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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by app.youmakehq.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to app.youmakehq.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
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Women's Flutter Wrap Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
The Flutter Wrap Dress sewing pattern is a comfortable, beginner-friendly sew with a stylish design and head-turning features.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements.
- Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct bust measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or in to the correct waist & hip size.
- Fabric stretch – If your fabric is very very stretchy (e.g. more than 55%), we would recommend doing a muslin to check the fit before cutting your final garment. You may find that if you are on the lower end of your size range with particularly stretchy fabric that you might need to use the next size down.
- Bust adjustment – The ladies size is designed for a sewing C cup. Given the snug fit, if you are an A or B cup, you shouldn’t need any adjustment.
- However, if you are a D cup or above and using a 2 way stretch fabric, or an E cup or above and using a 4 way stretch fabric, I’d highly recommend doing a muslin to check if you need a FBA (full bust adjustment). If unsure, do a muslin to check. In pre-testing we found that some fabrics required this, others were more forgiving in the fit and didn’t need an FBA.
- Height adjustment – This dress is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length at different locations throughout the dress.
- If you are taller or shorter than your size range and wish to adjust the height based on your body measurements, there are several places you may need to adjust it;
- Bodice: The bodice can be adjusted in two places, the armscye and waist.
- Armscye. To adjust the length of the bodice, add or remove length half way through the armscye.
- Waist. To adjust the length of the bodice, add or remove length along the waist line.
- Skirt: For the skirt, check the finished back length measurement in the chart above, then lengthen/shorten midway through the skirt.
- Ruffle: If you have adjusted the Skirt, the Ruffle needs to be adjusted as well. Lengthen/shorten midway through the Front Ruffle.
- Bodice: The bodice can be adjusted in two places, the armscye and waist.
- If you are 2 or more inches less than the recommended height for your size, we would recommend doing a muslin as you may find the bodice too long. If it is, adjust both the armhole depth and bodice height to be shorter to suit.
- If you are taller or shorter than your size range and wish to adjust the height based on your body measurements, there are several places you may need to adjust it;
- Lower back wrinkling – The darts in the back are there to stop any wrinkling on the lower back. Most body shapes will find this is sufficient however if you have a sway back, you may need to do a sway back adjustment in addition to this.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Cut out all pieces and label them with tailors chalk / fabric pen. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however best results & fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- A fabric with 4 way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more.
- This is a great pattern for combining different fabrics and looks. Most will work great; however, some need checking. Fabric on the bodice with above 45% stretch can mean the bodice is stretched (resulting in the bodice being too long and armhole too deep). We would recommend 40-45% stretch for the bodice only. You can use a higher percentage stretch on the skirt if you wish, however make sure to take note of how your fabric weighs. If it’s heavy, the weight of the skirt may also pull the bodice too long & armhole too deep. You can definitely still use these combinations & fabrics, just make sure to try a muslin first and if needed shorten the bodice and the armhole. We recommend a muslin as the amount you’ll need to shorten could vary anything from 1-3 inches depending on your fabric weight & stretch.
- Light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc. will give a lovely drape and swing.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
- OPTIONAL scrap of fusible stretch interfacing
- Thread to match
- NOTE – Use the higher armscye cut line on the Front and Back Bodice for the sleeveless OPTION, and the lower cut line for the Cap or Lantern Sleeve OPTION.
- Front Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Neckband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Front Skirt – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Skirt- Fabric cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Ruffle: Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Ruffle Back:
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- OR Full Ruffle Back – Fabric cut 3 on fold
- Over Tie – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Under Tie – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Front Waistband – Fabric cut 2
- Sleeveless OPTION: Binding – Fabric cut 2
- Cap Sleeve OPTION: Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lantern Sleeve OPTION:
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold (1x mirror image pair)
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewFlutter Wrap Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful wrap dress has a darted bodice which crosses over with an integrated tie at the waist. There are three sleeve options to choose from; sleeveless, cap sleeve and a billowing gathered lantern sleeve. Add the optional ruffle for a fun finish.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to waist
Skirt length
Cap sleeve length
Lantern sleeve length
Lantern sleeve cuff at top
XXS
34.0
32.0
36.2
16.0
22.2
2.5
15.3
8.0
XS
36.0
34.0
38.2
16.1
22.2
2.6
15.5
8.1
S
38.0
35.0
40.2
16.2
22.2
2.7
15.6
8.2
M
40.0
37.0
42.2
16.5
22.2
3.0
15.7
8.3
L
42.0
39.0
44.2
16.6
22.2
3.1
16.0
8.5
XL
45.0
42.0
47.2
17.0
22.2
3.1
16.1
8.5
XXL
48.0
45.0
50.2
17.2
22.2
3.2
16.2
8.7
3XL
51.0
49.0
53.2
18.2
22.2
3.3
16.3
9.2
4XL
54.0
53.0
56.2
18.6
22.2
3.3
16.5
9.6
5XL
57.0
57.0
59.2
19.2
22.2
3.5
17.0
10.2
Fitting NotesThe dress is designed to fit snugly around the waist area. You can do the dress up tighter or looser depending on how snug a fit you would like. When hemmed, the dress finishes just below the ankle (it does not touch the floor).
Materials and ToolsFabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless with Ruffle OPTION
Sleeveless no Ruffle OPTION
Ruffle OPTIONAL
Cap sleeve OPTION
Lantern sleeve OPTION
XXS
1.75
1.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
XS – M
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
L
2.00
1.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
XL
2.25
1.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
XXL
2.25
1.50
1.00
0.25
1.00
3XL – 4XL
2.50
2.00
1.00
0.25
1.00
5XL
2.75
2.25
1.00
0.25
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Dress OPTIONAL Cap sleeve OPTIONAL Lantern sleeve OPTIONAL Ruffle XXS – 5XL 2-22, 29-31, 38-43 33-35 26-31, 35-37 22-26, 31-35 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Dress OPTIONAL Cap sleeve OPTIONAL Lantern sleeve OPTIONAL Ruffle S 2-11, 13-24, 31, 32-34, 39-41 36-38 28-30, 32-34, 38-41 14-15, 24-28, 34-38 XS-5XL 2-11, 13-24, 31, 32-34, 39-41 36-38 28-30, 32-34, 38-41 14-15, 24-28, 34-38 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Neckband
(cut 1)Front Waistband
(cut 2)Outer Tie
(cut 1)Under Tie
(cut 1)Sleeveless OPTION: Binding (cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
2.0
42.6
3.0
14.1
5.0
38.5
5.0
28.5
1.5
14.6
XS
2.0
43.6
3.0
14.6
5.0
39.5
5.0
29.6
1.5
15.5
S
2.0
44.0
3.0
15.1
5.0
40.2
5.0
30.0
1.5
16.2
M
2.0
44.6
3.0
15.4
5.0
41.0
5.0
31.0
1.5
17.0
L
2.0
45.6
3.0
16.1
5.0
42.0
5.0
32.0
1.5
18.0
XL
2.0
46.2
3.0
16.7
5.0
44.0
5.0
34.0
1.5
19.1
XXL
2.0
47.5
3.0
17.4
5.0
45.0
5.0
35.0
1.5
20.3
3XL
2.0
49.0
3.0
18.4
5.0
47.0
5.0
37.0
1.5
21.5
4XL
2.0
50.0
3.0
19.4
5.0
49.0
5.0
39.3
1.5
23.0
5XL
2.0
52.0
3.0
20.5
5.0
51.0
5.0
41.3
1.5
24.1
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all labels and markings.
- DARTS – Stitch darts onto the Front and Back Bodice pieces.
- BUTTONHOLE – Apply buttonhole to one Front Waistband piece.
- BACK – Lay Back Bodice onto Back Skirt right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press.
- FRONT – Lay Front Bodice right side up, place Front Waistband onto waist edge right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for second Front Bodice and Front Waistband. Place Front Bodice and Front Skirt right sides together along straight waist edge. Pin. Stitch.
- SHOULDERS – Place Front Bodice onto Back Bodice right sides together matching shoulders. Pin. Stitch. Press. Repeat for second Front Bodice and Back Bodice.
- SIDE SEAMS – Place side seams right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Repeat on the other side seam.
- NECKBAND – Mark center of the back neckline and Neckband. Fold Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin. Place Neckband onto Bodice, match center point. Pin. Stitch. Press.
- CAP SLEEVE OPTION – Double Hem OPTION: Fold hem ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch. Press. Pin. Topstitch. Repeat for other Cap Sleeve. Regular Hem OPTION: Finish bottom raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Pin. Topstitch. Repeat for other Cap Sleeve. Stitch gathering stitches. Fold Cap Sleeve in half and mark center of sleeve. Match center of Cap Sleeve to shoulder seam. Pin. Pin end of Sleeve to pattern markings. Gather Cap Sleeve to fit between markings. Pin. Stitch. Press. Fold remaining seam allowance of armscye ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Pin. Topstitch around armscye.
- LANTERN SLEEVE OPTION – Fold Lantern Sleeve right sides together on long straight edge. Pin. Stitch. Turn. Mark center of top edge. Insert Lantern Sleeve into Bodice right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Fold Cuff in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Turn. Fold Cuff in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points of Cuff. Stitch gathering stitches on Lantern Sleeve, then mark quarter points. Match Cuff and Lantern Sleeve and gather Lantern Sleeve to match Cuff. Stitch. Repeat for second Lantern Sleeve.
- SLEEVELESS OPTION – Fold Binding in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin. Stitch. Fold Binding in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Mark quarter points on Binding and armscye. Match Binding to armscye. Pin. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL, Topstitch. Repeat for the other armscye.
- TIES – Fold Over Tie in half lengthwise right sides together, match long edge and one short edge. Pin. Stitch. Turn. Press. Place Over Tie onto Front Waistband, match raw edges. Pin. Stitch. Repeat for the Under Tie.
- WITHOUT OPTIONAL RUFFLE – Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Pin. Topstitch.
- OPTIONAL RUFFLE – Place Front and Back Ruffle right sides together matching short straight edge. Pin. Stitch. Repeat to attach second Front Ruffle to other side of Back Ruffle. OPTIONAL Full Ruffle: Repeat to attach second Back Ruffle to the other side of the first Back Ruffle. Repeat to attach third Back Ruffle to the other side of the second Back Ruffle. Repeat to attach the second Front Ruffle to the other side of the third Back Ruffle. OPTIONAL Ruffle: Mark center of Back Ruffle and Back Skirt. Place Ruffle onto Back Skirt right sides together. Match centers and side seams. OPTIONAL Full Ruffle: Mark quarter points of Ruffle and Skirt. Match quarter points. Gather Ruffle to match Skirt. Pin. Stitch. OPTIONAL HEM – Fold raw edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Pin. Topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ¼ – ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ¼ - ½ inch
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all labels and pattern markings. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins.
0.3Darts
Make sure to use a stretch stitch when stitching your darts.
There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:
If you haven’t done this before, lay the Back Bodice wrong side up on your ironing board or another flat soft surface.
Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.
Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.
Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.
Leave the fabric where it is and repeat with the mirror image other half of the bodice, using the pin holes as your three corner points.
With right sides together, fold the fabric down the centerline of one dart. Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart. Repeat for the second dart. Press both darts towards the center.
TIP – To get a very neat dart on knit fabric, that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.
Repeat for the second dart on the Back Bodice and the darts on both Front Bodice pieces.
1 . Back1.1Place the Back Bodice onto the Back Skirt, right sides together. Pin.
2 . Front2.1Lay the Front Bodice right side up. Place the Front Waistband onto the waist edge, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – If you are adding the Front Waistband with buttonhole to this Front Bodice, match the side of the Front Waistband with buttonhole to the side seam of the Front Bodice.
If you don’t mind which way you do the dress, up, just select either of the Front Waistband pieces.
If you want the dress to fold with the right side over the left as you are wearing it, then pick the Front Waistband with buttonhole as shown.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 to attach the second Front Waistband to the mirror image Front Bodice.
2.4Place the Front Bodice and a Front Skirt right sides together, matching the long straight edge of the Front Waistband to the waist straight edge of the Front Skirt. Pin.
NOTE – Make sure your Front Bodice is the correct way up. The Front Bodice is very similar if you rotate it sideways. If you find your Front Bodice is not the right length to attach to the Skirt, then you may have it rotated. The pattern piece has the shoulder & side seam marked on it. If you are unsure, check the pattern pieces to confirm it is the correct way up. The side seam of the Front Bodice should match the less curved edge of the Front Skirt. The diagonal open edge of the Front Bodice should be on the same side as the curved side of the Skirt.
3 . Shoulders3.1Place a Front Bodice onto the Back Bodice right sides together matching shoulders. Pin.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to attach the second Front Bodice to the other shoulder on the Back Bodice.
4 . Side Seams4.1Place the side seams of the dress right sides together, matching the waist edge on the Back Bodice to approximately the middle of the Front Waistband. Pin.
4.3Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 to stitch the other side seam.
5 . Neckband5.1Find and mark the center of the back neckline.
5.2Find and mark the center of the Neckband.
5.3Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin.
5.4Place the Neckband onto the Bodice, align the raw edges of the Neckband and Bodice right sides together, matching the center points. Align the corner on the raw edge of the Neckband to the middle of the raw edge on the Waistband. Pin.
NOTE – The edges of the Neckband will be stitched into the Ties.
6 . Cap Sleeve OPTION6.0The edges of the Sleeves are intended to be left raw giving the best drape – they are intended to be flowy. Hemming will hamper the drape and the hem will sit stiffer. The hem of the Cap Sleeve can be left raw. If your fabric does not fray, and you would prefer to leave the hem of your Cap Sleeve unhemmed, skip to step 6.7.
There are three hem options to choose from: unhemmed, double turn hem or a regular hem. If you are not hemming your Cap Sleeve, skip to step 6.7. For the double hem OPTION follow step 6.1. For a regular hem OPTION, skip to step 6.4.
6.1DOUBLE HEM OPTION: Fold the Cap Sleeve hem ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
6.2Fold the hem again by ¼ inch. Press. Pin.
6.4REGULAR HEM OPTION: Serge or zigzag the bottom raw edge of the Cap Sleeve.
6.5Fold ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Pin.
6.7You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches between the pattern markings (shown with pins here) on the armscye.
Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Cap Sleeve and stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads!
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.
6.8Fold the Cap Sleeve in half to match the notches and mark the center.
6.9Place the Cap Sleeve onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Cap Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin.
Pin the ends of the Sleeve to the pattern markings on the Bodice.
NOTE – The longer edge from the center of the Cap Sleeve will be matched to the back, and the shorter edge will be matched to the front.
6.10Find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Cap Sleeve until it fits between the markings. Distribute the gathers evenly. Pin.
6.13Fold the Cap Sleeve over, right side facing out. Press the Cap Sleeve away from the Bodice.
7 . Lantern Sleeve OPTION7.1Fold the Lantern Sleeve right sides together matching the long straight edge. Pin.
7.3Turn the Lantern Sleeve right side out. Find and mark the center top edge (opposite the sewn seam).
7.4Insert the Lantern Sleeve into the Bodice, right sides together, matching side seams and matching the center to the shoulder seam. Pin.
7.6Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise right sides together. Pin the long raw edge.
7.8Turn the Cuff right side out.
7.9Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark the quarter points of Cuff.
To do this, pin at the seam, then fold the Cuff in half and mark again with a pin. Fold in half again and mark the quarter points with pins.
TIP – Match your seamlines together. This will ensure your Cuff isn’t twisted. Pin the two layers together.
7.10Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of the Lantern Sleeve.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them later when you go to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads I find I have!
7.11Mark the quarter points on both the Lantern Sleeve and the Cuff raw edges.
Place the Lantern Sleeve inside the Cuff, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
7.12Gather the stitches by pulling gently on both bobbin threads, until the Lantern Sleeve matches the raw edge of the Cuff.
Gently spread out the gathers with your fingers so they are even.
7.14Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.12 for the second Lantern Sleeve.
Skip to step 9.
8 . Sleeveless OPTION8.1Fold the Binding in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.
8.3Fold the Binding in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Find and mark the quarter points.
8.4Find and mark the quarter points of the armscye.
8.5Place the Binding onto the armscye, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Continue pinning the Binding to the armscye.
9 . Ties9.0The placing of the Under Tie and the Over Tie depends on which side you have added the buttonhole. The Under Tie is attached to the Front Waistband without the buttonhole, and the Over Tie is attached to the Front Waistband with the buttonhole.
9.1Fold the Over Tie in half lengthwise right sides together, matching the long edge and one short edge. Pin.
9.3Turn your Over Tie right way out. If you have a favorite method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.
TIP – It is best to use a blunt object like a chopstick.
Open the seam allowance stitched in step 9.2. Insert the chopstick until it reaches the stitching. (If you have serged, fold the seam allowance up and push the chopstick on it.)
Push the Over Tie over the chopstick, pushing the Over Tie all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.
Press.
9.4Place the Over Tie onto the Front Waistband, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – The Over Tie goes onto the Front Waistband with the buttonhole.
NOTE – The end of the Neckband will be pinned into this seam.
9.6Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.5 with the Under Tie.
NOTE – The Under Tie goes onto the Front Waistband without buttonhole.
If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Ruffle, follow below.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Ruffle, skip to step 11.
10 . Without OPTIONAL Ruffle10.0The hem edge of the Skirts without the Ruffle are intended to be left raw giving the best drape – they are intended to be flowy. Hemming will hamper the drape and the hem will sit stiffer. If you do not wish to hem your dress, your Flutter Wrap Dress is finished! However, if you would like to hem the raw edges, follow below. OPTIONAL – If you wish to serge or overlock stitch your hem to finish the edges, do this now.
FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check you are happy with the hem length. If you need it, make sure to allow for a ½ inch hem then make any adjustments.
10.1Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Pin.
TIP – Place the iron onto the hem rather than sliding it back and forth. This will help keep the shape and not stretch the fabric.
10.2Topstitch using either a stretch stitch or twin needle approximately ⅛ inch from the raw edge using a stretch stitch all the way along the hem and up along the Skirt.
TIP – The Front Skirt edge is partly on the bias (diagonal). Some methods of topstitching and fabrics will stretch if you topstitch them (which will affect both the fit and look of the dress). Before stitching, test your fabric by getting a scrap of your fabric and folding it cross the bias (diagonal). Topstitch close to the edge and check whether it stretches the fabric. If it does stretch, try using a longer stitch or a twin needle. Alternatively, if your fabric really does not work well with topstitching the diagonal, stitch along the hem only to hold this in place.
11 . OPTIONAL Ruffle11.1Place a Front and Back Ruffle right sides together matching the short straight edges. Pin.
11.3OPTIONAL Ruffle: Repeat step 11.1 to 11.3 to attach the second Front Ruffle to the other side of the Back Ruffle.
Find and mark the center of the Back Ruffle and Back Skirt.
11.4OPTIONAL Full Ruffle:
Repeat step 11.1 to 11.3 to attach the second Back Ruffle to the first Back Ruffle.
Repeat step 11.1 to 11.3 to attach the third Back Ruffle to the first Back Ruffle.
Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the outer edge of the Ruffle.
11.5OPTIONAL Ruffle: Place the Ruffle onto the Back Skirt, right sides together, matching centers and side seams. Pin.
OPTIONAL Full Ruffle: Find and mark the quarter points of the Ruffle and Skirt. Place the Ruffle onto the Back Skirt, right sides together, matching the quarter points. Find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Ruffle to match the Skirt. Pin.
Remove the gathering stitches. Press.
11.7The Ruffle hem is intended to be left raw, giving the best drape – they are intended to be flowy. Hemming will hamper the drape and the hem will sit stiffer. If you are leaving the Ruffle unhemmed, your Flutter Wrap Dress is finished.
OPTIONAL – If you wish to serge or overlock stitch your Ruffle to finish the raw edges, do this now.
REGULAR HEM OPTION – Fold the raw edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Pin.
TIP – Place the iron onto the hem rather than sliding it back and forth. This will help keep the shape and not stretch the fabric.
11.8Topstitch using either a stretch stitch or twin needle approximately ⅛ inch from the edge using a stretch stitch all the way along the hem.
TIP – The top front edge is on the bias (diagonal). Some methods of topstitching and fabrics will stretch if you topstitch them (which will affect both the fit and look of the dress). Before stitching, test your fabric by getting a scrap of your fabric and folding it cross the bias (diagonal). Topstitch close to the edge and check whether it stretches the fabric. If it does stretch, try using a longer stitch or a twin needle. Alternatively, if your fabric really does not work well with topstitching the diagonal, stitch along the hem only to hold this in place.
Your Flutter Wrap Dress is finished.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Flutter Wrap Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpflutterwrapdress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewFlutter Wrap Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful wrap dress has a darted bodice which crosses over with an integrated tie at the waist. There are three sleeve options to choose from; sleeveless, cap sleeve and a billowing gathered lantern sleeve. Add the optional ruffle for a fun finish.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to waist
Skirt length
Cap sleeve length
Lantern sleeve length
Lantern sleeve cuff at top
XXS
34.0
32.0
36.2
16.0
22.2
2.5
15.3
8.0
XS
36.0
34.0
38.2
16.1
22.2
2.6
15.5
8.1
S
38.0
35.0
40.2
16.2
22.2
2.7
15.6
8.2
M
40.0
37.0
42.2
16.5
22.2
3.0
15.7
8.3
L
42.0
39.0
44.2
16.6
22.2
3.1
16.0
8.5
XL
45.0
42.0
47.2
17.0
22.2
3.1
16.1
8.5
XXL
48.0
45.0
50.2
17.2
22.2
3.2
16.2
8.7
3XL
51.0
49.0
53.2
18.2
22.2
3.3
16.3
9.2
4XL
54.0
53.0
56.2
18.6
22.2
3.3
16.5
9.6
5XL
57.0
57.0
59.2
19.2
22.2
3.5
17.0
10.2
Materials and Tools- Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however best results & fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric.
- Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
- The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.
- A fabric with 4 way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more.
- This is a great pattern for combining different fabrics and looks. Most will work great; however, some need checking. Fabric on the bodice with above 45% stretch can mean the bodice is stretched (resulting in the bodice being too long and armhole too deep). We would recommend 40-45% stretch for the bodice only. You can use a higher percentage stretch on the skirt if you wish, however make sure to take note of how your fabric weighs. If it’s heavy, the weight of the skirt may also pull the bodice too long & armhole too deep. You can definitely still use these combinations & fabrics, just make sure to try a muslin first and if needed shorten the bodice and the armhole. We recommend a muslin as the amount you’ll need to shorten could vary anything from 1-3 inches depending on your fabric weight & stretch.
- Light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc. will give a lovely drape and swing.
- Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sleeveless with Ruffle OPTION
Sleeveless no Ruffle OPTION
Ruffle OPTIONAL
Cap sleeve OPTION
Lantern sleeve OPTION
XXS
1.75
1.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
XS – M
2.00
1.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
L
2.00
1.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
XL
2.25
1.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
XXL
2.25
1.50
1.00
0.25
1.00
3XL – 4XL
2.50
2.00
1.00
0.25
1.00
5XL
2.75
2.25
1.00
0.25
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL scrap of fusible stretch interfacing
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.