Women's Sofia Shirt Dress

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric. 

• For Maxi length skirts, transfer all buttonhole markings. 
• For Midi length skirts, skip the last 2 buttonholes markings on the skirt (the buttons should not go all the way to the hem but stop just before it). 
• For Knee length skirts, skip the last buttonhole marking on the skirt.
• Mark button placement using the center point of each buttonhole.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the following pieces:

• Upper collar x1
• Under collar x1
• Cuff x2
• Bodice facing to be applied to the Front edges of the Front Bodice x2
• Skirt facing to be applied to the front edges of the center Front skirt pieces x2

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing pieces before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each facing piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the yoke to avoid wrinkles. I suggest you do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric first. 

OPTIONAL Bias Binding

If you are following the sewing machine option and doing the sleeveless version, you will need bias tape to bind the armhole in step 6.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – You do not need bias tape.

REGULAR SEWING MACHING OPTION – If you have purchased ready-made bias tape, check it is 1 inch wide when completely unfolded.

If you made your own bias tape by cutting strips on the diagonal, we are going to fold and press as if we were making single fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). 

• Fold one bias strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press well.
• Open the central fold Back out and fold each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden. Press.
• You now have ½ inch single folded bias tape. The raw edges should be folded into the middle.

If you get stuck, download our free bias tape tutorial and follow the instructions for ‘single fold bias tape’. 

NOTE – You can also use narrower bias tape. This will give a very professional finish; however, it will also be quite fiddly to attach. The narrowest bias tape I would recommend would be ½ inch when unfolded (¼ inch when single folded).

Stay Stitching

We are going to be stay stitching the neckline to help prevent it from stretching out while we are working with the cut pieces.  

NOTE – Staystitching is a permanent line of stitches around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we get the collar on.

Staystitch the front necklines, using a regular length straight stitch, in the direction of the arrows. It won’t be removed later so make sure to stay just inside the ½ inch seam allowance.

Staystitch the Back neckline in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay the Back piece wrong side up on your ironing board.  

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric of the Back down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart.  Instead, leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching.  Check the knot is very secure, then trim the threads.  

Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the Bodice.  

Repeat steps 1.1 and 1.2 for the second dart on the Back Bodice, and both bust and waist darts on the Front Bodice pieces.  

Press your bust darts down and your waist darts to the outer edges.

Fold Back Bodice right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the box pleat.  

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings. 

Finger press the pleat flat along this fold, to give a nice crease in the center of the pleat.  

With wrong side facing up, open your Back Bodice and flatten the pleat, aligning the crease you made in the last step with your pin.  This will center your inverted box pleat along the Back Bodice.  

Add additional pins on either side of the original pin, to secure the pleat in place.

Baste your box pleat with ¼ inch seam allowance.  

NOTE – A basting stitch is a long straight stitch used to hold something in place temporarily.  This will be replaced in the next step when we attach the Back yoke.  

TIP – If your machine does not have a basting stitch option, set it to the longest straight stitch you can.  There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of this stitch line, as it is temporary.  

With right sides facing up, press your box pleat flat.  

TIP – You can also press about an inch down your pleat, for a nice crisp pleat.  This will also help when you attach your yoke in the next step.  

Fold each of the Back yoke pieces, wrong sides together, and place a pin in the center of the straight bottom edge (not the neck edge).  

TIP – Place a pin in the center of the inverted box pleat on your Back Bodice piece. This will help align the Back yoke center to the center of the Back Bodice piece.

Lay one yoke piece onto the Back Bodice, right sides together, matching center marks.  

Pin the rest of this yoke to your Back Bodice using the ½ inch seam line, not the raw edge.

Flip these pieces over, so the Back Bodice is wrong side up.

Lay your second yoke, right side facing down, on top of this, matching the centers.  

Using the ½ inch seam line again, pin the rest of this yoke along the top edge.  

You are creating a sandwich that consists of yoke facing up, Back Bodice facing down, then yoke facing down.

Sew along this edge, through all three pieces, with a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance in half and flip both yoke pieces up. 

Press both yoke pieces away from Back Bodice.  

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch along bottom edge of yoke.

Lay your front pieces, checking correct Front Bodice piece is on the correct shoulder, onto the Back piece, right sides together. Pin in place leaving out the outer edge Back yoke piece.

We’re going to enclose the shoulder seams from the inside out using the burrito method.  It’s called this as everything gets rolled up inside the yokes like a burrito.

NOTE – If you have difficulty visualizing this, skip ahead to step 4.5 and have a look at what it will look like when complete, then come Back and continue.

Do not include the outer yoke in the roll – flip this piece down towards the bottom. 

Starting at the bottom edge of the Bodice roll the front and the Back shirt pieces together tightly up towards the shoulder seams.

Ensure the shirt is rolled tightly enough that you can flip the outer yoke on top and match up the shoulder seams. Pin into place.

Pin along each shoulder edge.

Bring the second yoke piece to the back, around the rolled Bodice pieces, align and pin to the previously pinned pieces at the shoulder seams.

Sew both shoulder seams with ½ inch seam allowance. 

Trim seam allowances in half.  

Pull your Bodice pieces out through one side, or through the neck of your yoke.  Go slowly and gently, so you don’t stretch out any cut fabric edges.  

Press your shoulder seams. 

If you are doing the sleeveless option, skip to step 6.  Otherwise follow below for the ¾ or long sleeve option.

With right sides together match the sleeve heads at the ends of the armscye and at the marked notch. 

NOTE – The front and Back of the sleeve is labeled on your pattern piece. Be sure to align the correct sleeve on each side of your Bodice.  

Ease the sleeve in at the ½ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will.  

Stitch the sleeve with ½ inch seam allowance.

We are going to finish the armhole using the flat fell method.

Trim the Bodice seam allowance in half. Do not trim the sleeve seam allowance.

Then using the very tip of your scissors make little snips into the cut Bodice seam allowance. Do not snip past the stitching line or you will make a hole. Snip just inside the seam allowance. This will help the seam sit flatter. 

Do not snip the sleeve seam allowance.

Press the armhole seam allowance towards the Bodice. 

Fold the raw edge of the armhole seam allowance in half towards the Bodice seam allowance. Tuck this folded edge under the shorter blouse seam allowance. 

Press up towards the Bodice and pin.

Stitch close to the folded edge all the way around the armhole, keeping approximately the same distance from the seam all the way around. This becomes your top stitching around the armhole when you look at it from the right side of the blouse.

Repeat steps 5.1 – 5.7 with the other sleeve.

Skip to step 7.

If you are doing the ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 8. If you are doing the long sleeve option, skip to step 9. Otherwise follow below for the sleeveless option.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the armhole. Turn the serged edge under ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Top stitch. Then skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Open the single fold bias tape and pin it along the armhole, right sides together, aligning raw edges. 

Stitch along the first fold about ¼ inch from the raw edge.

Trim the seam allowance ⅛ inch (in half).

Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch. 

Go slowly and make sure you don’t cut into your stitches or you’ll end up with a hole!

Press the bias binding and the seam allowance up, away from the armhole.

Wrong sides facing up, understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ inch from the edge or as close as you can.

NOTE – Understitching is when you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This helps your bias tape stay rolled to the inside, so you can’t see it and makes the armhole edges crisp.

Fold the bias all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and pin the folded edge of your binding just under your stitching line, enclosing all raw edges. 

NOTE – The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and won’t be seen from the right side.

Edgestitch the bias to the armhole about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape. This will become your topstitching on the front of the garment.

Trim off the binding excess.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.6. for the other armscye.

NOTE – This step is the same for all sleeve options (sleeveless, ¾ or long). With the sleeve option you will be stitching down the sleeve and side seam. With the sleeveless option, you will just be stitching down the side seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, stitch your side seams with ½ inch seam allowance, then serge to finish the fabric edges.  For sleeveless, be sure to tack down your serger tails for a clean finish at the underarm.  Then skip to step 8 for ¾ sleeves, step 9 for long sleeves, or step 12 for sleeveless.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.  

Wrong sides together, align side seams, from sleeve raw edge, or underarm seam if sewing the sleeveless version, down through the Bodice to the waist edge.  Make sure to match underarm seams and pin.

Using ¼ inch seam allowance stitch the side seam from the sleeve edge, or underarm seam, to waist.

Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.  

NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.

Turn the garment so the right sides are facing and press the side seam. Make sure your previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold.  

TIP – Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the garment inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.  

Pin and stitch approximately ¼ inch from the edge.  This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).  

Press the seam allowance toward the front of the sleeve and Bodice.  

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for your other side seam.  

TIP – If you are doing a sleeveless dress, now is a good time for you to try your Bodice on to check the armscye for gaping. Slip it on and hold the front overlapped.  If you find your armscye gapes a smidge more than you like under the arm, you can remove the stitches you just sewed and sew a bit further from the folded edge, about ½ inch instead of ¼ inch.

If you are doing the sleeveless option, skip to step 12. If you are doing the long sleeve option, skip to step 9.  

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the bottom edge of your sleeve. Do not remove any fabric. Turn up ½ inch and topstitch. Then continue to step 12.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

With your garment turned inside out, turn the bottom edge of your sleeve ¼ inch up. Stitch and press.

Turn another ¼ inch to the inside of your sleeve and press.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the top of the folded edge.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 for the other sleeve.

Skip to step 12.

If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 12. 

With sleeve facing wrong side up, use the transferred line you marked earlier and draw a box ⅜ inch around your marking.

NOTE – This is the red line shown to the left.  The yellow line is the marking you made in the preparation steps.

These lines will be our stitch lines in steps 9.3 and 9.4.

NOTE – There is a left and right sleeve, so the marking will be on the opposite side for each sleeve.

Cut up your slit marking (shown in yellow in step 9.1) stopping ½ inch before you reach the top of the box. 

Then carefully snip from the top of your cut slit towards each corner. Do not go beyond the corner, just as close to it as you can.

We are now going to stitch the sleeve slit to the sleeve, using the stitch lines you drew. It will go up one side of the slit, across the top and Back down the other side. If you have difficulty visualizing this, skip ahead to step 9.5 and have a look at what it will look like when complete, then come Back and continue.

Place the sleeve slit piece facing right sides together with the sleeve.

The raw edge of one side of the sleeve slit piece should match up with the cut you made along the sleeve slit marking.

From the wrong side of the sleeve, stitch along the first straight stitching line (where your markings are shown in red in step 9.1).  When you get to the end, lower your needle down, ready to turn.

Keeping your needle down, lift your presser foot and turn your fabric a quarter turn (90 degrees) so it is now facing along the short stitching line you drew in step 9.1.

Check that the sleeve fabric is still matching up against the raw edge of the sleeve slit. The point created by the two cuts at the top of the slit marking should match up with the raw edge of the sleeve slit piece.

Lower the presser foot and stitch along the short straight stitching line to the end of your marking. With your needle down, lift your presser foot, ready to turn your fabric.

NOTE – Your sleeve slit piece should now be stitched up one side and across the top of the slit.

Turn your fabric so the needle is now facing along the last long stitching line you drew in step 9.1.

Check that the sleeve fabric is still matching up against the raw edge of the sleeve slit. 

Lower the presser foot and stitch along the long straight stitching line. Backstitch at the end of this seam.

Cut the excess fabric off the sleeve slit so the sleeve lines up to the sleeve slit.

From the right side of the sleeve, straighten out the sleeve slit piece. Carefully trim the seam allowance all the way along, to about half its width.

Press the sleeve slit and the seam allowance up, away from the cuff.

From the wrong side of the sleeve, press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve slit.

Understitch the seam allowance to the sleeve slit ⅛ inch from the edge or as close as you can.

Fold the raw edge of the sleeve slit under by ⅜ inch. Press.

Fold the sleeve slit over again, this time in half so the folded edge matches up with the seam. The raw edges should now be hidden inside. Top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the seam to secure.

TIP – Use lots of pins to secure the fold. Then do your top stitching from the right side of the sleeve so that you can make sure you get a nice neat line of stitching parallel to the seam. If you find when you are finished that you haven’t quite caught all of the folded edge of the sleeve slit on the wrong side in your stitching, hand stitch this down using a needle and thread.

Place the two sides of the sleeve slit together and press the top of the slit into a point.  

Top stitch the point in place approximately ⅛ inch from the edge by stitching a little triangle around it. 

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.10 for the other sleeve and sleeve slit.

If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 12.

Fold the sleeve right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the pleat.

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings.

With wrong side facing up, fold the sleeve Back at your second pleat marking. Pin.

Baste your pleat with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other sleeve.

If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 12.

NOTE – This step cannot be completed using a serger.

Place lining cuff (this piece has interfacing ironed on) wrong side facing up. Fold ½ inch to the wrong side of the bottom edge. Press.

Place lining cuff and outer cuff, right sides together.  Match your underarm marking on the outer cuff to the folded bottom edge of the lining cuff. 

Pin along the top long edge.  

Sew the long, top edge with ½ inch seam allowance.  

Fold the cuff piece and the sleeve piece in half and pin to mark the center. 

Right sides together, pin your outer cuff to the sleeve edge starting at the center marked point.

Your cuff should be about 1 inch longer than your sleeve edge.  Let this overhang equally on each end. 

Pin your cuff lining out of the way. Sew cuff to sleeve.  

Press seam toward cuff.  

Right sides together, pin short edges of cuff outer to cuff lining, enclosing the sleeve.  

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Make sure your sleeve doesn’t get caught in these stitches.

Trim seam allowance and clip corners to reduce bulk.  

Turn the cuff collar right sides out and press.  

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch ⅛ inch around all four edges of your cuff.  Be sure to enclose the sleeve seam allowance into the cuff.  

Sew a buttonhole, using the markings you previously transferred. 

 TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through. 

Attach button where you previously marked.

NOTE – The markings on the pattern pieces show the button hole as horizontal along the cuff. This is the traditional way to sew a buttonhole as it allows ‘give’ in the sleeve, so the cuff can move slightly with you. If you’d prefer a tighter fit or a cuff that does not move as much, try the cuff on to check fit and sew it vertically as per this photo with the placement you prefer.

Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.8 for the other sleeve.

This step is the same for all skirt lengths.

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, right sides together, stitch each skirt panel to the neighboring panel, leaving the front open.  Then serge the edges to finish.  Press all seams toward the back.  Press the center seam to the left.  Then skip to step 13.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

We will now stitch each of your skirt panels together using a French seam, leaving only the center front open.  We will be following the same steps we did for steps 7.1 to 7.3.  

Wrong sides together place one of the center front skirt pieces with one of your skirt side front pieces.  Pin and stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance by about half. Turn so that wrong sides are together. 

Press. 

Stitch again at ¼ inch. Open skirt pieces and press the French seam toward the back.

Attach a skirt side front panel to a skirt side Back panel, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat the above step for the other half of your skirt.  

Use a French seam to attach your two skirt center Back panels.

Press this seam to the left.  

Your skirt should now be fully assembled in a circle with just the skirt center front panels not stitched together.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, right sides together, pin Bodice to skirt, matching center back, sides seams, and front edges. Stitch, then serge edges to finish. Press seam toward Bodice. Then skip to step 14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below: 

As we did in step 3.1, find the center Back of your Bodice.

We will be following the same steps we did for steps 7.1 to 7.3 to stitch the skirt to the Bodice, using a French seam.

Place your Bodice, wrong sides together, and pin your skirt to your Bodice. Match center back, side seams, and both front edges. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance. Turn the skirt on top of the Bodice with wrong side facing up. Press and stitch again at ¼ inch.  

Press seam allowance up toward the Bodice.  

Wrong side of the dress facing up, fold the front edge to the wrong side ¼ inch.

Press.

Fold again along the fold line on the pattern pieces. Press.

This will encase your raw edges.  

Fold again 1 ⅜ (1.375) of an inch in from the folded edge. Press.

This will encase your raw edges.

TIP – There are small notches along the top and bottom edge of the front Bodice piece which denote the 1 ⅜ of an inch in to fold. If you prefer, use these markings to draw a fold line using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker and continue the fold line down along the skirt.

Topstitch ⅛ inch close to edge.  

OPTIONAL – Also topstitch ⅛ inch from folded edge.

Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.3 for the opposite front dress piece.

Align upper collar pieces, right sides together along both short and one long edges.  

Sew with ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.

Turn right side out, push out your corners, and press. Roll your seam a little to the underside, and press.

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners.  You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the collar about ⅛ inch from the edge.

Press the bottom edge of the under collar lining (yellow contrasting piece shown here) ½ inch to the wrong side.

Lay your upper collar piece, right side up. Align your under collar lining right sides together (unfolded edge) to the raw edge of the upper collar, matching the notches.

Match centers. Pin in place.

NOTE – These will match along the ½ inch seam allowance, but not necessarily along the raw edges.  

Right side down, align your under collar piece along this edge.  

Continue pinning along the short, curved edges of the two under collar pieces.

Sew along the short & long sides with ½ inch seam allowance, being sure not to catch the upper collar.  

Trim seam allowance and clip curves.

Turn right side out and press.

Find centers of Bodice Back neckline and raw edge of collar.  

Matching center points and ends, pin collar to Bodice.

NOTE – Pin along ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.  

Sew with ½ inch seam allowance.

The ½ inch seam allowance helps the collar stand up when the dress is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than ½ way into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Press seam allowance up, into the collar.  

Topstitch ⅛ inch all the way around lower collar, enclosing the seam allowance into the collar. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge along bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side.  Topstitch close to the edge.  Then skip to step 17.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Press bottom edge of skirt up ½ inch to the wrong side.  

Press folded bottom edge ½ inch to the wrong side again, to enclose raw edges.    

Edgestitch the hem about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

Sew buttonholes on the front placket, using the markings you previously transferred. 

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.

NOTE – There are markings provided for buttons all the way up to the neck and most of the way down the skirt. Depending on the length you’ve chosen and how you wish to wear your dress, you may wish to omit the first button up at the neck and/or any of the lower buttons to allow a gap between the lowest button and the hem.

Attach buttons to the opposite front placket, using the markings you previously transferred.

TIP – If you find you regularly have gaping at the bust when you wear button front shirts, you can add extra prevention against this by trying on your dress now.  Mark center bust for a buttonhole. Then distribute your buttonholes evenly from that point. Be sure to place a button at the very top, just under your collar. Also match your button markings to your new buttonholes before attaching. 

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check Back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold your belt loop piece in half and press.  

Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step. Press.

Fold in half, along your original fold line and press.

Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.

Press each short end ¼ inch to the wrong side.  

Align belt loop onto dress, along the side seam and centered over the waist seam, with folded edges facing down. 

Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, sew along each short edge to attach to your dress, catching the folded edges.

Repeat steps 18.1 to 18.4 for the second belt loop.

TIP – You can use your own belt here if you prefer. Skip step 18 and your dress is complete.

Fold belt in half, right sides together, aligning all raw edges.

Pin and sew with ½ inch seam allowance along the long edge and one short edge.

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.

Turn right sides out.

There are several ways to turn the belt tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.

Insert the loop turner inside the belt tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner Back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.

Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.

From your unfinished short edge, slide your buckle onto the belt. Loop the belt over the center bar of the buckle and pull through just far enough that you’ll be able to sew the short end to the belt.

Pin in place.

Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, stitch along the raw edge to secure your belt buckle.  This will also finish your raw edge.  

Slide your finished belt through your belt loops.