Talia Tunic and Dress

Talia Tunic & Dress

Difficulty Level = Beginner

An A-line loose fitting tunic or dress. It features spaghetti straps and gathers at the center front and center back for an added flair.  A wardrobe staple for the warmer days and the perfect pair to the Talia Twist Top.

The spaghetti straps can be finished using the fabric strap pattern pieces provided, or by using fold over elastic (FOE). There are no fastenings and it simply pulls on.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. 
• Selecting Size – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick based on your chest measurement. That way, the armscye, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print the sizes for both your chest and waist and grade either using a smooth curve to connect the two sizes.
• Adjusting Bust – We design for a C cup bust but have found cup sizes A to D fit well without adjustment. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are in the link at the bottom of this section.
• Adjusting Height – This top is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to add/remove length throughout the length of the pattern.  Adjusting strap length, just below bust, and just above the hem will distribute the height changes without changing the look of the garment.  
• Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the tunic and straps. Label each piece with tailors chalk or a fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste it together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

• Fabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastine/lycra, and silk jersey with elastine/lycra. These will give you a lovely drape and swing. Do not use a woven fabric.
• Binding – If you are going to use the same fabric for the binding as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). 
• Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL – You can either bind the Talia with the same fabric you use for your dress using the pattern pieces or measurements included, or you can use fold over elastic (FOE) for the binding. If you wish to use FOE, you will need 2-3 yards. Exact lengths are as per the chart above.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

For most sizes, the strap binding length is longer than 60 inches, and won’t fit across the width of most knit fabrics.  If you are choosing to bind with fabric, piece together strips to reach the correct length.  

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front – Cut 1
• Back – Cut 1
• Front Binding – Cut 1
• Strap Binding – Cut 1

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings to fabric. 

Sewing –

1. SIDE SEAMS – Right sides together, pin Front to Back at side seams and stitch. 
2. BINDING OPTION – Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the markings on the Front and Back pieces. With both pieces wrong sides up, pin Front Binding at each end of the neckline. Gather threads to match the Front to the Binding length. Pin remaining Binding along neckline and stitch. Press seam allowance up. Fold raw edge of Binding down to meet raw edge of neckline. Fold Binding again to encase raw edges. Stitch close to the folded edge of Binding. Find center of Strap Binding and Back bodice. Gather Back bodice to the length in the chart at step 2.11. Wrong sides facing up, pin the Strap Binding to the Back, matching the center points.  Continuing pinning along entire Back and underarms.  Stitch and press seam allowance up.  Also press the seam allowance along entire Strap Binding.  Press the raw edge down to center of Binding.  Fold again, encasing raw edges.  Stitch close to the folded edge of Binding, all the way from the end of one strap, across the back, and down the other strap.  
3. FOLD OVER ELASTIC (FOE) OPTION – Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the markings on the Front and Back pieces.  Cut your FOE the same length as the Front Binding piece.  Press FOE in half.  Pin FOE at each end of the neckline, with the raw edge of the Front Bodice inside the folded elastic.  Gather threads to match the Front to the FOE length.  Pin remaining FOE along neckline and sew close to the bottom edge of the FOE.  Cut FOE to same length as Strap Binding and press in half.  Find center of Strap FOE and Back bodice.  Gather Back bodice to the length in the chart at step 3.10.  Matching center points, pin FOE to Back piece, with the raw edge of the Back inside your folded elastic.  Continue pinning FOE to the Back, and up the armscye on the Front.  Stitch close to the bottom edge of FOE, all the way from the end of one Strap, across the Back, and down the other Strap. 
4. ATTACH STRAPS – Fold bottom of Strap ⅜ inch to the wrong side. Pin at marking on Back piece. Sew in place. Repeat for second Strap. 
5. HEM – Press hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Sew hem. 

Congratulations, your Talia Tunic and Dress is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptaliatunicanddress.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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