Women's Phoebe Party Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the waist panels won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching out towards each side seam, in the direction of the arrows.

Stay stitch the Center Back Skirt pieces at the waist following the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch a Side Front and Back Skirt pair at the waist following the direction of the arrows. 

Repeat for the other pair.

Staystitch the Center Bust (main and lining pair) pieces along the neckline and the side bust seam line, in the direction of the arrows.

Repeat for the other pair.

Skip to step 3 if you aren’t adding interlining to your bodice or follow the step below to add interlining. This step is the same for the bodice with or without modesty panels.

Interlining is a sturdy fabric that is constructed of compactly woven herringbone twill. It is used to provide structure and support in garments such as ball gowns and corsets.

Place the Lining Back Waistband and the Interlining Back Waistband, wrong sides together. Pin.

Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

 TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the Front Waistband, Back Bodice, and each Center Bust and Side Bust pieces.

NOTE – It is not necessary to add Interlining to the optional Modesty Panels (Center Front Panel and Side Panels)

If adding modesty panels into the bodice skip to step 4. 

NOTE – We are showing how to assemble the bodice with optional interlining, however, the steps are the same with or without interlining.

Place the main Center Bust and the main Side Bust, right sides together. Pin at the bottom raw edge, at the apex of the front curve and the top raw edge. 

Ease along the curve and pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

NOTE – You can clip through the stay stitching.

Press the seam allowance open.

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Bodice.

Place the Front Bodice onto the Back Bodice, right sides together. Pin along the shoulder seam.

NOTE – Check that you are matching the correct Back Bodice to the correct Front Bodice piece. 

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.6 with the other main Center Bust, Side Bust and Back Bodice pieces.

TIP – If you have added Interlining, you may find the shoulder seam is a bit bulky when sewing the Front and Back Bodice together. Trim the seam allowance of the shoulder seam to help it to lay flat and reduce bulk.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 with the Center Bust, Side Bust and Back Bodice lining pieces.

Place the main Bodice and Bodice lining the right sides together. Pin along the neckline and armscye edges.

Stitch along both edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Trim the seam allowance on either side of the shoulder seam to help reduce bulk.

Turn the Bodice right side out and press.

If you are not adding optional bust cups skip to step 3.13. If you are adding optional bust cups, follow below.

OPTIONAL BUST CUPS: Place the Bodice right sides facing up and insert the bust cup into the bodice. Check the position of the bust cup. Pin to the lining/interlining.

Hand stitch it to the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the cup, and at each end to the lining/interlining.

Repeat for the other side of the Bodice.

If you have sewn the plunge neckline bodice skip to step 5. 

NOTE – Our photos show the bodice with optional interlining, however, the steps are the same with or without interlining.

Place the main Center Bust and the main Side Bust, right sides together. Pin at the bottom raw edge, at the apex of the front curve and the top raw edge. 

Ease along the curve and pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip along the curve into the seam allowance. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it. This will help avoid puckering and help shape the curve at the bust line.

NOTE – You can clip through the staystitching.

Press the seam allowance open.  

TIP – Use a tailors ham to press the curved seam. A tailor’s ham is a pressing tool that helps smooth out curves. You can also use a rolled up towel to help smooth out the curves.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Bodice.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the other main Center Bust and Side Bust pieces.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the Center Bust and Side Bust lining pieces.

Fold the Center Panel in half, wrong sides together, matching the two shorter edges. Pin.

Baste all the way around the raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Pin the Center Panel to the Center Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Center Panel to the pattern marking on the Center Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Center Panel waist edge.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the main Bodice and Bodice lining right sides together. Pin together along the neckline edge.

NOTE – The Center Panel will now be sandwiched between the main and lining Bodice pieces.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Bodice right side out and press.

Repeat steps 4.8 to 4.12 attaching the other side of the Center Panel to the opposite main and lining Bodice pieces.

Your main and lining Bodice pieces will now be joined together by the center modesty panel and along the neckline.

If you are not adding optional bust cups skip to step 4.15. If you are adding optional bust cups, follow below.

OPTIONAL BUST CUPS: Place the Bodice right sides facing up and insert the bust cup into the bodice. Check the position of the bust cup. Pin to the lining/interlining.

Hand stitch it to the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the cup, and at each end to the lining/interlining.

Repeat for the other cup.

Repeat step 4.6 to 4.7 for the Side Panels.

Pin the Side Panel to the Main Side Bust, right sides together, matching the folded edge of the Side Panel to the pattern marking on the Side Bust. Continue pinning along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The bottom edges will not match to the Side Panel waist edge.

NOTE – You will be pinning the Side Panel to the main Side Bust. Do not pin it to the lining/interlining layer.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 4.15 to 4.17 to attach the other Side Panel to the other side of the Bodice.

You are going to use a burrito roll method to enclose the main and lining. With the main Bodice facing right side up, grab the main and lining side seam (either side) and roll the Bodice towards the other side seam. Continue rolling it tightly until you reach the other side seam.

Take the Bodice lining of the side seam you have rolled towards and flip it over the rolled up piece so that you can match the unrolled lining side seam to the unrolled main side seam.
Pin.

NOTE – Check the Side Panel is out of the way and facing toward the middle of the Bodice. You will be stitching through all three layers (or four if you have added interlining).

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Reach into the Bodice and pull the rolled-up part out, then continue pulling until the Bodice is right side out. Press. 

Repeat steps 4.19 to 4.21 for the other side of the Bodice.

Place the main Back Bodice onto the Side Panel, right sides together. Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Back Bodice lining onto the main Back Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Side Panel will now be sandwiched between the main and lining Back Bodice pieces.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn the Back Bodice right side out. Press.

Repeat steps 4.23 to 4.27 to attach the other main and lining Back Bodice to the other Side Panel.

You will be following the same burrito roll method as step 4.19. Take one side end of the Back Bodice and roll it towards the opposite Back Bodice.

Continue rolling until the Back Lining can be pinned to the Back Bodice with the right side together and the rolled-up bodice in between them. 

TIP – You will need to roll the bodice as tightly as possible because it can get bulky. It helps to fold the rolled-up section down into the middle of the bodice so that it is not in the way when you sew the next seam.

Flip the Back Bodice lining over the rolled up Bodice, right sides together, matching the main Back Bodice. 

Pin the Front and Back shoulder seams together (main and lining). Then continue pinning the Back Bodice lining and main Back Bodice piece together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the corners to prevent bulk at the shoulder seam.

Reach inside and pull the Bodice right sides out.  

Press.

Repeat steps 4.29 to 4.33 for the other side of the Back Bodice.

This step is the same for either Bodice option.

Place a main Back Waistband onto the main Front Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Front and Back Waistband pieces the correct way. Both are labelled top and bottom. As the pieces are not quite rectangular in shape it is important to make sure you have them oriented correctly when stitching them together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open. 

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to attach the other main Back Waistband to the other side of the main Front Waistband.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 to attach the Back and Front Waistband lining pieces.

Place the Bodice onto the main Waistband, right sides together. Pin.

TIP – Check to make sure that everything is lined up correctly before basting together in the next step. The Waistband side seams will match up the Front and Back Bodice, or with the points on the Side Panels (if added).

Baste using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Typically when basting, a smaller seam allowance would be used. Using a ½ inch seam allowance at this step will help ensure the seams points are lined up precisely. A basting stitch will allow the stitches to be removed later if they are visible. 

Place the Waistband lining onto the Bodice, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The Bodice will be sandwiched in between the main and lining Waistbands.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching on top of the basting stitch from step 5.7. 

NOTE – If you added modesty panels, this stitch line needs to be exactly at the ½ inch seam allowance in order to intersect your modesty panels and create the exact V shape.

Flip the Waistband down so that it is right side out and press the seam.

Pull out any visible basting stitches.  

If you are sewing the maxi length skirt with optional godets, please follow step 7. 

The skirt is made up of seven pieces. Starting at the back, the order of the panels is: Center Back Skirt, Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt.

NOTE – You may notice that the Skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as it is sewn to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that the hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching the seam, lay the skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Centre Back Skirt and Side Back Skirt together. Pin down the side seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the Side Back Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Center Front Skirt, Side Front Skirt, Side Back Skirt, and then Center Back Skirt. Press all seams to the side. Leave the Centre Back open. Then skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place a Center Back Skirt onto a Side Back Skirt, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach a Center Front Skirt to the Side Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to the Center Front Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach a Side Front Skirt to a Side Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 to attach a Side Back Skirt to the Center Back Skirt, repeating the French seam step.

NOTE – The Center Back Skirt pieces are not sewn together until after the zipper is installed.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

The optional godets can only be added to the maxi length skirt. If you have sewn the skirt without godets, skip to step 8.

The skirt has seven skirt pieces and three godet pieces that are attached together. You will be attaching the Center Back Godet to each Center Back Skirt, then attaching a Side Back Godet to the other sides of the Center Back Skirt. Then you attach the Side Back Godets to a Side Back Skirt, the Side Back Skirt to a Side Front Skirt and finally each Side Front Skirt to either side of the Center Front Skirt.

The order in which the Skirt pieces are sewn together is vital to getting precise points at the top of each Godet. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – We do not recommend using a serger for this step. You will need a regular sewing machine to achieve the crisp points for the godets.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place the Center Back Godet onto one of the Center Back Skirts, wrong sides together (right sides outwards). Pin

Start stitching ½ inch from the top of the Center Back Godet, down to the bottom raw edge, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Stitching from ½ inch down will help to get a precise point at the top of the Godet when we attach it to the Side Back Skirt.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice

Turn the wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – Press your seam allowance to one side first.  This makes it a bit easier to get that seam line right in the center of the fold.  

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to attach the Center Back Godet to the other Center Back Skirt.

NOTE – The center back seam above the Center Back Godet will be stitched when installing the zipper.

Flip one Center Back Skirt over the other so the wrong sides are together (right sides facing out). Starting from the stitching, pin together up to the zipper marking.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You are only stitching through the Center Back Skirts. Do not stitch the Center Back Godet. Carefully move it out of the way so it won’t be stitched into the seam. 

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn wrong sides out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the center of the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Starting from the previous stitching, pin together up to the zipper marking. Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge, then press.

From the wrong side, stitch a line of zig zag stitches across the unstitched top of the Center Back Godet. Trim the excess.

NOTE – Do not stitch through the Center Back Skirt pieces. You are only stitching across the point of the Center Back Godet.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.12 to attach the Side Back Godets to the other side of each of the Center Back Skirts.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.11 to attach the Side Back Godets to the Side Back Skirts. 

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.11 to attach each Side Back Skirt to each Side Front Skirt.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.11 to attach each Side Front Skirt to each side of the Center Front Skirt.

The skirt will now be one full piece.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the Skirt from center back seam to center back seam.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

This step is the same for both skirt options.

Place the bottom edge of the main Waistband onto the top edge of the Skirt, right sides together. Match the side seams of the Waistband to the seam between the Side Front Skirt and Side Back Skirt. 

Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Skirt, until the Skirt matches up with the Waistband.

Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering threads.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

Fold the Waistband lining ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Wrong sides facing up, fold the Waistband lining down onto the Skirt. 

Make sure that the raw edges of the Skirt are facing up towards the Waistband. This will ensure they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband lining.

Pin.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Waistband lining to the Skirt. The Waistband lining will be folded under ½ inch, with the stitching along the folded edge.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the Waistband to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 8.5 to 8.6 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pattern weight so that the tail is now hidden inside. 

FIT CHECK – We recommend doing a fit check at this point to check the fit of the bodice.

• If you measure at the top of your size range, the dress should fit exactly. 
• If you measured ½ inch or more from the top of your size range, you may need to adjust at the back seam before continuing. 
• We recommend trying the dress on now and pinning the center back seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. 
• If it fits as you wish, continue. 
• If it is loose, adjust the pins to make it tighter, keeping them parallel to the seam allowance from the waist down to the hem. You will need to take an even amount all the way down so that it fits correctly. Double and triple check you are happy with the fit, then trim the excess fabric, making sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance on each side. Continue.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge both back edges of the center back skirts. Do not remove any seam allowance, just serge to finish. Then continue with step 9.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished bodice will be too big. To help with this, we’ve made a short video. 

Read through the steps below, then watch the video here. Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.

Unzip the invisible zipper. Place it teeth face down onto your ironing board. 

When the zipper is closed, the teeth of the zipper will curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make it easier to sew. 

I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat. 

NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zip a little to make it easier to attach.

Press the ½ inch seam allowance along each raw edge of the Waistband and Skirt.

NOTE – For the Skirt with godets, press the ½ inch seam on the part of the Skirt that has been left open for the zipper.

Unfold the seam allowance. With the dress right side up, place the zipper with the teeth side down onto the dress.

Line the zipper teeth up with the folded seam allowance so that the zipper stop is lined up with the top of the Waistband seam. Pin the left side of the zipper to the dress.

TIP – Take a moment to check that the zipper and dress are placed right sides together and that the zipper is on the correct side of the dress.

TIP – Add Wonder Under Tape to the zipper instead of using pins. This will help hold it in place.

Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the recommended zipper length. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zipper to stop it from opening below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper off. 

TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. You stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zipper to the other. 

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Line up the zipper teeth on the left side groove of the foot. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down. 

REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper all the way down.

Close the zipper and place a pin on the right zipper tape where the bottom of the stitching is. This pin will ensure that your zipper stays lined up when the right side of the dress is sewn. 

Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.4 with the right side of the zipper tape on the right side of the dress.

It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.

Fold the top of the zipper down on each side and hand stitch in place.

TIP – If the zipper is longer than needed, hand sew around the zipper to make a new zipper stop. Then trim the zipper down to the length needed.

TIP – Check your zipper can close correctly before continuing onto the next step.

Fold the seam allowance on the side of the zipper under on itself so the raw edge is hidden, pin and press.

This is a very narrow section of seam allowance, so this can be a bit tricky. If you have them, pin using dress maker’s pins or glass head pins (not plastic head pins). That way you can press with the pins in place to make it easier. Make sure to put a pressing cloth or clean tea towel over the pins before pressing so they don’t mark your iron.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, as close to the folded edges as possible. 

Repeat steps 9.7 to 9.8 for the other side of the zipper.

If you have sewn the Maxi Skirt with Godets skip to step 11.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, finish the raw edges of the Skirt centre back seam, without taking any seam allowance off. Place the Skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back to close the skirt under the zipper. Then, skip to your preferred hem, step 11, 12, or 13.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do a French seam to stitch the Skirt together below the zipper. It’s slightly different than the previous French seam as the seam allowance below the zipper must be detached. Follow along below.

Clip into each side of the seam allowance, just below where the zipper stitching ends. 

TIP – Clip as close to the stitching and fold as possible without cutting into it. Aim for approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm below the stitching and snip approximately ⅛ inch / 1-2 mm away from the fold. If the snip is too far, there will be a hole under the zipper, so err on the side of caution. If the seam isn’t lying flat, it can be snipped more. 

Place the wrong sides of the skirt together and bring the seam allowance to the right side of the Skirt. Pin them together making sure the wrong sides are together and the right sides are facing outwards. 

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – The seams are trimmed here so that when they are encased in the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the Skirt wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so the edges can’t be seen (a French seam). 

TIP – Start stitching as close to the bottom of the zipper stitching as possible. The goal is to make the seam look continuous from the zipper to the hem when the garment is being worn. A zipper foot will allow the stitches to get really close to the bottom of the zipper. 

This hemming option is not suitable for the maxi dress length with godets. If you are sewing this option, I recommend sewing a horsehair braid hem or blind stitch hem. Follow step 12 or 13 for this option.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side.  Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!

Adding horsehair braid will add structure to your hemline. If you are not adding optional horsehair braid and would prefer a blind stitch hem, skip to step 13.

Lay the skirt right sides facing up. Match the horsehair braid edge to the raw edge of the skirt.

Pin in place.

Topstitch along the bottom raw edge as close to the edge of the horsehair as possible.

Fold the hem by the width of the horsehair braid over to the wrong side. Pin in place.

Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!

As your hem will be almost invisible, this hemming option will give your dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand, or by machine, if your machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot. Follow below to stitch by machine.

Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Fold the hem under the fabric (towards the right side), so that just ¼ inch of the hem is showing. Pin.

Slide the fabric under the foot with the folded edge resting against the inside edge of the right side of the foot. 

With the blind hem stitch selected, start stitching, keeping the fold in line with the inside edge of the foot.

NOTE – Line up the hem, so when the needle moves to the left, it is able to just catch a thread or two of the skirt fabric.  

TIP – This stitch is best done with thread that matches the fabric very closely, with a fresh, sharp needle. It is very helpful to practice this technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your gorgeous skirt.

Your Phoebe Party Dress is now finished!