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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
9
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Women Andie Coat
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
This stylish anorak pattern is a modern take on the classic anorak. The anorak is a-line and loose fitting with a raglan sleeve, two length options, a detachable hood and optional epaulettes, patch pockets, and sleeve buckles.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking Size – If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct chest measurement. That way, the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or into the correct waist and hip sizes. Before selecting a size, please also review the note below about cup sizes.
- Ladies sizes are designed for a sewing C cup (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup), If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA). However, as it’s an A line shape and looser fitting, it is more forgiving at the bust.
- Ladies sizes are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you may wish to make the following adjustments:
- Follow this tutorial to adjust the bodice
- As this pattern has a raglan sleeve you will need to follow this tutorial to adjust the sleeve
- You may notice on some pattern pieces that there is a slight shape difference. This is to ensure that, with such a wide size range, the pattern can still offer a great fit. Just print the size(s) you require and blend by drawing a smooth curve from one size to another. You’ll still need to add any necessary personal adjustments such as a full bust adjustment, bicep adjustment, and/or adjust for height.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you shouldn’t need to make any adjustments. Once you’ve made your muslin and feel you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller follow this tutorial.
- To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin first. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment to do this. I would recommend the following to muslin this coat:
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the front, back, collar, and sleeve pieces. Label each with tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen
- Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue on to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces…. It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- The exterior of the anorak needs to be a medium weight woven with a bit of structure. Suitable fabrics include twill, denim, heavy cotton, brushed cotton, corduroy, wool (e.g. melton, tweed or herringbone). Other options include a heavy-duty cotton/poplin such as cotton canvas, cotton duck or even gabardine drill.
- You could also use a waterproof fabric such as PUL, nylon, goretex, softshell, or ripstop. Softshell is slightly differently across the globe and some might not require lining. This pattern is intended to have a lining. If you would like a fully waterproof anorak, you will also need a waterproof sealant. If you select a thick or waterproof outer fabric, use a cotton or mesh fabric for inner yoke.
- The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric.
- Suitable fabrics include airtex mesh, habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew.
- You can also use a thicker woven fabric such as flannel, fleece or sherpa. As these fabrics are quite thick it will make the garment snugger. Please check the finished measurements to see if there is enough ease. It might be bit too snug with the extra fluffiness.
- OPTIONAL Buckles: 1¼ inch slider/buckle x 3 (2x sleeves, 1x hood)
- OPTIONAL Cording:
- 1 yard of cord for the hood opening. This is slightly more than needed so you can cut it to your preferred length in step 10.30.
- 2 x End toggles
- 2 x Metal eyelets 6mm (¼ inch) for opening
- ⅝ inch Snaps/buttons x 20, for center front, optional Pockets, optional shoulder epaulette, Collar, and optional Hood.
- OPTIONAL Teflon foot if you are using PUL type fabrics
- OPTIONAL Zipper foot for sewing on belt buckles
- OPTIONAL Interfacing – 1 yard should be enough for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Facing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Pleat: Center – Cut 1
- Back Pleat: Side – Cut 2
- Back Inner Yoke – Cut 1
- Back Outer Yoke – Cut 1
- Sleeves – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeve Facing – Cut 2
- Collar Stand – Cut 2
- Collar – Cut 2
- OPTIONAL Pockets:
- Pocket – Cut 2
- Pocket Flap – Cut 2
- NOTE – For Ladies Jacket and Coat Length there are separate pocket and pocket flap pieces for each length option.
- OPTIONAL Hood:
- Hood Outer – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Hood Facing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Hood Belt and Buckle:
- Hood Belt Strap – Cut 1
- Hood Buckle Strap – Cut 1
- OPTIONAL Shoulder Epaulettes:
- Shoulder Tab – Cut 2
- OPTIONAL Sleeve Buckle:
- Sleeve Tab – Cut 2
- Sleeve Buckle Tab – Cut 2
- OPTIONAL Belt Loops – Cut 1 (for hood, shoulder and sleeve tabs and straps, and hanging loop, which will be cut into the required lengths in step 2.7)
- Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Sleeves – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Hood – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket – Cut 2
Project OverviewDifficulty Level = Intermediate
The Andie Anorak is a loose fitting A-line shaped garment with raglan sleeves. Fully lined, this anorak is stylish, yet practical. It has two length options – jacket (finishes just past your hips) and coat (finishes just past your knees). Using a thick waterproof fabric for the outer yoke and a more breathable fabric for the inner yoke will create a breathable storm vent.
Use the optional detachable hood, epaulettes, and sleeve buckles to create a more traditional look. Add the optional oversized pockets, snaps, and hood belt with buckle to create a more modern look. It’s zip free, closing with snaps or buttons.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Jacket center back length (neck to hem)
Coat center back length (neck to hem)
Sleeve length (neck to cuff)
Bicep
XXS
42.1
24.5
35.5
27.0
15.5
XS
44.0
24.6
35.7
27.3
16.3
S
46.0
25.0
36.0
27.6
17.1
M
48.0
25.1
36.1
28.1
18.0
L
50.0
25.3
36.3
28.2
18.6
XL
53.0
25.7
36.7
28.4
19.3
XXL
56.0
26.1
37.1
28.6
20.5
3XL
59.2
26.5
37.5
29.0
21.6
4XL
62.0
27.0
38.0
29.1
22.7
5XL
65.2
27.2
38.3
29.2
24.0
Fitting NotesThis is an A-line shaped anorak with shoulder darts and raglan sleeves. It is designed to be loose fitting to be worn over thin layers. The anorak’s more fitted shoulders create a lovely silhouette. The optional hood is meant to be loose fitting around the head. With the additional cording option, the wearer can tighten the hood.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric
Lining fabric
* Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the anorak.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Jacket (Hip Length)
Coat (Knee Length)
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Hood with Straps
OPTIONAL Shoulder Epaulettes
OPTIONAL Sleeve Buckles
Jacket (Hip Length)
Coat (Knee Length)
OPTIONAL Hood with Straps
XXS
2.50
3.00
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
XS
2.50
3.00
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
S
2.75
3.25
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
M
2.75
3.25
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
2.00
2.50
0.75
L
2.75
3.50
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
2.25
2.75
0.75
XL
3.00
3.50
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
2.25
2.75
0.75
XXL
3.00
3.75
0.50
1.25
0.25
0.25
2.25
3.00
0.75
3XL
3.25
3.75
0.50
1.25
0.25
0.25
2.25
3.00
0.75
4XL
3.25
4.00
0.50
1.25
0.25
0.25
2.50
3.00
0.75
5XL
3.50
4.00
0.50
1.25
0.25
0.25
2.50
3.25
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Jacket (Hip Length)
Coat (Knee Length)
OPTIONAL Pockets
OPTIONAL Hood with Straps
OPTIONAL Shoulder Epaulettes
OPTIONAL Sleeve Buckles
Jacket (Hip Length)
Coat (Knee Length)
OPTIONAL Hood with Straps
XXS
2.00
2.25
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.50
2.00
0.75
XS
2.00
2.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.50
2.00
0.75
S
2.00
2.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.50
2.00
0.75
M
2.25
2.75
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.00
0.75
L
2.25
2.75
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
XL
2.25
2.75
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
XXL
2.50
3.00
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
3XL
2.50
3.00
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.25
1.75
2.25
0.75
4XL
2.50
3.25
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
2.00
2.25
0.75
5XL
2.50
3.25
0.50
1.00
0.25
0.25
2.00
2.50
0.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, and tape measure.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Jacket
lengthOPTIONAL
Jacket
pocketsCoat
lengthOPTIONAL
Coat
pocketsOPTIONAL
HoodOPTIONAL
Hood with
strapsSleeve
Buckle
and tabShoulder
epaulettesXXS –
XS4-12, 14-
15, 17, 18-
22, 24-27,
29-32, 35-
37, 39-42,
44-47, 59-
62, 69-77,
84-919-10, 12-13 4-12, 14-
15, 17, 18-
22, 24-27,
29-37, 39-
42, 44-47,
49-52, 54-
62, 69-77,
84-9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 S 4-12, 14-
15, 17-22,
24-32, 35-
37, 39-42,
44-47, 59-
62, 69-77,
84-919-10, 12-13 4-12, 14-
15, 17-22,
24-37, 39-
42, 44-47,
49-52, 54-
62, 69-77,
84-9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 M – L 4-12, 14-
15, 17-22,
24-32, 34-
37, 39-47,
59-62, 69-
77, 84-919-10, 12-13 4-12, 14-
15, 17-22,
24-37, 39-
52, 54-62,
69-77, 84-
9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 XL-XXL 3-12, 14-
22, 24-32,
34-37, 39-47, 59-62,
69-77, 84-919-10, 12-13 3-12, 14-
15, 17-22,
24-37, 39-62, 69-77,
84-9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 3XL 3-12, 14-
22, 24-37,
39-47, 58-
62, 69-77,
84-919-10, 12-13 3-12, 14-
22, 24-37,
39-62, 69-
77, 84-9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 4XL-
5XL3-12, 14-
22, 24-47,
58-62, 69-
77, 84-919-10, 12-13 3-12, 14-
22, 24-62,
69-77, 84-
9272-73, 81-
8348-53, 63-
68, 78-8048-53, 63-
68, 78-8013, 69-70 37-38, 83-86 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Jacket
lengthOPTIONAL
Jacket
pocketsCoat
lengthOPTIONAL
Coat
pocketsOPTIONAL
HoodOPTIONAL
Hood with
strapsSleeve
Buckle
and tabShoulder
epaulettesXXS –
XS4-12, 14-
16, 19-22,
24-32, 35-
37, 39-47,
54-57, 60-
62, 69-77,
83-913, 57-28,
72-734-12, 14-
17, 19-22,
24-37, 39-
47, 50-52,
54-58, 60-
62, 69-77,
83-9112-13, 81-
8248-53, 63-
68, 82-8348-53, 63-
68, 78-80,
82-8314, 69-71 23, 69-71 M – XL 4-16, 19-
22, 24-32,
35-37, 39-
47, 54-57,
60-62, 69-
77, 83-913, 57-28,
72-734-17, 19-
22, 24-37,
39-47, 50-
62, 69-77,
83-9112-13, 81-
8248-53, 63-
68, 82-8348-53, 63-
68, 78-80,
82-8314, 69-71 23, 69-71 XXL 3-16, 18-
22, 24-32,
35-47, 54-
57, 59-62,
69-77, 83-
913, 57-28,
72-733-22, 24-
47, 50-62,
69-77, 83-
9112-13, 81-
8248-53, 63-
69, 82-8348-53, 63-
69, 78-80,
82-8314, 69-71 23, 69-71 3XL-
5XL3-16, 18-
32, 35-47,
54-57, 59-
62, 69-77,
83-913, 57-28,
72-733-47, 50-
62, 69-77,
83-9112-13, 81-
8248-53, 63-
69, 82-8348-53, 63-
69, 78-80,
82-8314, 69-71 23, 69-71 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
Jacket Length
Middle pleat
(cut 1)Side pleat
(cut 2)OPTIONAL Pocket
(cut 2)OPTIONAL Pocket flap (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS – L
3.0
20.0
2.0
20.0
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
XL
3.0
20.2
2.0
20.2
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
XXL
3.0
20.4
2.0
20.4
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
3XL
3.0
20.6
2.0
20.6
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
4XL
3.0
21.0
2.0
21.0
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
5XL
3.0
21.1
2.0
21.1
8.0
8.1
8.1
3.4
Coat Length
Middle pleat
(cut 1)Side pleat (cut 2)
OPTIONAL Pocket
(cut 2)
OPTIONAL Pocket flap (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS – L
3.0
31.0
2.0
31.0
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
XL
3.0
31.2
2.0
31.2
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
XXL
3.0
31.4
2.0
31.4
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
3XL
3.0
31.6
2.0
31.6
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
4XL
3.0
32.0
2.0
32.0
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
5XL
3.0
32.1
2.0
32.1
9.2
11.6
10.0
5.0
OPTIONAL Shoulder tab (cut 2)
OPTIONAL Sleeve tab
(cut 2)OPTIONAL Sleeve buckle tab (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
14.5
XS
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
15.1
S
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
15.3
M
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
15.7
L
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
16.1
XL
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
16.5
XXL
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
17.1
3XL
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
17.3
4XL
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
17.3
5XL
3.5
10.0
3.5
15.4
3.5
18.1
OPTIONAL Hood belt strap (cut 1)
OPTIONAL Hood buckle strap
(cut 1)OPTIONAL Belt loops (cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
3.5
21.7
3.5
15.3
3.0
21.0
XS
3.5
22.1
3.5
15.5
3.0
21.0
S
3.5
22.1
3.5
15.7
3.0
21.0
M
3.5
22.3
3.5
16.1
3.0
21.0
L
3.5
22.5
3.5
16.1
3.0
21.0
XL
3.5
22.7
3.5
16.3
3.0
21.0
XXL
3.5
23.1
3.5
16.5
3.0
21.0
3XL
3.5
23.1
3.5
16.7
3.0
21.0
4XL
3.5
23.3
3.5
17.1
3.0
21.0
5XL
3.5
23.5
3.5
17.1
3.0
21.0
Cutting Checklist:
Main Fabric:
Lining Fabric:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer markings to all your pieces.
- INTERFACING – Iron interfacing onto the Front Facings, Sleeve Facings, 1x Collar, 1x Collar Stand, and the Hood Facing pieces.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch non-interfaced Collar, both main and lining Front pieces, the Back Outer, and Inner Yoke pieces and both main and Lining Sleeves.
- SLEEVE DARTS – Mark and stitch the sleeve darts on the main and lining sleeves.
- OPTIONAL TABS, BELTS, AND LOOPS – For the Shoulder Tab, Hood Buckle Strap, Hood Belt Strap, Sleeve Strap, and Sleeve Tab pieces, fold each piece in half, wrong sides together and sew along one short edge and the long edge. Trim seam allowance and turn right sides out. Press. For the belt loop piece, fold, and press like double fold bias tape, then topstitch along both long edges. Cut into five equal pieces. Fold each short end under ½ inch and press.
- BACK – Right sides together, stitch the side pleat to the back piece along center back seam. Press the seam open. Repeat for other side pleat and back piece. Mark two inches down this seam. Place back pieces right sides together along this mark and stitch in the ditch. Press pleats to the wrong side and topstitch the center back. Right sides together, align center pleat piece with each side pleat, keeping the back pieces out of the way. Sew. Baste the top edge of the back and pleat to hold it in place. Right sides together, stitch the back inner yoke along top edge of back. Press seam allowance up and trim overhanging triangles. Fold the raw edge over ½ inch, and again ½ inch. Topstitch to finish hem. Baste the back outer yoke to the inner yoke along front and back armscyes.
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Right sides together, sew pocket to pocket lining, leaving a 2-inch gap along bottom edge for turning. Clip corners and trim seam allowance. Turn, press, and topstitch along top edge. Fold pocket flap in half, right sides together. Sew non-folded sides, leaving a 2-inch gap for turning. Clip corners, trim seam allowance, turn, and press. Topstitch along all sewn edges. Add snaps to pocket and pocket flap. Align pocket and stitch along bottom and sides. Sew flap. Repeat for second pocket and pocket flap.
- FRONT FACING – Sew front facing piece to front piece, right sides together. Press the facing to the wrong side. Repeat for opposite front facing.
- SLEEVES – Sew sleeve loop over sleeve dart. Baste the shoulder tab over the dart along the raw edge. Sew sleeve facing to bottom of sleeve, right sides together. Press seam allowance open. OPTIONAL SLEEVE BELT – Place buckle on sleeve buckle tab and stitch as close to the buckle as possible. Baste sleeve buckle tab and sleeve belt to the sleeve. Attach loop halfway across the sleeve. Sew sleeve to front and back yoke. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for second sleeve.
- COLLAR – Right sides together, sew collar pieces together along both short ends and the outer curve. Trim seam allowance, clip corners, turn, and press. OPTIONAL – Topstitch around edge of collar. Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced collar stand ½ inch to the wrong side. Matching centers, sandwich collar between collar stands, unfold the pressed edge, and stitch. Trim seam allowance, clip corners, turn, and press. Matching centers, align collar stand and bodice along seam line. Stitch.
- LINING – Stitch center back seam, right sides together. Press seam open. Create box pleat using the pattern markings. Sew each sleeve to back piece. Attach matching front piece to each sleeve. Press sleeve seams open.
- JOINING THE LINING TO THE ANORAK – Open the front outer facing. Align and stitch the lining front to the front facing. Press toward the facing. Repeat for second facing. Wrong sides together, align and stitch top neck edge of lining with outer and collar stand. Align pressed edge of collar stand over seam allowances and topstitch all the way around collar stand. Right sides together, align and stitch hem of sleeve. Press seam open. Repeat for second sleeve. Right sides together, match front and back lining pieces. Align and sew, leaving a 6-inch gap on one side for turning. Press seam open. Trim seam allowance of optional sleeve belt and tab. Match the bottom edge of the lining and outer. Stitch, then roll the seam toward the lining and press open. Stitch the front facing closed at the hem. Repeat for second front facing. Turn the jacket right side out. Press. Use a slipstitch to close the turning gap.
- OPTIONAL HOOD – Stitch hood facing to hood lining along straight edge. Press seam open. Repeat for second hood facing and lining. Right sides together, stitch hood pieces together along outer curve, leaving a 4-inch gap for turning. Press seam open. Stitch hood outer pieces, right sides together, along outer curve. Press seam open. Slide hood buckle strap through one end of the buckle, overlapping 3 inches. Stitch the two layers together around all four sides, stitching as close to the buckle as possible. Centered over the curve seam, stitch buckle strap to the hood. Place hood belt strap over center seam starting from neck edge. Stitch a rectangle 3 inches up from raw. Attach loop halfway between hood buckle strap and hood belt strap. Attach eyelets at pattern markings. Right sides together, align and stitch hood lining to hood outer. Clip corners, trim seam allowance, turn, and press. Slipstitch the turning gap closed. If adding a drawstring, topstitch ¾ from eyelet and around front curve. Insert drawstring.
- FASTENINGS – Follow manufacturer’s instructions to add snaps.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk. You will need to mark shoulder darts, sleeve buckle and sleeve tab, snap/button placements on Front, Hood, Pocket Flap, Pocket and Sleeve Tab, the front and back of each sleeve and pocket placement.
0.2Interfacing
Depending on the weight of your fabric, you may want to add interfacing to the pattern pieces that will have snaps. Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to the Front Facings, Sleeve Facings, 1x Collar, 1x Collar Stand, and the Hood Facing pieces.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t stay stitch, the anorak is likely to stretch during construction and then, the collar and collar stand won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. Staystitch the non-interfaced Collar, both main and lining Front pieces, the Back Outer and Inner Yoke pieces and both main and Lining Sleeves, in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Sleeve Darts1.0There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
1.1Lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.
Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
1.2Draw the dart in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
1.3Fold the fabric, right sides together, down the centerline of the dart. Press.
TIP – Depending on your fabric choice, you may find it best to work with a press cloth when pressing. You can use a piece of cotton or even a clean pillowcase will work. Press with a low or medium heat.
1.4Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart.
TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.
1.5Press the dart toward the front of the Sleeve.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the dart on the other main Sleeve and both Lining Sleeves.
2 . OPTIONAL Tabs, Belts and Belt Loops2.0If you aren’t adding the Tab, Belt and Belt Loop details to your Shoulders, Sleeves or Hood, skip to step 3. Each Tab and Belt need a Belt Loop to help hold it in place. The Belt Loop piece is long enough to cut an optional Hanging Loop to add in step 8.7.
2.1Fold the Shoulder Tab in half lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin along one of the short ends and down the long side. NOTE – Your snap pattern marking will be on the short end you are pinning closed.
2.2Stitch along one of the short ends and down the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.3Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners to reduce bulk.
2.4Turn right side out.
TIPS FOR TURNING:
Method A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Very delicately, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.
Method B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
2.5Topstitch along one of the long edges, across the short edge, and down the other long edge, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the following pieces: the other Shoulder Tab, Hood Buckle Strap, Hood Belt Strap, Sleeve Straps and Sleeve Tabs.
2.7Fold the Belt Loop piece in half, wrong sides together. Press.
2.8Open the piece and fold the raw edge to meet in the middle. Press.
2.9Fold the piece in half, so that the raw edges are now enclosed in the middle. Press.
2.10Top stitch down each of the long edges using a ⅛ seam allowance.
2.11Cut the strip into six pieces that are each 3½ inches long for the ladies sizes, and 2½ inches long for the child sizes.
NOTE – The sixth piece is for the optional Hanging Loop.
2.12Take one piece and fold the ends under ½ inch. Press.
2.13Repeat step 2.12 for the remaining pieces, except the optional Hanging Loop.
3 . Back3.1With right sides together, pin the Back Pleat: Side piece to a Back piece, along the center back seam.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.3With wrong sides facing up, press the seam allowance open.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other Back Pleat: Side piece and the other Back piece.
3.5Measure 2 inches down on the seam between the Back and Side Pleat and mark with a disappearing ink pen or chalk.
3.6Place the Back pieces right sides together. Pin together at the mark you made in step 3.5.
3.7Stitch directly along the seam until you reach the mark you made in step 3.5. NOTE – This is called stitching in the ditch. Your stitches won’t be seen.
3.8Open the Back pieces, wrong sides facing up. Press each Side Pleat toward the wrong side.
3.9Turn the Back piece over, right sides facing up. Topstitch close to the folded edge where the Back and Side Pleats are sewn together.
3.10Fold the Back pieces right sides together and open out the pleats.
Place the Back Pleat: Center piece on top of a Back Pleat: Side piece, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Check you have only pinned the Center and Side Pleats together and not the Back piece.
3.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You are only sewing through two layers of fabric: the Side Pleat and the Center Pleat. Check that you aren’t stitching the back pieces.
3.12Repeat steps 3.10 to 3.11 to attach the other side of the Back Pleat: Center piece to the other Back Pleat: Side.
3.13Open your Back piece and place it wrong side up.
Pin the Pleats to the Back pieces along the top edge.
NOTE – The Side Pleats will be in between the Back pieces and the Center Pleat.
3.14Baste the Pleats to the Back using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.
NOTE – If you have top stitched the Back Pleat: Side in step 3.9, with right sides facing up, roll the side of the pleat towards the center. Press. Baste across the bottom to keep it in place. Repeat for the other side. This will keep the pleat flat when you join the Lining to the Anorak.
3.15Turn the Back piece right side up. Find the center of your Inner Yoke. Place it, right sides together, onto the Back piece, matching the center of the Yoke to center back seam.
Pin together ½ inch away from the raw edge, at the seam allowance.
3.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.17Turn the Back piece wrong sides facing up. Press the seam allowance up towards the Yoke.
3.18Trim the pointy ends of the seam allowance.
3.19Remove the basting stitches from the Pleat sewn in step 3.14.
3.20Fold the bottom edge of the Back Outer Yoke ½ inch toward the wrong side and press.
3.21Fold it another ½ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.
3.22Topstitch close to the folded edge.
3.23Place the Back piece right sides facing up. Lay the Outer Yoke, right sides facing up, over the Inner Yoke. Pin the Yokes together along the armscye.
3.24Baste the Yokes together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 3.23 to 3.24 to baste the Yokes along the opposite armscye.
3.25Baste the yokes together along the collar edge.
4 . OPTIONAL Pockets4.0If you aren’t adding pockets to your Anorak, skip to step 5. The steps are the same for either size pocket.
4.1Place the Pocket and Pocket Lining pieces right sides together. Pin around all four sides, leaving a 2 inch gap along the bottom edge. This is where you will turn the Pocket out.
4.2Stitch around all four sides of the Pocket, using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the 2-inch gap unsewn at the bottom.
4.3Clip the corners and trim the seam allowances to prevent bulk.
4.4Turn the Pocket right side out through the gap, ensuring all the raw edges are tucked inside. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
4.5Topstitch along the top edge of the Pocket using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
4.6Fold the Pocket Flap in half, right sides together, matching the long edges. Pin along the raw edges, leaving a 2-inch gap at the long edge. This is where you will turn the Pocket Flap out.
4.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the 2-inch gap unsewn.
4.8Clip the corners and trim the seam allowances to prevent bulk.
4.9Turn the Pocket Flap right side out through the gap, ensuring all the raw edges are tucked inside. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
4.10Topstitch along the short edge, across the bottom and up the other short edge of the Pocket Flap, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
This will close the 2-inch gap.
4.11Using the manufacturer’s instructions, add snaps to the Pocket Flap and Pocket at the pattern markings.
TIP – You want the cap to be on the Pocket Flap and the socket on the Pocket.
NOTE – If you would prefer to use buttons, use the placement on the Pocket Flap to sew a buttonhole and sew a button at the pattern marking on the pocket.
4.12Lay a Front piece right side facing up. Pin the Pocket, at the pattern markings.
TIP – Check the Pocket is facing the right way up with the snaps on the outside facing up.
TIP – I recommend using a zipper foot here as it will be easier to sew around the snaps.
NOTE – If you are sewing a Childs Anorak there is only one pocket placement for both length options. Each size is lined up to the top of the placement, but the jacket pocket will finish shorter than the pocket placement.
NOTE – If you are sewing a Ladies Anorak there are two separate placements for jacket and coat length Pockets.
4.13Stitch along the side of the Pocket, across the bottom and up the other side, using a ⅛ seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch across the top edge of the Pocket.
4.14Place the Pocket Flap 1 inch above the Pocket and pin it to the Front along the top edge.
TIP – Push the snaps together before pinning. This will ensure the Pocket and Pocket Flaps are aligned, and you will be able to close the Pocket.
4.15Stitch along the top edge of the Pocket Flap using a ⅛ seam allowance.
4.16Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.15 for the Pocket on the other side.
5 . Front Facing5.1Place the Front Facing onto the Front piece, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The Front Facing is shorter than the Front piece. You will need to match up the top edge of the Facing to the top of the Front piece
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, stopping ½ inch from the bottom edge of the Front Facing piece.
5.3Flip the Front over, wrong sides facing up. Fold the Facing to the wrong side and press.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 for the Front Facing on the other side.
6 . Sleeves6.0If you aren’t sewing Shoulder Tabs and Belt Loops, skip to step 6.5.
6.1Place your Sleeve right side facing up. With the folded edges facing under, place a Belt Loop at the end of the dart.
NOTE – The Belt Loop will be perpendicular to the shoulder dart, Pin.
6.2Stitch approximately ⅛ inch away from each folded edge.
6.3Place the Shoulder Tab over the dart, matching raw edges. Pin.
6.4Baste the Shoulder Tab to the Sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 to add a Belt Loop and Shoulder Tab to the other Sleeve.
6.5Place the Sleeve Facing, right sides together, onto the bottom of the Sleeve. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the shorter edge of the Sleeve Facing to the Sleeve. The longer edge will be attached to the Sleeve Lining.
6.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Open the facing out and press the seam allowance towards the facing. This will make it easier to attach the Sleeve Tab.
Repeat steps 6.5 to 6.6 for the other Sleeve Facing.
6.7If you are not adding Sleeve Belts, skip to step 6.16.
Take a Sleeve Buckle Tab and feed it through one opening of the buckle. Fold the Tab over, matching up the short ends to form a loop. Pin the ends together.
6.8With the buckle at the end of the folded edge, stitch the two layers together, stitching parallel to buckle.
TIP – Stitch as close to the buckle as you can. This will help prevent the buckle from sliding around on the sleeve tab.
TIP – I recommend using a zipper foot here as you will be able to get closer to the buckle.
6.9Lay your Sleeve right side facing up. Place the Buckle Tab at the pattern marking, matching the raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – You are attaching the Buckle Tab to the back of the Sleeve.
6.10Baste the Sleeve Tab to the Sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching through the Sleeve and both layers of the Sleeve Tab.
6.11Place the Sleeve Belt at the pattern marking on the front side of the Sleeve, and pin.
6.12Baste the Sleeve Belt to the Sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.13Measure halfway between the Sleeve Buckle Strap and the Sleeve Tab and pin the Belt Loop in place.
6.14Stitch along each short edge, approximately ⅛ inch away from the folded edge.
6.15Feed the Sleeve Belt through the Belt Loop, through the open end of the buckle, and back through the Belt Loop.
Repeat steps 6.7 to 6.15 for the other Sleeve.
6.16Place a Sleeve, right sides together, onto a Front piece, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the front piece.
6.17Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.18Press the seam allowance open.
6.19Lay the Back piece right sides facing up. Take the other side of the Sleeve and place it onto the curved edge of the Yoke, right sides together. Pin.
6.20Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.21Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 6.16 to 6.21 to attach the other Sleeve.
7 . Collar7.1Place the Collar pieces right sides together.
Pin together at both the short edges and around the outer curved edge.
7.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.3Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.
7.4Turn right side out. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick to push out the corners.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch around the edge of the Collar using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
7.5Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Collar Stand ½ inch to the wrong side along the long bottom curved edge.
7.6Find the center of your Collar and mark the raw edge with a pin.
Find the center of both Collar Stands and mark with a pin along the top curved edge.
7.7With right sides together, sandwich the Collar between the Collar Stands, matching the non-interfaced Collar Stand to the non-interfaced Collar. The Collar Stand notches will match the end of the Collar.
TIP – If you find it difficult to sandwich and pin three layers together, and your fabric could slip easily, baste one Collar Stand to the Collar. Then pin the other Collar Stand.
7.8Unfold the pressed seam from step 7.5. Stitch together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.9Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves, taking care to not snip into the stitches.
7.10Turn right side out.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick to push out the corners.
Press the seam allowance down.
7.11Lay your main anorak right sides facing up.
Mark the center of the Back with a pin.
With right sides together, match the center point of the interfaced Collar Stand to the center point. Pin.
Open the Front Facing on each side. Pin together along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.
NOTE – The Collar Stand ends at the seam between the Front and the Front Facing.
NOTE – If you have added Shoulder Tabs, you will be stitching over these. Check that you have caught all layers in your stitching as this is how the Tabs will be secured.
7.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar stand up when the Anorak is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Do not snip further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.
NOTE – Check you have not sewn the collar to the Front Facing.
TIP – Trim the seam allowance of the Shoulder Tabs to reduce bulk.
8 . Lining8.1Place the two Back pieces right sides together. Pin along the center back seam (the straight edge).
8.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.3Open the back piece flat and press the seam allowance open.
8.4You are now going to create a box pleat on the Back Lining.
With right sides facing up, insert pins at the top markings of the Back piece.
8.5Take the Back piece, from one pinned point, and fold it to meet the center back seam.
Remove that pin and use it to pin the fold in place.
Repeat for the other side.
8.6Baste the pleat in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you would like to attach a label, measure 1½ inches down from the raw edge and stitch it in place.
NOTE – It is handy to have a little hanging loop at the center back of your Anorak for hanging on hooks. If you would like to add one, follow the next step or skip to step 8.8 to attach the Sleeve.
8.7Measure ½ inch on either side of the center of the pleat. Using the Hanging Loop, you created in step 2, pin each end of the Hanging Loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the Hanging Loop is attached by the full seam allowance.
Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.
8.8Place a Sleeve, right sides together, onto the back piece, matching the back armscye (curved edge) and the back of the Sleeve.
8.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.10Press the seam allowance open.
8.11Place a Front piece, right sides together, onto the Sleeve, matching the armscye to the front of the Sleeve. Pin.
8.12Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.13Press the seam allowance open.
8.14Repeat steps 8.8 to 8.12 to attach the other Sleeve.
9 . Joining the Lining to the Anorak9.1Unfold the front facing and place the Anorak right side up.
With right sides together, pin the Front lining piece to the Front Facing.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.3Press the seam allowance towards the Facing.
9.4Turn right side out. Press the Facing flat.
Now that your Facing and Front Lining are attached, they will be the same size as the main Front piece.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.4 to attach the other side of the Front Lining and Front piece.
9.5Lay your bodice flat, right sides of the Lining facing up.
Pin the top of the Lining, wrong sides together, to the seam allowance of the main Anorak and Collar Stand.
9.6Starting from the facing, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up.
9.7Take the folded edge of the Collar Stand and place it over the seam allowance sewn in step 9.6. Check that all raw edges are enclosed and pin in place.
9.8Topstitch all the way around the Collar Stand using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
9.9Place the main Sleeve and the Sleeve Lining, right sides together. Pin the Sleeve Facing to the Sleeve Lining.
9.10Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.11Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 9.9 to 9.11 for the other Sleeve.
9.12Match the Front and Back Lining pieces, right sides together. Pin together at the side seam, up along the Sleeve Lining and main Sleeve, and down the main side seam.
9.13Mark a gap, using a disappearing ink pen or chalk, on the Lining piece side seam. This is where you will turn the Anorak out.
For ladies leave a 6-inch gap and for children a 3-inch gap.
NOTE – You only need to leave an opening on one side of the Lining.
9.14Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.15Press the seam allowance open.
If you haven’t added a Sleeve Belt, skip to step 9.17. If you have, follow step 9.16.
9.16Trim the seam allowance of the Sleeve Belt and Sleeve Tab to prevent bulk.
9.17Match the bottom edge of the Lining to the bottom edge of the Anorak, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – The main Anorak is longer than the Lining, however, you want to match up the bottom raw edges. This will pull the main Anorak up inside, towards the Lining, when sewn together.
9.18Stitch along the bottom edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.19Roll the seam toward the Lining, so that the main and Lining are now the same length.
9.20Press the seam allowance open.
9.21You will need to stitch the Front Facing closed at the hem. Starting from the end of the existing stitch line, stitch straight down to the hem.
Repeat for the other Front Facing.
9.22Turn the Anorak right sides out, through the gap in the side seam of the Lining.
9.23Push out the corners.
Press along the bottom hem of the Anorak.
9.24Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the opening in the Lining. This type of stitch allows you to close the opening without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside of the Anorak. You will be stitching along the folded edge. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening, up through one of the folded edges.
9.25Insert the needle into the other side, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
9.26Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the fold and pull the thread through.
9.27Continue to stitch along the folded edge, alternating from the top to the bottom fold.
NOTE – You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.
10 . OPTIONAL Hood10.1Place the Hood Facing onto the Hood Lining, right sides together, along the straight edge. Pin.
