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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
27
Women's Summer Maxi Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Update your wardrobe with effortless style! The Summer Maxi Dress sewing pattern is a loose-fitting, breezy dress with a slightly dipped back hem, V-neck, and keyhole detailing. The three sleeve options and two length options make it suitable for all-season wearing.
Includes Women’s Sizes 1-10, and Women’s Curvy Sizes 6C-15C.
Note – The pattern is modeled here in our Women’s sizing. This pattern includes both our Women’s 1-10 AND Women’s Curvy 6C-15C sizing (you get all the sizes).
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
- Height adjustments – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length at different locations throughout the Dress. Follow this tutorial to make adjustments.
- Bust adjustments –
- The Women’s Regular pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. If the difference of your measurement is 3 inches, this is a sewing C cup. If the difference is more than 3 inches, you will need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial. If your bust is below a sewing C cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- The Women’s Curvy pattern is designed for a sewing E cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear D cup). The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. If the difference of your measurement is 5 inches, this is a sewing E cup. If the difference is more than 5 inches, you will need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial. If your bust is below a sewing E cup, you do not necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, after assembling the bodice of your muslin, check that the chest area fits well.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. As the sleeve is not tight fitting, it is unlikely you will need to make any adjustments. Once you have made your muslin, if you feel you need to adjust the bicep, follow this tutorial.
- Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length halfway down the sleeve.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Bust, Front Neck Panel, Back Neck Panel, Center Front, Side Front, Side Back, Center Back, and OPTIONAL Sleeves. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 2x ⅜ inch wide Buttons
- OPTIONAL Iron on interfacing – approximately 0.75 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Bias Binding – 1.5 inches wide double fold bias
- Sleeveless OPTION – approximately 2.00 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Long Sleeve OPTION – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Bust Edge – approximately 2.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Frill – approximately 4.0 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – If you are buying bias tape, you will need ⅜ inch wide double fold bias tape.
- Thread to match
- Bust – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Neck Panel – Fabric cut 2 on fold, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 on fold
- Back Neck Panel – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Button Loops – Fabric cut 1
- Center Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Side Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Frill – Fabric cut 3
- NOTE – If you are using 45 inch / 115cm wide fabric you will need to change the Frill grainline to the opposite direction to the pattern piece, in order for it to fit.
- OPTIONAL Short Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Long Sleeve:
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Wrist Bow – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2
Project OverviewSummer Maxi Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful flowing loose fitting maxi dress with a slightly dipped back hem has a v-shape neckline with a gathered bust at the front and a keyhole at the back. The back side seam and center back seam are shaped into the small of the back, then flared out. Sew a sleeveless option, or gathered short sleeves, or a gathered long sleeve with cuff and optional wrist bows.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
1
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
2
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
3
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
4
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
5
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
6
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
7
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
8
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
9
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
10
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
6C
44.0
112.0
37.7
96.0
65.0
165.0
7C
47.0
119.0
40.7
103.0
68.0
173.0
8C
50.0
127.0
44.7
113.5
71.0
180.0
9C
53.0
135.0
48.7
124.0
74.5
189.0
10C
56.0
142.0
52.7
134.0
78.0
198.0
11C
60.0
152.0
56.7
144.0
81.5
207.0
12C
64.0
162.5
60.7
154.0
85.0
216.0
13C
68.0
173.0
64.7
164.0
89.0
226.0
14C
72.0
183.0
68.7
174.5
93.0
236.0
15C
76.0
193.0
72.7
185.0
97.0
246.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Bicep
Short sleeve length
Long sleeve length
Long sleeve Cuff
1
32.0
29.5
47.5
55.0
15.5
10.0
25.1
8.3
2
34.0
31.5
49.5
55.0
16.2
10.2
25.5
8.3
3
36.0
32.5
51.5
55.0
17.0
10.5
25.7
8.3
4
38.0
34.5
53.5
55.0
18.0
11.0
26.1
8.3
5
40.0
36.5
55.5
55.0
18.6
11.3
26.5
8.3
6
43.0
39.5
58.5
55.0
19.5
11.6
26.7
8.7
7
46.0
42.5
61.5
55.0
20.3
12.0
27.1
8.7
8
49.0
46.5
64.5
55.0
21.1
12.5
27.5
9.3
9
52.0
50.5
67.5
55.0
22.0
13.0
27.7
9.3
10
55.0
54.5
70.5
55.0
23.0
13.2
28.1
9.3
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Bicep
Short sleeve length
Long sleeve length
Long sleeve Cuff
6C
44.0
37.7
65.0
55.0
18.0
12.0
27.0
8.3
7C
47.0
40.7
68.0
55.0
19.3
12.1
27.2
8.5
8C
50.0
44.7
71.0
55.0
20.7
12.5
27.4
9.0
9C
53.0
48.7
74.5
55.0
22.1
12.8
27.6
9.3
10C
56.0
52.7
78.0
55.0
23.5
13.1
28.0
9.7
11C
60.0
56.7
81.5
55.0
25.3
13.4
28.1
10.1
12C
64.0
60.7
85.0
55.0
27.1
14.0
28.2
10.1
13C
68.0
64.7
89.0
55.0
29.0
14.2
28.5
10.5
14C
72.0
68.7
93.0
55.0
31.0
14.6
28.7
10.5
15C
76.0
72.7
97.0
55.0
33.0
15.2
29.0
11.0
Fitting NotesThis maxi dress has a slight dipped hem at the back finishing mid-calf, with the front finishing under the knee. If adding the frill, the front sits at ankle length, the back drops to the floor. The front has a low plunge sitting just above the bra bridge. The dress is shaped into the back at the center and side seams.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric such as a bubble crepe, viscose challis, rayon, cotton lawn, cotton voile, silk, silk crepe, crepe de chine, or silk satin will drape.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless OPTION
Short sleeve OPTION
Long sleeve OPTION
OPTIONAL Frill
1
2.75
3.00
3.00
1.75
2
2.75
3.00
3.25
1.75
3
2.75
3.00
3.50
1.75
4
3.00
3.25
3.50
1.75
5
3.00
3.25
3.75
1.75
6
3.00
3.25
3.75
1.75
7
3.00
3.50
4.00
1.75
8
3.25
3.50
4.25
1.75
9
3.25
3.75
4.25
1.75
10
3.25
3.75
4.25
1.75
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless OPTION
Short sleeve OPTION
Long sleeve OPTION
OPTIONAL Frill
6C
3.50
3.75
4.25
1.75
7C
3.50
4.00
4.50
1.75
8C
3.50
4.00
4.50
1.75
9C
3.50
4.00
5.00
1.75
10C
4.00
4.50
5.25
1.75
11C
4.00
4.50
5.50
1.75
12C
4.00
5.00
5.75
2.00
13C
4.00
5.00
5.75
2.00
14C
4.50
5.25
6.00
2.00
15C
4.50
5.25
6.00
2.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless OPTION
Short sleeve OPTION
Long sleeve OPTION
OPTIONAL Frill
1
2.25
2.25
2.50
1.25
2
2.25
2.25
2.75
1.25
3
2.25
2.25
2.75
1.25
4
2.25
2.25
2.75
1.25
5
2.25
2.25
3.00
1.25
6
2.25
2.25
3.00
1.25
7
2.50
2.50
3.00
1.25
8
2.50
2.50
3.25
1.25
9
2.75
2.75
3.50
1.25
10
2.75
2.75
3.75
1.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless OPTION
Short sleeve OPTION
Long sleeve OPTION
OPTIONAL Frill
6C
2.75
3.00
3.50
1.25
7C
2.75
3.00
3.50
1.25
8C
2.75
3.00
3.50
1.25
9C
3.00
3.50
4.00
1.25
10C
3.00
3.50
4.00
1.25
11C
3.00
3.50
4.00
1.25
12C
3.00
4.00
4.50
1.50
13C
3.25
4.00
4.50
1.50
14C
3.50
4.00
5.00
1.50
15C
3.50
4.25
5.00
1.50
NOTE – The Frill grainline will need to be in the opposite direction to the pattern piece, in order for it to fit across a 45 inch / 115cm wide fabric.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Dress OPTIONAL Frill OPTIONAL Long sleeve OPTIONAL Short sleeve OPTIONAL Wrist Bow 1 – 2 2-24, 28-33, 41 38-44, 48-54 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-25, 34-35 42-44 3 – 4 2-24, 28-33, 41 38-44, 48-54 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-25, 34-35, 45 42-44 5 – 6 2-24, 28-33, 41 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-25, 34-35, 45 42-44 7 2-24, 28-33, 41 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-25, 34-35, 45 42-44 8 – 10 2-24, 28-33, 40-41 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-26, 34-36, 45 42-44 Sleeve Dress OPTIONAL Frill OPTIONAL Long Sleeve Cuff OPTIONAL Wrist Bow Short Long 6C-7C 2-3, 9-13, 19-23, 31-54, 57-62 55-62, 64-71 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 8C-9C 2-3, 9-13, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-62, 64-71 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 10C 2-3, 9-14, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-62, 64-71 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 11C 2-4, 9-14, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-62, 64-71 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 12C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-62, 64-71 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 13C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-72 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 14C-15C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-54, 57-62 55-72 29-30 29-31 4-8, 14-18 4-8, 14-18, 25-28 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Dress OPTIONAL Frill OPTIONAL Long sleeve OPTIONAL Short sleeve OPTIONAL Wrist Bow 1 – 4 2-23, 28-33 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 46-47 24-25, 34-35 31-33 5 – 8 2-24, 28-33 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-25, 34-35, 45 31-33 9 – 10 2-24, 28-33 38-45, 48-55 24-27, 34-37, 45-47 24-26, 34-36, 45 31-33 Sleeve Dress OPTIONAL Frill OPTIONAL Long Sleeve Cuff OPTIONAL Wrist Bow Short Long 6C 2-3, 9-13, 19, 21-23, 31-55 56-63, 65-72 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 7C-8C 2-3, 9-13, 19-23, 31-55 56-63, 65-72 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 9C-10C 2-3, 9-14, 19-24, 31-55 56-63, 65-72 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 11C 2-4, 9-14, 19-24, 31-55 56-63, 65-72 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 12C-13C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-55 56-73 29-30 29-31 5-8, 15-18 5-8, 15-18, 25-28 14C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-55 56-73 29-30 29-31 5-9, 15-19 5-9, 15-19, 25-28 15C 2-4, 8-14, 19-24, 31-55 56-73 29-30 29-31 4-9, 14-19 4-9, 14-19, 25-28 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Long sleeve
Button loops
(Fabric cut 1)OPTIONAL Frill
(Fabric cut 3)Cuff (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing
cut 2)OPTIONAL Wrist bow (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
1
4.3
9.3
3.0
27.7
0.75
4.0
13.0
52.3
2
4.3
9.3
3.0
28.6
0.75
4.0
13.0
53.3
3
4.3
9.3
3.0
29.4
0.75
4.0
13.0
54.1
4
4.3
9.3
3.0
30.2
0.75
4.0
13.0
55.0
5
4.3
9.3
3.0
31.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
55.5
6
4.3
9.7
3.0
31.7
0.75
4.0
13.0
56.1
7
4.3
9.7
3.0
32.5
0.75
4.0
13.0
56.7
8
4.3
10.3
3.0
33.3
0.75
4.0
13.0
57.3
9
4.3
10.3
3.0
34.1
0.75
4.0
13.0
58.0
10
4.3
10.3
3.0
35.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
58.5
OPTIONAL Long sleeve
Button loops
(Fabric cut 1)OPTIONAL Frill
(Fabric cut 3)Cuff (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2)
OPTIONAL Wrist bow (Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
6C
4.3
9.3
3.0
32.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
55.4
7C
4.3
9.5
3.0
32.4
0.75
4.0
13.0
56.5
8C
4.3
10.0
3.0
33.2
0.75
4.0
13.0
57.6
9C
4.3
10.3
3.0
34.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
59.0
10C
4.3
10.7
3.0
35.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
60.2
11C
4.3
11.1
3.0
36.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
61.5
12C
4.3
11.1
3.0
36.0
0.75
4.0
13.0
63.0
13C
4.3
11.5
3.0
36.4
0.75
4.0
13.0
64.1
14C
4.3
11.5
3.0
36.4
0.75
4.0
13.0
65.4
15C
4.3
12.0
3.0
37.2
0.75
4.0
13.0
66.7
NOTE – If you are using 45 inch / 115cm wide fabric you will need to change the Frill grainline to the opposite direction to the pattern piece, in order for it to fit.
Bias Binding
Sleeveless OPTION
(Cut 2 on the bias)Bust edge (Cut 2 on the bias)
Long sleeve OPTION (Cut 2 on bias)
OPTIONAL Frill
(Cut 1 on bias)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
1
1.5
14.5
1.5
31.5
1.5
7.7
1.5
78.5
2
1.5
15.3
1.5
32.7
1.5
8.1
1.5
80.0
3
1.5
16.0
1.5
34.0
1.5
8.5
1.5
81.5
4
1.5
16.7
1.5
35.3
1.5
9.0
1.5
84.5
5
1.5
17.4
1.5
36.6
1.5
9.3
1.5
87.0
6
1.5
18.4
1.5
38.0
1.5
9.7
1.5
90.0
7
1.5
19.5
1.5
39.2
1.5
10.1
1.5
92.5
8
1.5
20.5
1.5
40.5
1.5
10.5
1.5
95.0
9
1.5
21.5
1.5
42.0
1.5
11.0
1.5
99.0
10
1.5
22.4
1.5
43.2
1.5
11.3
1.5
99.5
Bias Binding
Sleeveless OPTION
(Cut 2 on the bias)Bust edge (Cut 2 on the bias)
Long sleeve OPTION (Cut 2 on bias)
OPTIONAL Frill (Cut 1 on bias)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
6C
1.5
19.1
1.5
32.2
1.5
9.3
1.5
94.0
7C
1.5
20.3
1.5
33.6
1.5
9.5
1.5
97.0
8C
1.5
21.4
1.5
36.0
1.5
10.0
1.5
102.0
9C
1.5
22.4
1.5
38.0
1.5
10.3
1.5
106.0
10C
1.5
23.6
1.5
40.0
1.5
10.7
1.5
109.4
11C
1.5
25.2
1.5
42.0
1.5
11.1
1.5
113.2
12C
1.5
27.0
1.5
44.0
1.5
11.1
1.5
117.0
13C
1.5
28.7
1.5
46.2
1.5
11.5
1.5
121.0
14C
1.5
30.4
1.5
48.2
1.5
11.5
1.5
124.6
15C
1.5
32.1
1.5
50.4
1.5
12.0
1.5
129.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to wrong side of pieces.
- BIAS BINDING – If you are not using store bought binding, follow our free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create your double fold bias binding.
- GATHERING – Stitch gathering stitches on the Bust pieces in between the markings. SLEEVE OPTIONS: Stitch gathering stitches along top edge of both Sleeves. LONG SLEEVE: Stitch gathering stitches along bottom edge of both Sleeves stopping ½ inch from either edge.
- DRESS CONSTRUCTION – Stitch Side Back and Center Back together using a French seam. Repeat for second Side Back and Center Back. LONG OR SHORT SLEEVE OPTION: Stitch front armscye of Sleeve onto Front Bust using a French seam. Stitch the back armscye onto the Side Back using a French seam. Repeat for second Sleeve. Press Center Back ¼ inch to wrong side from top edge to pattern marking of keyhole. Repeat. Topstitch down, tapering in towards the folded edge at the bottom. Repeat on other Center Back piece.
- SLEEVELESS OPTION: ARMSCYE – Bind the armscyes of the Bust pieces to the inside.
- NECK PANEL – Lay mirror image Back Neck Panels right sides together. Stitch top raw edge. Press seam open. Lay Front Panel right side up. Place Back Neck Panel right side down, matching straight short edges. Stitch. Fold Neck Panel in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press. Repeat with second mirror image Back and Front Neck Panel pieces. Fold Button Loop in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Trim seam in half. Turn and press. Cut in half. Lay Neck Panel open flat and right side up. Place Button Loops at pattern markings, matching raw edges. Baste. Fold Back Neck Panel right sides together. Pin short straight edge, sandwiching Button Loops. Stitch. Trim corner. Turn Neck Panel right sides out. Press. Fold Neck Panel ½ inch towards wrong side along inside edge. Press. Repeat, attaching the other two mirror image Back Neck Panels together, then attaching it to the mirror image Front Neck Panel.
- SLEEVELESS OPTION: SHOULDERS – Lay right as worn Back piece right side up. Place right as worn Neck Panel (with Button Loops), right sides together, matching pattern markings. Pin outer only. Stitch. Place Front of Neck Panel onto Bust, right sides together, matching pattern markings. Stitch. Fold raw edge of Neck Panel in between Bust and Back, ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold Neck Panel in half, wrong sides together. Topstitch. Press. Repeat on other side of dress.
- FRONT – Stitch Side Front onto the Center Front using a French seam. Repeat to attach the second Side Front onto the other side of the Center Front.
- BACK – Stitch Center Back together using a French seam.
- SLEEVED OPTION: NECK – Lay left as worn dress right side up. Place left as worn Neck Panel onto neckline, right side down, matching raw edges. Pin. Gently gather Sleeve to fit Neck Panel. Stitch. Remove gathering stitches. Press seam up. Fold Neck Panel onto wrong side, enclosing seams. Pin. Stitch in the ditch. Repeat to attach right as worn Neck Panel to right as worn dress.
- BUST TO FRONT – Pin Bust onto Front, at side seam. Pin the Neck Panel ½ inch away from V-shape. Gently gather Bust. Pin. Repeat to attach second Bust to other side of Front. Stitch. Press seam down. Bind both seams.
- SIDE SEAMS – SLEEVELESS OPTION: Stitch Front and Back together at the side seams using a French seam. SLEEVED OPTION: Stitch Sleeve and Front and Back together at the side seams using a French seam.
- SHORT SLEEVE OPTION: HEM – Fold ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. Repeat for second Sleeve.
- LONG SLEEVE OPTION – Fold Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Press seam open. Fold Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin raw edges. Gather bottom raw edge to fit width of Cuff. Place Cuff over Sleeve right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch. Turn wrong sides out and press seam up. Bind seam. Press seam up. Repeat for second Long Sleeve and Cuff. OPTIONAL WRIST BOWS: Fold Wrist Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch both short edges and the long edge, leaving a 1-inch gap along the long straight edge. Trim corners. Turn right side out and press. Use a slipstitch to stitch the gap closed. Find and mark center of Wrist Bow and Cuff. Hand stitch Wrist Bow onto Cuff, matching centers. Tie. Repeat for the second Wrist Bow.
- OPTIONAL FRILL – Stitch all three pieces together using a French seam. Gather stitch one long edge. Mark this edge into quarters. Mark the dress hem into quarters. Gather to meet.
- HEM – Fold ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat. Topstitch.
- BUTTONS – Hand stitch buttons at pattern markings.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Neck Panel pieces, using the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are adding Long Sleeves, add to the Cuffs.
0.3OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding. Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create double fold bias binding.
1 . Gathering1.1You are going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings on the Bust pieces (shown with pins).
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Bust and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all the leftover bobbin threads!
Repeat steps on the second Bust piece.
If you are adding Short Sleeves, follow below. If you are adding Long Sleeves, skip to step 1.4. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Sleeves, skip to step 2.
1.2SHORT SLEEVE OPTION: Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 to gather the top edges of both Short Sleeves.
1.3LONG SLEEVE OPTION: Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 to gather the top edges of the Long Sleeves.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 to gather the bottom edges of the Long Sleeves, stopping ½ inch on either side.
2 . Dress Construction2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Side Back and Center Back pieces right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the side. Repeat to attach the second Side Back and Center Back pieces together. LONG OR SHORT SLEEVE OPTION: Place the front armscye of the Sleeve onto the Front Bust, right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press towards the Sleeve. Repeat to stitch the back armscye to the Side Back. Repeat for the second Sleeve. Skip to step 2.13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of your dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
2.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place the Side Back and Center Back pieces together. Pin.
2.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
2.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
2.5Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
2.6Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
2.7Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 to attach the other Side Back and Center Back pieces.
If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, skip to step 2.13. If you are sewing a Short or Long Sleeve OPTION, follow below.
2.8LONG OR SHORT SLEEVE OPTION: Place the front armscye of the Sleeve onto the Front Bust, wrong sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The Sleeve pieces are not symmetrical, check that you are attaching the front of the Sleeve to the Front Bust.
2.9Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again with right sides together at ¼ inch.
Press.
2.10Place the back armscye of the Sleeve onto the Side Back, wrong sides together and pin.
NOTE – The photos show the Long Sleeve OPTION, however the steps are the same for the Short Sleeve OPTION.
2.11Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
2.12Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.11 to attach the second Sleeve to the other side of the dress.
2.13Fold the Center Back ¼ inch to the wrong side from the top edge to the pattern marking of the keyhole. Press.
2.14Fold another ¼ inch and press again.
2.15Topstitch from the top edge down towards the end of the pressed edge, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, tapering in towards the folded edge at the bottom.
Repeat steps 2.13 to 2.15 on the other Center Back piece.
If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, follow below. If you are sewing a Short or Long Sleeve dress, skip to step 4.
3 . Sleeveless OPTION: Armscye3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the armscye on the Bust without removing any seam allowance. Fold ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance. Repeat for the second Bust piece, and both back armscyes. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use double fold bias binding to finish the raw edges of the front and back armscye on the Bust pieces.
3.1Lay the Bust right side up. Starting at the side seam, pin the binding along the armscye, right sides together, matching raw edges.
3.2Stitch along the first fold.
3.3Hold the binding away from the Bust. Trim the Bust seam allowance approximately ⅛ of an inch.
3.4Clip the curves around the armscye, being very careful not to cut into the stitching.
Press the binding and seam allowance away from the armscye.
3.5Fold the binding over to the wrong side, enclosing all raw edges. The binding will now be on the inside. Pin.
3.6Edge stitch the binding to the armscye about ⅛ inch from the edge of the binding to hold it in place.
The bias binding should now be totally attached to the armscye on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.
Press.
3.7Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 on the other Bust armscye.
3.8Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 on both back armscyes.
4 . Neck Panel4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay an interfaced Back Neck Panel right sides together with a non-interfaced Back Neck Panel matching the top raw edge. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to the back. Lay the Front Panel right side up. Place the Back Neck Panel right side down, matching straight short edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Fold the Neck Panel in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press. Repeat with the second mirror image Back and Front Neck Panel pieces. Skip to step 4.7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Lay an interfaced Back Neck Panel right sides together with a non-interfaced Back Neck Panel right sides together, matching the top raw edge. Pin.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.3Press the seam allowance open.
TIP – Clip into the curve to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into your stitching.
4.4Lay the Front Panel right side up. Place the Back Neck Panel right side down, matching straight short edges. Pin.
4.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
4.6Fold the Neck Panel in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.6 with the second mirror image Back and Front Neck Panel pieces.
4.7Fold the Button Loop in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin.
4.8Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
4.9Turn right side out and press.
There are several ways to turn the Button Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.
METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
4.10Cut the Button Loop in half, creating two Button Loop pieces.
4.11Lay the Neck Panel open flat and right side up. Place the Button Loops at the pattern markings on the Back, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – This is the right as worn piece.
4.12Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4.13Fold the Back Neck Panel right sides together. Pin the short straight edge, sandwiching the Button Loops.
4.14Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.15Trim the corner to reduce bulk.
4.16Turn the Neck Panel right sides out.
4.17Press.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Neck Panel piece. This is the right as worn piece.
4.18Fold the Neck Panel ½ inch towards the wrong side along the inside edge. Press, creating a memory hem.
NOTE – The inside edge is the interfaced side, or if you haven’t added interfacing, it will be the side you are attaching to the dress.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Neck Panel. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Neck Panel hem later when it is stitched onto the dress.
Repeat steps 4.13 to 4.18, attaching the other two mirror image Back Neck Panels together, then attaching it to the mirror image Front Neck Panel. This will become the left as worn Neck Panel.
If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, follow below. If you are adding Sleeves, skip to step 6.
5 . Sleeveless OPTION: Shoulders5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the right as worn Back piece right side up. Place the right as worn Neck Panel (with Button Loops), right sides together with the right as worn Neck Panel. Match the pattern marking on the Back Neck Panel to the armscye on the Back piece. Pin the outer side only. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place the Front of the Neck Panel onto the Bust, right sides together, matching pattern marking on the Neck Panel to the top corner of the Bust. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Lay the right as worn Back piece right side up. Place the right as worn Neck Panel (with Button Loops), right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Neck Panel to the armscye on the Back piece. Pin the outer side only.
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.3Place the Front of the Neck Panel onto the Bust, right sides together, matching the pattern marking on the Neck Panel to the top corner of the Bust. Pin.
5.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.5Fold the raw edge of the Neck Panel in between the Bust and Back, ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
5.6Fold the Neck Panel in half, wrong sides together. Pin.
5.7Topstitch the Neck Panel using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. This will close the gap on the Neck Panel between the Bust and the Back.
Press.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.7 on the other side of the dress.
6 . Front6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Side Front onto the Center Front right sides together. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Side Front onto the other side of the Center Front. Skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Place the Side Front onto the Center Front wrong sides together. Pin.
6.2Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to attach the other Side Front onto the other side of the Center Front.
NOTE – This will now be called the Front.
7 . Back7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the two Center Back pieces wrong sides together. Pin from the bottom of the keyhole down to the hem. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 8 for the Sleeved OPTION or skip to step 9 for the sleeveless OPTION.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Place the two Center Back pieces wrong sides together. Pin from the bottom of the keyhole down to the hem.
NOTE – The photos show a Long Sleeve, however the steps are the same for a sleeveless dress.
7.2Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
NOTE – This will now be called the Back.
If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, skip to step 9. If you are adding Sleeves, follow below.
8 . Sleeved OPTION: Neck8.0This step is the same for either Sleeve OPTION.
8.1Lay the left as worn dress right side up. Place the left as worn Neck Panel (without Button Loops) onto the neckline, right side down, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the raw edge of the Neck Panel, opposite to the memory hem edge.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather the Sleeve to fit the Neck Panel, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.
8.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.
8.3Press the seam up towards the Neck Panel.
8.4Fold the Neck Panel onto the wrong side of the dress, enclosing the seams. Pin.
8.5You will be “stitching in the ditch” so that there aren’t any visible stitches. Stitch directly along the seam line of the Neck Panel. This creates a neat and pretty finish.
Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 to attach the right as worn Neck Panel (with Button Loops) to the right as worn dress.
9 . Bust to Front9.0This step is the same for all options.
9.1Place the pointed side seam edge of the Bust onto the Front side seam right sides together. Extend the pointed Bust edge a ½ inch past the Front side seam creating a little triangle. Pin. This will ensure the pieces will align exactly once sewn.
Place the Neck Panel a ½ inch away from the V-shape on the Front. Pin.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather the Bust to fit onto the Front, then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.
NOTE – The Bust piece will need to be eased on and stitched at the ½ inch seam allowance in order to get it to align correctly.
9.2Repeat step 9.1 to attach the second Bust to the other side of the Front.
9.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.4Press the seam down.
9.5You will be binding this seam. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Lay the Front with the Bust to the Front wrong sides together. Pin the binding along one bust edge, right side down, matching raw edges. Leave an extra ½ inch of the binding at the V-neck.
9.6Stitch along the first fold.
9.7Hold the binding away from the Bust. Trim the Bust seam allowance approximately ⅛ of an inch.
9.8Press the binding and seam allowance away from the armscye.
9.9Fold the binding over to the wrong side, enclosing all raw edges. Pin.
9.10Edge stitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
Repeat steps 9.5 to 9.10 to bind the second bust edge.
NOTE – When stitching the second binding, stop stitching ½ inch before the end of the binding.
9.11Fold the ½ inch on the second binding under the first binding, folding the first binding over. Pin.
9.12Hand stitch the two pieces together in a U shape to secure.
NOTE – You are only stitching through the binding, not the dress.
10 . Side Seams10.0If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, follow below. If you are sewing a Short or Long Sleeve OPTION, skip to step 10.2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – SLEEVELESS OPTION: Pin the sides of the dress right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams towards the back. SHORT OR LONG SLEEVE OPTION: Place the dress wrong sides together along the Sleeve and side seams. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams towards the back. Skip to step 11 for the Short Sleeve OPTION, or step 12 for the Long Sleeve OPTION, or to step 13 for the OPTIONAL Frill, or to step 14 if not adding any of these options.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
10.1SLEEVELESS OPTION: Pin the sides of the dress wrong sides together.
Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat on the other side of the dress.
10.2SHORT OR LONG SLEEVE OPTION: Place the dress wrong sides together along the Sleeve and side seam. Pin.
NOTE – The photos show the Long Sleeve, however the steps are the same for the Short Sleeve.
10.3Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – LONG SLEEVE OPTION: Keep the tails of the gathering stitches out of the seam as you stitch. You will need these to gather the bottom edge.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat on the other Sleeve and Side.
If you are doing the Short Sleeve OPTION, follow below. If you are doing the Long Sleeve OPTION, skip to step 12.
11 . Short Sleeve OPTION: Hem11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem without removing any seam allowance. Fold it ½ to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the second Sleeve. Skip to step 13 for the OPTIONAL Frill, or to step 14 if not adding the OPTIONAL Frill.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
11.1Fold the hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
11.2Fold another ¼ inch. Press.
11.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
11.4Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 for the second Sleeve.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Frill, skip to step 13. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Frill, skip to step 14.
12 . Long Sleeve OPTION12.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Follow steps 12.4 to 12.6. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the dress wrong sides out. Press the seam up towards the Long Sleeve. Serge the Cuff raw edge to finish the raw edges. Repeat for the second Long Sleeve and Cuff. Skip to step 12.10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
12.1Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin.
12.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.3Press the seam allowance open.
12.4Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin the raw edges.
12.5Gather the bottom raw edge of the Long Sleeve to fit the width of the Cuff. Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather, and then gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.
12.6Place the Cuff over the Long Sleeve right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
12.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
12.8Turn the dress wrong sides out. Press the seam up towards the Long Sleeve.
12.9You will be binding this seam. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Place the binding onto the Cuff, right sides together, matching raw edges. Fold the short straight edge of the binding ¼ to the wrong side. Pin.
Then overlap the other side of the binding ½ inch, covering this folded edge.
Repeat steps 9.6 to 9.10 to bind the raw edge of the Cuff.
Press the seam allowance up towards the Long Sleeve.
Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.11 for the second Long Sleeve and Cuff.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Wrist Bows, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL Wrist Bows, skip to step 13 for the OPTIONAL Frill, or skip to step 14.
12.10OPTIONAL WRIST BOWS: Fold the Wrist Bow in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin both short edges and the long edge.
12.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1-inch gap along the long straight edge for turning out.
12.12Trim the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
12.13Turn the Wrist Bow right sides out through the gap.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
12.14Press the Wrist Bow.
12.15Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed.
Fold your fabric under by ½ inch. You will be stitching along this folded edge.
Thread your needle, tying the two-thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.
Push your needle up from the inside of the Wrist Bow to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.
Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.
Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
12.16Find and mark the center of the Wrist Bow. Find and mark the center of the Cuff, opposite side of the side seam.
12.17Place the Wrist Bow onto the Cuff, matching centers. Pin.
Hand stitch the Wrist Bow to the Cuff.
12.18Tie the Wrist Bow into a bow.
Repeat steps 12.10 to 12.18 for the second Wrist Bow.
13 . OPTIONAL Frill13.0If you are not doing the OPTIONAL Frill, skip to step 14.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Frill pieces right sides together, matching a short side. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to stitch the third Frill piece to both short sides of this Frill piece, creating a circle. Follow steps 13.3 to 13.5. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 14.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – For the OPTIONAL Frill instructions, follow below.
13.1Place two Frill pieces wrong sides together, matching a short side. Pin.
13.2Stitch together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 2.1 to 2.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.3 to stitch the third Frill piece to both short sides of this Frill piece, creating a circle.
13.3Repeat steps 1.1 to gather stitch one long edge of the Frill.
Find and mark the quarter points of this edge of the Frill, and the hem edge of the dress.
13.4Place the Frill onto the Skirt, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Gently pull on both bobbin threads, to gather the stitches.
Gently use your fingers to evenly spread out the gathers, until the Frill is gathered evenly between the quarter points. Pin.
13.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.
13.6You will be binding this seam. Alternatively, you can serge the seam to finish the edges.
Place the binding onto the Frill, right sides together, matching raw edges. Fold the short straight edge of the binding ¼ to the wrong side. Pin.
13.7Pin the binding all the way along the seam line of the Frill, overlapping the binding approximately ½ inch.
Trim the excess bias tape.
Stitch along the first fold. Your stitching should be directly on top of the Frill seam.
13.8Fold the binding over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.
13.9Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the ruffle.
14 . Hem14.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem without removing any seam allowance. Fold it ½ to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
14.1Fold the hem of the dress or the OPTIONAL Frill if added, ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
14.2Fold another ¼ inch. Press.
14.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
15 . Buttons