Women's Tessa Top

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk. Using the pattern pieces, mark in the seam line the placement of the darts and the inverted pleat. Mark all other points as indicated on the pattern. 

NOTE – See step 1.1 for instructions on how to mark the darts.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline and armscye are likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.

Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch the neckline on the main and lining pieces of the Front. Starting at the center, stitch towards each side in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the armscye on the main and lining pieces of the Front. Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the neckline, armscye, and the lower edge of the Back Yoke and Lining pieces. Starting at the centers or bottoms and stitching in the direction of the arrows. 

Staystitch the top of the Back starting at the center and stitching out in the direction of the arrows. Also staystitch the armscye of the back stitching in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the top of each sleeve starting at the centers and stitching in the direction of the arrows. 

TIP – For the sleeve heads this stitching can be longer more like a basting stitch and leave the thread tails long in the center to use for easing in the sleeve later if necessary. 

OPTIONAL Bias Binding

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – You do not need bias tape.

REGULAR SEWING MACHING OPTION – This tutorial shows purchased ready-made bias tape. You will need Single Fold Bias Binding for the Sleeveless option in step 7. For the inside seams you will need Double Fold Bias Binding. 

If you would like to try making your own Bias Binding download our free tutorial here and follow the instructions for ‘Single Fold Bias Tape’.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use that. Alternatively, here is how we like to do it.

Lay the Main Front wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the back along the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead, leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the second dart on the Front and the two darts on the Front Lining.

Press all the darts facing down toward the hem.

To create an Inverted Box Pleat on the lower Back piece, fold the Back right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the box pleat.

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings.

Finger press the pleat flat along this fold, to give a nice crease in the center of the pleat.

With wrong side facing up, open the Back and flatten the pleat, aligning the crease made in the last step with the pin. This will center the inverted box pleat along the Back.

Add additional pins on either side of the original pin, to secure the pleat in place.

Baste the box pleat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – A basting stitch is a long straight stitch used to hold something in place temporarily. This will be replaced in the next step when the Back Yoke is attached.

TIP – If your machine does not have a basting stitch option set it to the longest straight stitch you can. There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of this stitch line, as it is temporary.

With right sides facing up, press the box pleat flat.

TIP – You can also press about an inch down the pleat, for a nice crisp pleat. This will also help when attaching the yoke in the next step.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a Serger, match up the shoulder seams of the outer Front to the outer Back Yoke and serge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seams towards the back and Repeat for the Lining, pressing the seams towards the front.  Then skip to step 3.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow these steps. 

Lay the outer Front piece right side up and match the shoulder seams with the Outer Back Yoke shoulder seams, Pin. Repeat for the other Main shoulder seams.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seams open.

Repeat for the Lining. 

Lay the Main and Lining pieces with the right sides together. Match up the Necklines and shoulder seams. 

Pin together around the neckline. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Clip the curves. DO NOT clip through the seam, it’s ok to clip through the staystitching. 

If serging, do not clip curves. 

TIP – Pinking shears may also be used to trim the edge of the neckline instead of clipping the curve.

Carefully trim the seam to reduce the bulk leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the bodice so it is lying flat, wrong sides up. Press the seam allowance toward the lining. 

Understitch the seam allowance where the lining and outer piece join, approximately an ⅛ inch to a ¼ inch from where the Lining and Main piece join. 

Stop and backstitch at ⅝ of an inch from the edge where the two Yoke pieces come together. 

NOTE – Understitching will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice. The next step shows what this looks like.

Flip the Main Lining over the Main, so the wrong sides are together. Press along the neckline.

Next the Rouleau Loop for the Button closure on the Back Bodice will be sewn. Alternatively, you can use a piece of ribbon that is a ¼ inch wide by 2 inches long instead and then continue to step 4.4.   

Take the fabric strip you cut for the Rouleau Loop and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half.

Turn the tube right side out and press. 

There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method, one you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is one option.

Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).

Clip a small tip off the corner of the side the needle will be going through. This will help the fabric to turn inside itself.  

Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.

The finished size of the Loop should be ¼ inch wide.

Press the loop with the seam straight along one side.

Fold the loop in half and pin to the right side of the Outer Back Yoke with the loop facing inside. Place a pin at the top, marking the ½ inch seam allowance. This will allow you to see how big the loop needs to be for the button. 

Place the button on the loop to measure how much to adjust the size of the loop. Then move one end of the loop out as needed. Make sure the seams of the loop touch and are laying side by side as shown here.

Pin in place.

Baste the Loop in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the ends of the loop to match the edge.

It’s a good idea to test the button to make sure it fits through the loop easily before moving on to the next step. 

Put the right sides of the Outer Back Yoke and Back Yoke Lining together matching up the sides and corner then pin down on the short edge.

Starting at the top and backstitching up to the previous stitch line, continue stitching down each side of the bodice with a ½ inch seam allowance, enclosing the loop inside.

Trim the seam in half and clip the corner, being very careful not to clip into the stitching.

Turn the Bodice to the right side out and press.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push the corners out. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Repeat for the opposite Back Yoke omitting the button loop.

Decide on the Button placement.

Lay the Yoke with the loop laying over the right side and the center backs touching. The button should be about the same size as the loop. The size of the loop can be adjusted for a smaller button by removing the basting and re-stitching it.

Hand stitch the button with matching thread if preferred.

TIP – For hand stitching the button without a visible knot start by knotting the thread at the back of the button and going down through the top of the Yoke. Make an even tack on the back side. Contrast thread is shown here but you can match the color of the lining if preferred. Bring the needle back up between the button and the bodice and create a knot under the button by passing the needle through under the button to make a loop, catch with the needle and pull tight. Repeat and trim the tail under the button.

For this step we will be using a basting stitch, it is recommended to use a regular sewing machine.

Lay the Outer and Lining Pieces with wrong sides together matching up all the raw edges, line up the shoulder seams, match up the side darts and side seams.

Pin starting at the lower edge of one side seam and continue up around the armscye, around the lower edge of the back Yokes to the other end. 

Sew a Basting stitch a ¼ inch from the edge around the entire Bodice piece. 

OPTIONAL – If the fabric layers of the front bodice are very slippery the hem can be basted at this point as well. 

The two Back Yokes can move while stitching, so to prevent this make a Bar Tack just under the staystitching at the lower edge of the back yokes. 

To do this, set the sewing machine at the widest zig zag stitch and zero stitch length. Pin the Back yokes together so they lay touching but not over lapping. Match up the edges and stitch a few times to secure in place. 

To attach the Back Yoke to the remaining bodice, pin together with the right sides together matching up the outer edges that complete the armscye and matching the centers. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam down.

To cover the seams, pre-made Double fold Bias Binding may be used. Cut a piece slightly larger than the width of the Back. 

Open the binding and pin the long side to the edge of the seam. 

Stitch in the fold of the Binding.

Hold the Binding back and trim the seam to reduce bulk. 

Fold the seam over and pin the binding down to enclose the raw edge.

Stitch close to the edge of the binding.

Carefully trim the ends of the binding to match the edge of the armscye.

Press the binding down toward the hem.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, put the side seams of the Bodice right sides together and Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Bodice Side seams will be sewn using French seams. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Turn the Bodice right side out and match up the Side Seams. 

Pin together.

Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seams are encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.

Carefully clip the curves up to the stitching without cutting through the stitch.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch again approximately a ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam again.

If you are doing the Sleeve option, skip to step 8. If you are doing the Sleeveless version, follow along below.

SERGER OPTION – Serge the edge of the sleeve opening using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn under another ¼ of an inch, press and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Open the single fold bias binding and fold over the short end to the inside about a ¼ inch and press. 

Starting at the under-arm seam pin the bias along the armhole right sides together, aligning the raw edges.

Start stitching on the folded end of the binding and continue around the armhole. Stitch in the first fold aligning the edge of the bias binding ¼ inch in from the armhole. Overlap the end over the fold and stop stitching after crossing over it. 

Hold back the binding and trim the bodice seam allowance a ¼ of an inch.

Clip the curves around the armhole, being very careful not to cut into the stitching. 

Press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the armhole.

Remove any visible staystitching left behind. 

Fold the binding all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and enclosing all raw edges. The binding will now be on the inside. 

Stitch the binding to the armhole about a ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape to hold it in place.

The bias tape should now be totally attached to the armhole on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.

Press.

If you have sewn the Sleeveless option, skip to step 9. If you are doing the Sleeve version, follow along below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, insert the sleeve into the Bodice with right sides together, matching up the seams. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam towards the Bodice. Optionally, top stitch the seam allowance in place approximately a ¼ inch from the armhole seam. Then skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Sleeves will be sewn using a French Seams to set in the Sleeve. This will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. This is the same technique as used in step 6. 

If adding Sleeves, lay together right sides out to do a French Seam. 

Turn the Sleeves right side out and match up the Side Seams. 

Pin together.

Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam in half.

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seams are encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Stitch again approximately a ¼ inch from the edge.

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press seam again.

Repeat for the other Sleeve.

Place the Sleeve inside the Bodice with the wrong sides facing each other. Match up the Sleeve, side seams and the top of the Sleeve with the shoulder seam, slowly pin the sleeve. 

TIP – The Sleeve can be eased in using the tails of the staystitching. Gently pull the bobbin threads to gather a small amount, spread it evenly to match up the sleeve to the armscye.

Stitch around the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam in half being very careful not to cut into the Bodice or Sleeve underneath.

Clip the curves being careful not to cut into the stitching.  

Pull the Sleeve out and turn the whole Bodice inside out with Sleeve inside the Bodice so a French Seam on the Sleeve can be done just like in Step 6.

Pin in place to hold the fold while it is being stitched.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance around the fold.

Turn right side out and press.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hemline and the edge of the sleeve to neaten and finish it (do not take any seam allowance off though). Turn the edges under by a ½ inch then topstitch close to the serged edge. Press. 

TIP – When hemming fine fabrics, use a rolled hem foot or press up a ½ inch hem then fold it in half before stitching.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Fold the hem towards the wrong side a ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem under a ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges. Press and pin.

From the right side, topstitch the hem in place just under a ¼ inch and press.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 to hem both Sleeves.