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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Toronto Day Dress & Top
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This dress and top sewing pattern is loose and flowy with a relaxed fit over the bust, waist, and hips. The pattern features a back yoke with key-hole gathering and button closure, a lined bodice, and gathered tiers. There are also three length options and two sleeve options, so there is something for every style.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your Size – Check the finished garment measurements against your own measurements before selecting your size by holding a tape measure around your waist and hip. For most body shapes, you will find the sizing generous and comfortable over the hips.
- Selecting Yoke Size – If your bust and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your bust measurement. That way the armhole, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your bust and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
- Adjusting Bust – The Ladies sizes are designed with a C cup bust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. If your bust size is above a D cup, as this is a loose fitting dress it is unlikely that you will need to do a Full Bust Adjustment.
- Adjusting Height – The Ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to make the following adjustments: at the armscye and through the next tier down and the hem of the dress.
- Bicep Adjustment – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you shouldn’t need to make any adjustments. Once you’ve made your muslin and if you feel you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller follow this tutorial.
- Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
- Use an inexpensive fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the Yoke, a sleeve and two tiers of the skirt. Sewing two tiers of the skirt will help you check the length and the fit at the waist and hips. Label each piece with tailor’s chalk or fabric pen so you know what each piece is. NOTE – If you are sewing the three-tier skirt, the hem circumference will be much wider.
- Baste the Yoke together using a ¼ inch seam allowance, and baste the skirt together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ¼ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- A light weight woven such as a chiffon, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking, and may be see-through (or require a slip underneath for coverage).
- A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, silk, rayon challis, silk crepe, bubble crepe, crepe de chine, double gauze or silk satin will drape.
- OPTIONAL Bias Binding – You can use bias tape to create the button loop, and to finish the seams of the Yoke, Sleeves, and each Tier. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. All sizes need 2 inches for the button loop.
- 1x Button (maximum 1cm / ½ inch wide)
- Thread to match
- Ignore the grainline – The skirt is designed to be cut with the grainline running vertically down the pattern piece. Normally grainlines are really important and I would never suggest altering them. However, you can turn the pattern piece so it runs down the fabric (e.g. the grainline runs across the pattern piece). There is very little shaping on the side seams of the skirt. Most of the shaping and silhouette of the skirt is created in the gathers. Before cutting, hold your fabric up in this direction and check if you like how it hangs.
- Split your pattern piece – This is the more traditional approach. If your fabric doesn’t have a directional print, this is what you’ll need to do. To do this:
- A. Take each tier pattern piece and add a ¼ inch seam allowance to each short side of the pattern piece.
- B. Cut 4 pieces from your fabric. You will sew two pieces together to form the front tier and two pieces together to form the back tier, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
- Front:
- Fabric – Cut 1 on fold
- Lining – Cut 1 on fold
- Back:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeve – Cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle – Cut 2
- Button Loop – Cut 1
- All Lengths: Tier 1 – Cut 2 on fold
- Top Length Option:
- Tier 2 – Cut 2 on fold
- Knee Length Dress OPTION:
- Tier 2 – Cut 2 on fold
- Tier 3 – Cut 2 on fold
- Maxi Length Dress OPTION:
- Tier 2 – Cut 2 on fold
- Tier 3 – Cut 2 on fold
- Tier 4 – Cut 2 on fold
Project OverviewToronto Day Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Inspired by Boho-Chic, the Toronto Day Dress is a relaxed, loose fitting, flowing style dress. Choose between a two-tiered top, three-tier knee length dress or a four-tier maxi dress. The short sleeves can be hemmed or add the ruffle to add a statement sleeve to this beautiful dress. The back is finished with a keyhole opening and button closure.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center Back to Hem Length
Sleeve length
Bicep
Sleeve ruffle
width
Hem circum
ference
Top
Knee
Maxi
XXS
52.0
52.0
57.0
24.3
40.1
57.3
6.2
12.4
18.4
87.5
XS
54.0
54.0
62.2
24.5
40.4
57.6
6.4
13.2
19.7
92.4
S
56.0
56.0
63.5
24.7
40.5
57.7
6.7
14.0
21.0
97.4
M
58.0
58.0
67.0
24.9
41.0
58.0
7.0
15.0
22.3
102.4
L
60.0
60.0
70.1
25.1
41.0
58.1
7.2
15.6
23.6
107.3
XL
62.7
62.7
75.1
25.3
41.1
58.2
7.4
16.4
26.5
114.7
XXL
65.6
65.6
80.1
25.5
41.2
58.4
7.6
17.2
26.2
122.2
3XL
69.0
69.0
85.4
25.7
41.4
58.6
8.0
18.0
27.5
130.1
4XL
71.7
71.7
90.4
25.9
42.0
59.0
8.1
18.7
29.0
137.6
5XL
74.7
74.7
95.3
26.1
42.0
59.2
8.3
19.5
30.1
145.0
Fitting NotesThe Toronto Day Dress is a very loose, relaxed fit with a forgiving fit over the bust, waist and hips.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this dress. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind:
Lining fabric – The lining will be used on the inside of the Yoke only. If you are using a very sheer fabric you may wish to line the dress tiers as well. It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
Fabric Requirements 45 inch/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Maxi length single colour
Knee length single colour
Main yoke
Yoke lining
Tier 1
Tier 2
(top)
Tier 3
(knee length)
Tier 4 (maxi dress)
Sleeve
Sleeve ruffle
XXS
5.50
3.00
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
XS
6.00
3.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
S
6.00
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
0.75
M
6.25
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
1.00
L
6.50
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.25
3.25
0.50
1.00
XL
7.00
4.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.25
3.50
0.50
1.00
XXL
7.50
4.25
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.50
3.50
0.50
1.00
3XL
8.00
4.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.75
3.75
0.50
1.00
4XL
8.50
5.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
2.75
4.00
0.50
1.00
5XL
9.00
5.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
3.00
4.25
0.50
1.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inch/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Maxi length single colour
Knee length single colour
Main yoke
Yoke lining
Tier 1
Tier 2
(top)
Tier 3
(knee length)
Tier 4 (maxi dress)
Sleeve
Sleeve ruffle
XXS
4.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
XS
4.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
S
4.75
2.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
0.75
M
4.75
2.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
1.00
L
5.00
3.00
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.25
3.25
0.50
1.00
XL
5.50
3.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.25
3.50
0.50
1.00
XXL
5.75
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.50
3.50
0.50
1.00
3XL
6.00
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.75
3.75
0.50
1.00
4XL
6.25
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
2.75
4.00
0.50
1.00
5XL
6.75
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
3.00
4.25
0.50
1.00
NOTE – If you are using a sheer fabric for the tiers and it needs to be lined, you will need the same fabric requirements listed above for the tiers for your lining fabric. The Yoke is already lined.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and tape measure. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Top Length Knee Length Maxi Length OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle XXS – XS 4-11, 13-14, 16-18, 20-21 4-11, 13-14, 16-21, 23-26 4-11, 13-14, 16-21, 23-26, 30-35, 40-45 2-3 S 4-11, 13-14, 16-18, 20-21 4-11, 13-14, 16-21, 23-27 4-11, 13-14, 16-21, 23-27, 30-36, 40-46 2-3 M 4-11, 13-18, 20-22 4-11, 13-27 4-11, 13-27, 30-36, 40-46 2-3 L 4-22 4-27 4-27, 30-36, 40-46 2-3 XL 4-22 4-27 4-27, 30-37, 40-47 2-3 XXL 4-22 4-28 4-28, 30-37, 40-47 2-3 3XL – 4XL 4-22 4-28 4-28, 30-38, 40-48 2-3 5XL 4-22 4-28 4-28, 30-39, 40-49 2-3 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Top Length Knee Length Maxi Length OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle XXS 4-11, 13-14, 16-18 4-11, 13-14, 16-19, 23-26 4-11, 13-14, 16-19, 23-26, 30-35, 40-45 2-3 XS – M 4-11, 13-18 4-11, 13-20, 23-27 4-11, 13-20, 23-27, 30-36, 40-46 2-3 L – XL 4-19 4-20, 23-27 4-20, 23-27, 30-37, 40-47 2-3 XXL 4-19 4-21, 23-28 4-21, 23-28, 30-37, 40-47 2-3 3XL – 4XL 4-19 4-21, 23-28 4-21, 23-28, 30-38, 40-48 2-3 5XL 4-20 4-29 4-39, 40-49 2-4 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
When you come to cutting out the Toronto Day Dress, you need to cut 1x back piece and 1x front piece on the fold. For sizes L – 5XL if you are using 60inch / 150cm (or 45inch / 115cm) wide fabric, you may need to do one of the following:
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Tier 2 (Cut 2)
Tier 3 (Cut 2)
Tier 4 (Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Sleeve ruffle
(Cut 2)Button loop
(Cut 1)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
12.00
39.30
16.70
59.00
17.70
88.50
8.50
19.50
0.75
2.00
XS
12.00
41.50
16.70
62.20
17.70
93.50
8.50
20.70
0.75
2.00
S
12.00
43.70
16.70
65.60
17.70
98.50
8.50
22.00
0.75
2.00
M
12.00
46.00
16.70
69.00
17.70
103.40
8.50
23.30
0.75
2.00
L
12.00
48.10
16.70
72.10
17.70
108.40
8.50
24.60
0.75
2.00
XL
12.00
51.40
16.70
77.30
17.70
116.00
8.50
26.00
0.75
2.00
XXL
12.00
54.70
16.70
82.10
17.70
123.20
8.50
27.30
0.75
2.00
3XL
12.00
58.30
16.70
87.40
17.70
131.20
8.50
28.50
0.75
2.00
4XL
12.00
61.60
16.70
92.30
17.70
138.60
8.50
30.00
0.75
2.00
5XL
12.00
65.00
16.70
97.30
17.70
146.00
8.50
31.20
0.75
2.00
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to the fabric.
- STAY STITCHING – Staystitch the neckline, waist and armscye on the Main Yoke and Yoke Lining. Staystitch the armscye on the Tier 1 pieces.
- YOKE – Right sides together, stitch the Back and Front Yoke pieces at shoulder seam, press. Repeat with the other shoulder, then with Lining pieces. Stitch the Main Yoke and Lining Yoke together along the neckline. Clip along the curve, open Yoke, press and understitch stopping ⅝ inch from raw edge. Turn Yoke right side out and press.
- KEYHOLE CLOSURE – Fold the Button Loop in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch, trim seam allowance, turn right side out and press. Fold in half then pin on right side of Yoke Lining right below the understitching and baste. Stitch the Back Yoke right sides together, being sure to backstitch all the way up to original stitch line. Trim seam in half, turn the Yoke right side out, press. Decide on button placement and stitch.
- GATHERING STITCHES – OPTIONAL Lining: If you are lining your tiers, baste the two layers together and treat it as one piece. Stitch gathering stitches at the top of each Tier piece. Repeat for the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle if adding them.
- ATTACHING TIER 1 TO YOKE – Secure the split on the Back Yoke. Mark center points on the Yoke Tier 1. Match the center points. Gather the Tier to each quarter and stitch. Press seam. Repeat to attach other Tier 1 to Front Yoke. Finish raw edges of seam.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Yoke side seams using a French Seam.
- SLEEVE – Stitch Sleeve underarm seam using a French Seam. If not adding Ruffle press hem up a ½ inch, fold raw edge to inside ¼ inch, press, and topstitch. Repeat for other Sleeve.
- OPTIONAL SLEEVE RUFFLE – Stitch the side seams on the Sleeve Ruffles using a French Seam. Mark the quarter points on Sleeve and Ruffle. Place Sleeve inside Ruffle matching the quarter points. Gather Ruffle to fit Sleeve, then stitch. Finish the Ruffle seam. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
- ATTACH SLEEVE – Stitch the Sleeves to the Yoke using a French seam.
- ATTACHING TIERS – Using French Seams, stitch the side seams of each Tier together. Mark quarter points on the gathered edge of the larger Tier and the bottom of the Tier above it. Place smaller Tier inside the larger Tier matching the quarter points. Gather the larger Tier to fit the smaller Tier, then stitch. Finish the raw edge. Repeat on the other Tiers.
- HEMMING – Press hem ½ inch, then ¼ inch. Topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all the pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.
0.2Stay Stitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline, armscye, and waist are likely to stretch and then your dress won’t fit properly when you try it on.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the neckline and bottom on the Main and Lining Front, Back Yoke pieces and the Sleeve head. Starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the armscye on the Main and Lining Front and Back Yoke. Starting at the bottom of the armscye, stitch up towards the shoulder, in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the armscye on the Tier 1 pieces in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Yoke1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With right sides together, serge a Back piece to the Front along the shoulder seam using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other Back piece to the other shoulder seam. Repeat for the Front and Back Lining pieces. Press the seam allowances to one side. Skip to step 1.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1With right sides together, pin a Back piece to the Front along the shoulder seam.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Press the seam allowance open.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the other shoulder seam.
1.5Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the Front and Back Lining pieces.
1.6Place the Yoke Lining onto the Main Yoke, right sides together. Find the center back and pin together. Continue pinning along the neckline.
1.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.8Clip along the curve, as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.
NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.
1.9Open the Yoke so it is lying flat with the wrong sides facing up. Press the seam allowance towards the Yoke Lining.
1.10Understitch the seam allowance to the Lining along the neckline, approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Lining and Yoke piece join, stopping ⅝ inch from the raw edge on both sides.
NOTE – Understitching will help hold the Lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the Yoke. The next step shows what this looks like.
1.11Flip the Yoke Lining over the Main Yoke, so that the wrong sides are together.
Press along the neckline.
2 . Keyhole Closure2.0You will be sewing a rouleau loop for the Button closure on the back Yoke. If you are using store bought bias binding skip to step 2.5.
2.1Fold the Button Loop in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin along the raw edge.
2.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.3Trim the seam allowance in half.
2.4Turn right side out and press.
There are several ways to turn the Loop right side out. If you have a preferred method, you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.
METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Carefully, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
2.5Separate the Yoke Main and Yoke Lining and lay with the right side of the fabric facing up. Fold the Button Loop in half and pin to the wearer’s right-hand side of the Yoke Lining, just below the Understitching, matching the raw edges. Lay the ends side by side as shown here and pin in place.
NOTE – Check the button will easily fit through the Button Loop when sewn.
2.6Baste the Button Loop in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Decide on the button placement. Lay the Yoke with the loop laying over the left side and the center backs touching. The button should be about the same size as the loop. The size of the loop can be adjusted for a smaller button by removing the basting and re-stitching it.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
2.7Put the right sides of the Back Yoke and Back Lining together and pin.
Starting at the top and backstitching up to the original stitch line, continue stitching down each side of the Yoke with ½ inch seam allowance, enclosing the loop inside.
Trim the seam in half, clip the corner being careful not to clip into the stitching.
2.8Turn the Yoke to the right side out and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
2.9Hand stitch the button with matching thread if preferred.
TIP – For hand stitching the button without a visible knot start by knotting the thread at the back of the button and going down through the top of the Yoke. Make an even tack on the back side. Contrasting thread is shown here but you can match the color of the lining if preferred. Bring the needle back up between the button and the Yoke and create a knot under the button by passing the needle through under the button to make a loop, catch with the needle and pull tight. Repeat and trim the tail under the button.
3 . Gathering Stitches3.1OPTIONAL Lining – If you are lining your tiers, baste the two (main and lining) layers together and treat it as one piece.
Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of each Tier piece, stopping about ⅝ inch from the sides to leave room for the seam allowance. Repeat for the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle if adding them.
For gathering stitches, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch away from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
NOTE – Set aside the other Tier pieces. These will be attached in step 7.
4 . Attaching Tier 1 to Yoke4.1Secure the split at the bottom of the Back Yoke, using a needle and thread, bar tack the bottom of the Back Yoke just inside the staystitching.
4.2Mark the center of both Tier 1 pieces. Do not pull up the gathers yet.
With right sides together, matching centers and side points, pin a Tier 1 to the Back Yoke. Continue pinning, find the quarter points and be careful not to add too many pins so the fabric can be gathered.
There should be a small point from the Back Yoke sticking out past the edge of the Tier piece. The two pieces should meet at the seam allowance.
4.3Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Top Tier piece.
Gather all the way across the quarter you are working on until the Tier 1 is the same length as that quarter of Yoke. Pin as you go.
Gently spread out the Tier piece so that it is evenly gathered across the bottom edge of the Yoke matching up the sides at the seam allowances.
4.4Stitch together right in between the gathering stitches on Tier 1. Remove the gathering stitches.
Press the seam down towards the skirt.
Repeat steps 4.2 – 4.4 to attach the other Tier 1 to the Front Yoke.
4.5To finish the seams between the Yoke and Tier 1, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now for the Front and Back and skip to step 5.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
4.6Cut a piece of bias binding that is slightly larger than the width of the Back Yoke. Open the binding and pin alongside to the edge of the seam. Stitch in the fold of the binding.
4.7Hold back the Binding and trim the seam to reduce the bulk. Fold the seam over and pin the binding down to enclose the raw edge.
4.8Stitch close to the edge of the binding. Press the binding toward the skirt.
4.9Carefully trim the ends of the binding to match the edge of the armscye.
Repeat steps 4.6 – 4.9 to attach binding to the Front Yoke seam.
5 . Side Seams5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Front Yoke and Tier to Back Yoke and Tier, right sides together, along the side seam. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – For the Yoke Side seams we will use French seams. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
5.1With wrong sides together, pin the side seam of the Yoke and Tier 1 together.
5.2Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.3Trim seam approximately in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
5.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
5.5With right sides together, stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
Turn right side out and press seam again.
Repeat for the other side seam.
6 . Sleeve6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, match Sleeve underarm seam, right sides together and serge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other sleeve. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle skip to step 7. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle, serge the bottom edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance, turn it under ½ inch, press, topstitch in place. Repeat for the other sleeve. Then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Follow steps 5.1 – 5.5 to stitch the underarm seams together using a French seam.
Pin the underarm seams wrong sides together.
Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam approximately in half. Turn wrong side out and press.
Stitch using ¼ seam allowance.
Turn right side out and press seam again.
6.2If you are adding the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle, skip to step 7.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle, press the hem ½ inch to the wrong side.
6.3Fold the raw edge to the inside creating a ¼ inch hem.
6.4Topstitch the hem just inside ¼ inch making sure to catch the fold on the other side.
Repeat steps 6.1 – 6.4 for the other Sleeve.
7 . OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle7.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Sleeve Ruffle skip to step 8.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, pin the short edges of the Sleeve Ruffle right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Mark the quarter points on both the Ruffle and the Sleeve, then match the quarter points. Gather and serge with the right sides together. Serge the bottom hem a ¼ inch, turn under a ½ inch, press and top stitch in place. Then skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. If adding the Ruffles to the Sleeves, be sure to add them before stitching the sleeves to the Yoke.
7.1Follow steps 5.1 – 5.5 to stitch the Sleeve Ruffle side seams together using a French seam.
Pin the Sleeve Ruffle short ends wrong sides together.
Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam approximately in half. Turn wrong side out and press.
Stitch using ¼ seam allowance. Make sure the tails of the gathering stitches are not caught in the seam.
Turn right side out and press seam again.
7.2Mark the quarter points of the Sleeve and the Sleeve Ruffle.
Place the Sleeve inside the Sleeve Ruffle, right sides together (the Sleeve Ruffle will be wrong side out). Match the seams and quarter points and pin.
Pull the bobbin threads on the Ruffle, gathering each quarter section.
7.3Stitch with ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.
7.4To finish the seam between the Sleeve and Sleeve Ruffle, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now then skip to step 8.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
7.5Start pinning around the ruffled edge, overlapping the end by ½ inch. Trim the Binding.
7.6Stitch along the first fold of the Binding.
7.7Holding the Binding away from the seam, trim the seam of the Sleeve approximately in half to reduce the bulk.
7.8Turn the Binding up and press.
Neatly fold the binding over the seam so all the raw edges are tucked inside.
Pin in place.
7.9Stitch very close to the inside edge of the Binding.
7.10Pull the Sleeve Ruffle through the Sleeve. Press the Binding up.
7.11Press the hem ½ inch to the wrong side.
Fold again ¼ inch, press and pin.
Topstitch the hem just inside ¼ inch making sure to catch the fold on the other side.
Repeat steps 7.1 – 7.11 for the other Sleeve.
8 . Attach Sleeve8.0This step is the same for either Sleeve option.
TIP – If you have added a lining, before starting this step it is often helpful to baste the lining and main fabric together. Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
8.1Mark the quarter points of the armscye and the Sleeve.
Place the Sleeve inside the Yoke, wrong sides together (you will see the right side of the sleeve fabric inside the sleeve), matching up the quarter points. Ease the sleeve in at the ½ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will.
8.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you’re able to, detach the extension table from your machine. It will make it easier to stitch on the round.
8.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
NOTE – Be careful not to cut into the Yoke or Sleeve underneath.
8.4Pull the Sleeve out. Press the seam toward the sleeve.
8.5Turn the Yoke inside out and push the Sleeve inside the Yoke so right sides are facing. You will be sewing a French Seam as you did in step 4.
Pin in place. This will help hold the fold in place.
8.6Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance around the fold.
Turn right sides out and press.
Repeat steps 8.1 – 8.6 for the other Sleeve.
9 . Attaching Tiers9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the side seams of each tier right sides together so they form a circle using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then mark the quarter points on each Tier and match. Gather and serge right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
9.1Repeat steps 5.1 – 5.5 to stitch the side seams to Tier 2.
Place the two Tier 2 pieces wrong sides together. Pin along the short edges (side seams).
Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam approximately in half. Turn wrong side out and press.
Stitch using ¼ seam allowance. Make sure the tails of the gathering stitches are not caught in the seam.
Turn right side out and press seam again.
Skip to step 9.3 if making the Top Version.
9.2Repeat step 9.1 for Tier 3, and Tier 4 if sewing the maxi dress.
9.3Mark the quarter points on the gathered edge of Tier 3 and the bottom edge of Tier 2.
Place Tier 2 inside Tier 3, matching the marked edges. Tier 2 will be upside down. Match the quarter points with the folds of the French seams laying in the opposite direction at the seams. Pin.
NOTE – If you are adding Tier 4 you will start by attaching Tier 4 to Tier 3 following steps 9.3 – 9.5, then attach Tier 3 to Tier 2.
9.4Gently pull the bobbin threads between each quarter point. Even out the gathers and pin in place all around.
9.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.
9.6Pull Tier 2 up through Tier 3 and press the seams allowance up.
Repeat steps 9.3 – 9.6 to attach Tier 2 to Tier 1.
9.7To finish the seams between each Tier, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now for each Tier and skip to step 10.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind the edge using bias tape repeating steps 7.4-7.9 to attach the Binding.
Pull the shorter Tier up through the lower Tier and press the Binding up.
Repeat steps 9.7 – 9.10 to finish the seams on all Tiers.
10 . Hemming10.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom hem using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn under ½ inch and press. Then topstitch in place.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
10.1Press the hem up ½ inch.
10.2Fold the raw edge to the inside creating a ¼ inch hem.
10.3Press.
10.4Topstitch in place.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Toronto Day Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptorontodaydress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewToronto Day Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Inspired by Boho-Chic, the Toronto Day Dress is a relaxed, loose fitting, flowing style dress. Choose between a two-tiered top, three-tier knee length dress or a four-tier maxi dress. The short sleeves can be hemmed or add the ruffle to add a statement sleeve to this beautiful dress. The back is finished with a keyhole opening and button closure.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center Back to Hem Length
Sleeve length
Bicep
Sleeve ruffle
width
Hem circum
ference
Top
Knee
Maxi
XXS
52.0
52.0
57.0
24.3
40.1
57.3
6.2
12.4
18.4
87.5
XS
54.0
54.0
62.2
24.5
40.4
57.6
6.4
13.2
19.7
92.4
S
56.0
56.0
63.5
24.7
40.5
57.7
6.7
14.0
21.0
97.4
M
58.0
58.0
67.0
24.9
41.0
58.0
7.0
15.0
22.3
102.4
L
60.0
60.0
70.1
25.1
41.0
58.1
7.2
15.6
23.6
107.3
XL
62.7
62.7
75.1
25.3
41.1
58.2
7.4
16.4
26.5
114.7
XXL
65.6
65.6
80.1
25.5
41.2
58.4
7.6
17.2
26.2
122.2
3XL
69.0
69.0
85.4
25.7
41.4
58.6
8.0
18.0
27.5
130.1
4XL
71.7
71.7
90.4
25.9
42.0
59.0
8.1
18.7
29.0
137.6
5XL
74.7
74.7
95.3
26.1
42.0
59.2
8.3
19.5
30.1
145.0
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this dress. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind:
- A light weight woven such as a chiffon, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking, and may be see-through (or require a slip underneath for coverage).
- A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, silk, rayon challis, silk crepe, bubble crepe, crepe de chine, double gauze or silk satin will drape.
Lining fabric – The lining will be used on the inside of the Yoke only. If you are using a very sheer fabric you may wish to line the dress tiers as well. It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin.
Fabric Requirements 45 inch/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Maxi length single colour
Knee length single colour
Main yoke
Yoke lining
Tier 1
Tier 2
(top)
Tier 3
(knee length)
Tier 4 (maxi dress)
Sleeve
Sleeve ruffle
XXS
5.50
3.00
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
XS
6.00
3.25
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
S
6.00
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
0.75
M
6.25
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
1.00
L
6.50
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
1.50
2.25
3.25
0.50
1.00
XL
7.00
4.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.25
3.50
0.50
1.00
XXL
7.50
4.25
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.50
3.50
0.50
1.00
3XL
8.00
4.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.75
3.75
0.50
1.00
4XL
8.50
5.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
2.75
4.00
0.50
1.00
5XL
9.00
5.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
3.00
4.25
0.50
1.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inch/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Maxi length single colour
Knee length single colour
Main yoke
Yoke lining
Tier 1
Tier 2
(top)
Tier 3
(knee length)
Tier 4 (maxi dress)
Sleeve
Sleeve ruffle
XXS
4.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.25
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
XS
4.50
2.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
2.75
0.50
0.75
S
4.75
2.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
0.75
M
4.75
2.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.00
3.00
0.50
1.00
L
5.00
3.00
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.50
2.25
3.25
0.50
1.00
XL
5.50
3.00
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.25
3.50
0.50
1.00
XXL
5.75
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.50
3.50
0.50
1.00
3XL
6.00
3.50
0.75
0.75
1.25
1.75
2.75
3.75
0.50
1.00
4XL
6.25
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
2.75
4.00
0.50
1.00
5XL
6.75
3.75
0.75
0.75
1.25
2.00
3.00
4.25
0.50
1.00
NOTE – If you are using a sheer fabric for the tiers and it needs to be lined, you will need the same fabric requirements listed above for the tiers for your lining fabric. The Yoke is already lined.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Bias Binding – You can use bias tape to create the button loop, and to finish the seams of the Yoke, Sleeves, and each Tier. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. All sizes need 2 inches for the button loop.
- 1x Button (maximum 1cm / ½ inch wide)
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and tape measure. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
