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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Women's Bralette Tank Top
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This bralette tank top is a pullover style top with a racer back, scoop neckline and double lining for comfort and support. It is very versatile with two length options, optional band or exposed elastic, and an optional back pocket.
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- +Preparation
- Overall fit – The Bralette Tank Top is designed to have negative ease. This means it is smaller than the body and the fabric will stretch as you are wearing it. If you fall towards the lower end of your size range, you may find you need to take the fabric in slightly to have sufficient negative ease for comfort. We recommend trying a muslin (see below) to make sure the fit is exactly how you are wanting.
- Measure – Please measure and use the size you fall into on the size chart. Sizing varies by designer, brand, and country so please be aware it may or may not be the size you are used to.
- Selecting your Size – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armscye, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed (draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
- Front gathers – The gathered front tank option gathers across the tummy. You will find the gathers sit flat across the stomach. They are not designed to be skin tight and will skim the body. The fit is designed to look relaxed and give stomach coverage. If you wish to have a tighter fit around the tummy, you will need to take the side seams in between the gathered area. To do this, make a muslin first, then try the garment on inside out, pinning down the side seams where you’d like to adjust. Then remove the garment, trim as needed, re-gather and attach.
- Bust – The pattern has been drafted for a sewing C cup bust. We tested the pattern with up to a G cup and found that fabric with at least a 30% stretch, fit well. B cups fit well but A found it a little loose. That said, fit can depend on body shape as well as cup size and fabric type. So, for best fit, complete a muslin and adjust accordingly.
- Length – The pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. The tank tops are designed to be quite long, finishing just below the hip bone.
- If you wish to lengthen or shorten the bralette, you will need to adjust the front and back bralette pieces. For the most accurate height adjustment, adjust in two places, 1 inch below the armhole to give more room in the bust area, and at the hem to give more length.
- For minor length adjustments, you may find no adjustment is needed, that you can simply shorten or length at the hem as preferred.
- Again, for best fit, we recommend completing a muslin to check for your personal body shape.
- Muslin – For the best fit, make a muslin (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) using the front and back pieces to check the fit and see if you wish to make any adjustments for your body.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- You will need a stretch/knit fabric for the Bralette. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining.
- Fabric needs to have at least 30% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This ensures your bralette maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- You can use light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, Liverpool, double brushed polyester, modal etc.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Front and Back Lining.
- ⅜ inch wide clear Elastic – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This is added to the neckline, armscye, optional underbust seam and optional waist seam.
- OPTIONAL 1-inch wide Under Bust Enclosed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Under Bust Exposed 1-3 inch wide Plush backed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewBralette Tank Top
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The pullover style Bralette with a racerback and scoop neckline is created for comfort and ease. The side seams fall to the front, giving additional bust support, while the shoulder seams roll to the back, preventing them from digging into your shoulders. The Bralette is double-lined, enclosing the seams, and for additional support and coverage. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic or add the gathered front or pleated skirt to create a tank top version. Add the optional back pocket to store your phone, keys or other small items while you work out or go about your day.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bralette
Gathered tank top
Pleated tank top
Chest
Hem circumference
Length incl. band
Waist
Hem circumference
Length
Waist
Hem circumference
Length
XXS
29.0
24.0
15.5
24.0
29.5
11.0
24.0
29.5
12.0
XS
30.6
25.5
15.7
25.5
31.3
11.0
25.5
31.3
12.0
S
32.5
27.0
16.0
27.0
32.0
11.0
27.0
32.0
12.0
M
34.5
28.5
16.2
28.5
34.7
11.0
28.5
34.7
12.0
L
36.2
30.0
16.3
30.0
36.5
11.0
30.0
36.5
12.0
XL
39.0
32.5
17.0
32.5
39.1
11.0
32.5
39.1
12.0
XXL
42.0
34.7
17.5
34.7
41.7
11.0
34.7
41.7
12.0
3XL
44.6
37.0
18.2
37.0
44.3
11.0
37.0
44.3
12.0
4XL
47.5
39.3
18.6
39.3
47.0
11.0
39.3
47.0
12.0
5XL
50.1
41.6
19.2
41.6
49.5
11.0
41.6
49.5
12.0
Fitting NotesThis Bralette Tank Top is not intended to be worn without a bra. If you are using it as a workout top we recommend wearing a sports bra underneath.
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bralette
Main & lining same fabric
Main &lining different fabric
(bralette with underband)Main & lining different fabric
(bralette with separate underband)Main with underband
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
Main without underband
underband Only
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
XXS – M
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
L – 3XL
1.25
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.5
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
Tank top options
Pleated skirt
Gathered skirt
XXS – M
0.5
1
L – 3XL
0.5
1
4XL – 5XL
0.5
1
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Front bralette OPTIONAL
Back bralette
without pocketOPTIONAL
Back bralette
with pocketOPTIONAL
Pleated skirtOPTIONAL
Gathered
skirtOPTIONAL
BandXXS – L 7-8, 15 9, 16-17 12-14, 20-23 10-11, 18-19 2-6 20-23 XL – XXL 7-8, 15 9, 16-17 12-14, 20-23 10-11, 18-19 2-6, 10-14 20-23 3XL-5XL 7-8, 15-16 9, 16-17 12-14, 20-23 10-11, 18-19 2-6, 10-14 19-23 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Front bralette OPTIONAL
Back bralette
without pocketOPTIONAL
Back bralette
with pocketOPTIONAL
Pleated skirtOPTIONAL
Gathered
skirtOPTIONAL
BandXXS – M 7-8, 15 9, 16-17 12-15, 20-22 10-11, 18-19 2-6 19-20 L – XL 7-8, 15 9, 16-17 12-15, 20-22 10-11, 18-19 2-6 18-20 XXL 7-8, 15 9, 16-17 12-15, 20-22 10-11, 18-19 2-6, 10-14 18-20 3XL-5XL 7-8, 15-16 9, 16-17 12-15, 20-22 10-11, 18-19 2-6, 10-14 18-20 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
Band (Cut 1)
Under Bust
(Enclosed/Exposed)
Elastic – (Cut 1)OPTIONAL Pocket
Pocket
(Cut 1)Pocket Binding
(Cut 1)Bottom Center Back (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
3.0
24.4
1.0
23.0
4.4
7.4
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
XS
3.0
26.0
1.0
24.7
4.4
7.5
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
S
3.0
28.0
1.0
26.4
4.4
7.7
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
M
3.0
29.1
1.0
28.1
4.4
8.0
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
L
3.0
30.5
1.0
30.0
4.4
8.1
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
XL
3.0
33.1
1.0
31.5
4.4
8.3
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
XXL
3.0
35.3
1.0
34.0
4.4
8.5
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
3XL
3.0
37.6
1.0
36.6
4.4
8.7
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
4XL
3.0
40.0
1.0
39.1
4.4
9.0
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
5XL
3.0
42.2
1.0
41.7
4.4
9.1
6.0
2.0
4.4
3.0
Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:
Option
Description
What pattern pieces you’ll need
Bralette (select one)
Bralette without back pocket
This bodice is fully lined with an optional band
Front:
● Main – Cut 1 on fold
● Lining – Cut 1 on fold
● OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 1 on fold
Back:
● Main – Cut 1 on fold
● Lining – Cut 1 on fold
● OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 1 on fold
● OPTIONAL Band – Cut 1 on fold
Bralette with back pocket
This bodice is fully lined with an optional band and back pocket
Front:
● Main – Cut 1 on fold
● Lining – Cut 1 on fold
● OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 1 on fold
Back (without pocket):
● Lining – Cut 1 on fold
● OPTIONAL Power Mesh – Cut 1 on fold
● Side Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
● Top Center Back – Cut 1
● Bottom Center Back – Cut 1
● Pocket – Cut 1
● Pocket Binding – Cut 1
● OPTIONAL Band – Cut 1 on fold
Tank Top (select one)
Gathered Skirt
A front gathered tank top
● Front Skirt – Cut 1 on fold
● Back Skirt – Cut 1 on fold
Pleated Skirt
A tank top with front and back pleats.
● Pleated Skirt Tank – Cut 2 on fold
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. The available options are:
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL POWER MESH – Baste the Front Power Mesh to the Front Lining. Repeat for the Back.
- OPTIONAL POCKET – Press Pocket Binding in half, open, fold long edges to center crease, press. Match right side of the Pocket Binding to wrong side of Pocket along the top edge. Stitch and press up. Re-fold the Pocket Binding over the top edge of the Pocket, topstitch, trim extra binding off ends. Match raw edges of the Pocket to the raw edges of the Top Center Back, baste. Stitch Bottom Center Back onto Pocket. Place Side Back and Center Back right sides together, stitch, press then topstitch. Repeat for other Side Back seam.
- SHOULDERS – With the right sides together match the shoulders, stitch. Repeat for the Lining.
- NECKLINE – Lay the Main and the Lining Bralette right sides together matching the necklines, stitch. Measure the neckline, add ⅜ inch to the measurement then cut elastic. Form a loop, overlap ends and zigzag to secure. Mark quarter points on elastic and neckline, stitch. Understitch elastic to the Lining, press.
- ARMSCYE – Use burrito roll method to stitch each main and lining armscye together. Cut a piece of elastic the same length of the armscye. Align elastic on the main fabric side of the seam, stitch. Turn right side out, press.
- BRALETTE SIDE SEAM – Open the Front main and lining fabric and lay flat with the right sides up, repeat with the Back Main fabric and Lining fabric and align with the Front fabric along the side seams, stitch, press. Repeat with the other side seam, fold the fabric down matching the wrong sides together.
- OPTIONAL UNDER BUST ENCLOSED ELASTIC – Match right sides short edges of the Band, serge. Fold Band in half wrong sides together, quarter the Band and under bust edge of bralette, match quarter points. Stitch and leave a 2 to 3 inch gap, insert elastic into Band, overlap elastic and zigzag over edges. Pull back into the Band, close the gap, topstitch.
- OPTIONAL UNDER BUST KNIT BAND – Stitch short edges of the Band, right sides together. Fold Band in half wrong sides together, match quarter points of Band and under bust edge of bralette, stitch. OPTIONAL elastic: measure bottom edge of bralette, add ⅜ inch, cut elastic. Stitch elastic into loop, mark quarter points of elastic and bralette under bust seam. Stitch, press, topstitch.
- OPTIONAL UNDER BUST EXPOSED ELASTIC – Baste Bralette Main and Lining at the under bust edge, stitch elastic into a loop, quarter Band and under bust edge of bralette, match quarter points, pin, stitch, turn elastic down, topstitch.
- OPTIONAL GATHERED SKIRT – Stitch two rows of gathering stitches on the side edge of the Skirt Front, repeat on other side. Match Skirt Front to Skirt Back. Gather Skirt Front, match to the Skirt Back, stitch, press. Repeat on the other side seam. Skip to step 11.
- OPTIONAL PLEATED SKIRT – On Skirt Front, match pleat markings, pin. Center pleat over pin, press, baste. Repeat for other pleat on Skirt Front and Back pleats. Align Skirt Front and Skirt Back alongside seam, stitch, press. Repeat on other side seam. Skip to step 11.
- ATTACH SKIRT – Mark quarter points on bottom of Bralette and top of Skirt. Match the quarter points, stitch.
- OPTIONAL WAIST ELASTIC – Measure waist seam, add ½ inch, cut elastic. Stitch elastic into a loop, mark quarter points of elastic and waist seam. Match the quarter points and pin the elastic to the Bralette side of the seam allowance, stitch, press, topstitch.
- HEM – Press hem ½ inch to wrong side, topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1NOTE – For those who have a coverstitch machine and would like to use this for topstitching, we’ve included a little video to show you how. Watch the video.
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins.
0.3OPTIONAL Power Mesh
Lay the Front Power Mesh onto the Front Lining, wrong sides together. Pin together along all outer edges.
Baste the two pieces together, using ¼ inch seam allowance. Treat them as one piece.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
Repeat for the Back Lining and Back Power Mesh pieces.
1 . OPTIONAL Pocket1.0If you aren’t adding the Pocket, skip to step 2.
1.1Press the Pocket Binding in half, wrong sides together, matching the long edges.
1.2Open the Pocket Binding and fold the long edges in toward the center crease, press.
Fold in half again and press.
1.3Place the right side of Pocket Binding to the wrong side of the Pocket, along the top edge of the Pocket.
1.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.5Press the Pocket Binding up.
1.6Fold the Pocket Binding over the top edge of the Pocket and tuck the fold pressed in step 1.1 and 1.2 under, so all the raw edges are inside.
1.7Topstitch along the edge of the Pocket Binding.
1.8Trim off any excess Pocket Binding.
1.9With the right sides facing up, match the raw edges of the Pocket with the raw edges of the Top Center Back and baste together, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
1.10Place the Bottom Center Back piece onto the bottom of the Pocket, right sides together. Pin.
1.11Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance away from the pocket.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
1.12With the right sides together, align one Side Back to the Center Back.
1.13Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.14Press the seam toward the outside.
1.15OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance.
1.16Repeat steps 1.12 to 1.15 for the second Side Back seam.
2 . Shoulders2.0All steps from this point are the same with or without the optional back Pocket.
2.1With the right sides together, pin the main Front to the main Back at the shoulders.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the other shoulder seam.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the Front and Back lining.
3 . Neckline3.1Place the main and lining pieces right sides together, matching the neckline. Pin.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.3Measure the sewn neckline edge, then add ⅜ inch. Cut a piece of elastic this length.
NOTE – Using a cut elastic length works alright, but with slight changes during cutting and sewing, plus any personal fit adjustments, this is the most accurate method to get the best elastic fit.
TIP – If you are using clear elastic, pre stretch it a few times.
3.4Form a loop with the elastic and overlap the ends by ½ inch.
3.5Zigzag over the ends to secure the elastic into a loop.
3.6Find and mark the quarter points on the elastic.
3.7Find and mark the quarter points on the neckline.
3.8Match the quarter points and pin the elastic to the wrong side of the main neckline.
3.9Stitch or serge in place.
NOTE – Stretch elastic as needed while sewing but do not stretch the fabric.
TIP – If attaching elastic with a serger, be sure to disengage the knife.
3.10Understitch the elastic and seam allowance to the lining, using a zigzag stitch.
TIP – If you haven’t done this before, this just means stitching the seam allowance to the lining approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the lining and main pieces join. The seam allowance will help hold the lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.
3.11Press the neckline edge.
TIP – If the fabric has stretched out while adding the elastic, use extra steam when pressing to help the fabric and elastic relax back into shape. Be sure to test the iron heat settings on a scrap before starting.
4 . Armscye4.0In this step, we will be using the burrito roll method. You will be stitching the armscye right sides together, then pulling the garment through on itself in the direction of the arrows. The bodice will then be right sides out and finished along the armscyes.
4.1Lay the bralette flat with the main facing up. Match the main and lining together.
4.2Starting from one side, begin rolling tightly toward the opposite side.
4.3Once the bralette is rolled to the opposite neckline edge, open both the main Front and Back away from the lining.
4.4Carefully pull the lining underneath the rolled section, so the roll is centered over the neck seam. Then match the lining and outer right sides together, with the rolled section in between the layers.
4.5Pin the main and lining, right sides together, along the entire edge of the armscye.
NOTE – Check you have not pinned the rolled up section.
4.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Make sure you have not stitched the rolled up section in the seam.
4.7Measure the length of the armscye, then cut a piece of elastic the same length.
4.8Place the elastic on the main fabric seam allowance. Start stitching the elastic within the seam allowance, holding the elastic tight, with a slight stretch.
Stitch along the armscye edge.
4.9Pull the rolled-up bralette out and lay flat again. Press the armscye seam.
To do this, put your arm into the garment from the front waistline, up through the shoulder seam and into the back of the garment. Grab the back waistline and pull it through to the front. Repeat to turn through the other back side.
Depending on the size you are doing, you may find it easier to poke your back lining pieces through the shoulder area first, then pull it through from the front.
4.10Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 for the other armscye.
5 . Bralette Side Seam5.1Separate the Front main and lining at the side seam, right sides facing up.
5.2Repeat for the same side seam on the Back.
5.3Match the main Front and Back together and the lining front and back together. Pin.
5.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam.
5.5Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 for the other side seam.
5.6Fold the bottom raw edge of the main fabric down to match the bottom raw edge of the lining fabric.
Press the seam.
6 . OPTIONAL Under Bust Enclosed Elastic6.0If you aren’t finishing the Bralette with the Under Bust Enclosed Elastic, skip to step 7 for the Knit Band option or step 8 for the Exposed Elastic option.
If adding a Skirt, skip to step 9 for the Gathered Skirt option or step 10 for the Pleated Skirt option.
6.1Fold the Band in half, right sides together, matching short ends. Pin.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.3Fold Band in half, wrong sides together, matching long raw edges.
6.4Find and mark the quarter points of the raw edge of the Band and the under bust edge of the Bra.
6.5Place the Band over the Bralette, right sides together, matching the quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins in between quarter points as needed before sewing.
NOTE – Take note of the seam on the Band when placing it over the Bralette. Match this to the center back or to the side, as you prefer.
6.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-3 inch gap to insert the elastic.
6.7Insert the elastic into the Band. Slide it all the way through and around so both ends meet outside of the band.
TIP – Pin one end of your elastic to the Bralette. This stops it slipping into the Band as you feed the elastic through. Attach a safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Then feed the elastic through the little opening you left and all the way around the Band.
NOTE – Make sure there are no twists in the elastic.
6.8Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic, securing them in place.
6.9Pull the elastic all the way into the Band.
FIT CHECK – Try the Bralette on and check the fit of the elastic before stitching the gap closed in the next step.
6.10Serge or stitch the gap closed, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.11OPTIONAL – Topstitch the top edge of band.
6.12OPTIONAL – Topstitch down the band at the center back. This will prevent the elastic from twisting inside the band.
Your Bralette is now finished!
7 . OPTIONAL Under Bust Knit Band7.0If you aren’t finishing the Bralette with the Under Bust Knit Band, skip to step 8 for the Exposed Elastic option.
If adding a Skirt, skip to step 9 for the Gathered Skirt option or step 10 for the Pleated Skirt option.
7.1Fold the Band in half, right sides together, matching short ends. Pin.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.3Fold Band in half, wrong sides together, matching long raw edges.
7.4Find and mark the quarter points of the raw edge of the Band and the under bust edge of the Bralette.
7.5Place the Band over the Bralette, right sides together, matching the quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins in between quarter points as needed before sewing.
7.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – You can add ⅜ inch wide elastic to this seam for additional support if desired. Continue to step 7.7 to add elastic or skip to step 7.14.
7.7Measure the Bra seam edge, then add ½ inch. Cut a piece of elastic this length.
NOTE – A standard elastic cut length will work, however, with slight changes during cutting and sewing, plus any personal fit adjustments, this is the most accurate method to get the best elastic fit.
7.8Form a loop with the elastic and overlap the ends by ½ inch.
7.9Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic, securing them in place.
7.10Find and mark the quarter points on the elastic.
7.11Find and mark the quarter points on the under bust seam.
7.12Place the elastic onto the seam allowance, matching quarter points. Pin.
7.13Stitch or serge in place.
NOTE – Stretch elastic as needed while sewing but do not stretch the fabric.
TIP – If attaching the elastic with a serger, be sure to disengage the knife.
Press the seam towards the Bralette.
7.14OPTIONAL – Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Your Bralette is now finished!
8 . OPTIONAL – Under Bust Exposed Elastic8.0If you have sewn the Enclosed Elastic or Knit Band option skip to step 9 for the Gathered Skirt option or step 10 for the Pleated Skirt option. If you are not adding a Skirt to the Bralette, skip to step 12 for optional waist elastic or step 13 to hem.
8.1Baste the main and Bralette lining together along the under bust edge.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
8.2Form a loop with the elastic and overlap the ends by ½ inch.
8.3Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic, securing them in place.
8.4Find and mark the quarter points on the elastic and the quarter points of the under bust edge.
8.5With the right sides together, match the quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins in between the quarter points as needed before sewing.
8.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.7Flip the elastic down and topstitch along the top edge at ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Your Bralette is now finished!
9 . OPTIONAL Gathered Skirt9.0If you are adding the optional Pleated Skirt, skip to step 10.
9.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches from the waistline to the hem along one side seam of the Front Skirt.
Stitch a row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads.
9.2Repeat for the other side seam.
9.3Place the Front and Back Skirts right sides together, matching the top and bottom raw edges together at the side seam.
TIP – For some sizes, the back piece is easy to place upside down. Make sure to check you have it the correct way up.
9.4Gather the Front to match the Back.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Front Skirt.
Gather all the way until the Front Skirt is the same length as the Back Skirt.
Gently spread out the Front Skirt so that it is evenly gathered.
9.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Remove any visible basting stitches.
9.6Press the seam toward the back.
9.7Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.6 for the second side seam.
Skip to step 11 to attach to the Bralette.
10 . OPTIONAL Pleated Skirt10.0If you have sewn the optional Gathered Skirt, skip to step 11.
10.1On the Skirt Front, place the right sides together matching the two pleat markings.
Put a pin straight down from the raw edge into the pleat marking.
10.2Center the pleat over the pin from step 10.1, press flat from the wrong side.
10.3Baste the pleat in place along the top edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
10.4Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the second front pleat and both back pleats.
10.5Place the Front and Back Skirts, right sides together, at the side seam. Pin.
10.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the side se7am toward the back.
10.7Repeat steps 10.5 to 10.6 for the second side seam.
Continue to step 11 to attach to the Bralette.
11 . Attach Skirt11.0This step is the same for both the Gathered and the Pleated Skirt.
11.1Find and mark the quarter points on the under bust edge of the Bralette.
NOTE – The side seam is not at the quarter point as it is shaped from the armscye towards the front. You will need to measure the quarter points.
11.2Find and mark the quarter points on the top edge of the Skirt.
11.3Slide the Bralette inside the Skirt, right sides together, matching the quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins as needed.
11.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
12 . OPTIONAL Waist Elastic12.0Adding ⅜ inch elastic to the waist seam can provide additional support if desired.
If you do not wish to add elastic to the waist seam, skip to step 13 to finish the Tank Top.
12.1Measure the waist seam edge, then add ½ inch. Cut a piece of elastic this length.
NOTE – A standard elastic length works alright, but with slight changes during cutting and sewing, plus any personal fit adjustments, this is the most accurate method to get the best elastic fit.
12.2Form a loop with the elastic and overlap the ends by ½ inch.
12.3Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic, securing them in place.
12.4Find and mark the quarter points on the elastic.
12.5Find and mark the quarter points on the waist seam.
12.6Slide the elastic onto the waist seam, matching quarter points. Pin.
12.7Stitch or serge in place.
NOTE – Stretch elastic as needed while sewing but do not stretch fabric.
TIP – If attaching elastic with a serger, be sure to disengage the knife.
Press the seam up toward the Bralette.
12.8OPTIONAL – Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
13 . Hem13.1Press the hem up ½ inch towards the wrong side.
13.2Using a stretch stitch, double needle, or coverstitch machine, topstitch close to the raw edge of the hem.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Bralette Tank is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpworkoutgear
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBralette Tank Top
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The pullover style Bralette with a racerback and scoop neckline is created for comfort and ease. The side seams fall to the front, giving additional bust support, while the shoulder seams roll to the back, preventing them from digging into your shoulders. The Bralette is double-lined, enclosing the seams, and for additional support and coverage. It can be worn as a crop top with an optional band or exposed elastic or add the gathered front or pleated skirt to create a tank top version. Add the optional back pocket to store your phone, keys or other small items while you work out or go about your day.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Bralette
Gathered tank top
Pleated tank top
Chest
Hem circumference
Length incl. band
Waist
Hem circumference
Length
Waist
Hem circumference
Length
XXS
29.0
24.0
15.5
24.0
29.5
11.0
24.0
29.5
12.0
XS
30.6
25.5
15.7
25.5
31.3
11.0
25.5
31.3
12.0
S
32.5
27.0
16.0
27.0
32.0
11.0
27.0
32.0
12.0
M
34.5
28.5
16.2
28.5
34.7
11.0
28.5
34.7
12.0
L
36.2
30.0
16.3
30.0
36.5
11.0
30.0
36.5
12.0
XL
39.0
32.5
17.0
32.5
39.1
11.0
32.5
39.1
12.0
XXL
42.0
34.7
17.5
34.7
41.7
11.0
34.7
41.7
12.0
3XL
44.6
37.0
18.2
37.0
44.3
11.0
37.0
44.3
12.0
4XL
47.5
39.3
18.6
39.3
47.0
11.0
39.3
47.0
12.0
5XL
50.1
41.6
19.2
41.6
49.5
11.0
41.6
49.5
12.0
Materials and Tools- You will need a stretch/knit fabric for the Bralette. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. The same fabric can be used for the main and lining.
- Fabric needs to have at least 30% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This ensures your bralette maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- You can use light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, Liverpool, double brushed polyester, modal etc.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Front and Back Lining.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bralette
Main & lining same fabric
Main &lining different fabric
(bralette with underband)Main & lining different fabric
(bralette with separate underband)Main with underband
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
Main without underband
underband Only
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
XXS – M
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
L – 3XL
1.25
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
4XL – 5XL
1.5
1
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.75
Tank top options
Pleated skirt
Gathered skirt
XXS – M
0.5
1
L – 3XL
0.5
1
4XL – 5XL
0.5
1
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch wide clear Elastic – approximately 5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. This is added to the neckline, armscye, optional underbust seam and optional waist seam.
- OPTIONAL 1-inch wide Under Bust Enclosed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Under Bust Exposed 1-3 inch wide Plush backed Elastic – approximately 1.2 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
