St. Tropez Top

We are going to fold and press as if we were making double and single fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). You can use store bought single or double folded bias tape. Just make sure that it is 1 inch wide when unfolded. Open it or fold it down its length to create single or double bias tape as needed.

Front Neckline and Back Cut-Out Binding: ¼ double folded bias tape

Fold one bias strip in half wrong side to wrong side down its length. Press well.

Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold. Press.

Fold again down the middle line and press. When folded your double fold bias will be ¼ inch.

Sleeveless Version: ½ single fold bias tape

• Fold one bias strip in half wrong side to wrong side down its length. Press well. 
• Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden. Press. You now have ½ single folded bias tape. 

Sleeves Version (without a serger) 

Use the same strip as if doing sleeveless but fold it into ¼ inch wide double fold bias tape to bind the armhole, like we did in preparation A.

Popper/Snap Version

If you are using lightweight fabric and are planning on using a popper or snap instead of buttons and button loops, apply a small scrap of iron on interfacing to the center back section of the yoke to help stabilize the fastening.

Staystitch the Front Neckline

Stitch close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch) all the way along the front neckline. This will stop the neckline pulling out of shape as you manipulate the fabric and sew the garment.

NOTE – This step is particularly important if you’re using a light or loose weave woven fabric, or a stretch fabric. Without it, your neckline may stretch while sewing, and then it will not sit flat against the body when finished.

Transfer the notch markings to the Back piece.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approx. ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch, and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). 

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. 

Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

TIP – For gathering lighter or delicate fabrics – If you are using a lighter or delicate fabric, you might want to do your two rows of gathering stitches INSIDE the seam allowance. Do your first row just under the seam allowance. Aim to do your second row between the first row and the raw edge of the back opening.

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Locate your double folded bias tape from preparation A. 

We are now going to bind the Back cut out with your bias tape. 

Your finished Back cut out should measure the following when gathered and the binding is on (see the green line on the photo on the left):

• XXS to XXL = 13 ¼ inches (34cm)
• 3XL = 14 inches (36cm)
• 4XL = 15 inches (38cm)
• 5XL = 15 3⁄4 inches (40cm)

You can cut your bias tape to this length now if you wish, however it can be a little fiddly stitching it when it is already cut to length.

An easier option is to measure your bias tape and mark the finished length on it with pins, leaving a small amount either side (approx. 1 inch should suffice). This small amount either side is NOT included in the finished length and will hang off the ends of the Back when you attach it, then you’ll trim it off when you’ve finished. It is literally just there to make stitching easier and is not required for the finished garment.

Put aside the remaining bias tape to use later.

E.g. for size L the first pin will be approx. 1 inch from the end, the second pin will be 13 ¼ inches later. So your total strip now will be approx. 15 ¼ inches long. When it’s attached & trimmed though it will be 13 ¼ inches long as per the list of finished lengths above.

We are now going to gather the Back cut-out between the notches, so it is the same length as your bias tape (between the markings or pins on your tape). 

Back in step 1.2 you did your gathering stitches from notch to notch. Starting at one notch, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Back. You want to keep gathering until the Back cut out is the same length as your bias tape. 

E.g. the green line on your Back cut out should be the same length as your bias tape (remember not to count the little bits either side of your pins as these will be trimmed off later).

Unfold your bias tape and align one raw edge right side to right side with the curved raw edge of the Back cut-out. Spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so it looks evenly gathered. Pin

Sew along the first fold line of the bias about ¼ from the raw edge.

Cut off the excess on both sides. 

Using the tip of your scissors, clip into the seam allowance every ½ inch or so. Do not snip too close to the stitching line or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat.

Press the bias tape up and over the seam allowance and pin it just below the stitching line fully enclosing all raw edges.

From the outside, topstitch close to the edge of the bias tape making sure to catch both sides of the binding while you sew (approx. 1/8 inch from the edge). Press carefully with the tip of your iron so you don’t flatten the gathers.

Remove the gathering stitches by delicately pulling the ends of the gathering threads so that they come all the way through the hemline. Find the thread from the underside and pull this out too. Remove any loose threads you can see.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there. 

If you are doing the Rouleau Button Loops at the center back neck, follow this step. Otherwise if you are using a popper or snap instead, skip to step 3.

NOTE – An alternative option to Rouleau Button Loops is to use thin elastic instead. To do this, cut your strip the same length as the Loop pattern piece and follow from step 2.6 onwards.

To make Rouleau Button Loops, fold the Button Loops piece in half lengthways right side together and pin. Stitch down the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance leaving a long thread tail.

TIP – Use a shorter stitch length (1.5-2mm) and backstitch at both ends. 

TIP – If you are sewing a thin or delicate fabric, start sewing about ⅜ inch from the end of the strip and hold your thread firmly but delicately towards the back. This will help avoid the fabric getting stuck into the machine.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch and trim one short end diagonally as shown in the picture.

There are several ways to turn the tube right side out. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Method A. Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube.  Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely. 

Method B. Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loops turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

If you want a flat loop, press the tube. Either way, roll the seam under between your fingers.

OPTIONAL – You can top stitch down the center to give strength (but it is a little fiddly).

Cut your tube in half to create two loops.

Fold each tube in half so they form a loop.

Line up the raw edges of each loop with the short center edge of one of the main fabric Back Yokes (not Back Yoke lining). Place the loops side by side. Baste the Button Loops in place using a longer and loose stitch and a ¼ seam allowance.

Note – You need to decide at this point which side you want the Button Loops on. As you look at the back of the garment, a right handed person would normally have the button loops on the right side of the Back Yoke, a left handed person would have them on the left side of the Back Yoke. This makes it easier to do the garment up yourself.

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after basting so it’s ready for the following steps.

We are going to ‘sandwich’ the back between the Back Yoke pieces.

Place your left Back Yoke lining upside down on your table with the right side of the fabric facing up.

NOTE – If you have cut all 4 Back Yoke pieces from the same fabric, there won’t be a ‘lining’ piece. Just use the piece you want to be the left Back Yoke lining.

Place the left side of the back piece on top of the yoke, with the right side facing up. Line up the raw edges.

Place your main fabric left Back Yoke on top, right side down. This will sandwich the back in between the two left yoke pieces. 

Your Back Yoke lining right side will face the wrong side of the back piece.  Your main yoke fabric will be right side down.

Pin along the bottom of the yoke, across the short edge (center back) and along the curved edge (neckline).

TIP – When pinning along the curved part of the back neckline, be careful not to catch the back piece into your stitches. It will look a little twisted but don’t worry, once you turn it to the right side it will look just fine!

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitch along bottom of yoke, across the short edge, and back along to the neckline to sandwich the back of the dress into the yokes and to finish the back neckline. 

TIP – To get nice sharp corners on the yoke, go slowly and put the needle down when you get ½ inch from the edge. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser feet down again.

NOTE – In the photo on the left, it is the curved stitching in red that you’ll need to twist away when you sew it so that you don’t catch the back in your sewing. See step 3.5 for how you will need to twist the Back Yoke away from the back to avoid catching it.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the other side of the dress.

NOTE – If you have done Button Loops, be careful not to catch the loops in your stitches when sewing around the narrow end.

Cut the corners of the yoke off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching line or it will fray, just cut the bulk off so it’s easier when we turn it right way out).

Clip the curve of the yokes, making little snips into about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch apart.  Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of your scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

Turn the yokes right way out and press them flat. Use a blunt chopstick or a point turner to poke the narrow ends of the yoke right side out. Press.

BUTTON LOOPS OPTION – Transfer the Button Loop markings on the yoke on the opposite side to your Button Loops and stitch on two small buttons horizontal with these. 

The center of the button should be approx. ¼ inch from the edge so that the button sits fully on the yoke but is still close to the edge. 

POPPER / SNAP OPTION – Transfer the button markings on the yoke. Overlap the Back Yokes and attach your popper/snap according to manufacturer’s instructions at the same point the button markings are. 

Fold the Front piece in half right side to right side and place the Front pattern piece on top of the fabric, lining it up accurately on the wrong side of the fabric.

TIP – To transfer the pleat markings, I like to punch a small hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark either with an awl or a pin.

Using a washable marker or some tailors chalk mark the bottom of the tuck with a dot. Mark the top of the tuck. Trace a line to connect the top and the bottom of the tuck.

Stitch the tuck directly on the line 1.5 inches down from the top. Backstitch at both ends.

From the wrong side of the fabric, open the tuck and press it flat.

Baste the tuck in place along the top using a ¼ seam allowance.

Try the garment on before completing this step by holding the Front up to your model’s front. You can pin the shoulders to the shoulder seam of the garment you are wearing if you are trying it on yourself so you can get a good view in the mirror. 

Repeat steps 1.3 to 1.10 with the double fold bias tape from the preparation step. Keep the remaining bias tape for later.

NOTE – Do not cut your bias tape to length before pinning it on. There is no specific measurement. Just use as much as needed to comfortably go along the whole neckline.

We are now going to sandwich the Front shoulders between the two layers of the Back Yoke.

Position your Back piece on your table right side up.

With right sides together, place the Front left shoulder over the left Yoke aligning the raw edges at the shoulder and the bias binding edge with the neckline. 

Open the Yoke and fold back the Yoke lining over the Front shoulder and left Yoke. Pin. This will sandwich the left Front shoulder into the left Yoke and left Yoke lining.

This may look odd, but it will work out! If you are unsure, try pinning it this way, then turn it the right way out to check you’ve got it before proceeding to the next step where we stitch it.

TIP – Make very sure before you proceed to the next step that you’ve got the Front shoulder butted right up inside the Back Yokes. The seam between the Front and Back Yokes should line up with the edge of the bias tape on your Front neckline. If you don’t have this seam matched with the bias tape, you won’t get a smooth neckline when you unfold it again.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat for the right side shoulder.

Cut the corners off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching line or it will fray, just cut the bulk off so it sits nicely when we turn it right way out).

Turn the Yokes to the right side and press.

OPTIONAL – Top stitch close to the top and bottom edge (approx. ⅛ inch) of both Back Yokes.

This gives a lovely finish, however it can be a little tricky, especially around the narrow tips of the Yokes. If you have one, use a walking foot, or a Teflon coated foot to help keep traction on the fabric.

NOTE 

• If you are using a knit or stretch fabric, following the serger / overlocker option here will give the best results. You can still follow the no serger option if you prefer and bind the armhole, however it may feel a little stiff and be slightly bulky under the arm. For a woven fabric either option works.
• If you are using a bulky fabric, you may find it easier to sew the side seam first, then bind the armhole “in the round” (bind it when it has already formed a circle). To do this, skip ahead to step 9, then come back to this step afterwards.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Sleeve edge, turn it under and top stitch down. Then skip to step 9.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will now use the single fold bias from step Preparation B to bind the armhole.

Open the single fold bias and pin it along the armhole right sides together and align raw edges.

Stitch along the first fold about ¼ inch from the raw edge.

Trim the seam allowance in half (1/8 inch) and using the very tip of your scissors make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch. Go slowly and make sure you don’t cut into your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole!

Press the bias binding and the seam allowance up away from the armhole.

OPTIONAL – Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ from the edge or as close as you can.

NOTE – Understitching is where you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This will help your bias tape stay rolled to the inside so you can’t see it, and will add crispness to the armhole edges.

Fold the bias over the seam allowance just under your stitching line and fold the bias once more as you go to the wrong side. Pin in place. 

The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and won’t be seen from the right side

Edgestitch the bias to the armhole about 1/8 from the edge of the bias tape.

Run two rows of gathering stitches along the Sleeve head of each Sleeve, between the notches, like we did step 1.2.

Pin the Sleeves to the armhole starting from the sides towards the Sleeve cap. Pin both sides until you reach the gathering stitches.

Starting at one notch, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Sleeve until it is the same length as the armhole.  Pin in place.

Stitch around the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance Sleeve. Stitch the Sleeve with the gathers on top making sure there are no puckers. 

Remove the gathering stitches like we did step 1.9. Press the seam allowance towards the Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the armhole raw edge. Then skip to step 9.1.

NO SERGER – We will now do a bound seam finish around the arm to enclose all raw edges.  Locate a piece of double fold bias tape that you put aside previously. Wrap the bias tape around the seam allowance of the Sleeve and push the fabric into the fold to hide its raw edges. Pin in place.

Edgestitch the binding to the seam allowance about ⅛ from the edge. Make sure to catch the binding on both sides as you sew and that the Sleeve and shoulder are out of the way.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION 

• If you have done Sleeves, place the Sleeves and side seams right sides together and pin. Using a ½ inch seam allowance, serge the Sleeve and side seam all in one go, from wrist to hem. Skip to step 10.1.
• If you haven’t done Sleeves, place the side seams right sides together and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the side seams together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge along the sides. Backstitch at both ends.

If you have done Sleeves, follow the photo with the large flower print. You will be running your French seam all the way from the wrist down to the hemline.

If you haven’t done Sleeves, follow the photo with the small floral print. You will just be running your French seam from the underarm down to the hemline.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

If you cut the belt out in 2 sections, stitch the belt sections together at one short end right side to right side using a ½ inch seam allowance.  Press the seam allowance open.

Fold the belt in half lengthwise. Stitch down the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half and turn the tube to the right side like we did step 2.3. Press the belt rolling the seam under or on the side. Your finished belt should be ¼ inch wide.

Turn under both raw edges of the belt twice and press.

Stitch close to the folds (about ¼ inch). Press.

Make 2 belt loops by repeating steps 2.3-2.6.

Turn the raw edges of both loops under once and press. Place the loops over the side seams using the notches as a guide to position the top of the loop and pin. 

Try the dress on and adjust the height of the loops to sit on your waist. Top stitch the belt loops in place along the short edges over the side seam. 

NOTE – If you feel your belt loops are not secured enough, sew a bar tack instead of a simple edgestitch. 

To sew a bar tack, start by using a regular straight stitch from the stitching line to the edge just over the notch. Backstitch back to your starting point. Change your machine setting to a narrow and very dense zigzag stitch (2-3mm wide and 0.3-0.5mm long). Sew from your starting point to the end point.

Turn the raw edges under once and press. Place both loops over the side seams using the notches as a guide to position the top of the loop and pin. Try the dress on and adjust the height of the loops to sit on your waist. Top stitch the belt loops in place along the short edges over the side seam.

Thread the belt through the loops. Decide if you want to tie the belt in the Front or in the back.

OPTIONAL – If you want your belt to be attached to the dress so it cannot fall off, do it up so you know where it will sit, then either bartack or hand stitch the belt to the belt loops.

If possible, try the garment on at this point. Check where you would like the hem and alter if needed before continuing. If you shorten the garment, make sure to allow 1 inch to hem it.

Turn the hem under once approximately ½ inch all the way around the hem and press.

TIP – To get your hem even, try stitching a basting stitch (loose, long stitch) around your hem using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then turn under and press using your stitches as a guide.

Fold the hem under another ½ inch, press and pin. Stitch close to the edge of the fold all the way around the hem.

If you did the Sleeve, continue on to step 12.1.

If you did not do the Sleeve, you are now finished.

If possible, try the garment on at this point. Check where you would like the Sleeve to end and alter if needed before continuing. If you shorten the Sleeve, make sure to allow ¾ inch to hem it. If you are following the Sleeve elastic option, you also need to allow an additional 1-2 inches to give the Sleeve that ‘puffed’ look around the wrist. 

Turn the hem of the Sleeve under ¼ inch and press.

Turn under the Sleeve hem another ½ inch and press.

PLAIN SLEEVE HEM OPTION – Stitch around the Sleeve hem. You are now finished.

GATHERED SLEEVE HEM OPTION – Stitch around the Sleeve hem, leaving a 1 inch gap to insert the elastic (optional). Then continue below.

If you have your model available, check the length of the elastic on their wrist before continuing. If not, use the approximate lengths in the cutting sections.

Pin one end of your elastic securely close to the casing opening.  This stops it slipping into the wrist as you feed the elastic through.

Attach a safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Then feed the elastic through the little opening you left and all the way around the wrist.

When your safety pin gets back to the beginning, feed it back out of the wrist through the same hole. Gently ease the fabric around the elastic so it is gathered all the way around the wrist.

Pin the elastic end together and stitch using a zigzag stitch on your machine several times. Let the elastic slip inside the casing. 

Find the gap you left at the wrist to insert the elastic through, and stitch it closed. Pull the gathered fabric away from this area in order to be able to stitch without catching any other fabric.