Ultimate Patch Pocket

Ultimate Patch Pocket

Difficulty Level = Beginner

Patch pockets are a fun way to add dimension and functionality to your garments.  I invite you to play around with the various included shapes and styles as well as create new shapes.  Experiment with top stitching – 1 or 2 rows.  Add piping, trim or embroidery.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

S-XL

You will need:

• Fabric to match the project you are adding pockets to
• Thread

Tools needed are a sewing machine, pins or clips, scissors, and ruler or tape measure.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zig zag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

¼ inch seam allowance, unless otherwise stated

Sewing –

BASIC PATCH POCKETS:

1. Finish the top by folding it under ¼ inch then another fold of ½ inch.  Stitch along the edge once or twice.
2. Turn and press the other edges by ¼ inches.  Pin in place and stitch to your garment.

WITH LINING:

1. Cut lining, either in the same fabric or an accent fabric.  Pin and sew right sides together, leaving a gap for turning.  Press the seam allowance for a crisper edge after turning.  
2. Trim corners.  Turn, making sure to press out corners with a pointed, blunt object.  Stitch the top, closing the opening.  Pin in place and stitch to your garment.  

BOX PLEAT POCKET:

1. Fold pocket in half, wrong sides together.  Stitch 1 inch from fold.  Open pleat and flatten, lining up fold line with stitch line.  Press flat.  
2. Turn top down ¼ inch and again ½ inch.  Stitch along edge line.  Fold remaining edges under ¼ inch and press.  Pin in place and stitch to your garment. 

GATHERED TOP POCKET:

1. Prepare the binding as double fold bias tape.  Fold the binding right sides together along the center fold and stitch shorts ends.  Trim seam allowances and turn right side out, tucking raw edges into the middle. 
2. On main pocket piece, stitch 3/8 inch along curved edge to assist with turn seam allowance.  Press under.  
3. Baste along top edge.  Gather to match prepared binding.  Tuck gathers into binding and stitch in place.  
4. Pin pocket in place and stitch to your garment.  

CLASSIC PATCH POCKET:

1. This pocket consists of an outer and inner layer for each pocket.   Pin ride sides together and sew along both curved edges with a ¼ inch seam allowance.  Clip curves and turn right side out.  Press both curves.  Top stitch upper curve with one or two rows of stitches.  
2. Place and pin in place on the skirt or bottoms, matching the side and top with the raw edges of the pocket.  Stitch the bottom curve of the pocket in place.  Repeat with second pocket.  Continue with construction of the skirt.  If the waist is gathered, do not gather the top of the pocket.

ROUND FAUX FLAT POCKET:

1. This pocket has a lining and main piece.  On either piece stitch along the 3/8 inch seam allowance for 2 inches.  Pin and stitch the main and lining right sides together, leaving open where you previously stitched.  Clip curve, except in the opening.  Press open the seam allowance of the opening, using your stitches as a guide.  Turn right sides out and press.  
2. Fold down the faux flap to your desired size.  Mark the fold and stitch between the marks.  Refold flap and add a decorative button, stitching through all layers.  Pin pocket in place and stitch to your garment.

Congratulations, your Ultimate Patch Pockets are done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpultimatepatchpockets.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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