Women's Patsy Party Dress

• Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk.
• Mark where the zipper will end on the Center Back skirt pieces. Find the center back seam (the straight edge) and measure down 9 inches for sizes XXS-XL, 8 inches for size XXL-3XL and 7.5 inches for sizes 4XL-5XL and mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch the center front skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the two center backs and four front and back side pieces in the direction of the arrows.

Lay out your center front bodice. With right sides together, lay the side front bodice to the center front bodice, matching up the pattern markings.

Pin at the bottom raw edge, at the apex of the side front curve and the top of the armscye. 

Ease along the curve and pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

Wrong side facing up, press open the seam allowance.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam.

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.3 to attach the other side front bodice piece.

With the right sides together, pin the side back bodice to the side front bodice, matching up the pattern markings.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Wrong side facing up, press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.5 to 1.7 to attach the other side back bodice piece.

With right sides together, pin the center back bodice to the side back bodice, matching up the pattern markings.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Wrong sides facing up, press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.9 to 1.11 to attach the other center back piece.

With right sides together, pin the center front lining pieces together along the straight edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

With wrong sides facing up, press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.12 to assemble the rest of the bodice lining together.

Interlining is a sturdy fabric that is constructed of compactly woven herringbone twill. It is used to provide structure and support in garments such as ball gowns and corsets.

Cut ⅓ inch off each of the center back bodice outer seams (shown in blue). This will help reduce bulk when attaching the zip.

For the boned bodice without interlining, skip to step 4. 

For a bodice without boning or interlining, skip to step 5.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.12 to assemble the bodice interlining pieces together.

NOTE – Your center back outer seams will be ⅓ inch shorter than your main fabric.

Lay the outer bodice wrong sides facing up. With wrong sides facing up, place the Interlining bodice on top of the outer bodice.

Pin together along all outer edges.

Baste all the way around the outer edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Boning is perfect for this strapless gown as it helps the bodice maintain its shape and stay wrinkle-free. You will need to add boning end caps to prevent the boning from digging into you or coming out through the fabric.

You will be adding boning to the lining sewn in step 2. For a bodice without boning, skip to step 5.

If your boning is curved due to the way it was packaged, you may want to flatten it out before sewing it to the garment. You can do this by ironing the boning while it is still inside the casing.

TIP – You may also want to use a heavy object, such as a book, to help flatten out the boning prior to sewing.

With right sides together, pin the bodice to the lining along the top edge. 

NOTE – The images shown in these steps don’t have interlining added to the bodice. If you have added interlining to your bodice piece treat it as one bodice piece.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the cut boning from the casing for the ‘across top of center front bodice’ piece.

Open the bodice and lining so wrong sides are facing up. Pin the boning casing to the lining, directly under the stitched seam allowance and in the center of the bodice.

NOTE – Your casings will be shorter than your pattern pieces, to allow for the seam allowance.

Stitch directly over the casing stitches, along the long edges, starting ½ inch in from the end of the casing. This leaves the ends of the casing free to add the boning caps in step 4.7. 

Go slowly and check you have sewn on top of these stitches only, otherwise you won’t be able to fit the boning back into the casing.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 to attach the other boning casings, placing them as follows:

• Down Center Front Bodice – directly on top of the Center Front seam allowance.
• Down sides of Center Front Bodice – measure 2 inches in from the end of the top boning, measure 1.5inches from the center front bodice seam (at the waist) in towards the center boning. Place the casing directly under the top boning piece. See diagram – boning placement is indicated in red. If you are larger busted and need additional support, add an additional boning piece to each center front side boning, closer to the seam. You’ll then need an additional 4 end caps. 
• Side Front Bodice and Side Back Bodice – directly on top of the seam allowances.

Insert the top boning into the top casing.

Place a boning cap on each end over the boning/casing.

Hand stitch through the hole of the end cap, and through the boning, to keep the boning and end cap in place. Sew a few stitches to secure this on each end.

Repeat steps 4.7 to 4.8 for the rest of the boning pieces.

NOTE – The end caps at the top of the three center bodice pieces will butt up closely to the boning running across the top center. This gives it extra support and will help avoid the boning from collapsing.

If you aren’t adding gathered straps, skip to step 6.

If you are using fabric that will fray, I recommend finishing the shorter raw edges. You can sew a rolled hem or alternatively turn the edges over ¼ inch, press, fold over another ¼ inch and topstitch. Remember when pressing to use a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.

Fold each of the shorter fabric edges in towards the middle, meeting in the middle.

Fold again so the folded edges are touching, and all raw edges are tucked inside. 

Your strap piece will now be folded into a quarter.

Pinch each of the short ends of the straps together. Baste in place.

TIP – Use a contrasting thread for your gathering stitches. This makes it easier to see when you are gathering and when removing these stitches. 

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Pin the right side of the strap to the right side of the main bodice, matching a gathered edge to the top of the center front armscye. Match the other gathered edge to the seam allowance on the side back piece.

Baste the strap to the bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 to attach the other strap.

With right sides together, pin the bodice to the lining along the armscye, across the top edge and down the other armscye.

NOTE – If you added boning to your bodice, you have already sewn across the top of the bodice and will only need to pin along the armscye on each side, as shown in this picture.

NOTE – If you have added gathered shoulder straps, check that the straps are laying down towards the waist to avoid them getting caught in the seam allowance.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the corners at the top of the bodice to reduce bulk.

Turn the bodice right side out and press.

NOTE – If you have added gathered shoulder strap, check that your tulle can handle the heat from the iron before pressing.

The skirt is made of 7 panels to create a beautiful full circle skirt. Follow the order below to assemble the panels together. The middle back panels are not sewn together until after the zipper is sewn in. Take care while sewing to not pull or stretch the skirt along the top edges or it will not fit to the bodice later on.

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the skirt panels right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach all the panels together. Leave the two center back panels open. Skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides facing up), pin a center back panel to a side panel.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 so that all the skirt panels are sewn together in the following order: center back to side panel, that side panel to a side panel, that side panel to center front panel, that center front panel to side panel, that side panel to the center back side panel. Leave the two center back panels open. 

NOTE – The center back panels are not sewn together until after the zipper is sewn.

If you aren’t adding a skirt overlay, skip to step 9.

You will be attaching all four rectangle pieces together, along the shorter edges, using a French seam. This long piece will then be attached to the skirt.

With wrong sides together (right sides facing up), pin two overlay rectangles together at one short side.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press, using a very low setting or pressing cloth, as flat as you can. Try make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press.

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for the second and third rectangle until you have one long rectangular piece. You will be joining 3 edges.

With your long rectangular piece facing right sides up, sew two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the skirt overlay.

Gather the skirt overlay by pulling gently on both bobbin threads, until it matches the width of the top of the skirt.

Spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so that it is gathers evenly.

Lay your skirt right side facing up. Place your skirt overlay right side facing up on top of the skirt, matching up the top edges. Pin together. Both your layers should be right sides out.

Baste the overlay to the skirt using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the outer bodice and the skirt right sides together and pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 9.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Lay your skirt piece right sides up. Lay your lined bodice flat with wrong sides facing. Match the bottom edge of the bodice (shown here with interlining sewn onto the bodice piece) to the top edge of the skirt, matching the bodice princess seams with the skirt seams.

TIP – While pinning and sewing, keep the bodice on top, and the skirt underneath. Sew slowly and ease the skirt around underneath the bodice as you sew.  Take care for the skirt not to pull against the sewing machine as you sew. You are stitching a straight edge to a curved edge here. It is extremely easy (even with stay stitching on the skirt pieces) to pull it out of shape. If you accidentally do stretch your skirt while sewing (or it has stretched in a previous step) and the skirt is too big for your bodice, adjust the side seams of the skirt so it fits to the bodice then continue.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you have attached a skirt overlay, remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of each thread.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

With wrong side facing up, press the bodice lining under ½ inch along the waist seam and along the back seams.

Press the skirt waist raw edges up towards the bodice.

We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the bodice.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the center back skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 10.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zip. If you use a regular zip, or don’t install the invisible zip correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. 

Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip your invisible zip and place it teeth face down onto your ironing board.

When the zip is closed the teeth of the zip curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew.

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zip. The zip will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip a little to make it easier to attach.

With wrong sides facing up, press a ½ inch seam allowance from the top of your bodice (main fabric and lining) and the center back skirt panel and skirt overlay (if you have sewn this).

Repeat for the other side of the dress.

With your dress right sides facing up, flip your bodice lining up out of the way. You’ll be attaching the zip to the main bodice (not the lining) and skirt and skirt overlay (if sewn).

Unfold the seam allowance. With the right zipper tape on the left side of the dress, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your bodice), line up the zipper with the top of the bodice. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the main bodice and lining join. Pin in place.

TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zip on the correct side of the dress, and that they are facing right sides together. 

TIP – If you have sewn a skirt overlay, check that the fabric hasn’t moved and is caught in the seam allowance.

Shorten your zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 16 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zip to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line up the zipper teeth in the left side groove of your foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.  

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zip to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.

Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zip can close easily.

Place a pin in the zipper tape where the bodice meets the skirt and at the end of the zip where your stitching ends. This will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when you sew it to the opposite side of the dress.

Open the zip. Repeat steps 10.3 and 10.4 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

Trim the excess off the top of the zipper.

TIP – Check you can close your zip properly before moving onto the next step.

Flip your bodice lining back down over the top of your bodice so right sides are facing together. You will be sandwiching the zipper between the bodice and the lining. 

Pin.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching ¼ inch in from the raw edge. Remember to keep the bodice lining waist seam allowance folded up and check that the skirt waist seam allowance is folded up and caught between the bodice and the lining. Be careful not to sew over the zipper teeth.

Repeat for the opposite side of the bodice.

Turn the bodice lining over to the inside of your dress. Your bodice lining seams will now be enclosed.

The bodice seam allowance is now finished enclosing the raw edges. You’ll now finish the skirt seam allowance of the zip.

With the dress wrong sides facing up and the zip open, take the seam allowance (main fabric and skirt overlay only – not the zip) and fold it down under itself so the raw edge meets the sewn seam. Pin to the zipper tape and press.

TIP – This is a very narrow section and can be tricky. If you have them, use dress maker’s pins/glass head pins (not plastic head pins). You can press over these types of pins which will make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, stitching as close to the folded edge as possible.

Repeat steps 10.9 to 10.10 for the other side of the skirt zipper.

You’ll be sewing the main fabric center back skirt seam separately to the center back skirt overlay seam. This will allow the overlay to sit freely on top of the skirt.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back as close to the zipper as you can. Repeat for the skirt overlay. Then, skip to step 12.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the skirt back together below the zip. It’s slightly different to the previous French seam as we must first detach the seam allowance from the zip. Follow along below.

Turn your dress wrong way out. Working with the main fabric only, clip into the center back skirt seam allowance, just under the zipper stitching. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.

TIP – Aim to cut approx. 1-2mm below the zip stitching and approximately 1-2mm away from the seam. If you snip too far, you will have a hole so err on the side of caution. You can always come back and snip a little more if you find your seam isn’t lying flat.

Turn the dress right side out. Move your skirt overlay out the way (if you’ve sewn this) and pin the center back skirt panels together (wrong sides together).

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

Turn wrong side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Pin and stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. 

TIP – You want to start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. Use your zipper foot to get really close. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper downwards while wearing the finished garment.

Repeat steps 11.2 to 11.5 to sew the skirt overlay center back seams together using a French seam.

Lay your dress wrong side facing up.

Pin along the bodice lining folded seam allowance, catching the skirt raw edges.

NOTE – The images shown are to illustrate how to complete this step. The bodice in the photos is open at the back, however your bodice will be closed after you’ve inserted the invisible zip in step 10 above.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the bodice lining to the skirt seam allowance. Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the skirt to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.
Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between 1/8 – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch. 

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

If you would like to add horsehair braid to your skirt hem, skip to step 14. 

If you are using fabric for your skirt overlay that will fray, I recommend finishing the raw edges. You can sew a rolled hem or alternatively turn the edges over ¼ inch, press, fold over another ¼ inch and topstitch. Remember when pressing to use a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.

Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds. 

Then topstitch in place by stitching close to the folded edge. 

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the skirt as much as possible so that it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your evening gown a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline.

If you are using fabric for your skirt overlay that will fray, I recommend finishing the raw edges. You can sew a rolled hem or alternatively turn the edges over ¼ inch, press, fold over another ¼ inch and topstitch. Remember when pressing to use a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.

Lay your skirt wrong sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as you can.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your evening gown a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem stitch foot you can sew the hem by machine.