Talia Twist Top

Talia Twist Top

Difficulty Level = Beginner

A cropped length top with a twist front meant to be worn over another top. It’s the perfect companion to the Talia Tunic and Dress or the Strappy Cami. It has three sleeve length options, making it perfect to carry you through the seasons.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. 
• Selecting Bodice Size – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armscye, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist). 
• Adjusting Bust – We design for a C cup bust but have found cup sizes A to D fit well without adjustment. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial on how to do it.
• Adjusting Height – This top is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to add/remove length at the halfway point along the side seams.  
• Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the bodice and a sleeve. Label each piece with tailor’s chalk or fabric pen so you know what each piece is. 
  • Baste the bodice together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

• Fabric – Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastine/lycra, and silk jersey with elastine/lycra. These will give you a lovely drape. Do not use a woven fabric.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. 
• Back Binding – If you are going to use the same fabric for the Binding as for your top, it needs to have at least a 50% stretch for it to fit. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length).

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back – Cut 1 on fold
• Sleeve – Cut 2
• Back Neck Binding – Cut 1 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch  

Sewing –

1. BACK NECK BINDING – Mark center of the Back and Back Binding pieces.  With wrong sides facing up, match center points.  Pin along entire back neckline.  Sew and press seam allowance up.  Press raw edge down to meet raw edge of back.  Fold binding again, covering raw edges.  Stitch close to the folded edge.  
2. BACK HEM – Press and stitch ½ inch hem along back hem.  
3. FRONT PIECES – Right sides together, pin, and sew along top and bottom edges.  Turn right sides out and press.  
4. SHOULDER SEAMS – Sandwiching one Back shoulder edge in between the two Front shoulder pieces, pin and sew.  Create the front twist by bringing the second Front shoulder up and repeat for second shoulder seam.  
5. SIDE SEAMS – Use a burrito roll to finish one side seam, then the other.  Refer to step 5 for a video.  
6. SLEEVES – Create a memory hem at ½ on the bottom of the sleeve.  Unfold memory hem. Pin and sew side seam of Sleeve.  Refold memory hem and topstitch.  Insert Sleeve into bodice and sew.  Repeat for second Sleeve.  

Congratulations, your Talia Twist Top is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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