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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Women's Carolina Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This cross over dress pattern is comfy and flattering with a fitted, fully-lined bodice with high coverage. The flowy a-line skirt has three length options, there are three sleeve options, and the waistband can be gathered or plain.
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- +Preparation
- Finished garment measurements – The dress is designed to have negative ease in the bodice. This means it will be smaller than your body measurements and will stretch to fit. If you fall towards the lower end of your size range, you may find that you need to take the fabric in slightly to achieve the designed fit. The bottom of the waistband sits just below natural waist. We recommend making a muslin to be sure the fit is exactly what you are wanting.
- Measure – Please measure and use the size you fall into on the size chart. Sizing varies by designer, brand and country so please be aware it may or may not be the size you are used to.
- Selecting your size – If your measurements fall across several sizes, use the size on the size chart your chest falls into. That way the chest and shoulder area will fit best. If your waist or hips fall into a different size, print using the layers feature, so you can print the size your chest, waist and hips fall into. Then draw a gently curving line on the side seams between the sizes to blend.
- Bust adjustment – The pattern has been drafted for a sewing C cup bust. We tested the pattern with up to a J cup and found that fabric with at least a 40% stretch, fit well. B cups fit well but A found it a little loose. That said, fit can depend on body shape as well as cup size and fabric type. So, for best fit, we recommend completing a muslin as below.
- Height adjustment – This pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you wish to lengthen or shorten the top, you will need to lengthen or shorten the Front and Back Bodice, Front and Back Skirt and Sleeves.
- For the Front and Back Skirt pieces, adjust the length at the hem.
- For the Front and Back Bodice adjust the pieces 1 inch below the armhole.
- For the Sleeves, check the finished sleeve length in the chart above and adjust at the ¾ length cutting line.
- For minor length adjustments, you may find no adjustment is needed, that you can simply shorten or length at the hem as preferred.
- Muslin – For the best fit, make a muslin (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) using the Main Front and Back Bodice, Main Waistband, Skirt and Sleeve pieces to check the fit and see if you wish to make any adjustments for your body.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, double brushed poly (DBP), cotton lycra (CL) and French terry.
- Both 4 way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2 way stretch fabrics will work. For 2 way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so the stretch is going the correct direction.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to achieve the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure the top of your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and doesn’t become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- ⅜ inch / 6-10 mm wide Clear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front Bodice
- Main – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Bodice
- Main – cut 1 on fold
- Lining – cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front and Back Skirt – cut 2 on fold
- Waistband
- Gathered Waistband
- Gathered Waistband – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Waistband Lining – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OR Flat Waistband
- Fabric – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Gathered Waistband
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewThe Carolina
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This dress has a fitted, lined bodice with a cross over front and a gathered or non-gathered waistband, fitting into an A-line skirt. There are three skirt lengths to choose from; knee, midi and maxi, and three sleeve lengths; short, ¾ and long. Mix and match lengths to create multiple looks.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center back length from neck
Sleeve lengths
Knee
Midi
Maxi
Short
Three-quarter
Long
XXS
25.7
21.5
31.2
38.0
45.6
54.1
7.7
14.7
22.5
XS
27.2
23.0
33.0
38.4
46.2
54.5
8.0
15.2
23.1
S
29.2
24.5
34.2
39.0
46.6
55.1
8.1
15.5
23.5
M
31.2
26.5
37.2
39.2
47.0
55.3
8.2
15.7
24.0
L
33.2
28.5
39.3
39.6
47.4
55.7
8.3
16.1
24.3
XL
35.2
31.5
42.0
40.1
47.7
56.0
8.4
16.4
24.6
XXL
38.0
34.5
45.7
40.3
48.1
56.4
8.5
17.0
25.1
3XL
41.0
38.5
50.5
40.7
48.5
57.0
8.6
17.3
25.6
4XL
44.0
42.5
54.5
41.1
49.1
57.2
8.7
17.7
26.1
5XL
47.0
46.5
58.5
41.4
49.2
57.5
9.0
18.1
26.6
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice
Waistband
Skirt
Short sleeve
¾ sleeve
Long sleeve
Lining
Lining
Gathered waistband
Flat waistband
Knee
Midi
Maxi
XXS
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XS
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
S
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
M
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
L
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XL
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XXL
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
4XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
5XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Knee Midi Maxi Short Three-
quarterLong Gathered Plain XXS – S 2-6, 10-11,13-14, 18-22 2-6, 10-11, 13-14, 18-22, 26-28 2-6, 10-11, 13-14,
18-22, 26-28, 34-
357-8 7-8, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 17, 25 M – L 2-6, 10-14,18-22 2-6, 10-14, 18-22, 26-28 2-6, 10-14, 18-22,
26-29, 34-357-8 7-8, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 17, 25 XL 2-6, 10-14,18-23 2-6, 10-14, 18-23, 26-28 2-6, 10-14, 18-23,
26-29, 34-357-8 7-8, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 17, 25 XXL 2-6, 10-14,18-23 2-6, 10-14, 18-23, 26-28 2-6, 10-14, 18-23,
26-29, 34-357-9 7-9, 15-16 7-9, 15-16, 23-24 29-32 17, 25 3XL 2-6, 10-15,18-23 2-6, 10-15, 18-23, 26-28 2-6, 10-15, 18-23,
26-29, 34-357-9 7-9, 15-16 7-9, 15-16, 23-24 29-32 17,23, 33 4XL – 5XL 2-6, 10-15,18-23 2-6, 10-15, 18-23, 26-28 2-6, 10-15, 18-23,
26-29, 34-357-9 7-9, 15-17 7-9, 15-17, 23-24 29-32 17,23, 33 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Knee Midi Maxi Short Three-
quarterLong Gathered Plain XXS 2-6, 10-11,13-14, 18-32 2-6, 10-11, 13-14, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-11, 13-14,18-32, 26-28 7-8 7-8, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 9, 17 XS 2-6, 10-14,18-32 2-6, 10-14, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-14, 18-32,26-28 7-8 7-8, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 9, 17 S – M 2-6, 10-14,18-32 2-6, 10-14, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-14, 18-32,26-29 7-9 7-9, 15-16 7-8, 15-16, 23-24 29-31 9, 17 L 2-6, 10-14,18-32 2-6, 10-14, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-14, 18-32,26-29 7-9 7-9, 15-16 7-9, 15-16, 23-24 29-32 9, 17 XL – 3XL 2-6, 10-14,18-32 2-6, 10-14, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-14, 18-32,26-29 7-9 7-9, 15-17 7-9, 15-17, 23-24 29-32 9, 17 4XL 2-6, 10-15,18-32 2-6, 10-15, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-15, 18-32,26-29 7-9 7-9, 15-17 7-9, 15-17, 23-24 29-32 9, 17,25 5XL 2-6, 10-15,18-32 2-6, 10-15, 18-32, 26-27 2-6, 10-15, 18-32,26-29 7-9 7-9, 15-17 7-9, 15-17, 23-24 29-32 9, 17,25 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch main Front and Back Bodices, right sides together, at shoulder seams. Press. Repeat for Bodice lining.
- NECKLINE – Mark centers of the main Bodice and Bodice lining neckline, match, pin, stitch. Add clear elastic to stabilize neckline. Turn the Bodice right sides out, press. Open Bodice, press, understitch allowance to the Bodice lining. Flip the Bodice lining over, press.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch both side seams of the main Front and Back Bodice right sides together. Repeat for the Front and Back Bodice lining. Turn right side out. Cross one side of Front Bodice over the other. Pin. Pin Back Bodice main and lining. Baste main and lining together.
- WAISTBAND – GATHERED WAISTBAND – Stitch gathering stitches on both sides of main Waistband pieces. Gather to match Waistband lining. Baste. Repeat for the other main Waistband. ALL WAISTBANDS – Stitch both main Waistband pieces at side seams, right sides together. Repeat for Waistband lining. Align main Waistband right side together with main Bodice. Repeat with Bodice lining and Waistband lining. Stitch and press.
- SKIRT – Stitch side seams of Front and Back Skirt right sides together. Press. Place the Bodice inside the Skirt, right sides together. Stitch and press.
- SLEEVES – Stitch Sleeve side seam. Insert Sleeve into Bodice, pin and stitch. Press. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
- HEM – Fold bottom of Dress ½ inch to wrong side, press. Topstitch. Repeat for both Sleeves.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins.
1 . Shoulder Seams1.1With right sides together, pin the main Front Bodices to the Back Bodice at the shoulder.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL: If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams. This will prevent them from stretching out over time with wear.
Pin the clear elastic, without stretching it, and incorporate it into the shoulder seam.
TIP – Leave an excess of ½ inch of clear elastic on either side of the shoulder seam. This will make it easier to handle at the beginning and end.
NOTE – You are merely placing the elastic, not stretching it while you are pinning. If the elastic is stretched, it will make the shoulder pull and pucker.
Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Go slow and check that the elastic is being sewn into the seam as you sew.
TIP – You may find it easier to sew the seam with the elastic on the top of the fabric, as it has less contact with the feed dogs on your machine. Experiment to see which way works best with your machine.
TIP – If you are using a serger, turn the knife off to avoid cutting the elastic.
TIP – You may find it easier to sew using a Teflon coated presser foot as the elastic will not stick to it.
1.3Press the seam allowance to the back.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the Front and Back Bodice lining. Press the seam allowance to the front.
NOTE – You do not need to add clear elastic to the shoulders of the Bodice lining.
NOTE – From here on in, the two bodice pieces will be referred to as the main Bodice and the Bodice lining.
2 . Neckline2.1Mark the center back neckline of the main Bodice and the Bodice lining with a pin.
Place the main Bodice and Bodice lining, right sides together, matching the center points. Pin.
Continue pinning along both sides of the neckline.
TIP – Alternate the directions of the shoulder seams on the main and Bodice lining to reduce bulk.
2.2You are going to add clear elastic to the neckline of the Bodice lining. This will help stabilize it and prevent it from stretching out of shape.
With the Bodice lining wrong side facing up, start at one end of the neckline and pin the clear elastic, matching the edge of the elastic to the raw edge. Continuing pinning all the way up and around the back, then down to the opposite neckline edge.
TIP – Leave an excess of ½ inch of clear elastic on either side of the neckline seam. This will make it easier to handle at the beginning and end.
NOTE – You are merely placing the elastic, not stretching it while you are pinning. If the elastic is stretched, it will make the neckline pull and pucker.
2.3Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Go slow and check that the elastic is being sewn into the seam as you sew.
TIP – You may find it easier to sew the seam with the elastic on the top of the fabric, as it has less contact with the feed dogs on your machine. Experiment to see which way works best with your machine.
TIP – If you are using a serger, turn the knife off to avoid cutting the elastic.
TIP – You may find it easier to sew using a Teflon coated presser foot as the elastic will not stick to it.
2.4Turn the Bodice right sides out. Carefully press the neckline.
NOTE – Do not iron directly over the clear elastic.
2.5Open the Bodice out flat, wrong sides facing up.
Press the seam allowance towards the Bodice lining.
2.6Understitch the seam allowance to the Bodice lining.
Ensure the seam is completely flat, stretching slightly if necessary, when stitching seam allowance to lining to prevent any elastic outside the seam from making the lining protrude
NOTE – If you have not done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Bodice lining approximately ⅛ inch from where the lining and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the lining inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely so it will not be visible from the right side of the Bodice.
2.7Flip the Bodice lining over, wrong sides together. Press.
3 . Side Seams3.1With the right sides together, pin the main Front Bodice to the main Back Bodice along the side seams.
NOTE – You are only pinning two layers of (main) fabric together.
Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.2Repeat step 3.1 for the other side seam.
3.3Repeat step 3.1 to 3.2 for the Front and Back Bodice lining.
NOTE – You are only pinning two layers of (lining) fabric together.
Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Turn the Bodice right sides out.
3.4With your Bodice right side facing up, cross the LEFT Front Bodice over the RIGHT Front Bodice, matching the bottom edges. Pin.
NOTE – Do not stretch the Front Bodice when overlapping.
Pin the bottom raw edges of the main and lining Back Bodice pieces together.
3.5Baste along the bottom edge of the main and lining Bodice, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4 . Waistband4.0NOTE – The shape of the Waistband (main and lining) is slightly different than photographed, but the steps are the same.
If adding a Flat Waistband, skip to step 4.5. Photos throughout this step will show the Gathered Waistband, but the steps are the same.
For a Gathered Waistband, continue below.
4.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches down the side seams of a main Waistband piece.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge. To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end.
Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbintension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines ofsti e gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
4.2You will need to gather both sides of the main Waistband to a width of 4 inches.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the main Waistband until it is the same size as the Waistband lining.
4.3Baste each side using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.4Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other main Waistband.
4.5Place both main Waistband pieces right sides together. Pin at each side seam.
4.6Stitch or serge both side seams, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
4.7Repeat step 4.5 to 4.6 for the Waistband lining.
4.8Turn the main Waistband inside out. Slide it over the main Bodice, right sides together. Align the side seams and pin.
TIP – Find the center of the Waistband and the Front and Back and match these together. Pinning the centers and side seams.
4.9Slide the Waistband lining into the Bodice lining, right sides together. Align the side seams and pin.
Take your time to pin these together as you will be pinning six layers together.
TIP – Face the seams on the main and lining in opposite directions. This will help reduce bulk.
Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.10Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
4.11Press the seam allowance down away from the Bodice. Flip the Waistband pieces down and baste the Waistband main and lining pieces together.
5 . Skirt5.1Align the side seams of the Front and Back Skirt, right sides together. Pin.
5.2Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Press the side seam to the back.
5.3Slip the Bodice inside the Skirt, right sides together. The bottom of the Waistband meets the top edge of the Skirt. Pin.
5.4Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
5.5Press the seam allowance towards the Skirt.
6 . Sleeves6.0This step is the same for any of the Sleeve lengths.
6.1Fold a Sleeve in half, right sides together, matching the side seams. Pin.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.3Turn the Dress wrong side out and the Sleeve right side out.
Baste the Bodice main and lining together at the armscye.
Mark the center of the Sleeve with a pin.
Slide the Sleeve inside the Bodice matching the center of the Sleeve with the shoulder seams. Pin.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the correct side of the Dress. If you put them in the wrong way, the top of the Sleeve will sit slightly twisted and will not be very comfortable.
Match the side seams together and pin. Continue pinning, easing the Sleeve along the armscye at the seam allowance. Keep the raw edges approximately aligned but don’t worry if there is some waviness along the raw edge. This is normal with easing. What you are trying to do is keep the fabric of the armscye and the Sleeve flat where the stitching will be (⅜ inch from the edge), not at the raw edges.
6.4Stitch using your sewing machine using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – If you are serging, use your sewing machine to stitch first to help prevent any folds or puckers along the seamline. Then finish by serging the raw edges.
6.5Press the seam allowance away from the Sleeve, towards the Bodice.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 for the other Sleeve.
7 . Hem7.1Fold the Dress hem under ½ inch and press.
Stitch along the hem, close to the raw edge, using a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – You can use a twin needle or coverstitch for hemming.
7.2Repeat step 7.1 for both Sleeves.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Carolina is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcarolinacrossoverdress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewThe Carolina
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This dress has a fitted, lined bodice with a cross over front and a gathered or non-gathered waistband, fitting into an A-line skirt. There are three skirt lengths to choose from; knee, midi and maxi, and three sleeve lengths; short, ¾ and long. Mix and match lengths to create multiple looks.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center back length from neck
Sleeve lengths
Knee
Midi
Maxi
Short
Three-quarter
Long
XXS
25.7
21.5
31.2
38.0
45.6
54.1
7.7
14.7
22.5
XS
27.2
23.0
33.0
38.4
46.2
54.5
8.0
15.2
23.1
S
29.2
24.5
34.2
39.0
46.6
55.1
8.1
15.5
23.5
M
31.2
26.5
37.2
39.2
47.0
55.3
8.2
15.7
24.0
L
33.2
28.5
39.3
39.6
47.4
55.7
8.3
16.1
24.3
XL
35.2
31.5
42.0
40.1
47.7
56.0
8.4
16.4
24.6
XXL
38.0
34.5
45.7
40.3
48.1
56.4
8.5
17.0
25.1
3XL
41.0
38.5
50.5
40.7
48.5
57.0
8.6
17.3
25.6
4XL
44.0
42.5
54.5
41.1
49.1
57.2
8.7
17.7
26.1
5XL
47.0
46.5
58.5
41.4
49.2
57.5
9.0
18.1
26.6
Materials and Tools- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, double brushed poly (DBP), cotton lycra (CL) and French terry.
- Both 4 way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2 way stretch fabrics will work. For 2 way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so the stretch is going the correct direction.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to achieve the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure the top of your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and doesn’t become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Bodice
Waistband
Skirt
Short sleeve
¾ sleeve
Long sleeve
Lining
Lining
Gathered waistband
Flat waistband
Knee
Midi
Maxi
XXS
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XS
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
S
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
M
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
L
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XL
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.50
0.25
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
XXL
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
3XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
4XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
5XL
1.00
1.00
1.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
1.75
1.75
2.00
2.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch / 6-10 mm wide Clear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.