Women's City Joggers

Staystitch

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the waist is likely to stretch during construction and then, the waistband won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stitch each of the Front and Back Legs at the waist, starting at the front rise seam and stitching in the direction of the arrows.

OPTIONAL Buttonholes

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring cord, transfer the buttonhole markings from the Waistband pattern piece to the Waistband.

ALTERNATIVE: If you would prefer to use eyelets/grommets instead of buttonholes, add these now using the manufacturer’s instructions.

OPTIONAL Interfacing

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring cord, use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the Waistband where the buttonhole markings are.

OPTIONAL Wonder-Under Tape

Apply Wonder-Under Tape to the Trim pieces per manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE – Optional Pocket is NOT COMPATIBLE with the OPTIONAL Trim.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Pocket right sides together to the side seam of the Front Leg 1-inch down of the top edge. Follow step 1.7. Then, press the seam allowance towards the Pocket. Repeat to attach the second Pocket to the other side. Repeat to attach a Pocket to each Back Leg.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Place a Pocket piece wrong sides together (right sides out) onto one side of the Front Leg, 1 inch down from the top edge.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half along the Pocket section of the raw edge only. DO NOT trim all the way down the Front Leg side seam, just along the Pocket.

Open the Pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.

Flip the Pocket over so the right sides are together and press well along the seam.

Stitch again along the edge of the Pocket using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

There will now be a little fold on the top and bottom of the Pocket.

Snip this piece parallel to the top of the Pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric will lay flat. Don’t cut past the Pocket.

Flip the Pocket over and press the seam well.

TIP – Understitch along the Pocket and Front Leg seam. This will hide the raw edges and catch the seam allowance, so it all lays flat in the finished garment. To do this, keep the Pocket piece flipped away from the Front Leg. Edge stitch between ⅛ and ¼ inch from the seam line.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.8 to attach a Pocket to the other side of the Front Leg.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.8 to attach a Pocket to each Back Leg piece.

Photos show construction without OPTIONAL Pockets. If you have added OPTIONAL Pockets, Side Seam construction will be the seam. Follow the raw edges around the pockets and down the sides.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with right sides together, sew the Front Leg to Back Leg along the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then finish the edges on the serger. Skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our trouser. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Front Leg and the Back Leg together along the side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.  

NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.

Turn the Leg so the right sides are facing, press the side seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.

TIP – Press the seam allowances toward the back before turning the trouser right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.  

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).  

Press the seam allowance towards the Back Leg.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the other Front and Back Leg.

If you are not adding optional trim skip to step 4. If you are adding optional trim, follow below.

With a Leg piece right sides facing up, center the Trim over the side seam. Pin.

TIP – To help keep the Trim in place while sewing, apply Wonder-Under Tape to the Trim instead of pinning. 

Starting at the waist, topstitch ¼ inch from the edge of the Trim, along the Back Leg.

Repeat step 3.2 along the Front Leg.  

TIP – Sew both seams from the waist down to the hem.  It might be a bit awkward under the machine, but it will prevent waviness and shifting that can happen when sewing in opposite directions.  

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the other Leg and Trim piece.  

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with right sides together, sew the left Front Leg and right Front leg along the rise seam, using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on the serger. Repeat for back rise seam. Then skip to step 5.  

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Continue below.  

The front rise is also sewn using a French seam.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5. With the wrong sides together, pin the left Leg to the right Leg along the front rise.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.

Repeat step 4.1 to stitch the back rise.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Using a regular sewing machine first, with the right sides together, sew the Front Leg to the Back Leg along the inseam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish the edges on the serger. Then skip to step 6.  

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Continue below.  

The inseam is also sewn using a French seam.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5. With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Leg to the Back Leg all the way from one hem, up to the rise, then down to the other hem. 

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn, press, and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press.

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring, skip to step 6.2. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Drawstring start at step 6.1 to stitch the buttonholes.

OPTIONAL DRAWSTRING: You will need to stitch buttonholes to thread the drawstring through. 

Using the settings on your machine, stitch buttonholes onto the Waistband at the pattern markings.  

With the Waistband wrong sides facing up, fold one long edge ½ inch to the wrong side. If you have used directional fabric, make sure this is the top edge. Press.

NOTE – If you have stitched buttonholes for the OPTIONAL Drawstring, you will be pressing the opposite long edge.

Unfold the pressed edge. Fold the Waistband in half, length wise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press.

Unfold the pressed edge. Match the short edges, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Press the seam allowance open. 

Find and mark the quarter points of the Waistband.

Find and mark the quarter points of the Joggers.

Place the Waistband onto the Joggers, right sides together, matching the unfolded edge of the Waistband to the Joggers. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance up towards the Waistband.

Fold the Waistband at the pressed center line from step 6.3.

Press again if needed.  

Pin along the Waistband. Making sure to catch the seam allowances inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.

TIP – Pin from the right side of the Pants along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband. Flip it over to check as you go. 

We are going to ‘stitch in the ditch’. This is where you stitch exactly on top of a previous seam. You will just catch the other side of the waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden. The stitching won’t easily be visible in the finished garment.

From the right side of the Pants, stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Pants flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Pants. Occasionally, lift the pants up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Waistband.

Leave a 3-inch gap along the back edge to insert the elastic.  

TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Pants instead of the Waistband. This usually ends up fairly invisible.

ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the Waistband with an ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Insert the elastic through the gap left in step 6.12 and pull it through the Waistband.  

TIP – Pin the opposite end of elastic to the pants while threading it through the Waistband so it doesn’t get pulled inside. 

Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the Waistband.

Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).

FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the pants, before continuing to the next step.

Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.

Pull the elastic inside the Waistband.  

Using the same method as step 6.12, close the gap where the elastic was inserted.  

If you are not adding the optional drawstring skip to step 8. If you are adding the optional drawstring, follow below.

Using pins, a washable marker, or the guide on the sewing machine, mark ½ inch from the top edge of the Waistband, all the way around.

While holding the elastic taut, but not stretching the Waistband, topstitch around the entire Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 using 1 ¼ inch seam allowance from the top edge, starting ½ inch from the waist seam. This will create the casing for the Drawstring. 

Tie a knot in one end of the Drawstring. 

NOTE – If you prefer to use toggles at the end of the Drawstring add one here now.

Insert the knotted end of the Drawstring into the casing created in the Waistband. 

TIP – Pin the opposite end of the Drawstring to the pants while threading it through the casing, so it doesn’t get pulled inside.

Insert the Drawstring all the way around the Waistband.  

Cut to the desired length. Tie a knot in the other end of the Drawstring.

NOTE – If you are adding toggles to the end, add the other toggle here.

OPTIONAL: Center the Drawstring within the Waistband. Stitch over the Drawstring at the center back of the Waistband to secure.  

Tie the Drawstring in a bow or a knot.  

If you are not doing the elastic hem, skip to step 9. If you are doing the elastic hem, follow below.

Press the hem edge of the Leg ¼ inch to the wrong side.  

Press again 1 ¼ inch to the wrong side.  

Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving a 2-inch gap to insert the elastic.  

Insert the elastic through the 2-inch gap from step 7.3 and pull it through the elastic casing.  

TIP – Pin the opposite end of the elastic to the pants while threading it through the elastic casing so it doesn’t get pulled inside. 

Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the casing. 

Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).

FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their cuff. Check that it will sit comfortably around their ankle, before continuing to the next step. It should not be too loose or too tight. Adjust to your personal fit.

Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.

Pull the elastic inside the casing. Pin the 2-inch gap closed.

Topstitch close to the folded edge, closing the gap where the elastic was inserted.  

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.8 to hem the second Leg. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the bottom edge without removing any fabric. Press ¾ inch to the wrong side. Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press.

Press again ½ inch to the wrong side.

Topstitch close to the folded edge, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Your City Joggers are finished!