Women's Brielle Blouse Top

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch

Pattern Markings

PLEATS – Lay your Front pieces flat and using chalk or an erasable fabric marker, mark from the pattern where the Pleats will go.

KEYHOLE

• If you are using bias tape to finish keyhole, mark the keyhole directly onto your Back piece.  
• If you are using the Facing option without interfacing, mark the keyhole from pattern piece onto right side of Back piece and wrong side of Facing piece. 
• If you are using the Facing option with interfacing, add the interfacing as per manufacturer’s instructions, then mark the keyhole from pattern piece onto right side of Back piece and wrong side of Facing piece. 

SLEEVES – The Sleeve slit is the vertical line coming up from the Sleeve hem. Mark this on both Sleeves using tailors chalk or an erasable fabric marker.  There is a left Sleeve and a right Sleeve so please make sure you transfer this marking to the front side of each Sleeve.  

COLLAR – Transfer markings from Collar pattern to match with center back, shoulder seams and keyhole edges to one Collar piece.  

OPTIONAL Interfacing

Interfacing is optional but does provide more structure to the Facing, Collar, and Cuffs.  

If you are using sheer fabric, test on a scrap of fabric if you can see your interfacing through the fabric. With some sheer fabrics, it will be visible, so you’ll need to decide whether you prefer the structure, or not being able to see the interfacing.

If you are using the lightweight interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of your Facing and Cuff pieces, following manufacturer’s instructions.

OPTIONAL Bias Tape

Bias tape is required to finish the Sleeve slits, optionally to bind the keyhole in step 2, and optionally to finish the armhole in step 3.

If you have purchased ready-made bias tape, check it is 1 inch wide when completely unfolded. Then, skip to step 1.

If you made your own bias tape by cutting strips on the diagonal, we are going to fold and press as if we were making single fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). 

• Fold one bias strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press well.
• Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden.
• Open the central fold back out again.
• Press. 
• You now have ½ inch single folded bias tape. The raw edges should be folded into the middle.

If you get stuck, download our free bias tape tutorial and follow the instructions for ‘single fold bias tape’. 

NOTE – You can also use narrower bias tape. This will give a very professional finish; however, it can also be quite fiddly to attach. The very narrowest bias tape I would recommend would be ½ inch when unfolded (¼ inch when single folded).  

There are 5 pleats on each side of the Front. We need to fold and stitch each of these in place.

Starting with the first pleat on one side of the top, fold the pleat right sides together by bringing the two lines together. Pin then stitch part way down this line. 

Your stitching should start near the raw edge and only go ½ inch down the line. That way, when we finish the neckline, your stitching will be tucked up inside the Collar.

Repeat to stitch all the pleats in place.

Press the folded part of each pleat outwards towards the shoulder seam.

TIP – As you’ll be starting your stitching close to the raw edge, some machines can ‘eat’ the fabric (pull it down into the feed dog) as you start stitching. To avoid this, keep your threads long and hold them taut out the back of the sewing machine before you start stitching. Using a fresh needle and sewing the first few stitches slowly using your hand wheel rather than a foot pedal can also help.

NOTE – If you prefer, you can baste (use a long removable stitch) the full length of the pleat markings and then remove the stitching at step 9.3 after attaching the Collar.

There are two ways that we can finish the keyhole opening: with bias tape or with Facing.

BIAS TAPE FINISH – Follow steps 2.1 through 2.6. Then skip to step 3.1.

FACING FINISH – Skip to step 2.7.

BIAS TAPE – Transfer the markings to your fabric and cut out, creating the keyhole. 

Staystitch around the keyhole opening with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Make a snip into the seam allowance at the center point. Cut right up to, but not through the stitching.

Open the slit, straightening it so it’s as horizontal as possible. 

Pin the bias tape to the slit, right sides together.

NOTE – They are not going to be perfectly aligned. The outer extremities will be flush to each other, but the center of the keyhole will be about ¼ inch lower than the placket strip.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, attach bias tape to the shirt being careful to not stitch over any folds, making sure to get a clean straight line.

NOTE – You’ll just catch the center of the slit. It will be stitched very close to the edge.

TIP – If you are having trouble getting a clean stitch line without folds in your fabric, start at the center and stitch to one side.  Then again, stitch from center to the opposite side.  

Press the bias tape up, towards the inside of the keyhole.

Fold bias tape over the seam allowance and topstitch it with a ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as possible. 

Press.

Fold the keyhole in half placing right sides together and sew a small diagonal line from the center point of the keyhole towards the neckline.

TIP – Make sure you only sew from the stitch line and away from the back to avoid creating a tuck on the right side of the Back.

FACING – Find the center of both the Back shirt and Facing pieces.

NOTE – If you have interfaced your Facing piece, the outside curve will not need finishing because the interfacing stops the fabric from fraying. If you have not interfaced the Facing, you can serge or use an overlock or zig zag stitch on your sewing machine around the outside to prevent fraying.

Place the Facing on the Back Piece, right sides together, matching center marks, and aligning the keyhole markings. Pin in place.

Stitch following the marking, using a ¼ inch seam allowance from the line.

Trim ⅛ inch from the stitching line, removing the center and creating the keyhole.

OPTIONAL – Snip up to, but not through, the stitching at the center of the keyhole. This helps the Facing turn and lay more smoothly in the following step.  If you snip through your stitches, you will end up with a hole.  

Turn Facing to the wrong side and press.

You can either topstitch or understitch the Facing. Both help prevent the Facing from peeking outside of the keyhole while wearing it. However, the finish is a little different. Topstitching will show on the outside of the garment but is easier. Understitching is a little trickier but is invisible on the outside of the garment.

Either topstitch the Facing in place using a ⅛ inch seam allowance around the folded edge of the Facing.

Alternatively, understitch seam allowance to Facing.  Open the Facing and Back piece as flat as you can and press the seam allowance towards the Facing. Stitch through just the Facing and the seam allowance only. Do not catch the blouse in your stitching. You are only stitching the seam allowance to the Facing.  Then turn the Facing wrong sides together with the garment and press.  Your stitching should hold the Facing to the seam allowance and not be visible from the outside of the garment.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, sew the shoulder seams right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the seam allowance (stitching then serging gives a stronger finish on the shoulders which are a high-stress area of the garment). Press seam allowance towards the back. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to be using French seams to hide the raw edges. Follow steps below.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front to the Back at the shoulder seams.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

NOTE – Some sizes the angle of the shoulder seam means the front shoulder will be longer than the back shoulder at the raw edge. If you align the seam at the stitch line (⅟₂ inch in from the edge) and center the front shoulder over the back shoulder, the points will hang over the edge and they will line up at the end of the French seam on step 3.3.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the other side.

NOTE – There is a left and right Sleeve, so the Sleeve slit marking will be on the opposite side for each one. The Sleeve slit will be towards the front of the Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, attach the Sleeve to the shirt using a ½ inch seam allowance, then serge the seam allowance. Press seam towards the blouse. Optionally, top stitch the seam allowance in place approximately ¼ inch from the armhole seam. Then, skip to step 5.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – In this step we will use bias tape to hide the raw edges.  Follow steps below.

With right sides together, pin the Sleeve to the shirt’s armhole and stitch with a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Start by pinning the center of Sleeve to the center of armhole, then pin each end of the Sleeve to the ends of the armhole. Ease the Sleeve onto the armhole, matching the raw edges. Pin it all in place.

Trim seam allowance by half.

Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape.

Align the fold on the right side of your bias tape with the seam on the wrong side of the Sleeve.

Pin the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the shoulder.

Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the armhole seam.

Fold your bias tape in half so it encloses the seam allowance. The raw edges will all be tucked inside. Pin.

Stitch in place close to the folded edge.

Press the bias tape towards the blouse.

If you haven’t yet, transfer the Sleeve slit marking from your Sleeve pattern piece to the wrong side of the Sleeve using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

NOTE – There is a left and right Sleeve, so the marking will be on the opposite side for each one. The Sleeve slit will be towards the front of the Sleeve.

Cut up your slit marking.

We are going to finish the edges of the slit using the same bias tape method that was an option for the keyhole. 

Open the slit, straightening it so it is as horizontal as possible. Pin the placket strip (or bias tape) to the slit, right sides together.

NOTE – They are not going to be perfectly aligned. The outer extremities will be flush to each other, but the center of the Sleeve slit will be about ¼ inch lower than the placket strip.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance (from the placket strip), attach the strip to the Sleeve slit. Be careful to not stitch over any folds, making sure to get a clean straight line. 

NOTE – You will just catch the center of the slit. It will be stitched very close to the edge.

Press the placket away from the Sleeve.

Fold the edge of the placket ¼ inch to the wrong side and give it a press.

NOTE – If you’re using bias tape, this step is unnecessary, as bias tape already comes with the folds.

Fold the placket over the seam allowance and topstitch it with a ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as possible. 

Press.

For a crisp finish, fold the placket in half with right sides together and sew a small diagonal line from the top of the placket down.

TIP – Make sure you only sew from the stitch line and away from the Sleeve to avoid creating a tuck on the right side of the Sleeves.

Press.

Baste the top end of the placket to the shirt to secure it in place.

Repeat for the other Sleeve.

Skip to step 7.

If you are doing the Long Sleeve OPTION, skip to step 7. If you are doing the Sleeveless version, follow along below.

NOTE – If you prefer, you can do step 7 first (sew the side seams), then come back and do this step after (finish the armholes). It gives a nicer finish at the top of the side seam but can be trickier. If you have not tried finishing armholes with bias tape before we would recommend following the order as below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the armhole. Turn the serged edge under ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Top stitch. Skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Open the single fold bias and pin it along the armhole right sides together, aligning raw edges. 

Stitch along the first fold about ¼ inch from the raw edge.

Trim off the binding excess.

Trim the seam allowance in half (⅛ inch).

Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch. 

Go slowly and make sure you don’t cut into your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole!

Press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the armhole. 

Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ from the edge or as close as you can. Stitch from the wrong side of the garment so you can see your seam allowance easily.

NOTE – Understitching is when you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This helps your bias tape stay rolled to the inside so you can’t see it and makes the armhole edges crisp.

Fold the bias all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and pin the folded edge of your binding just under your stitching line, enclosing all raw edges. 

NOTE – The finished bias Facing will be ¼ inch wide and will not be seen from the right side.

Stitch the bias to the armhole about ⅛ from the edge of the bias tape to hold it in place.

The bias tape should now be totally attached to the armhole on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.

The technique for this step is the same regardless of whether you have done the long Sleeve or Sleeveless option. If you have done the long Sleeve option, you will stitch all the way down from the hem of the Sleeve along the arm and down the side seam to the hem of the blouse. If you have done the Sleeveless OPTION, you’ll just stitch from the armhole down to the hem.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – For the long Sleeve OPTION, stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance on a sewing machine, the side seams right sides together all the way down in one line from the hem of the Sleeve up the Sleeve, under the arm and down to the hem of the blouse. For the Sleeveless OPTION, stitch down the side seam only. Serge the seam allowance. Press towards the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Then skip to step 8.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Just like with the shoulder seams, we are going to do French seams to stitch the side seams together. The reason we will be doing a French seam again is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. Again, all the steps are below so you can follow along if you haven’t done this before.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front to the Back all the way down the arm, underarm and side seam.

Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half and press this tiny seam allowance to one side. Turn the fabric, so right sides touch and making sure that the seam line is exactly at center fold, press it again.

Pin and stitch again with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

This will encase the raw edges, so you cannot see them (a French seam). Press towards the Back.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the other side.

If you are doing the Sleeveless option, skip to step 9. If you are doing the long Sleeve option, follow along below.

Take one of your Cuffs, turn the seam allowance under ½ inch and press. Set it aside.

NOTE – This photo shows a non-interfaced Cuff. Interfacing for the Cuffs is optional so you may have interfaced yours back in the preparation step.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches from one side of the Sleeve to the other. The first row should be ¼ inch from the edge. The second row should be ¾ inch from the edge. 

Gather the Sleeve evenly until it is 1 inch smaller than the Cuff piece.

TIP – If you are using a particularly sheer fabric, or a fabric which does not recover from pin holes, only do the first row of basting. You will need to be more cautious as you finish the seam to keep the gathers even and neat but that way the holes from the stitching will be hidden inside the seam allowance.

Fold your Sleeve in half lengthways and mark the center with a pin. Do the same for the Cuff piece.

Pin the Cuff right side to right side to the Sleeve, matching the center points.

Pin the ends of the Sleeve to the Cuff. The Cuff needs to be ½ inch longer than the Sleeve on either end. This is the seam allowance for when we stitch the Cuff together. Just let these bits hang over the edge.

Stitch along this edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press Cuff upwards, away from Sleeve. At this point remove any gathering stitches that might be showing.

If you’re using Ribbon Loop as your Cuff fastening, follow step this step, if opting for thread loop or snaps, skip to the step 8.7. 

RIBBON LOOP OPTION – Depending on size and preference, you can add 2 or 3 loops. 

Center and line up the raw edges of your loop/s to the right side of the main fabric Back Cuff. 

Baste the button loops in place using a longer and loose stitch and a ¼ seam allowance. 

Fold the Cuff in half right sides together. The edge you folded in step 8.1 should match up with the seam line from your stitching in step 8.5.

Stitch the ends of the Cuffs closed from where the Cuff meets the Sleeve along the edge of the Cuff. Make sure your stitching runs parallel to the raw edge of the Cuff. The seam allowance should be approximately ½ inch. 

Clip the corner of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Get close to the stitching but do not go all the way up to it.

Turn the Cuff right way out. Poke the corners out with a point turner or a blunt, pointy object like a chopstick.

Press.

Make sure all the seam allowances are tucked up neatly inside the Cuff. Then, pin the Cuff down. 

Top stitch in place close to the folded edge.

Then, continue your top stitching all the way around the Cuff, approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

If you are using interfacing, attach it to one of your Collar pieces, following manufacturer’s instructions.

With right sides together, pin Collar piece to the shirt neckline matching the markings on the Collar to the center pleat, shoulder seams and edges of the keyhole opening.  

NOTE – The raw edge of the longer, outside curve of the Collar piece is the edge that lines up with raw edge of the blouse.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance up towards the Collar. 

If you used basting to mark your pleats, remove any basting stitches that are visible from the front of the garment now.

There are a few options for fastening your Collar:  ribbon loop, thread loop, hook & eye, or snaps. We will go through them on step 10.

However, if you choose to do the Ribbon Loop option, follow this step (for other fastenings, skip to step 10).

RIBBON LOOP OPTION – Depending on size and preference, you can add 1 or 2 loops. 

Center and line up the raw edges of your loop/s to the right side of the main fabric Back Collar. Remember when aligning these to leave a ½ inch seam allowance at the top edge of the Collar.

Baste the button loops in place using a longer and loose stitch and a ¼ seam allowance. 

The remaining steps of the Collar are the same whichever fastening option you are doing.

Fold the bottom part of the Collar lining under ½ inch and press.

Place the Collar lining piece right side to right side on the Collar and pin along the top and short sides.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance from one short end to the other one, pivoting the fabric as needed.

Trim all corners.

Cut close to the stitch line but not all the way up to it. This is to reduce bulk and help turn the corners out in the next step, but you don’t want to make a hole.

Flip the Collar to the right side and use a point turner, or a blunt but pointed object, such as a chopstick, to poke the corners out. Press carefully.

Working from the right side of the Collar, pin through all layers along the bottom end of the Collar. Stitch with ⅛ inch seam allowance or as close to the edge as possible. Topstitch all around the Collar.

This step applies for the Collar and Sleeve Cuffs.

HOOK & EYE – Transfer the hook and eye marking from the Collar pattern piece on both sides of the Collar and stitch the hook and eye in place. You will stitch the male part on the part on top that overlaps.

BUTTON & BUTTON LOOP – Apply the buttons on the opposite of the Collar / Cuff.

SNAPS – Apply as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – If using the button and button loop option make sure you use either a button with a shank or sew your button on with a gap to allow the loop to go around the button.

TIP – The overlap should be that so that the top of the neckline, for the Collar, or the end of the Sleeves, for the Cuffs, should be touching. 

THREAD LOOP – Cut 2 pieces of thread that matches your dress and thread both pieces through your needle. Cut them at least 6 times the length of your intended button loop. Pull them through the needle eye until you match the ends, so you will end up with 4 threads 3 times the length of your intended button loop.

TIP – If you want to create a thicker thread button loop, you can use 3 or 4 threads from the start.

Tie a knot in the end.

Make a little stitch into the fabric where you want your loop to start.

Make a small stitch just beside the starting stitch but don’t pull the thread all the way closed until you create a loop.

Reach the needle though the center of the loop but don’t pull all the way again so you create a second loop.

Tighten the first loop and drop the needle into the second loop in the same manner.

Close the second loop and so on. Once your chain has reached your desired length, finish by pulling the needle through the fabric.

Backstitch or tie a knot. Cut the remaining thread.

Apply the buttons on the other side of the Collar / Cuff.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hemline to neaten and finish it (do not take any seam allowance off though). Turn it under by ½ inch then topstitch close to the serged edge. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.

Fold the hem towards the wrong side ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem under ¼ inch a second time to enclose all raw edges and press. Pin.

From the right side, topstitch the hem in place just under ¼ inch.  Press.