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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
3
Two Piece Swim Set - Ruched Swim Bottoms
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Choose between a high-rise or mid-rise lined swim bottom. There is a plain option or an option with ruching on the front at the side seams and at the center back, creating a comfortable and flattering shape.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hips.
- Height – This swimsuit is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and/or bum. The swimsuit waist is designed to sit at the natural waist.
- Rise – The crotch has been drafted to fit an average rise (the curve of the bottom). If you have a long or short torso or rise you may find you need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. The pattern measurements will have a negative ease, you will need sew a muslin to find the best fit. If you need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust (front or back), cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! It is highly recommended that you sew a muslin first (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) if this is the case for you. That way you can play around with the rise to get it perfect for you, and then you’ll have a master crotch line you can use on this and many other swimsuits, trousers, shorts etc. in the future to get them spot on.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when it’s exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, or salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – Clear elastic may be used in the children’s seams, however, it will not be strong enough for the women’s swimsuits.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – The pattern pieces are the same for either rise option. There is a cut line for high waist and for mid waist.
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining:
- Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold.
- Plain OPTION: Back – Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold.
- NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION pattern piece, using the midrise cut line.
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Back – Fabric 1 on fold
- Lining:
- Plain OPTION: Front – Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold.
- Plain OPTION: Back – Lining cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold.
- NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Plain OPTION pattern piece, using the high rise cut line.
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewRuched Swim Bottoms
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Mid Rise
High Rise
Hip
Waist
Front Rise
Back Rise
Waist
Front
Back
XXS
23.5
10.6
8.7
19.5
13.2
11.3
25.7
XS
24.5
11.0
9.2
21.0
13.5
11.7
27.3
S
25.6
11.3
9.6
22.5
13.7
12.1
28.6
M
27.3
11.6
10.0
24.0
14.1
12.5
30.2
L
29.0
12.1
10.3
25.5
14.5
12.7
31.7
XL
31.3
12.5
10.7
27.7
14.7
13.2
34.0
XXL
34.0
13.0
11.2
30.0
15.2
13.6
36.5
3XL
36.5
13.3
11.6
33.2
15.6
14.0
38.7
4XL
39.0
13.7
12.0
36.5
16.1
14.5
40.7
5XL
41.7
14.1
12.3
40.0
16.5
14.7
43.1
Fitting NotesThe high-rise sits into the natural waist. The mid-rise sits at top hip (hip bone).
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50% stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the Front for tummy support.
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
SAME Fabric for Main & Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
Plain
Ruched
Plain
Ruched
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
XXS – L
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
SEPARATE Main
SEPARATE Lining
Plain
Ruched
Plain
Ruched
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
XXS – M
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
L
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
XL
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Plain (mid/high rise) Gathered mid rise Gathered high rise XXS – S 2, 7-8, 13-14 3-4, 8-9, 15 5, 10-12, 16-18 M – 5XL 2-3, 7-8, 13-14 3-4, 8-9, 14-15 5-6, 10-12, 16-18 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Plain (mid/high rise) Gathered mid rise Gathered high rise XXS 2, 7-8, 13-14 3-4, 8-10, 15-16 5-6, 10-12, 16-18 XS – XL 2-3, 7-8, 13-14 3-4, 8-10, 15-16 5-6, 10-12, 16-18 XXL – 5XL 2-3, 7-8, 13-14 3-4, 8-10, 14-16 5-6, 10-12, 16-18 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
⅜ inch wide Elastic
Waist (Cut 1)
Leg
(Cut 2)
Ruched OPTION Center Back (Cut 1)
Mid Rise
High Rise
Length
Length
Length
Length
XXS
19.5
14.5
3.5
5.0
XS
21.0
15.6
3.5
5.0
S
22.5
17.0
3.5
5.0
M
24.0
18.2
3.5
5.0
L
25.5
19.4
3.5
5.0
XL
27.7
21.2
3.5
5.0
XXL
30.0
22.5
3.5
5.0
3XL
33.2
24.2
3.5
5.0
4XL
36.5
25.7
3.5
5.0
5XL
40.0
27.2
3.5
5.0
Cutting Checklist:
Plain Bottoms OPTION: Mid or High Rise
Ruched OPTION: Mid Rise
Ruched OPTION: High Rise
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste Front Power Mesh to Front Lining, wrong sides together.
- PLAIN OPTION – Place Main Front onto Main Back, right sides together, matching side seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for second side seam.
- RUCHED OPTION – Fold the Main Back right sides together, matching the center back seam. Stitch. Press seam to one side. Mark ½ inch from each end of elastic. Match top markings on wrong side of Main Back. Pin. Gently pull elastic and match bottom markings. Pin. Stitch a few stitches from the top pin using a straight stitch. Pull the bottom pin and elastic, stretching the elastic so the fabric lays flat. Continue stitching until you reach the bottom pin. Trim elastic. Stitch and gather each Main Front side seam to match Main Back side seams. Baste. Stitch.
- LINING SIDE SEAMS – Place Front Lining onto Back Lining, right sides together, matching side seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for second side seam.
- ATTACHING MAIN AND LINING – Place Main right sides facing out and Lining wrong sides facing out. Mark center points. Slide Main inside Lining, right sides together, matching side seams and center points. Stitch. Overlap ends of your elastic by 1 inch and stitch. Turn Swim Bottoms so wrong side of Main is facing out. Mark quarter points of elastic and waist. Place elastic over seam allowance matching quarter points. Stitch. Turn right way out. Press. OPTIONAL: Understitch elastic to Lining. Take the Front and Back Lining and match the bottom seam, right sides together. Stitch. Repeat to stitch Main Front and Back bottom seam together.
- LEG ELASTIC – Place the leg opening of the Main and Lining wrong sides together. Stitch. Place the elastic onto Lining on inside of leg opening. Pin elastic without stretching along the Front. Along the Back, stretch slightly, overlapping elastic by ½ inch. Stitch. Fold leg opening over to the inside. Topstitch. Repeat for other leg opening.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PeparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Power Mesh
Place the Front Lining and Front Power Mesh wrong sides together. Pin around the outer edges.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1 . Plain OPTION1.0If you are sewing the Gathered OPTION skip to step 2. This step is the same for either rise option.
1.1Place the Main Front onto the Main Back, right sides together, matching the side seam. Pin.
1.2Serge or stitch with a stretch stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Back.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the second side seam.
2 . Ruched OPTION2.0If you have sewn the Plain OPTION, skip to step 3. This step is the same for either rise option.
2.1Fold the Main Back right sides together, matching the center back seam. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Press the seam to one side.
2.4Mark ½ inch from each end of the elastic. Match the top marking on the elastic to the top pattern marking on the wrong side of the Main Back. Pin at the marking.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
2.5Gently pull the elastic and match the bottom marking on the elastic to the bottom pattern marking. Pin.
NOTE – There should be a ½ inch of elastic above the top pin and below the bottom pin.
2.6Stitch a few stitches from the top pin using a straight stitch, backstitching to lock in the stitches.
NOTE – Do not pull the fabric taut yet, let it remain bunched up.
Pull the bottom pin and elastic, stretching the elastic so the fabric lays flat.
Continue stitching down the elastic until you reach the bottom pin. Backstitch a couple stitches to lock in the stitches and secure the elastic in place.
2.7Trim the bottom of the elastic.
2.8Stitch two rows of gathering stitches on the Main Front between the two pattern markings at the side seam.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. top or bottom). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
2.9Repeat step 2.8 on the other side of the Main Front.
2.10Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the side seam of the Main Front to the same distance as the Main Back side seam.
Gently spread out the Main Front so that it is evenly gathered. Pin.
2.11Baste in between the two lines of gathering using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
This will keep the gathering stitches together when stitching the side seams.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2.12Serge or stitch the entire side seam, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric.
2.13Repeat steps 2.10 to 2.12 on the other side seam.
3 . Lining Side Seams3.0This step is the same for all rises and all options. If you are sewing the Ruched OPTION, you will need to follow below to sew a Plain Lining.
3.1Place the Front Lining onto the Back Lining, right sides together, matching the side seam. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch with a stretch stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Back.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the second side seam.
4 . Attaching Main and Lining4.0This step is the same for all options and rises.
4.1Place your Main right sides facing out and your Lining wrong sides facing out. Mark the center points. Slide the Main inside the Lining, right sides together, matching side seams and center points of the waist edge. Pin.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.3Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the Swim Bottoms, before continuing to the next step.
4.4Turn the Swim Bottoms so that the wrong side of the Main is facing out. Mark the quarter points of the elastic and the waist edge of the Swim Bottoms. Place the elastic onto the seam allowance and match quarter points. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
4.5Stitch the elastic onto the seam allowance using a stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taut, but not stretched while sewing.
4.6Turn right way out. Press.
OPTIONAL: Understitch the elastic to the Lining. This will prevent the Lining rolling out to the front.
4.7Take the Front and Back Lining and match the bottom seam, right sides together. Pin.
4.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
NOTE – If using a serger, press the seam toward the Back.
4.9Turn wrong side out. Repeat steps 4.7 to 4.8 to stitch the Main Front and Back bottom seam together. Turn right side out through leg opening.
5 . Leg Elastic5.1Place the leg opening of the Main and Lining wrong sides together. Pin.
5.2Baste the Main and Lining together at the Leg opening.
5.3Place the elastic onto the Lining on the inside of the leg opening, matching the elastic edge to the stitched edge. Starting at the Front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam.
Pin the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match. Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic join near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive places.
ALTERNATIVE – Sew the elastic into a loop following step 4.3, then pin the elastic.
5.4Stitch the elastic using a zig zag stitch. Carefully stretch the elastic along the back.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2mm is recommended.
5.5Fold the leg opening over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
5.6Topstitch close to the elastic using stretch stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the other leg opening.
Your Swim Bottoms are now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Ruched Swim Bottoms are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpruchedswimbottoms.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewRuched Swim Bottoms
Difficulty Level = Beginner
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Mid Rise
High Rise
Hip
Waist
Front Rise
Back Rise
Waist
Front
Back
XXS
23.5
10.6
8.7
19.5
13.2
11.3
25.7
XS
24.5
11.0
9.2
21.0
13.5
11.7
27.3
S
25.6
11.3
9.6
22.5
13.7
12.1
28.6
M
27.3
11.6
10.0
24.0
14.1
12.5
30.2
L
29.0
12.1
10.3
25.5
14.5
12.7
31.7
XL
31.3
12.5
10.7
27.7
14.7
13.2
34.0
XXL
34.0
13.0
11.2
30.0
15.2
13.6
36.5
3XL
36.5
13.3
11.6
33.2
15.6
14.0
38.7
4XL
39.0
13.7
12.0
36.5
16.1
14.5
40.7
5XL
41.7
14.1
12.3
40.0
16.5
14.7
43.1
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50% stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
OPTIONAL Power mesh – You can also add 4-way stretch power mesh to the Front for tummy support.
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
SAME Fabric for Main & Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
Plain
Ruched
Plain
Ruched
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
XXS – L
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
SEPARATE Main
SEPARATE Lining
Plain
Ruched
Plain
Ruched
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
Mid / High Rise
Mid Rise
High Rise
XXS – M
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
L
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.50
0.50
XL
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
XXL
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.00
1.00
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when it’s exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, or salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – Clear elastic may be used in the children’s seams, however, it will not be strong enough for the women’s swimsuits.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
