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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Women's Basic Underwear
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This comfortable underwear pattern fits well and has full bum coverage. There are three rise options, optional elastic and band finishes, as well as the option of having unlined or fully lined knickers.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the edge of the leg using your hip measurement size.
- Height Adjustment – This underwear is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and or bum. Follow this free tutorial to adjust the tummy. NOTE – The shape is slightly different in this tutorial. In step 1.2 you do not cut off the bottom piece. You need to cut through the underwear at the seam under the bum.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and us a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final underwear.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final underwear.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, or cotton lycra (CL).
- Both 4-way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2-way stretch fabrics will work. For 2-way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so that the stretch runs at right angles to the grainline.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your underwear maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- Elastic OPTIONS ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes:
- Picot Elastic
- OR Enclosed Elastic – use Knitted or Lingerie Elastic
- OR Fold Over Elastic
- OPTIONAL Decorative bow – 1x small lingerie satin bow
- Thread to match
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Front:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – Each rise has its own Waistband piece
- Leg Bands – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Front:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- Waistband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – Each rise has its own Waistband piece
- Leg Bands – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Gusset – Lining cut 1 on fold
- Front:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh cut 1 on fold
- Back:
- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Lining cut 1 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewBasic Underwear
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Meet your everyday underwear; a super simple sew with a great fit that can be lined or unlined. You can add optional power mesh to the lined version for added tummy support. There are three rises to choose from – low, mid, or high and four finishing options – picot, fold over or enclosed elastic, or bands. Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy underwear.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
1
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
2
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
3
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
4
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
5
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
6
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
7
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
8
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
9
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
10
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
6C
44.0
111.8
36.0
94.1
48.0
121.9
7C
47.0
119.4
39.0
99.0
51.0
129.5
8C
50.0
127.0
43.0
109.2
54.0
137.2
9C
53.0
134.6
47.0
119.4
57.5
146.1
10C
56.0
142.2
51.0
129.5
61.0
154.9
11C
60.0
152.4
55.0
139.7
64.5
163.8
12C
64.0
162.6
59.0
149.9
68.0
172.7
13C
68.0
172.7
63.0
160.0
72.0
182.9
14C
72.0
182.9
67.0
170.2
76.0
193.0
15C
76.0
193.0
71.0
180.3
80.0
203.2
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Low waist
Mid waist
High Waist
Hip
Low rise
Mid rise
High rise
Front
Back
Front
Back
Front
Back
1
25.0
22.7
20.3
26.5
9.7
8.1
11.7
10.1
13.7
12.1
2
26.5
24.0
21.5
27.3
10.1
8.5
12.1
10.5
14.1
12.5
3
27.7
25.1
22.5
29.0
10.5
9.0
12.5
11.0
14.5
13.0
4
29.3
26.7
24.1
30.5
11.0
9.3
13.0
11.3
15.0
13.3
5
31.0
28.3
26.5
32.0
11.3
9.7
13.3
11.7
15.3
13.7
6
33.3
30.7
28.3
34.5
11.7
10.1
13.7
12.1
15.7
14.1
7
35.5
33.1
30.7
36.3
12.1
10.5
14.1
12.5
16.1
14.5
8
38.5
36.0
34.5
38.7
12.5
11.0
14.5
13.0
16.5
15.0
9
40.7
38.7
37.1
41.0
13.0
11.3
15.0
13.3
17.0
15.3
10
43.3
41.7
40.1
43.3
13.3
11.6
15.3
13.6
17.3
15.6
Low waist
Mid waist
High Waist
Hip
Low rise
Mid rise
High rise
Front
Back
Front
Back
Front
Back
6C
36.1
32.9
28.7
38.5
11.7
9.7
13.7
11.7
16.2
14.2
7C
38.5
35.5
31.3
40.9
12.1
10.2
14.1
12.2
16.6
14.7
8C
41.3
38.5
34.5
43.1
12.5
10.7
14.5
12.7
17.0
15.2
9C
43.7
40.7
37.7
45.7
13.0
11.2
15.0
13.2
17.4
15.7
10C
46.9
43.9
40.7
48.5
13.4
12.0
15.5
14.0
18.0
16.5
11C
50.5
47.1
43.9
51.3
14.0
12.7
16.0
14.7
18.4
17.2
12C
53.7
50.5
47.5
54.1
14.4
13.4
16.5
15.4
19.0
18.0
13C
56.3
53.9
50.7
57.5
15.0
14.1
17.0
16.0
19.4
18.6
14C
59.7
56.7
54.1
60.5
15.4
14.7
17.5
16.7
20.0
19.3
15C
62.9
59.7
57.1
63.7
16.0
15.4
18.0
17.4
20.4
20.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Bands
1 – 8
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
9 – 10
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Bands
6C – 8C
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
9C – 15C
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Low rise Mid Rise High Rise OPTIONAL
Leg bandsOPTIONAL
Gusset1 – 6 2-9 2-9 2-9 8-9 3 7 2-10 2-9 2-9 8-9 3 8 – 10 2-10 2-10 2-10 8-9 3 Low rise Mid Rise High Rise Under
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandUnder
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandUnder
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandOPTIONAL
Leg BandsOPTIONAL
Gusset6C – 9C 2-11 12-14 2-11 12-14 2-11 2-4, 6-7 2-7 8-9 10C 2-11 12-14 2-11 12-14 2-11 2-4, 6-7 2-7 8-9 11C – 15C 2-11 12-15 2-11 12-15 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7 2-7 8-9 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Low rise Mid Rise High Rise OPTIONAL
Leg bandsOPTIONAL
Gusset1 – 2 2-6, 8-9 2-9 2-9 8-9 3 3 – 6 2-9 2-9 2-9 8-9 3 7 2-10 2-10 2-9 8-9 3 8 – 10 2-10 2-10 2-10 8-9 3 Low rise Mid Rise High Rise Under
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandUnder
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandUnder
wearOPTIONAL
WaistbandOPTIONAL
Leg BandsOPTIONAL
Gusset6C – 7C 2-11 12-14 2-11 12-14 2-11 7-8 3-4 10 8 – 9C 2-11 12-14 2-11 12-14 2-11 7-9 3-4 10 10C 2-11 12-14 2-11 12-14 2-11 7-9 3-5 10 11 – 12C 2-11 12-15 2-11 12-15 2-11 7-9 3-5 10 13 – 15C 2-11 12-15 2-11 12-15 2-11 7-10 3-5 10 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
ANY Elastic OPTION ⅜ wide
Leg
(Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
High Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
1
19.0
23.2
21.0
18.6
2
20.2
24.0
22.0
19.6
3
21.2
25.2
23.0
20.4
4
22.2
26.6
24.0
22.0
5
23.0
28.0
26.0
24.0
6
24.4
30.0
28.0
26.0
7
26.0
32.0
30.0
28.0
8
27.2
34.6
32.4
31.0
9
29.0
37.0
35.2
32.0
10
30.2
39.2
38.0
36.2
Band OPTION
Leg (Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch
Lace cut 1)Mid Rise Waist
OPTION (Fabric / Stretch
Lace cut 1)High Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch
Lace cut 1)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
1
1.5
19.0
2.0
23.2
2.0
21.0
2.0
18.6
2
1.5
20.2
2.0
24.0
2.0
22.0
2.0
19.6
3
1.5
21.2
2.0
25.2
2.0
23.0
2.0
20.4
4
1.5
22.2
2.0
26.6
2.0
24.0
2.0
22.0
5
1.5
23.0
2.0
28.0
2.0
26.0
2.0
24.0
6
1.5
24.4
2.0
30.0
2.0
28.0
2.0
26.0
7
1.5
26.0
2.0
32.0
2.0
30.0
2.0
28.0
8
1.5
27.2
2.0
34.6
2.0
32.4
2.0
31.0
9
1.5
29.0
2.0
37.0
2.0
35.2
2.0
32.0
10
1.5
30.2
2.0
39.2
2.0
38.0
2.0
36.2
ANY Elastic OPTION ⅜ wide
Leg (Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
High Rise Waist OPTION (Elastic/ Stretch Lace cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
6C
20.0
29.2
28.0
25.0
7C
21.4
32.0
30.4
27.4
8C
23.0
34.4
33.0
30.6
9C
25.0
37.0
36.0
34.0
10C
27.0
40.0
38.6
37.0
11C
29.0
43.2
42.0
40.0
12C
31.0
46.4
45.0
44.0
13C
33.0
50.0
48.2
47.0
14C
35.0
53.0
51.4
50.0
15C
37.0
56.0
54.6
53.0
Band OPTION
Leg (Cut 2)
Low Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1)
Mid Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1)
High Rise Waist OPTION (Fabric / Stretch Lace cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
6C
1.5
20.0
2.0
29.2
2.0
28.0
2.0
25.0
7C
1.5
21.4
2.0
32.0
2.0
30.4
2.0
27.4
8C
1.5
23.0
2.0
34.4
2.0
33.0
2.0
30.6
9C
1.5
25.0
2.0
37.0
2.0
36.0
2.0
34.0
10C
1.5
27.0
2.0
40.0
2.0
38.6
2.0
37.0
11C
1.5
29.0
2.0
43.2
2.0
42.0
2.0
40.0
12C
1.5
31.0
2.0
46.4
2.0
45.0
2.0
44.0
13C
1.5
33.0
2.0
50.0
2.0
48.2
2.0
47.0
14C
1.5
35.0
2.0
53.0
2.0
51.4
2.0
50.0
15C
1.5
37.0
2.0
56.0
2.0
54.6
2.0
53.0
Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:Option
Description
What pattern pieces you’ll need
Basic Underwear (select one)
Picot Elastic finish
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with picot elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining.
Fold Over Elastic finish
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with fold over elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining.
OR
A low-, mid- or high-Rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with fold over elastic and an optional bow.
OR
Bands option
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with bands at the legs and waist and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining.
OR
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with bands at the legs and waist and an optional bow.
OR
Enclosed elastic option
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear with a gusset. Finished with enclosed elastic and an optional bow. Without power mesh or lining.
OR
A low-, mid- or high-rise underwear without a gusset, with optional power mesh and lined. Finished with enclosed elastic and an optional bow.
OR
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvedge edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste Power Mesh Front to the wrong side of the Main Front.
- GUSSET OPTION – OPTIONAL: Finish the front raw edge of Gusset. Layer Gusset Lining, Main Back and Main Front: Gusset Lining right side up, Main Back right side up, Main Front piece wrong side up. Match bottom edges. Stitch. Open the Underwear with the Gusset laid flat against Main Front, wrong sides together. Press. Baste Gusset to Front at the side seams. OPTIONAL: Stitch front of Gusset to Main Front. Skip to step 3.
- LINED OPTION – Lay Main Back right side facing up. Place Main Front on top right side facing down, matching bottom edges. Stitch. Open Underwear flat, right sides facing up. Press. Repeat with Front and Back Lining.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Front to the Back at side seams, right sides together. Press seams to back. Repeat for lining if required.
- LINED OPTION: ATTACHING TO MAIN – Place Main Underwear right side facing out. Take Underwear Lining, wrong side facing out, and slide it inside Main. Match side seams and baste together at waist. Match raw edges of leg openings and baste Main and Lining together.
- PICOT ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the leg elastic ½ inch and stitch. Place elastic on right side of leg opening, do not stretch along Gusset and Front, stretch slightly along the back. Stitch. Turn to wrong side of Underwear, pin and topstitch. Repeat. Overlap waist elastic ½ inch and stitch. Quarter the elastic and the top edge of the Underwear. With right side together, pin elastic matching the quarter points, stretching elastic slightly. Baste, then turn it to wrong side, pin and stitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
- FOLD OVER ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the waist fold over elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of fold over elastic and waist. On wrong side of Underwear, match quarter points. Pin raw edge of Underwear to the middle of fold over elastic. Stretch elastic slightly between quarter points and stitch. Turn top edge over to right side and stitch. Repeat for leg elastic. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
- BANDS OPTION – Fold Waistband in half, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch and press. Fold Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points of Waistband and Underwear. Lay Underwear right sides facing up. Place Waistband over waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points, and Waistband seam to the center back. Stitch. Flip Waistband up. Press seam. Repeat on both leg openings. OPTIONAL: From the right side, topstitch around the waist, and both legs with a twin needle, coverstitch or stretch stitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
- ENCLOSED ELASTIC OPTION – Place elastic onto inside of leg opening, matching the elastic to edge. Starting at the Front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam. Pin the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match. Stitch. Fold the leg opening over to inside. Topstitch. Repeat for other leg. Overlap ends of waist elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and waist. Place elastic inside Underwear at waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and raw edge of the elastic to the stitched waist edge. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin. Topstitch. Fold waist opening over to inside and topstitch. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch –Topstitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Top stitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm
0.1OPTIONAL Power Mesh
You can add OPTIONAL Power Mesh to any of the options except for the Picot Elastic finish. We do not recommend adding it to this option as you will need to line it, and this will be too heavy for the Picot Elastic. If you are adding OPTIONAL Power Mesh to the Front, you will need to follow the Lined OPTION.
Adding power mesh will give added support to the Front.
0.2Lay the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the Front Power Mesh on top. Pin all sides.
0.3Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – You will now treat this as one Main Front piece.
1 . Gusset OPTION1.0If you are lining your underwear skip to step 2. The gusset cannot be added to the lined version. It can be added to all rise and elastic and band finish options.
1.1OPTIONAL: Serge or stitch the front raw edge of the Gusset.
NOTE – If you are serging do not remove any seam allowance.
NOTE – The Front edge is the narrower of the two edges.
1.2Layer the Gusset Lining, Main Back and Main Front in the following order: Gusset Lining right side up, Main Back right side up, Main Front piece wrong side up. Match the bottom edges. Pin all three layers together.
NOTE – The Back is now sandwiched between the Gusset and the Front.
1.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.4Open the Underwear with the Gusset laid flat against the Main Front, wrong sides together. Press the seam allowance flat.
1.5Pin the Gusset to the Front at the side seams.
1.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.7OPTIONAL: Stitch the front of the Gusset to the Main Front using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Skip to step 3.
2 . Lined OPTION2.0If you have added the Gusset, skip to step 3. Any of the rise and elastic or band options can be lined, except for the Picot Elastic option. We do not recommend lining this option as it will be too heavy for the Picot Elastic – skip to step 3 for this option.
2.1Lay the Main Back right side facing up. Place the Main Front on top right side facing down, matching the bottom edges. Pin.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Open the Underwear flat, right sides facing up. Press the seam allowance flat.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 with the Front and Back Lining.
3 . Side Seams3.0This step is the same for all options.
3.1Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together, at the side seam. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Press the seam allowance towards the Back piece.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other side seam.
If you are lining your Underwear follow step 3.6. If you are making an unlined version skip to step 5 for Picot Elastic, step 6 for Fold Over Elastic, step 7 for Bands or step 8 for Enclosed Elastic.
3.5LINING OPTION: Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the Front and Back Lining side seams.
4 . Lined OPTION: Attaching to Main4.0If you are sewing an unlined version skip to step 5 for the Picot Elastic option, or step 6 for the Fold Over Elastic option, or step 7 for the Bands option or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
4.1Place the Main Underwear right side facing out. Take the Underwear Lining, wrong side facing out, and slide it inside the Main. Match up the side seams and pin together along the waist.
TIP – Mark the center of the Main and the Lining and match these when pinning.
4.2SERGER OPTION: Serge together without removing any seam allowance.
REGULAR MACHINE OPTION: Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you are sewing the enclosed elastic option, serge or zigzag stitch the waist raw edges of the Main and Lining.
4.3Match the raw edges of the leg openings and pin the Main and Lining together.
4.4Repeat step 4.2 to stitch the leg openings.
NOTE – This will now be treated as one piece.
5 . Picot Elastic OPTION5.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Picot Elastic, skip to step 6 for the Fold Over Elastic option, step 7 for the Bands option, or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
5.1Overlap the short ends of the leg elastic by ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
5.2Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the leg of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
5.3With the right sides together, pin the picot elastic to the raw edge of the leg opening, starting at the seam between the Gusset and the Back. Without stretching the elastic, continue pinning up the Gusset, along the Front until you reach the side seam. Do not stretch along the Front of the Underwear.
Keep pinning the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match.
NOTE – The plain, straight edge of the elastic will be matched up with the raw edge of the Underwear.
5.4Stitch the elastic to the Underwear.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
5.5Turn the elastic toward the wrong side of the Underwear and pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
5.6Topstitch the leg opening.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
5.7Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the other leg opening.
5.8Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.2 to stitch the waistband elastic into a circle.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably.
5.9Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic.
5.10Find and mark the quarter points of the waist of the Underwear.
5.11Place the elastic over the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
NOTE – The straight edge of the elastic matches the raw edge of the Underwear.
5.12Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.6 to attach the elastic to the waist.
5.13OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
6 . Fold Over Elastic OPTION6.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Fold Over Elastic skip to step 7 for the Bands option, or step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
NOTE – Do not use a serger for these steps. Follow below on a regular sewing machine.
6.1Overlap the short ends of the waist fold over elastic ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
6.2Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
6.3Mark the quarter points of the fold over elastic, and the waist of the Underwear.
6.4On the wrong side of the Underwear, match the quarter points of the fold over elastic to the quarter points of the Underwear. Pin the raw edge of the Underwear to the center line on the bottom half of the wrong side of the fold over elastic. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
NOTE – Fold over elastic has a central line which makes it easier to fold it in half.
6.5Using a zig zag stitch, stitch the elastic to the waist.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
6.6Turn the top edge above the central line of the fold over elastic, over to the right side of the Underwear. Pin.
6.7Stitch along the bottom edge of the fold over elastic with zig zag stitches.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
TIP – If the elastic appears to be stretched out, gently press the Underwear using steam. This will help the elastic return back to its original shape.
6.8Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 to attach the elastic to both leg openings.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
7 . Bands OPTION7.0If you aren’t finishing the Underwear with Bands, skip to step 8 for the Enclosed Elastic option.
7.1Fold the Waistband in half, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open if you are using a stretch stitch. Press the seam allowance to the side if you have serged.
TIP – Using a stretch stitch and pressing the seam open will allow the Waistband to lay flat.
7.3Fold the Waistband in half, length wise, wrong sides together. Mark the quarter points of the raw edge of the Waistband and Underwear waist.
7.4Lay the Underwear right sides facing up. Place the Waistband over the waist edge, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points, and the Waistband seam to the center back. Pin.
7.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Only stretch the Waistband, not the Underwear.
7.6Flip the Waistband up. Press the seam allowance down, towards the Underwear.
7.7Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.7 with the Leg Bands on both leg openings, matching the seams of the Leg Bands to the side seams of the Underwear.
7.8OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the waist and legs with a twin needle, coverstitch or stretch stitch.
NOTE – If using a zig zag stitch as the stretch stitch, a zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
8 . Enclosed Elastic OPTION8.1Place the elastic onto the right side of the Lining leg opening if lined or wrong side of leg opening if unlined, matching the elastic to the stitched edge. Starting at the Front, without stretching the elastic, pin it between the side seam and the Front and Back seam.
Pin the elastic along the Back, stretching it slightly to match. Overlap the elastic by ½ inch.
TIP – Stretch and relax the elastic a couple times before pinning.
8.2Stitch the elastic to the Underwear with a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.3Fold the leg opening over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce to bulk.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
8.4Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.5Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 for the other leg opening.
8.6Overlap the short ends of the waist elastic ½ inch to form a circle and pin.
8.7Stitch together using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
FIT CHECK – Try the elastic around the waist of your model. Check that it will fit comfortably. The type of elastic you use may mean you need to adjust the lengths. Make adjustments as needed.
8.8Mark the quarter points of the elastic and the waist edge of the Underwear.
8.9Place the elastic inside the Underwear at the waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and the raw edge of the elastic to the stitched waist edge. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin.
8.10Stitch the elastic to the Underwear with a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
8.11Fold the waist opening over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
8.12Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2.0mm is recommended.
OPTIONAL – Add a small ribbon bow to the center front waistband of the Underwear. The bow can be attached with fabric glue or by hand stitching it.
Your Underwear is now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Basic Underwear is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbasicunderwear.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBasic Underwear
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Meet your everyday underwear; a super simple sew with a great fit that can be lined or unlined. You can add optional power mesh to the lined version for added tummy support. There are three rises to choose from – low, mid, or high and four finishing options – picot, fold over or enclosed elastic, or bands. Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy underwear.
SizingSize Range
Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
1
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
2
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
3
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
4
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
5
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
6
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
7
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
8
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
9
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
10
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
6C
44.0
111.8
36.0
94.1
48.0
121.9
7C
47.0
119.4
39.0
99.0
51.0
129.5
8C
50.0
127.0
43.0
109.2
54.0
137.2
9C
53.0
134.6
47.0
119.4
57.5
146.1
10C
56.0
142.2
51.0
129.5
61.0
154.9
11C
60.0
152.4
55.0
139.7
64.5
163.8
12C
64.0
162.6
59.0
149.9
68.0
172.7
13C
68.0
172.7
63.0
160.0
72.0
182.9
14C
72.0
182.9
67.0
170.2
76.0
193.0
15C
76.0
193.0
71.0
180.3
80.0
203.2
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Low waist
Mid waist
High Waist
Hip
Low rise
Mid rise
High rise
Front
Back
Front
Back
Front
Back
1
25.0
22.7
20.3
26.5
9.7
8.1
11.7
10.1
13.7
12.1
2
26.5
24.0
21.5
27.3
10.1
8.5
12.1
10.5
14.1
12.5
3
27.7
25.1
22.5
29.0
10.5
9.0
12.5
11.0
14.5
13.0
4
29.3
26.7
24.1
30.5
11.0
9.3
13.0
11.3
15.0
13.3
5
31.0
28.3
26.5
32.0
11.3
9.7
13.3
11.7
15.3
13.7
6
33.3
30.7
28.3
34.5
11.7
10.1
13.7
12.1
15.7
14.1
7
35.5
33.1
30.7
36.3
12.1
10.5
14.1
12.5
16.1
14.5
8
38.5
36.0
34.5
38.7
12.5
11.0
14.5
13.0
16.5
15.0
9
40.7
38.7
37.1
41.0
13.0
11.3
15.0
13.3
17.0
15.3
10
43.3
41.7
40.1
43.3
13.3
11.6
15.3
13.6
17.3
15.6
Low waist
Mid waist
High Waist
Hip
Low rise
Mid rise
High rise
Front
Back
Front
Back
Front
Back
6C
36.1
32.9
28.7
38.5
11.7
9.7
13.7
11.7
16.2
14.2
7C
38.5
35.5
31.3
40.9
12.1
10.2
14.1
12.2
16.6
14.7
8C
41.3
38.5
34.5
43.1
12.5
10.7
14.5
12.7
17.0
15.2
9C
43.7
40.7
37.7
45.7
13.0
11.2
15.0
13.2
17.4
15.7
10C
46.9
43.9
40.7
48.5
13.4
12.0
15.5
14.0
18.0
16.5
11C
50.5
47.1
43.9
51.3
14.0
12.7
16.0
14.7
18.4
17.2
12C
53.7
50.5
47.5
54.1
14.4
13.4
16.5
15.4
19.0
18.0
13C
56.3
53.9
50.7
57.5
15.0
14.1
17.0
16.0
19.4
18.6
14C
59.7
56.7
54.1
60.5
15.4
14.7
17.5
16.7
20.0
19.3
15C
62.9
59.7
57.1
63.7
16.0
15.4
18.0
17.4
20.4
20.0
Materials and Tools- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, or cotton lycra (CL).
- Both 4-way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2-way stretch fabrics will work. For 2-way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so that the stretch runs at right angles to the grainline.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your underwear maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Bands
1 – 8
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
9 – 10
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
Main
OPTIONAL Lining
OPTIONAL Power Mesh
OPTIONAL Bands
6C – 8C
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.25
9C – 15C
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Elastic OPTIONS ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes:
- Picot Elastic
- OR Enclosed Elastic – use Knitted or Lingerie Elastic
- OR Fold Over Elastic
- OPTIONAL Decorative bow – 1x small lingerie satin bow
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
