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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Skinny Jeans
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
Feel the ultimate sense of sewing accomplishment when you make yourself a pair of Skinny Jeans or Jeggings with our Skinny Jeans sewing pattern. These full-length Skinny Jeans have a super skinny fit and come with plenty of options. Create a classic pair of Skinny Jeans with 20% stretch denim fabric, pockets, fly, button closure, and optional belt loops. Or create a pair of jeggings with 50% stretch fabric, a faux fly, and a continuous elastic waistband.
Instant download digital sewing patterns. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size by your hip measurement. If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct hip measurement, then grade out or in, to the correct waist size.
- Once you have selected your size take your leg measurements (using the pattern markings on the pattern pieces as a guide) and subtract 10%. Make a note of these measurements and compare them to the chart above. Add/remove at the pattern markings until it is 10% less than your measurement. You will need to distribute this evenly on either side of the Front and Back Leg.
- For example if you are a size L your mid-thigh measurement needs to be 18.1 inches. If the difference of your measurement to this measurement is 1 inch (as an example), you will need to divide this by four, which equals ¼ inch. Add ¼ inch onto each side of the Front and Back Leg at the pattern marking for mid-thigh, blending in the seam to the next measurement.
- If your measurement falls into the next size, grade in or out using these two sizes.
- For example if you are a size L your mid-thigh measurement needs to be 18.1 inches. If you measure 19.2 (as an example), you will need to grade out to the XL size (which is 19.3 in the chart) at the mid-thigh.
- Once you have selected your size take your leg measurements (using the pattern markings on the pattern pieces as a guide) and subtract 10%. Make a note of these measurements and compare them to the chart above. Add/remove at the pattern markings until it is 10% less than your measurement. You will need to distribute this evenly on either side of the Front and Back Leg.
- Height – These trousers are designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6.
- Everyone varies in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- We suggest adding/removing length across the front and back rise. Measure your front and back rise and compare it to the finished measurements above.
- Measure from your crotch to the crease at the back of your knee. Take this measurement and draw a line through at the knee on the Front and Back pattern pieces. Add/remove here.
- Measure from knee to ankle and adjust the pattern pieces here too.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your leg. The pant is intended to sit at the ankle. Compare this measurement to the Inseam on the finished measurement chart to help make adjustments for height.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted jeans have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases, do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Cut along the front and back rise and split and spread the pattern, increasing/decreasing by your measurement. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted jeans can be a bit of an art, but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs and yoke, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- There are many other jeans fitting techniques that might apply to your beautiful figure.
- The jeans are designed for a stretch denim with a minimum stretch of 20% for the skinny jeans and 50% for jeggings.
- Great options are stretch denim, ponte, scuba, bengaline, or even an old pair of stretch jeans upcycled.
- Stretch direction – For some stretch woven fabrics, the stretch runs down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Check you are cutting your pattern pieces with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not waist to ankle.
- Stretch denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able.
- 1x Fastening – approximately ⅝ – 1 inch wide. You could use a traditional jeans style button, a regular button, or a snap. If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
- OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide Jeans rivets – 8x for the corners of each of the front and back pockets.
Maximum size of ½ inch. - OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Single fold bias tape – This can optionally be used to finish the fly area (half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes).
- 1x 8-inch zipper – you can use any 8-inch zipper, but a ‘chunky’ or ‘jeans’ zipper will be more authentically jeans-like.
- Thread to match. You may want to also use specialty top stitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight, and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. You will need 2-3 spools.
- 1 inch wide elastic – 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, buttonhole presser foot and pins or clips.
- OPTIONAL Zipper foot for the zipper fly option.
- OPTIONAL hammer or mallet for attaching buttons.
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Bag- Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Belt Loops – Fabric cut 1
- NOTE – If you are sewing the jeggings, you do not need Belt Loops
- Waistband – Fabric cut 1
- Fly Guard – Fabric cut 1
- Fly Stand – Fabric cut 1
- Back Yoke – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Back Pocket – Fabric cut 2
Project OverviewSkinny Jeans
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
These full length jeans have a super skinny fit. You can sew jeggings with 50% stretch fabric, a faux fly and continuous waistband. Or sew a pair of stretch jeans with 20% stretch fabric. Both options have front western style pockets, a back yoke and optional back pockets. You can add optional belt loops onto the jeans which have a fly or faux fly option and button closure.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Top Thigh
Hip
Mid-Thigh
Inside Leg
Ankle
Mid- Calf
Knee
Front Rise
Back Rise
XXS
24.5
19.5
29.0
14.5
30.7
7.6
9.1
11.2
8.3
11.5
XS
26.5
20.5
31.0
15.3
30.7
8.2
10.0
12.0
8.5
11.7
S
27.5
21.5
32.6
16.2
30.7
9.0
10.6
13.0
8.7
12.0
M
29.5
23.0
34.5
17.2
30.7
9.5
11.3
13.6
9.0
12.2
L
31.5
24.0
36.5
18.1
30.7
10.0
12.1
14.5
9.2
12.5
XL
34.5
25.3
38.5
19.3
30.7
10.6
13.0
15.5
9.5
13.1
XXL
37.3
27.0
41.3
20.5
30.7
11.2
13.6
16.3
10.0
13.6
3XL
41.2
28.3
44.0
21.7
30.7
12.0
14.3
17.3
10.3
14.2
4XL
45.2
30.0
46.5
23.0
30.7
12.5
15.1
18.3
10.7
14.7
5XL
49.1
31.5
49.2
24.3
30.7
13.0
16.0
19.1
11.1
15.3
Fitting NotesThese jeans sit at your natural waist. This pattern has negative ease.
If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
Materials and ToolsLining fabric
You will need a lining fabric for the Pocket Bags. Your lining fabric can be any medium weight fabric that has the same amount of stretch as your main fabric.Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – S
1.50
0.25
M
1.75
0.25
L
2.00
0.25
XL – 4XL
2.25
0.25
5XL
2.50
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XXL
1.50
0.25
3XL – 4XL
1.75
0.25
5XL
2.00
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Jeans OPTION:
Jeggings OPTION:
Tools needed are:
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Jeggings Jeans OPTIONAL
Belt LoopsXXS – XS 2-8, 10-25 2-25, 28 5-7 S – M 2-25 2-25, 28 5-7 L – XXL 2-26 2-26, 28 5-7 3XL – 5XL 2-28 2, 28 5-7 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Jeggings Jeans OPTIONAL
Belt LoopsXXS – XS 2-8, 10-25 2-25, 28 5-7 M – XL 2-26 2-26, 28 5-7 XXL – 5XL 2-27 2-28 5-7 Sewing TipsThe main construction method for these jeans is flat fell seams. This is where the seam is stitched together, and one half of the seam allowance tucks over the other. It keeps the raw edges hidden and is a traditional and popular technique for denim as it makes for a very strong seam. If you haven’t used this technique before, don’t worry, all the steps are included so you can follow along.
Flat felling generally also includes using a top stitch thread in the top of the machine (a thicker, more decorative thread), and a regular thread in the bobbin. The instructions are written so that if you are doing this, the top stitch thread will be on the correct side of the fabric for this finish.
Throughout the pattern you will find serger / overlocker alternatives. If you are not using a serger and do not wish to follow the flat felling method, you can use the zig zag or overcasting stitch on your sewing machine.
Where any seams are curved (for example the hip area), you will need to ease the fabric around the curve. To do this, pin the fabric in this order – at the top, at the bottom, along the straight sections and then lastly around the curve. To pin around the curve section, you will need to ease (slightly stretch the fabric) as you pin.
Good luck & have fun!
Sewing with specialty fabrics can be really fun & rewarding (and just as easy as normal fabrics) once you’ve got your sewing machine set up how you want it.
Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Binding (Cut 1)
Waistband (Fabric cut 1)
OPTIONAL Belt loops (Fabric cut 1)
Jeggings OPTION: 1 inch wide Elastic (cut 1)
Fly Guard
Fly Zip
Width
Length
Width
Length
Length
Length
Length
XXS
4.5
25.6
2.0
18.0
23.5
12.5
10.0
XS
4.5
27.5
2.0
18.0
25.5
12.5
10.0
S
4.5
28.6
2.0
18.0
26.5
12.5
10.0
M
4.5
30.6
2.0
18.0
28.5
12.5
10.0
L
4.5
32.5
2.0
18.0
30.5
12.5
10.0
XL
4.5
35.5
2.0
18.0
33.5
12.5
10.0
XXL
4.5
38.3
2.0
18.0
36.3
12.5
10.0
3XL
4.5
42.2
2.0
18.0
40.2
12.5
10.0
4XL
4.5
46.2
2.0
18.0
44.2
12.5
10.0
5XL
4.5
50.1
2.0
18.0
48.1
12.5
10.0
Cutting Checklist:
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- OPTIONAL BACK POCKETS – Add embroidery to pockets. Fold the top edge of the pocket down ¼ inch to wrong side, press. Turn pocket over, fold the fabric over ½ inch to right side, press, stitch ½ inch seam allowance on the top folded edge. Clip corners. Turn to the right side, press. Fold raw side edges under ¼ inch. Press. Fold each bottom edge in ¼ inch, press. Repeat to fold bottom edge another ¼ inch. Topstitch top of pocket. Place pocket onto the Back Pocket per markings, topstitch along the entire pocket. Reinforce at top corners and apply rivets if desired.
- BACK YOKE – Attach a Back Yoke to a Back Leg using a flat fell seam. Repeat for other Back Yoke and Back Leg.
- FRONT POCKETS – Fold bottom and side edge of Pocket Facing ¼ inch to wrong side, press. Lay Pocket Bag right side up, put Pocket Facing right side up on the Pocket Bag, Pin. Stich on top straight edge, and side seam using ¼ inch seam allowance. Topstitch bottom raw edge and other pressed side edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Lay Front Leg right side facing up. Place Pocket Bag right sides together with Front. Pin. Stitch using ⅝ inch seam allowance. Trim and clip seam allowance. Flip Pocket Bag wrong sides together. Press. Topstitch Pocket. Stitch the Pocket Bag closed using a French seam. Pin the Pocket Bag to the Front along the top and side. Baste. Repeat with the other Front, Pocket Facing and Pocket Bag.
- ZIPPER FLY OPTION – Finish long edge and bottom edge of Fly Guard by serging, zigzag edges, or bind edges with binding. Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand. Lay Fly Guard with finished edge at the top. Place zipper on top of Fly Guard right side facing up. Pin along finished edge. Stitch zipper to Fly Guard using ⅜ inch seam allowance. Finish rise seam of one Front piece from top edge down to small pattern marking. Place two Fronts right sides together at Front rise. Pin. Stitch from pattern marking down to end of front rise seam using ⅝ inch seam allowance. Open legs and press seam allowance to wrong side. Place zipper and Fly Guard right side up then place left leg on top of zipper. Flip over so right sides are facing up. Pin folded edge close to zipper tape and through Fly Guard. Topstitch. With right sides together, pin Fly Stand to right leg. Stitch using ⅝ inch seam allowance. Flip Fly Stand to wrong side of right leg. Press. OPTIONAL – Topstitch Fly Stand. Pin right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing. Turn front legs over, wrong side up. Pin zipper to Fly Stand. Stitch. Pin Fly Guard to left leg out of the way. Mark the curved part of fly for topstitching. Topstitch marked curve. OPTIONAL – Stitch bar tack. Turn jeans over, lay Fly Guard over Fly Stand, pin. Stitch Fly Guard to Fly Stand along the overlap on the bottom edge.
- FAUX FLY OPTION – Finish long edge and bottom edge of Fly Guard by serging, zigzag edges, or bind edges with binding. Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand. Place the two Front right sides together. Pin the front rise from pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam. Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance. Open the right side of the jeans, put Fly Guard on left leg and pin, stitch top down to marking using ½ inch seam allowance. Turn Fly Guard over, press, topstitch. Place right sides together, pin. Place Fly Stand onto right leg, stitch from waist edge down to marking. Flip Fly Stand to wrong side of right leg, press. OPTIONAL – Topstitch Fly Stand in place. Fold Fly Guard back on itself. Pin. Mark the curved part of fly for topstitching. Flip pocket back out of the way. Topstitch marked curve. Turn jeans over, lay Fly Guard over Fly Stand, pin. Flip jeans over so the right side is up. Stitch Fly Guard to Fly Stand starting halfway down curved stitching. Flip jeans over, right side up. Pin Fly Guard to Fly stand. Stitch Fly Guard to Fly stand starting halfway down curved stitching then topstitch along edge of Fly Stand.
- FRONT RISE – Clip the seam allowance below the zipper fly and finish the front rise with a flat fell seam.
- BACK RISE – Stitch the Back Rise using a flat fell seam.
- INNER LEG SEAM – Stitch the Inner Leg Seams using a flat fell seam.
- OUTER LEG SEAM – Stitch the Outer Leg Seams using a French seam.
- OPTIONAL BELT LOOPS – Fold belt loop strip in half, press. Open, fold raw edges into center, press. Fold again, press. Topstitch ⅛ inch on each side of long edges. Lay Waistband on a flat surface and fold Waistband in half widthwise wrong sides together. Align one end of the Belt Loop to the top folded edge of the Waistband. Cut the Belt Loop at the bottom raw edge of the Waistband. Cut 5x strips of Belt Loops all the same length. Press. Fold a short end of each Belt Loop up ¼ inch to the wrong side. Repeat for all 5 Belt Loops.
- WAISTBAND – Press Waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Unfold. Press one long edge ⅝ inch to wrong side. Fold Waistband in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin. Stitch each short edge using ⅝ inch seam allowance. Clip Corners. Turn Waistband right side out. Press. Open zipper. Place right side of Waistband on the inside of jeans. Pin. Stitch. Flip the Waistband over to the right side. Press. OPTIONAL Belt Loops: pin each Belt Loop onto Waistband at bottom folded edge at pattern markings. Pin bottom edge of Waistband to jeans. Topstitch Waistband. Take other end of Belt Loops, pin folded edge to top of the Waistband. Pin. Topstitch. Close zipper. Use pattern markings, mark where fastening will sit. Stitch buttonhole. Mark button placement. Apply button. OPTIONAL add rivets to Front Pockets.
- JEGGINGS ELASTIC WAISTBAND OPTION – Fold Waistband in half widthwise, right sides together. Press. Unfold. Press one long edge ⅝ inch to wrong side. Match short edges of Waistband right sides together, keeping seam allowance folded. Pin. Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Fold Waistband wrong sides together with the side that has the pressed seam allowance to the inside. Press. Place right side of the Waistband onto inside of jeggings. Pin. Stitch using ⅝ inch seam allowance. Turn Waistband right side out. Press. Topstitch top of Waistband. Overlap ends of Waistband elastic by 1 inch. Pin. Stitch. Insert elastic inside Waistband. Pin bottom folded edge of Waistband onto jeggings. Topstitch bottom Waistband. OPTIONAL add rivets to Front Pockets.
- HEM – Try jeans on, check length and adjust. Fold hem ½ inch, press. Fold another ½ inch, press, pin. Topstitch close to folded edge. Repeat for other leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅝ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅝ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk.
1 . OPTIONAL Back Pockets1.0If you are doing the OPTIONAL Back Pockets, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 2.
If you are using a topstitch thread, put this into your machine now. Make sure to use a regular thread in your bobbin.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge all edges to finish (do not remove any seam allowance). If you wish to apply embroidery, follow step 1.1. if not skip to step 1.2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1If you wish to apply any embroidery to the Back Pockets, do this now. If not, skip to step 1.2.
You could do straight lines, crosses, freehand embroidery, or even a design or name using a sewing machine, embroidery machine, or freehand.
If doing an applique or other embellishment, do this now.
If you are using a machine to embroider on the Back Pocket and have not yet cut out your Back Pockets accurately so that you could get the fabric into your embroidery hoop, finish cutting out the Back Pockets once you are done with your embroidery.
If you use topstitching thread for this step, change back to regular thread before moving to the next step.
TIP – You can use a washable fabric pen or tailor’s chalk to draw on your embroidery first to give you lines to sew over easily.
1.2Fold the top edge of the Back Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
1.3Turn the Back Pocket over and fold the fabric ½ inch to the right side. Press.
1.4Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge ½ inch away from the side, on both sides.
1.5Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
1.6Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side.
Press.
TIP – Use a chopstick or other blunt object to push out the corners if needed to help get a nice sharp point.
1.7Fold the raw edge on the side under by ¼ inch. Press so the raw edges are hidden.
Repeat for the other side of the Back Pocket.
1.8Fold the bottom edges of the Back Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side once.
Then repeat to fold the bottom edges of the Back Pocket another ¼ inch to the wrong side.
1.9If you have a little triangle of fabric hanging down from the top of the pocket edge, either trim this or tuck it up inside the top of the pocket and press.
1.10Topstitch from the right side of the fabric close to the folded edge at the top of the Back Pocket.
Leave the threads long at each end.
TIP – Stitch slowly. It can be difficult to sew through all these layers. Use the handwheel rather than the pedal if needed. Beware of snapping needles and stitch with care.
TIP – Use a ‘clapper’ to make it easier to stitch through the layers. Alternatively, cover your fabric with a clean old tea towel, place it on a flat hard surface and bang the thick section gently with a hammer. This flattens and makes the fabric thinner to stitch through. It also breaks the fibers and makes the fabric less dense.
1.11Use a needle to push the loose threads all through to the back side of the Back Pocket. Tie in a knot and trim.
1.12Place the Back Pocket onto a Back Leg using the pattern markings. Pin.
TIP – As everyone’s body shape is different you might find the pocket placements may not be in the best position for you. Baste the Back Pocket using the placements provided. Once you have completed step 7, try them on and adjust the placements if needed. Then continue with 1.13 to stitch them in place.
1.13Topstitch along the side of the Back Pocket, across the bottom and up the other side, using a ⅛ seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle/bar tacks at the corners for extra stability and security. This is especially useful for reinforcing the pockets if you tend to put your hands in your Back Pockets or use them for storing things like a phone.
TIP – If you are using topstitching thread, it can be tricky to backstitch. Instead leave the thread loose, take the tails through to the wrong side of the fabric, tie in a secure knot and trim.
TIP – Take extra care around the bottom point of the pocket as this is the thickest part of the pocket to stitch through. You may need to use your handwheel in this area if your sewing machine has difficulty with this point.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.13 for the other Back Pocket.
1.14If you wish to apply rivets, apply these as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the two upper corners of the pockets.
If not, skip to step 2.
2 . Back Yoke2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Back Yoke right sides together with the Back Leg, ensuring the correct pieces are matched. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. If you are using a 3 or 4 thread serger, stitch along your serged seam, using a regular sewing machine. This will strengthen the seam, as it is a high stress point. Press the seam up towards the Back Yoke. OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance in place. Repeat for the other Back Yoke and Back Leg. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1The Back Yoke and Back Leg piece will be joined using a flat fell seam.
Place the Back Leg piece wrong side up, and then place the Back Yoke wrong side up above it.
The center back seam of the Back Yoke pattern piece is labeled. This is the side to match to the back rise.
The opposite edge to the center back seam will be slightly shorter. It lines up with the outside leg side seam on the Back Leg.
If you’ve got the wrong Back Yoke piece, switch these now and check they match.
Once you’re happy you have the correct pair of pieces, move on to the next step.
NOTE – Your Back Yoke piece might have a different shape to what is shown. Use the labels on the pattern piece to check which way you need to attach the Back Yoke to the Back Leg.
2.2With flat fell seams, it is important which piece you have on top when you stitch. The top piece will have the first row of top stitching and then the bottom piece will have the seam allowance pressed towards it and the second row of top stitching.
Flip the Back Yoke down onto the Back Leg piece so they are wrong sides together.
One pointed edge of the Back Yoke will stick out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ⅝ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.
2.3Take your time pinning these edges together.
Start by pinning each end.
NOTE – If the raw edge of the Back Leg is too long for the Back Yoke piece check that you have the Back Yoke the correct way up.
2.4Then pin in the middle and the rest of the seam.
2.5Stitch with the Back Leg piece on top, using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
The seam allowance will be sticking out on the right side of the garment (not the underside like it usually would be).
TIP – Having the Back Leg piece on top is important to ensure the topstitching looks correct so make sure the back is on top and the Back Yoke is underneath when you put the fabric onto your sewing machine before stitching.
TIP – If you are using a thicker topstitching as used in these photos, some sewing machines won’t like backstitching at either end of the seam. Flat fell seams have two rows of stitching holding them down so backstitching can be skipped on most seams. Instead, leave a small tail of thread at either end to stop it unravelling while you complete the rest of the garment. Once complete the seams will all overlap or be finished in some way and these tails will be hidden.
2.6Trim ONLY the Back Yoke seam allowance in half.
Do not trim the Back Leg seam allowance.
2.7Press the seam towards the Back Yoke (so that the shorter part of the seam allowance is hidden underneath).
Turn the garment to the wrong side and check the full seam allowance has been pressed. Especially near the outside leg seam, it can be easy to not open the seam allowance fully. This seam is what gives the bottom shaping so it’s important it’s fully open.
2.8Fold the longer part of the seam allowance in half. The raw edge should tuck in, underneath the other shorter bit of seam allowance that you trimmed in step 2.6.
Press.
2.9Topstitch from the right side of the fabric, close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge) to secure the fold down.
Press.
Your first flat fell seam is now complete!
We will be using this technique in several places throughout the sew. As you get used to it, make sure to check each time which pattern piece needs to be on top. This will ensure you end up with the topstitching thread showing on the correct piece, and the seam allowance folding in the right direction.
2.10Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.9 for the other Back Yoke and Back Leg.
3 . Front Pockets3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom edge and side edge of the Pocket Facing that is sewn down to the Pocket Bag without removing any seam allowance. Follow steps 3.1 to 3.4. Serge the Pocket Bag right sides together to the Front Leg. Follow steps 3.7 to 3.8. Serge the bottom edge of the Pocket Bag using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow step 3.12. Repeat all with the other Front Leg, Pocket Facing, and Pocket Bag. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Fold the bottom and side edge of your Pocket Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
NOTE – These will be the edges that will be stitched to the Pocket Bag.
3.2Lay the matching Pocket Bag right side up.
Place the Pocket Facing onto the Pocket Bag right side facing up, matching the top corners. Pin.
3.3Stitch the Pocket Facing to the Pocket Bag along the top straight edge and along the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).
3.4Topstitch the bottom raw edge and the other side edge you pressed down in step 3.1 of the Pocket Facing to the Pocket Bag using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).
3.5Lay the Front Leg right side facing up. Place the Pocket Bag right sides together with the Front. Pin.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
3.6Trim the seam allowance approximately in half, then clip the seam allowance.
TIP – Clip approximately every ½ inch. The aim is to open the seam out so it will sit flat in the next step. Use the tip of the scissors for maximum control. Snip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to the seam or you may end up with a hole. It’s easier to snip less and come back and snip again if needed than it is to fix a hole.
TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the Front leg seam, then trim ⅜ from the Pocket Bag seam allowance.
3.7Flip the Pocket Bag over to the wrong side of the Front, wrong sides together. Press.
3.8If you are using topstitching thread, change your thread to this now for this step only.
Topstitch along this seam with the Front on top so the stitching can be seen.
3.9The bottom of the Pocket Bag will be closed using a French Seam.
Fold the Pocket Bag wrong sides together. It’s a bit tricky to do this and you’ll need to slide it in between the Front and the other side of the Pocket Bag.
Stitch along the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Take care not to catch the Front, or any other part of the Pocket Bag.
3.10Trim the seam allowance to neaten.
3.11Turn the Pocket Bag the other way out so that it is now right sides together. Press, making sure the seam from step 3.9 is in the middle of this seam. Pin.
Stitch along the bottom of the Pocket Bag using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.12Pin the Pocket Bag to the Front along the top and side.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.13Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.12 with the other Front, Pocket Facing, and Pocket Bag.
If you are sewing the zipper fly OPTION, follow below. If you are sewing the faux fly OPTION or the jeggings OPTION, skip to step 5.
4 . Zipper Fly OPTION4.0The following steps show the zipper fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a woman/girl’s fly is oriented. If you want your fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.
4.1If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 4.3.
Alternatively, finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Do not remove any seam allowance if you are serging.
4.2Repeat step 4.1 to finish the curved edges of the Fly Stand.
Skip to step 4.7.
4.3You will be binding the long edge and the bottom edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.
To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long edge of the Fly Guard and pin in place.
NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.
4.4Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.5Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges. Press.
4.6Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.
Repeat steps 4.4 to 4.6 to bind the curved edges of the Fly Stand.
4.7Lay the Fly Guard with the finished edge at the top. Place the zipper on top of the Fly Guard right side facing up and pin along the finished edge.
NOTE – The zipper teeth need to be ⅝ inch from the edge of the Fly Guard. As zipper tapes vary in width, check that you have the correct seam allowance, adjusting your placement accordingly.
NOTE – If your zipper is too long, remove some of the teeth from the bottom, to shorten it. Use pliers to gently pull the teeth off. Then stitch a bar tack over the zipper teeth at the bottom.
4.8Stitch the zipper to the Fly Guard using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Guard.
4.9REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Finish the rise seam of one Front piece from the top edge, down to the small pattern marking (marked in yellow in this photo). Use either a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge, or alternatively bind using the method from steps 4.3 to 4.6. Repeat for the other Front.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge to finish the full length of the rise seam of one Front piece. Do not remove any seam allowance. Repeat for the other Front.
4.10Place the two Fronts right sides together at the front rise. Pin.
Stitch from the pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
Open the legs and press the seam allowance on the left legs rise seam ⅝ inch toward the wrong side.
TIP – It can be helpful to press just under ⅝ inch, so the overlap needed in the following steps is a bit easier.
4.11Place the zipper and Fly Guard right side up and place the left leg (as worn) on top of the zipper. Flip over so right sides are facing up and pin the folded edge close to the zipper tape and through the Fly Guard.
4.12Topstitch, from the right side, close to the folded edge through all layers, using a zipper foot.
4.13With the right sides together, pin the Fly Stand to the right leg.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
4.14Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.
4.15Pin the right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing.
NOTE – You want your pins to be going vertically so that you can complete the next step.
4.16Turn the front legs over so that the wrong side is up. You will be sewing the zipper to the Fly Stand, but not through the jeans leg.
Pin the zipper to the Fly Stand and stitch. Be careful to keep the jeans leg out of the way.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Stand.
4.17Pin the Fly Guard to the left leg so that it is out of the way for the next step.
4.18Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly. You can do this by feeling for the Fly Stand and then marking with a piece of chalk or washable marker.
TIP – Use the Fly Stand pattern piece as a template.
Check the lines finish just below the zipper so that you do not end up stitching over the zipper teeth.
Keeping the Pocket Bag and Fly Guard out of the way, topstitch where you have marked.
TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. If yours has this, just cut the cardboard flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.
OPTIONAL – Stitch a horizontal bar tack ½ inch above the bottom curve for added strength.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch a second row of stitching.
4.19Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard.
Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand along the overlap on the bottom edge.
NOTE – Do not stitch it to the leg.
Skip to step 6.
5 . Faux Fly OPTION5.0If you are sewing the faux fly OPTION, follow below. If you have sewn the zipper fly, skip to step 6.
The following steps show the faux fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a women’s fly is oriented. If you want the fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.
5.1If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 5.3.
Alternatively, finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Do not remove any seam allowance if you are serging.
5.2Repeat step 5.1 to finish the curved edges of the Fly Stand.
Skip to step 5.7.
5.3You will be binding the long edge and the bottom edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.
To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long edge of the Fly Guard and pin in place.
NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.
5.4Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.5Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges. Press.
5.6Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.
Repeat steps 5.3 to 5.6 to bind the curved edges of the Fly Stand.
5.7REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – OPTIONAL Finish the rise seam of one Front piece from the top edge, down to the small pattern marking (marked in yellow in this photo). Use either a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge, or alternatively bind using the method from steps 4.4 to 4.7. Repeat for the other Front.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge to finish the full length of the rise seam of one Front piece. Do not remove any seam allowance. Repeat for the other Front.
5.8Place the two Front right sides together. Pin the front rise from the pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
5.9Open the legs right side up and place the Fly Guard on the left leg (as worn) and pin.
Stitch from the top down to the marking using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.10Flip the Fly Guard over and press.
5.11Topstitch close to the folded edge.
5.12Place the Fly Stand onto the right leg right sides together. Pin.
Stitch from the waist edge down to the marking using a ½ seam allowance.
5.13Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.
5.14Fold the Fly Guard back on itself so that it is out of the way for the next step. Pin.
5.15Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly with a piece of tailor’s chalk or washable marker. Feel through the fabric to the Fly Stand underneath and follow the seam allowance of this.
TIP – You can use your Fly Stand pattern piece as a guide for drawing on your line.
Flip the pocket back out of the way. Depending on the size, you may need to unpick a little of the stitching holding the top of the pocket in place in order to flip it back out of the way. Alternatively, if it does overlap the Fly Stand and you want it stitched underneath it, lay this flat under it now.
Topstitch where you have marked, keeping the pocket and Fly Guard out of the way.
TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. Just cut the flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.
5.16Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard and let it lay open and flat, so it covers the Fly Stand. Pin in place from the right side.
If you are sewing the jeggings OPTION, skip to step 5.18. If you are sewing the jeans OPTION, follow below.
5.17Flip the jeans over so the right side is facing up. You will be stitching the fly half closed.
Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top of your previous stitches.
You can also add a horizontal stitch to make it even more secure.
Skip to step 6.
5.18Flip the jeans over so the right side is facing up. You will be stitching the fly completely closed. Pin the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand, making sure they line up nicely along the topstitching.
Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top or your previous stitches. Topstitch along the edge of the Fly Stand ⅛ inch from the edge, making sure it is lined up nicely with the top stitching of the Fly Guard. Your fly is now completely stitched closed.
6 . Front Rise6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, you have already finished the front rise. Skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1You will use a flat fell seam to finish the front rise.
Clip across the seam allowance of the rise seam, below the zipper fly, towards the stitching. You will be clipping as close to the stitching as possible. Clip each side.
6.2Trim the seam allowance on the right side of the seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the left.
NOTE – If you chose to have your zipper fly opening to the right, you will be trimming the seam allowance on the left. All of the rest of the steps will be opposite.
6.3Press the left seam allowance over the right seam allowance.
6.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin from the right side.
6.5Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric (with topstitching thread if you are using it).
NOTE – The topstitching should meet the end of the curved stitching on the front of the jeans.
7 . Back Rise7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Back pieces right sides together and pin along the rise. Serge the using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to one side. OPTIONAL Topstitch the seam allowance in place. Then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1A flat fell seam will be used to stitch the back rise.
Place the Back pieces right sides together and pin along the rise seam.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
Make sure to carefully line up your Back Yoke seams so they match nicely before stitching.
7.2Trim the seam allowance on the left side of the rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the right.
NOTE – You are trimming the opposite side of what you did in step 6.2. This is so the stitching on both seams will match up when you stitch the Front and Backs together. If you did the fly on the other side, do the opposite here too.
7.3Press the right seam allowance over the left.
7.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin from the right side.
If you have any difficulty folding the raw edges over the Back Yoke seam, open out the seam allowance and trim the underneath seam slightly along this section. Then refold, press and pin. If needed use clappers or hammer gently while covering the fabric to flatten.
7.5Topstitch close to the folded edge.
8 . Inner Leg Seam8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin along the inner leg seam. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to the Back. OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam in place. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1You will use a flat fell seam to stitch the inner leg seam.
Place the Front and Back wrong sides together. Pin down the inner leg seam, starting where the Front and Back rises come together.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance with the Front on top.
8.2Trim the seam allowance on the Back in half.
NOTE – Do not trim the seam allowance on the Front. Make sure you are only trimming the seam allowance from the Back in half, from the top. You should only ever be cutting through one layer of fabric.
8.3Press the Front seam allowance over the Back seam allowance.
8.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press.
Pin from the right side of the fabric.
8.5Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric.
9 . Outer Leg Seams9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin along one outer leg seam. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to the Back. Repeat with the other outer leg seam. If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 10. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 11 for the regular Waistband or step 12 for the Jeggings Elastic Waistband.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the outer leg seams together. French seams hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
9.1With the wrong sides together (right sides facing out), pin a Front to the Back along the outer leg seam.
TIP – Start by pinning the waist together, then the hem and at the center. Continue pinning together. This will help align the side seam.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both the beginning and the ending of stitching.
NOTE – If you find your fabric is too thick to do a French seam, follow the serger option but use a zig zag stitch or bind to finish the seam.
9.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
9.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
9.4Stitch again approximately ⅜ inch from the edge.
Press.
This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
NOTE – The first ¼ inch from step 9.1 plus the ⅜ inch from this step equals the full seam allowance of ⅝ inch.
9.5Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.4 with the other outer leg seam.
If you are sewing the jeggings option, skip to step 13.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, follow below.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 11 for the regular Waistband or step 12 for the Jeggings Elastic Waistband.
10 . OPTIONAL Belt Loops10.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold your Belt Loop strip in half along its length with wrong sides together, and press.
10.2Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step, press.
10.3Fold in half, along your original fold line from step 10.1 and press. Your raw edges should now be tucked inside.
Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
10.4Lay the Waistband on a flat surface and fold the Waistband in half widthwise, wrong sides together.
Align one end of the Belt Loop so that the raw edges are lined up with the top folded edge of the Waistband.
Cut the Belt Loop where the bottom raw edge of the Waistband is.
Repeat to cut 5x strips of Belt Loop, all the same length, which are the same depth as the Waistband.
Discard any remaining Belt Loop, just keeping these 5 identically sized pieces.
10.5Press each short end ¼ inch to the wrong side for all 5 Belt Loops.
If you are sewing the jeans version, follow below. If you are sewing the jeggings version, skip to step 12.
11 . Waistband11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the same steps as below, except for steps 11.2 and 11.5, serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
11.1Press your Waistband piece in half along the length wrong sides together. Unfold.
Press one long edge of the Waistband ⅝ inch to the wrong side.
11.2Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
Stitch each short edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching over the folded seam allowance from step 11.1 at the sides of the Waistband.
11.3Clip the corners to reduce bulk and create crisp corners.
11.4Turn the Waistband right side out and press.
Make sure to fully turn the corners out. Use a blunt pointed object such as a point turner or knitting needle to get them all the way out.
Open up the zipper. Place the right side of the Waistband on the inside of the jeans and pin.
You should be pinning the right side of the Waistband that the seam allowance has not been pressed upwards to the jeans.
Start by pinning each end and then ease the remainder in.
NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your jeans exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it onto the top of the jeans slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side in half and pin, divide in half again and pin, repeat again until it is evenly distributed along the Waistband.
11.5Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to pull the pressed side of the Waistband out of the way.
TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the outer Waistband seam, then trim ⅜ from the inner Waistband seam allowance.
11.6Flip the Waistband over to the right side and press.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, pin each Belt Loop onto the Waistband at the bottom folded edge as per the pattern markings, or as desired. You want to catch the Belt Loops in the topstitching of this seam.
Pin the bottom edge of the Waistband to the jeans. Make sure the folded edge of the Waistband covers the stitching.
11.7Topstitch all the way around the Waistband using top stitching thread if you are using it.
OPTIONAL BELT LOOPS – Make sure as you are stitching that you are only catching the bottom pinned edge of the Belt Loop.
11.8Take the other end of the Belt Loops and pin the folded edge to top of the Waistband. Pin.
Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge. Go over each Belt Loop a few times for extra security. You may need to use your handwheel to do this depending on the thickness of your fabric.
11.9Close the zipper. Using the pattern markings, mark using a pin, tailors chalk or invisible fabric marker where the fastening will sit. Your fastening should be halfway between the top and bottom of the Waistband, centered over the section where the two sides of Waistband cross over.
OPTIONAL POPPER/SNAP – There is a male and female part which snap together. Decide which part you want on top. Apply that part at the buttonhole pattern marking using the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 11.10.
If you are using a button, stitch the buttonhole horizontally along the Waistband at the pattern marking.
TIP – Some topstitching threads are too thick for buttonholes. If you have difficulty, do not use topstitching thread for the buttonhole. Instead use a matching regular thread.
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty.
TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slide in much more smoothly.
TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have become blunt, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.
11.10Mark centrally under the buttonhole where your button needs to go.
If you are using a jeans-style button, apply your button using manufacturers’ instructions. If you are using a regular style button, stitch this on now.
OPTIONAL POPPER/SNAP – Apply the other part at the button pattern marking using the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 11.11.
TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large of a hole, the button will move around.
TIP – If you are using a hammer on buttons or snaps, practice this on a scrap piece of fabric first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.
If you are not adding OPTIONAL rivets, skip to step 14. If you are adding OPTIONAL rivets, follow below.
11.11Add two rivets to each Front Pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These should be applied so that the edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the Pocket.
Skip to step 13.
12 . Jeggings Waistband OPTION12.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the steps below except in steps 12.2, 12.3, and 12.6 serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
12.1Fold the Waistband in half widthwise wrong sides together and press. Unfold.
12.2Press one long edge of your Waistband ⅝ inch to the wrong side.
12.3Match the short edges of the Waistband right sides together. Pin.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching over the folded seam allowance from step 12.1.
12.4Fold your Waistband wrong sides together with the side that has the pressed up seam allowance to the inside and press.
12.5Place the right side of the Waistband onto the inside of the jeggings, matching the raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Line up the seam in your Waistband with the center back of your jeggings.
You should be pinning the right side of the Waistband that does not have the seam allowance pressed up to the wrong side of the jeggings.
NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your jeggings exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it onto the top of the jeggings slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side in half and pin, divide in half again and pin, repeat again until it is evenly distributed along the Waistband.
12.6Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to move the inner Waistband (with pressed edge) out of the way.
12.7Turn the Waistband right side out and press.
12.8Topstitch around the top of the jeggings Waistband using topstitching thread if you are using it.
12.9Overlap the ends of your Waistband elastic by 1 inch. Pin.
Stitch together so that your elastic is now secured into a circle.
12.10Insert the elastic inside your Waistband right up to the topstitching.
12.11Pin the bottom folded edge of the Waistband down onto the jeggings, making sure you are not catching the Waistband elastic into this seam.
NOTE – Make sure the folded edge of the Waistband covers the stitching from step 12.6.
12.12Topstitch all the way around the bottom of the Waistband with topstitching thread if you are using it.
If you are not adding OPTIONAL rivets, skip to step 14. If you are adding OPTIONAL rivets, follow below.
12.13Add two rivets to each Front Pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These should be applied so that the edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the pocket.
13 . Hem13.0FIT CHECK – Try the jeans/jeggings on and check the length. Adjust as needed, allowing for a 1-inch hem.
ROLLED CUFF HEM – If you would prefer a rolled cuff hem, follow the steps below but fold the hem towards the right side for each step. Then stitch at the side seams to secure.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem on one leg using a ½ inch seam allowance. Fold to the wrong side ½ inch, press and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other leg.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
13.1Fold the bottom hem on one leg ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
13.2Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.
13.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.3 for the other leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Skinny Jeans are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpskinnyjeans.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSkinny Jeans
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
These full length jeans have a super skinny fit. You can sew jeggings with 50% stretch fabric, a faux fly and continuous waistband. Or sew a pair of stretch jeans with 20% stretch fabric. Both options have front western style pockets, a back yoke and optional back pockets. You can add optional belt loops onto the jeans which have a fly or faux fly option and button closure.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Top Thigh
Hip
Mid-Thigh
Inside Leg
Ankle
Mid- Calf
Knee
Front Rise
Back Rise
XXS
24.5
19.5
29.0
14.5
30.7
7.6
9.1
11.2
8.3
11.5
XS
26.5
20.5
31.0
15.3
30.7
8.2
10.0
12.0
8.5
11.7
S
27.5
21.5
32.6
16.2
30.7
9.0
10.6
13.0
8.7
12.0
M
29.5
23.0
34.5
17.2
30.7
9.5
11.3
13.6
9.0
12.2
L
31.5
24.0
36.5
18.1
30.7
10.0
12.1
14.5
9.2
12.5
XL
34.5
25.3
38.5
19.3
30.7
10.6
13.0
15.5
9.5
13.1
XXL
37.3
27.0
41.3
20.5
30.7
11.2
13.6
16.3
10.0
13.6
3XL
41.2
28.3
44.0
21.7
30.7
12.0
14.3
17.3
10.3
14.2
4XL
45.2
30.0
46.5
23.0
30.7
12.5
15.1
18.3
10.7
14.7
5XL
49.1
31.5
49.2
24.3
30.7
13.0
16.0
19.1
11.1
15.3
Materials and Tools- The jeans are designed for a stretch denim with a minimum stretch of 20% for the skinny jeans and 50% for jeggings.
- Great options are stretch denim, ponte, scuba, bengaline, or even an old pair of stretch jeans upcycled.
- Stretch direction – For some stretch woven fabrics, the stretch runs down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Check you are cutting your pattern pieces with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not waist to ankle.
- Stretch denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able.
Lining fabric
You will need a lining fabric for the Pocket Bags. Your lining fabric can be any medium weight fabric that has the same amount of stretch as your main fabric.Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – S
1.50
0.25
M
1.75
0.25
L
2.00
0.25
XL – 4XL
2.25
0.25
5XL
2.50
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XXL
1.50
0.25
3XL – 4XL
1.75
0.25
5XL
2.00
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Jeans OPTION:
- 1x Fastening – approximately ⅝ – 1 inch wide. You could use a traditional jeans style button, a regular button, or a snap. If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
- OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide Jeans rivets – 8x for the corners of each of the front and back pockets.
Maximum size of ½ inch. - OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Single fold bias tape – This can optionally be used to finish the fly area (half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes).
- 1x 8-inch zipper – you can use any 8-inch zipper, but a ‘chunky’ or ‘jeans’ zipper will be more authentically jeans-like.
- Thread to match. You may want to also use specialty top stitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight, and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. You will need 2-3 spools.
Jeggings OPTION:
- 1 inch wide elastic – 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
Tools needed are:
- Sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, buttonhole presser foot and pins or clips.
- OPTIONAL Zipper foot for the zipper fly option.
- OPTIONAL hammer or mallet for attaching buttons.