants Front mesh, wrong sides together.
Baste all the way around the outer edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat for any other pieces you are adding power mesh to for support.
NOTE – Power mesh can be added anywhere you’d like a little more support in your swimsuit. You can use it in just the Cups for extra bust support, through the Front Panel, in the Front Pants for tummy support. We only recommend using power mesh in the front pieces of your swimsuit.
1 . Bust Panel: Main1.1With right sides together, pin the Outer Bust Panel to the Inner Bust Panel along the bust seam.
TIP – Use Wash away tape to secure the edges of the curved seams before easing the rest of the curve.
1.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
1.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the outer edge.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as Bust Panel.
1.4With right sides together, pin the ‘top bust’ curve of the Top Bust Panel to the ‘top bust’ of the Bust Panel.
1.5Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the top edge.
1.6With right sides together, pin both ends of the ‘under bust’ on the Front Waist Panel to the ‘under bust’ of the Bust Panel.
1.7Add a pin about halfway between the end pins.
1.8Continue adding pins halfway between pins until you are comfortable the pieces are eased together and secure.
1.9Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the bottom edge.
NOTE – These four pieces will now be referred to as Bust Panel.
1.10With right sides together, starting at the bottom, pin the Front Panel to the Center Front Panel, matching the pattern marking on the Center Front Panel to the Under bust seam.
NOTE – Matching the Under Bust seam to the markings on the Center Front Panel will ensure cups are aligned on either side.
1.11Continue pinning up the straight edge of the Center Front Panel toward the curve.
Stop pinning at the ‘under bust’ seam.
1.12Pin the top edge of the curve.
1.13Add a pin in the center of the curve of both pieces.
1.14Continue adding pins approximately halfway between pins until you are comfortable the pieces are eased together and secure.
1.15Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Center Front Panel.
1.16Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.15 for the second Bust Panel.
NOTE – This will now be called Front Bodice.
2 . Bust Panel: Lining2.1If not adding cut and sew foam to the bust, skip to step 2.6.
OPTIONAL – If adding cut and sew foam to bust, repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 with the foam Bust Panel pieces.
2.2Trim the seam allowance to prevent bulk.
2.3Stitch over the seam allowance using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – This will flatten the seam and make the Cup smooth.
2.4Repeat steps 1.4 to 1.5 with the foam Bust Panel pieces.
2.5Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.3 to reduce bulk and smooth the seam.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for second foam Bust Panel pieces.
2.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 with both sets of lining pieces.
If not adding foam, skip to step 2.10.
NOTE – If using a serger, press lining seams opposite of the outer fabric. This will allow the seams to nest when sewed together, reducing bulk.
2.8With wrong sides together, align foam and lining pieces.
2.9Baste all the way around the outer edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
These will be treated as one piece from here out.
2.10Repeat steps 1.7 to 1.16 for the lining pieces.
NOTE – If using a serger, press lining seams opposite of the outer fabric. This will allow the seams to nest when sewed together, reducing bulk.
3 . Straps and OPTIONAL Cross Straps3.1With right sides together, fold Strap in half along long edge.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.3Pin elastic to one end of the seam allowance.
3.4Starting at one end, with a stretch stitch, stitch the elastic into the seam allowance. Hold the elastic taught, but not stretched while sewing.
TIP – If you prefer to attach elastic with a serger, turn off the knife before starting.
3.5Turn the Strap right side out and press with the seam in the center of the strap.
There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.
METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Carefully, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside carefully. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
3.6Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for second Strap and OPTIONAL Cross Straps (Top and Bottom).
If not adding OPTIONAL Cross Straps, skip to step 3.10.
3.7With right sides facing, match the top edge of the Top Cross Strap, ¾ inches down from the top edge of the Back Bodice. Pin. Repeat for the other side.
NOTE – Check that the strap has not twisted.
TIP – If you are struggling to visualize this please see the drawing in step 3.9 which shows both Straps attached.
3.8Baste the Strap in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.9Repeat steps 3.7 to 3.8 for the Bottom Cross Strap. Measure 1 ½ inches, following the curve of the Back Bodice, from the bottom of the Top Cross Strap and pin.
Trim off the excess overhanging triangles on each side of the Top and Bottom Cross Straps so that they sit flush with the curve of the Back Bodice.
3.10Right sides together, center one Strap over the strap edge of the bodice front and pin.
3.11Baste Strap in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.12Repeat steps 3.10 to 3.11 for the second Strap.
3.13Fold the Back Bodice in half to find the center of the back curve. Mark this with a pin or washable ink.
3.14Place your Front Bodice Lining side facing up and your Outer Back Bodice right side facing up. Place one Strap raw edge onto the Outer Back Bodice, just next to the center mark.
NOTE – Check that the Strap has not twisted.
3.15Repeat for second Strap.
3.16Baste Straps in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Take the bottom edge of the Front Bodice Lining and pull it through the Bottom Cross Strap. Your Outer Front Bodice and Outer Back Bodice will now be facing right sides facing up.
4 . Back Bodice4.1Right sides together, pin Back Bodice outer with Back Bodice lining along top curved edge.
TIP – If you’ve added the optional cross straps, make sure the main straps are on the wrong side of the cross straps.
4.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
NOTE – Make sure your straps are down and out of the way when sewing this seam. The basted ends will be caught in the seam.
TIP – Sew back and forth over the straps for extra security.
4.3Cut a piece of elastic the same length as this seam.
On the side of the outer fabric, align elastic at the end of the back curve, within the seam allowance.
Do not pin along the entire curve.
4.4As we did in step 3.4, start stitching the elastic within the seam allowance, holding the elastic tight, with a slight stretch.
Sew along the entire curve.
5 . Front Bodice5.1Right sides together, pin the Front Bodice outer with Front Bodice lining along armscye and neckline edges.
5.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – When sewing the neckline, sew down one side to the point of the V. Put your needle down, lift your presser foot, and turn the bodice before sewing up the other side.
NOTE – The neckline cannot be sewn on a serger.
NOTE – Make sure your straps are down and out of the way when sewing this seam. The basted ends will be caught in the seam.
TIP – Sew back and forth over the straps for extra security.
5.3Clip up to, but not through your stitches at the point of the V.
5.4Cut a piece of elastic the same length as one neckline edge.
At one end of this elastic cut a 45 degree angle.
5.5On the side of the outer fabric, align elastic at the end of the neckline curve, within the seam allowance.
Do not pin along the entire curve.
NOTE – This photo has both pieces of neckline elastic to show how they will come together to support the neckline. You will sew just one piece at a time.
5.6Start stitching the elastic within the seam allowance, holding the elastic tight, with a slight stretch.
Sew along the neck edge.
5.7Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.6 for the opposite neckline edge.
5.8For each armscye edge, stitch the elastic into the seam allowance, holding it taught, but not stretched while sewing.
6 . Side Seams and Understitching6.1You will be sewing the side seam starting from one end of the Bodice Lining to the other end of the Bodice Outer.
Match your Front Bodice Lining to your Back Bodice Lining, and your Outer Front Bodice to your Outer Back Bodice, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – You will be stitching through the back elastic. Take your time when stitching as this can be tricky to sew through. You may find using a walking foot helps sew through the layers.
6.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.3Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 for the second side seam.
6.4Turn the bodice right way out.
Understitch the seam allowance and elastic to the lining, starting at one strap down the V-neck to the other strap.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and outer bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.
6.5Pin the waist edge of the lining to the outer.
6.6Baste all the way around the waist edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7 . Pants7.1With right sides together, pin the Pants Front to the Pants Back along the side seam.
7.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Back.
7.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the second side seam and the crotch seam.
7.5Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 for the lining.
NOTE – If using a serger, press lining seams opposite of the outer fabric. This will allow the seams to nest when sewed together, reducing bulk.
8 . OPTIONAL Skirt8.0If you are not adding the optional skirt, skip to step 9.
8.1With right sides together, pin the Skirt Front to the Skirt Back along the side seam.
8.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
8.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Front.
8.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for second side seam.
8.5Fold the hem edge of the skirt up ½ inch to the wrong side.
8.6Stitch using a ½ inch hem allowance and a stretch stitch.
8.7With right sides facing out, align Skirt on to Pants along waist edge.
8.8Baste all the way around the waist edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – These will now be treated as one. The photos will show construction without the skirt, but the steps are the same.
9 . Attach Bodice to Pants9.1With right sides together, pin Outer Bodice to Outer Pants.
9.2Put right sides together, pin Inner Bodice to Inner Pants.
NOTE – This will now be layered Pants outer, OPTIONAL Skirt, Bodice outer, Bodice lining, Pants lining, with right sides of outer facing, and right sides of lining facing.
9.3Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
9.4Cut elastic the same length as your waist seam.
Overlap ends of waist elastic by ½ inch and stitch, creating a circle.
9.5Mark the quarter points of the elastic.
9.6Mark the quarter points of the waist.
9.7Match quarter points and pin elastic to waist, within the seam allowance.
9.8Stitch elastic to seam allowance using a stretch stitch.
9.9Flip Pants wrong sides together, moving through the leg holes as needed.
9.10Repeat steps 6.5 to 6.6 to baste leg opening lining to outer.
9.11Repeat step for second leg opening.
10 . Pants Elastic10.1Overlap ends of leg elastic by ½ inch and stitch, creating a circle.
10.2On the lining side, pin the overlapped elastic just off from the side seam, to the raw edge of the leg opening.
Holding the elastic taut, but not stretched, pin down the front curve to the crotch seam.
Stretch the remaining elastic to fit the booty curve of the pants.
Pin along entire leg opening.
TIP – To ensure the elastic is stretched evenly around the opening, mark the quarter points of the elastic and the leg opening, then match these up.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic joint near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive places.
10.3Stitch elastic to the leg opening.
10.4Turn the elastic toward the lining and pin.
10.5Topstitch close to the edge of the elastic with a stretch stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
10.6Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.5 for the second leg opening.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Savannah Swimsuit is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpsavannahswimsuit.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSavannah Swimsuit
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
Being in a swimsuit has never been more fun than in the Savannah Swimsuit! With unique lines and fun straps, you’ll be ready for a day at the beach or pool. Add in the optional skirt for a little extra coverage and your suit will truly be one of a kind as you enjoy splashing with the kids or just laying pool side soaking up the rays.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Hip
Top waist
Bust
Pant length center front to seam
Pant length center back to seam
OPTIONAL Skirt length
XXS
25.6
20.2
22.4
12.7
11.1
11.1
XS
27.1
21.5
24.0
13.1
11.5
11.1
S
28.6
22.5
25.2
13.5
12.0
11.1
M
30.2
24.0
26.7
14.0
12.3
11.1
L
31.6
25.7
28.3
14.3
12.7
11.1
XL
34.0
28.1
30.6
14.7
13.1
11.1
XXL
36.2
30.6
32.6
15.1
13.5
11.1
3XL
38.5
34.1
34.7
15.4
14.0
11.1
4XL
40.7
37.0
37.0
16.0
14.3
11.1
5XL
43.0
40.1
39.0
16.3
14.6
11.1
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
Panel fabric – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh for the entire front of the swimsuit for additional support.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Swimsuit: Main
Swimsuit: Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Skirt
XXS – 3XL
1.00
1.00
0.50
1.00
4XL – 5XL
1.25
1.25
0.75
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Pre-Finished Foam Padding: Cut and Sew Foam/Bra Foam/Polylaminate Foam Padding/Sheet Foam – approximately ¼ yard
- Adding foam padding into the swimsuit cups will add more coverage, structure, and support. Foam padding is a layer of foam which is laminated with fabric on both sides. It is available in different thicknesses, qualities, and fabric lamination.
- ¼ inch Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when its exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, and salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- OPTIONAL Pre-Finished Foam Padding: Cut and Sew Foam/Bra Foam/Polylaminate Foam Padding/Sheet Foam – approximately ¼ yard