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Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Women's Comfy Cowl Hoodie
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This cowl hoodie sewing pattern produces a loose-fitting, cosy jumper that can be worn all year round. It has a slightly dropped shoulder with the option of a front pocket and hood cord to suit your style.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size you fall into on our size chart, rather than what size you’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Picking your size – This hoodie is a loose fitting garment. When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in to the correct waist & hip size.
- Height – This pattern is drafted for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller or shorter, there are three places that depending on your height and proportions you may need to adjust the length, at the waist (at belly button height), at the sleeve (midway from the point where the side seam meets the sleeve head) and at the chest (mid-way through the armhole depth).
- Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice/old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Hoodie fabric – Your hoodie fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
- NOTE – You can use lightweight knits/stretch fabrics for this hoodie. However, if you do not do the cord through the hood opening in step 6, it may result in a ‘wavy’ type appearance around the hood opening when the hood is up. As the hood piece is cut on the bias, lighter weight fabric tends to pull out of shape slightly. The cord, and/or a medium-weight/heavier fabric will help the hood keep its shape while up.
- Ribbing fabric – This is for the cuffs and waistband only. As per the last column below, you will only need a narrow strip of ribbing if your ribbing fabric is full width.
- Fabric quantities – If you’d like your hoodie to be all the same fabric/color, use the fabric requirements in the first column below only. If you’d like a contrasting hood/pocket, then follow the middle two columns only. You do not need to get all three columns worth of fabric!
- OPTIONAL Cord – You will need approximately 1 yard of cord for the hood opening. This is slightly more than needed and will allow you to cut it to length as you would prefer in step 6.
- NOTE – If you are using a light-weight knit that will not hold its shape on its own very easily, the cord option will help stabilize the hood edge. The cord is optional however it will keep the hood edge from going ‘wavy’ while the hood is up if your fabric is lightweight.
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 1 on the fold
- Back – Cut 1 on the fold
- Sleeves – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Hood – Cut 2 on the fold
- NOTE – If you want the inside of the hood to be a contrast color, cut one from your main hoodie fabric, and one from your contrast color. If you would like them both the same, cut both from your hoodie fabric.
- Cuffs – Cut 2
- Waistband – Cut 1 on the fold
- OPTIONAL Pocket – Cut 2x pocket pieces on the fold out.
- NOTE – If you want the inside (or outside) of the pocket to be a contrast color, cut one from your main hoodie fabric, and one from your contrast color. If you would like them both the same, cut both from your hoodie fabric.
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewComfy Cowl Hoodie
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This easy to sew hoodie pattern is super comfy and cosy. It’s perfect to wear around the house or for going out. Add an optional front pocket and hood cord or use contrasting fabric for the hood and pocket to give it that extra wow factor.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
XXS
33.5
30.5
33.5
XS
35.5
32.5
35.5
S
37.5
34.0
37.5
M
39.5
36.0
39.5
L
41.5
38.0
41.5
XL
45.0
42.5
45.0
XXL
48.0
44.5
48.0
3XL
51.0
48.5
51.0
4XL
54.5
52.0
54.5
5XL
58.0
55.5
58.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
ALL One Fabric
SEPARATE Fabric
Main
Hood / Pocket
Ribbing
XXS – XL
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
XXL – 5XL
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Hoodie OPTIONAL Pocket XXS – XS 2-5, 7-27, 29-30 6 S – L 2-5, 7-28, 29-30 6 XL – 3XL 2-5, 7-28, 29-30 5-6 4XL – 5XL 2-5, 7-30 5-6 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Hoodie OPTIONAL Pocket XXS – XS 2-5, 7-27, 29-30 6 S 2-5, 7-28, 29-30 6 M – 3XL 2-5, 7-28, 29-30 5-6 4XL – 5XL 2-5, 7-30 5-6 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Cuff (Cut 2)
Waistband (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
6.3
7.1
6.3
27.3
XS
6.3
7.3
6.3
29.1
S
6.3
7.4
6.3
30.9
M
6.3
7.6
6.3
32.7
L
6.3
7.9
6.3
34.4
XL
6.3
8.3
6.3
38.0
XXL
6.3
8.7
6.3
41.0
3XL
6.3
9.2
6.3
44.0
4XL
6.3
9.7
6.3
47.5
5XL
6.3
10.2
6.3
51.0
Cutting Checklist:
To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- OPTIONAL POCKET – Place the Pocket Front and Pocket Lining pieces with the right side of the fabrics together. Serge/stitch all the way around the sides and top. Leave the long bottom edge open. Trim the seam allowance and cut the corners of the Pocket off. Turn the Pocket right side out and press. Top stitch across both diagonals only. Top stitch the Pocket sides and top to the Hoodie front, matching up stitching with your top stitching of the diagonals.
- BODY – Pin the Front and Back Bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams. Stitch/serge the shoulder. Pin the Bodice sides with the right sides of the fabric together. Stitch/serge the Bodice sides.
- ARMS – For each Sleeve, fold the Sleeve in half, right sides together. Stitch/serge each side seam. With the Bodice wrong side out and the Sleeves right side out, pin each Sleeve into the armhole on the body so they are right sides together. Serge/stitch together (ease stitch the Sleeve caps if necessary, for them to fit nicely).
- CUFFS – Fold both Cuffs lengthwise right side to right side. Stitch/serge to create a tube. Fold each Cuff in half wrong side to wrong side along the fold line as mark on the pattern piece. Working from the right side of the Sleeve, place one folded Cuff on to the end of the Sleeve so that the raw edges of the Cuff and Sleeve meet. Align the Cuff seams with the Sleeve seam and match the quarter points. Stitch/serge while stretching the Cuff gently to match the Sleeve.
- WAISTBAND – Repeat step 4 with the waistband piece to attach it to the body.
- HOOD – CORD Version Only – Either stitch two buttonholes or insert eyelets as marked on the pattern piece for main Hood piece only (do not do this for the Hood lining). ALL VERSIONS – Fold each Hood piece in half, right side to right side, and stitch/serge the center back seam. Place the one Hood piece inside the other one so they are right side to right side. Stitch/serge the Hood piece and Hood lining along the top seam. NO CORD Version Only – Top stitch around the top edge of the Hood. CORD Version Only – Top stitch around the top edge of the Hood, 1 inch from the edge. This will create the casing for the cord. The buttonholes or eyelets should now be centered in the casing. ALL VERSIONS – Turn the body wrong side out and the Hood right side out. Place the Hood inside the body of the garment. Pin the raw edges of the Hood to the neckline of the body. Gently stretch your fabric so it all meets nicely. Stitch/serge the neckline seam. CORD Version Only – Thread your cord through the casing of the Hood. Trim to the desired length and knot or finish both ends of the cord.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with double needle)
Sewing –
1 . OPTIONAL PocketSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching is two rows at ⅛ and ¼ inch (can be done with double needle)
1.1Place the Pocket Front and Pocket Lining pieces with the right side of the fabrics together.
Serge/stitch all the way around the sides and top. Leave the long bottom edge open.
TIP – To get a nice sharp corner on the yoke, go slowly and put the needle down when you get ⅜ inch from the edge. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser foot down again.
1.2Trim the seam allowance in half and cut the corners of the Pocket off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching, just cut the bulk off so it’s easier when we turn it right way out).
1.3Turn the Pocket right side out and press carefully.
TIP – I use a blunt chopstick to poke the corners of the yoke out, so they are nice and neat.
TIP – To ensure a professional and polished look, make sure to press your seams even when sewing sweater-type fabrics. Test on a scrap of fabric first to find out the best temperature for your fabric. If the iron leaves a mark, try using a pressing cloth dampen with water or steam and press on and off until your cloth is dry.
NOTE – Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric. It is especially important to PRESS knits rather than iron them to prevent your fabric from stretching out.
1.4Top stitch across both diagonals at ⅛ and ¼ inch from the edge (you can use a twin needle to get a stretch stitch and do both lines of stitching at the same time). Do not stitch all the way to the edge of the diagonal, start and stop approximately ¼ inch from the edges so you can join the stitching when you do the next step.
TIP – For a clean finish, DO NOT backstitch when using a twin needle. Pull the spool threads to the underside and simply tie a knot with the bobbin thread.
TIP – If you do not have a twin needle, you can top stitch using a single zigzag stitch. Test on a scrap to find the length and width working best with your fabric.
1.5Transfer the markings of the Pocket from the pattern piece to the Front of the Bodice with a washable pen or chalk. To transfer the markings, I like to punch a small hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark either with an awl or a pin.
1.6Pin your Pocket to the Front as per your markings. Top stitch the Pocket sides and top. Go slowly here and make sure your twin needle starts and ends exactly where the stitching from the diagonal did, so it looks like it’s one continuous stitch. Leave a thread tail at the beginning and end. Once you are done with your stitching, pull your threads of both sides to the underside and tie a knot like you did step 1.4.
TIP – Alternately, instead of pins, you can use a wash-away double sided tape such as Wonder Tape on the lining side of the Pocket. This method is especially helpful if your fabric has a tendency to stretch while top stitching. Not only will it hold the Pocket in place, it will also stabilize your fabric and prevent it from pulling out of shape.
2 . Body2.1Pin the Front and Back Bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams. Stitch or serge the shoulder using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Trim the seam to ¼ inch and press to the Back.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out over time with wear. To install the elastic leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.
2.2Pin the Bodice sides with the right sides of the fabric together. Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Trim the seam allowance in half and press to the Back.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
3 . Arms3.1For each Sleeve, fold the Sleeve in half, right sides together. Stitch/serge along the sides using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Trim the seam allowances in half and press.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seams with a stretch overcasting stitch.
3.2Turn the Sleeves right side out. Fold the Sleeves in half and place a pin at the top of the fold to mark the Sleeve caps.
3.3With the Bodice wrong side out and the Sleeves right side out, pin each Sleeve into the armhole on the body so they are right sides together. Start by matching the underarm seams and the shoulder seams with the middle point of the Sleeve caps so both the top and bottom of the Sleeves are in correctly. If you are using a fabric with good stretch, no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place. For each Sleeve, stitch/serge along the armhole using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Trim the seam allowances in half and press.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
NOTE – If your fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch you may need to ease stitch the Sleeve into the Bodice to distribute the fullness of the Sleeve into the armhole. To do this, sew a row of basting stitches (long loose stitches) just inside the ⅜ inch seam allowance along the Sleeve caps (the curve of the Sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting in between the seam allowance and the raw edge. Pin the seam right sides together starting at the underarm seam. When you reach your basting stitches pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the armhole of the Bodice. Sew the seam with the short side on top making sure that there are no puckers. Press.
4 . Cuffs4.1Fold both Cuffs lengthwise right side to right side. Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch to create a tube. Make sure to check the pattern piece to stitch the correct sides together. On the smaller sizes it’s easy to get this the wrong way around. Press the seam open.
4.2Fold each Cuff in half wrong side to wrong side along the fold line as a mark on the pattern piece. Press lightly making sure not to stretch the ribbing.
4.3Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of the Cuffs and Sleeves.
4.4Working from the right side of the Sleeve, place one folded Cuff onto the end of the Sleeve so that the raw edges of the Cuff and Sleeve meet. Align the Cuff seams with the Sleeve seam and match the quarter points. Pin to secure. Stitch or serge while stretching the Cuff gently to match the Sleeve using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.
Turn the Cuffs right way out and press the Cuffs down and away from the Sleeve. The raw edges should now be inside the Sleeve.
5 . Waistband5.1Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 with the Waistband piece to create a large, folded loop.
5.2Repeat step 4.3 to attach the Waistband to the hem of the body.
6 . Hood6.1CORD Option – If you want to do the cord version, transfer the markings on either side of the fold on ONE Hood piece only (if you are using a contrast fabric for the Hood lining, transfer your markings on the main/outside Hood piece). You will either stitch two buttonholes or insert eyelets according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
NO-CORD Option – Skip to step 6.2.
6.2Fold each Hood piece in half, right side to right side, and pin at the center back seams. Stitch/serge along the center back using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press the seams open on each Hood piece.
6.3Turn one Hood piece right side out. Leave one Hood piece wrong side out.
6.4Place the right side out Hood piece inside the other one so they are now right side to right side. Pin in place along the top of the Hood.
6.5Stitch/serge the Hood piece and Hood lining along the top of the Hood using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Turn right side out and press.
6.6Top stitch around the top edge of the Hood at ⅛ and ¼ inch from the edge (use a twin needle to get a stretch stitch and do both lines of stitching at the same time).
NOTE – Part of the Hood edge is cut on the bias which means it will stretch easily. Stitch slowly to avoid pulling the fabric because if you stretch the Hood edge, it will create a ‘wave’ effect on the finished Hood edge (which will be noticeable while wearing the Hood up).
If you are using fabric that stretches while stitching very easily (e.g. very thin fabric or with a very high stretch content), do not do this step. Skip to step 6.6 instead. This step is just to hold the edges of the Hood together neatly. You can achieve a similar effect by pressing neatly instead.
6.7We are now going to do the same to attach the Hood as we did for the Cuffs. Turn the body wrong side out and the Hood right side out (if you used a contrast fabric for the lining of the Hood, consider this as your wrong side and make sure this is on the inside of the Hood as it will be in the finished garment).
Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of the neckline and of the Hood.
6.8Place the Hood inside the body of the garment. Pin the raw edges of the Hood to the neckline of the body. Start by pinning at the center back and center front, then in quarters then the rest of the neckline. Gently stretch your fabric so it all meets nicely. Make sure your 3 layers are lined up correctly all the way around the neckline.
6.9Stitch/serge the neckline seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Trim the seam allowance in half.
OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch. Turn the garment right side out. The seam of the neckline will now be on the inside.
Give a final good press and you are done!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Comfy Cowl Hoodie is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcomfycowl.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewComfy Cowl Hoodie
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This easy to sew hoodie pattern is super comfy and cosy. It’s perfect to wear around the house or for going out. Add an optional front pocket and hood cord or use contrasting fabric for the hood and pocket to give it that extra wow factor.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
XXS
33.5
30.5
33.5
XS
35.5
32.5
35.5
S
37.5
34.0
37.5
M
39.5
36.0
39.5
L
41.5
38.0
41.5
XL
45.0
42.5
45.0
XXL
48.0
44.5
48.0
3XL
51.0
48.5
51.0
4XL
54.5
52.0
54.5
5XL
58.0
55.5
58.0
Materials and Tools- Hoodie fabric – Your hoodie fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
- NOTE – You can use lightweight knits/stretch fabrics for this hoodie. However, if you do not do the cord through the hood opening in step 6, it may result in a ‘wavy’ type appearance around the hood opening when the hood is up. As the hood piece is cut on the bias, lighter weight fabric tends to pull out of shape slightly. The cord, and/or a medium-weight/heavier fabric will help the hood keep its shape while up.
- Ribbing fabric – This is for the cuffs and waistband only. As per the last column below, you will only need a narrow strip of ribbing if your ribbing fabric is full width.
- Fabric quantities – If you’d like your hoodie to be all the same fabric/color, use the fabric requirements in the first column below only. If you’d like a contrasting hood/pocket, then follow the middle two columns only. You do not need to get all three columns worth of fabric!
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
ALL One Fabric
SEPARATE Fabric
Main
Hood / Pocket
Ribbing
XXS – XL
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
XXL – 5XL
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Cord – You will need approximately 1 yard of cord for the hood opening. This is slightly more than needed and will allow you to cut it to length as you would prefer in step 6.
- NOTE – If you are using a light-weight knit that will not hold its shape on its own very easily, the cord option will help stabilize the hood edge. The cord is optional however it will keep the hood edge from going ‘wavy’ while the hood is up if your fabric is lightweight.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
- Hoodie fabric – Your hoodie fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.