Women's Eloise Dress

The Eloise

Difficulty Level = Beginner

From swim cover to cocktail maxi, The Eloise is an easy summer sew. You can choose elastic casings or shirring for the neckline, waist, and short or three-quarter length sleeves. Leave out the elastic at the waist and sleeves for a loose and flowy look. Both knit and woven fabrics are beautiful for this. With the options for a top, mid-thigh, midi, and maxi lengths, the choices are endless!

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct bust measurement. That way the top part is likely to fit well. Then, grade out or in to the correct waist and hip size.
• Height – For ladies, the pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches.
  • You can adjust the height at both the waist elastic marking and at the hemline.  
  • Sleeve length can be adjusted at the sleeve hem.  
• Ladies bust size – The pattern is designed for a sewing C cup. Every person is a slightly different shape and the top will sit differently on different bust shapes and silhouettes. 
  • If you are a smaller cup size, you may need to make alterations to have the shirt sit how you prefer. There are many good “small bust adjustment” tutorials on the internet to show you how to adjust a pattern for perfect fit.
  • If you are a larger cup size, do a muslin to check you are happy with the fit. In testing we found that bust sizes up to a J cup fit well in most sizes, however it depended on personal shape and for some, a larger cup size lifted the hemline at the front and required more length added at the front hemline. If you find you need to do a full bust adjustment, adjust the pattern pieces accordingly.
• Elastic OPTION – For a custom fit, use the elastic cutting pieces as a suggestion and try your waist and arm elastic around your model.  Adjust the length as comfortable. If you are using a medium or heavier weight fabric, you may need to tighten your elastic more than with a lighter weight one, as the weight of the fabric will pull and stretch it.
• Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments.
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

Suitable fabrics: 

• Any light or medium weight woven fabric. 
• Or alternatively any light weight 4-way stretch fabric. 2-way stretch, or heavy 4-way stretch fabrics will not work as they will sag under the weight of the dress and the direction of the grainline.
• A fabric with drape (such as rayon spandex, georgette, rayon or crepe de chine) will give a softer look to the dress. 
• A fabric with more body (such as a quilting cotton, linen or taffeta) will give more structure to the dress. 
• Remember when picking your fabric that a fabric with drape will give beautiful folds and movement. A fabric without drape that is stiffer will look boxier and more oversized. 

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Elastic Casing OPTION: ½ inch wide Elastic – 3 yards
• OR Shirring Elastic OPTION: 1x spool of shirring elastic with a spare bobbin
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, iron, ironing board, and pins or clips. A serger or overlocker is optional but not required.

NOTE – When selecting your fabric, please note that the ladies front and back dress maxi-length pattern pieces are cut with a horizontal grainline (e.g. the pattern pieces are placed running down the grainline rather than across it as you may expect). It does restrict your fabric choice to only wovens or fabrics with 4-way stretch (2-way fabrics will not work drape correctly and may stretch out of shape when cut this way), however it allows the dress to be cut in one continuous piece and ensures seam lines do not interfere with the elastic. All other sizes and lengths can be cut in the traditional direction.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Elastic Cutting charts – The following charts are only if you are following the elastic casing option (these pieces are not required if doing the shirring option). The other pieces are not rectangular so you will need to cut using the pattern pieces provided.

Elastic Casing OPTION

Shirred Elastic OPTION

Cutting checklist:

• Front – Cut 1 on fold
• Back – Cut 1 on fold
• Sleeves – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
  • NOTE – The short Sleeve can be finished with a hem. The three quarter length Sleeve can be finished with a hem, Elastic Casing or Shirring.
• NOTE – If you are sewing the Shirred OPTION you will only need the pieces listed above. If you are sewing the Elastic Casing OPTION you will need the additional pieces listed below.
• Elastic Casing OPTION:
  • Front Neckline Casing – Cut 1
  • Back Neckline Casing – Cut 1
  • Waist Casing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
    • NOTE – This is not needed for the top length and is optional for thigh length
  • Sleeve Head Casing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
  • Sleeve Cuff Casing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)

You will also need the following elastics cut from the guide provided or the chart above:

• • 1x Waist elastic
  • 1x Neckline elastic
  • 2x Sleeve Cuff elastic

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for topstitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when topstitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Topstitching ⅛ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. SLEEVES – Sew the sleeves to the bodice using either a serger or French seams. If you are doing the shirred option leave the left back sleeve open for now. For the shirred option skip to step 3.
2. ELASTIC OPTION: NECKLINE – Sew the Sleeve head casings to the Front and Back top casing to form a continuous loop. With the right sides together, pin the casing to the top of the Bodice and stitch. Fold the edge down ½ inch and press. Flip the casing over, so that the wrong sides are together and topstitch in place leaving a 1 ½ inch opening to insert the elastic. Stitch ½ inch away from the previous line of stitching to create a channel for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the opening and then overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch together using a zig zag stitch. Topstitch to close the opening.
3. SHIRRED OPTION: NECKLINE – Fold the top edge over ¼ inch twice and press. Pin and topstitch close to the folded edge. Load the bobbin with elastic thread for shirring. With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the neckline approximately ½ inch from the top edge. Stitch two more rows of shirring, ¼ inch apart.
4. ELASTIC OPTION: SLEEVE – Place the Sleeve Cuff Casing on the bottom of the Sleeve with the right sides together and stitch. Press open the seam allowance. Fold the top edge down ½ inch and press. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Skip to step 7.  If you prefer a loose fit to your Sleeve, follow the shirred option for the Sleeve and do not add the shirring.  
5. SHIRRED OPTION: SLEEVES – Fold the edge of the Sleeve under ¼ inch twice and press. Pin and topstitch close to the folded edge. With the right side of the fabric up, sew a line of shirring approximately ½ inch from edge of the Sleeve. Stitch two more rows of shirring, ¼ inch apart. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Use a serger or French seams to sew the left back Sleeve to the Bodice. For a loose fit, do not add shirring.  
6. SHIRRED OPTION: WAIST – NOTE – If doing top length or thigh length without waist gathering, skip to step 7. With the right side of the fabric up, sew a row of shirring along the line that you marked on the Bodice. Sew two more rows of shirring ¼ inch apart.
7. SIDE SEAMS – Using a serger or French seams sew the side seams from the Sleeve Cuff down along the Bodice. For the shirred option skip to step 10.
8. SLEEVE HEM – Fold the Sleeve hem under ¼ inch twice, press and topstitch.
9. ELASTIC OPTION: FINISHING THE SLEEVES – Flip the Casing over so that the wrong sides are together and press. Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving 1 ½ inch opening to insert the elastic. Stitch ½ inch away from the previous line of stitching to create a channel for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the opening and then overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch together using a zig zag stitch. Topstitch to close the opening. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
10. ELASTIC OPTION: WAIST – NOTE – If doing top length or thigh length without waist gathering, skip to step 11.  Fold down both of the long edges of the Waist Casing ½ inch and press. Open out the folds along the short ends. Stitch right sides together into a circle. Pin the Waist Casing to the front bodice, matching the top of the casing to the line and stitch along both of the folded edges. On the bottom edge leave a 1 ½ opening to insert the elastic. Thread the elastic through the opening and then overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch together using a zig zag stitch. Topstitch to close the opening.
11. HEM – Fold the hem to the wrong side ¼ inch twice. Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Congratulations, your Eloise is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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