Women's Sonia Skirt

Pattern markings

Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric. 

• For Maxi length skirts, transfer all buttonhole markings. 
• For Midi length skirts, skip the last 2 buttonholes markings on the skirt (the buttons should not go all the way to the hem, but stop just before it). 
• For Knee length skirts, skip the last buttonhole marking on the skirt.
• Mark button placement using the center point of each buttonhole.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the following pieces:

• Front and Back Lining Waistbands
• Facing to be applied to the front edges of each center front skirt piece

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing pieces before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, and wearing the garment. If you don’t stay stitch, the waist is likely to stretch during construction and, then, the waistband won’t fit properly when you try to attach it. Directional stay stitching (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting while we sew the rest of the garment. We will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch each skirt piece (x8) at the waist, in the direction of the arrows. 

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching the seam, lay the skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the skirt is complete, then hang the skirt from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, right sides together, stitch each skirt panel to the neighboring panel using ½ inch seam allowance, leaving the front open. Then serge the raw edges to finish.  Press all seams toward the back. Press the center seam to the left. Then skip to step 2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our skirt. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

Wrong sides together, align and pin Center Back to Side Back panel, from waist edge down to the hem.

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance stitch the side back seam from the waist edge to the hem.

Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.  

NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.

Turn the back panels so the right sides are facing, press the side back seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold.  

TIP – Press the seam allowances toward the back before turning the skirt right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.  

Pin and stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).  

Press the seam allowance toward the wearer’s left.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach a Side Front panel to a Side Back panel, repeating the French seam step.  

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach a Center Front panel to the Side Front panel, repeating the French seam step.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other half of the skirt.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach the two Center Back panels.

Press this seam to the left. 

The skirt should now be fully assembled in a circle with just the skirt Center Front panels not stitched together.

Lay the wrong side of the Skirt facing up, fold the front edge to the wrong side a ¼ inch.

Press.

Fold over again by 1 inch. Press.

This will encase the raw edges.

Topstitch an ⅛ inch from the edge.  

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge at the center front.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the opposite Front Skirt piece.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front Placket.

If you prefer to use bias tape for your Belt Loops skip to step 3.3.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along!

Fold the Belt Loop piece in half and press.  

Open the Belt Loop piece so it lays flat and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the centerfold made in the previous step. Press.

Fold in half, along the original fold line and press.

Topstitch an ⅛ inch from each long edge.

Cut the Belt Loop into six equal pieces.

Along a short edge, pin one Outer Front Waistband to an Outer Back Waistband right sides together. 

NOTE – The Outer (main) Waistband pieces are not interfaced.

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.  

Press the seam allowance open.  

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the second Outer Front Waistband.  

OPTIONAL Belt Loops – If not adding Belt Loops, skip to step 4.7.  

Align the raw edge of each Belt Loop to the top and bottom edges of the outer waistband according to the measurements below, or your own personal preference.  

Back Belt Loops – 1 inch on both sides of center back

Side Belt Loops – Center 1 over each side seam

Front Belt Loops – 3 inches from the center front raw edge on both sides

Baste Belt Loops in place, along both the top and bottom edges.  

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

NOTE – The Belt Loops are longer than the Waistband.  They won’t lie flat when basted on both ends.  This creates the room for the belt to slide through.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for Waistband Lining.  

NOTE – The Lining Waistband pieces are interfaced.

Right sides together, align the Outer Waistband to the Waistband Lining along one of the long edges.  Pin together, making sure the side seams match. 

Stitch the long edge of the Waistband, using ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

Open the Waistband and press the seam towards the Waistband Lining. 

Then turn the bottom edge of the Waistband Lining a ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Align the long edge of the Outer Waistband with the top edge of the skirt.  Pin together, matching the side seams.  

Stitch the Waistband to the skirt with a ½ inch seam allowance.  

The waistband will overhang the finished edges of the skirt by a ½ inch.  

With the long edge of the lining pressed up, align the short ends of the Outer and Lining Waistband together and pin. 

Stitch them together using ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the corners to help reduce bulk. 

NOTE – Be sure not to catch the Skirt in this seam.  

Flip the waistband right sides out.  

Press the seam allowance of the Skirt and Outer Waistband up, toward the Waistband.  

Pin along the waistband. Making sure to catch the seam allowances inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.

TIP – Pin from the right side of the skirt along the seam between the Skirt and the Waistband. Flip it over to check as you go. 

We are going to ‘stitch in the ditch’. This is where you stitch exactly on top of a previous seam. You will just catch the other side of the waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden. The stitching won’t easily be visible in the finished garment.

From the right side of the skirt, start at the LEFT Center front and stitch along the entire waist seam, where the Skirt meets the Waistband. 

Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Skirt flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it’s not visible on the finished Skirt. Occasionally, lift the Skirt up to check that you are catching the other side of the Waistband.

TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Skirt instead of the Waistband. This usually ends up fairly invisible.

ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the actual Waistband (approximately an ⅛ inch from the crease). The stitching will be more visible, but it’s much easier! Or you can hand sew using a slipstitch.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around the Waistband.  

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge along the bottom edge.  Do not remove any fabric.  Press 1 inch to the wrong side.  Edgestitch about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.  Then skip to step 7.1.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

Press the bottom edge of skirt up a ½ inch to the wrong side.  

Press the folded bottom edge a ½ inch to the wrong side again, to enclose the raw edges.    

Edgestitch the hem about an ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem.

Sew buttonholes on the Front Placket, using the markings you previously transferred. 

NOTE – Stitch your buttonholes on the right side (with buttons on the left).

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through.

NOTE – There are markings provided for buttonholes all the way down the skirt. Depending on the length you’ve chosen and how you wish to wear your skirt, you may wish to omit some of the lower buttons to allow a gap between the lowest button and the hem.

Attach buttons to the opposite Front Placket, using the markings you previously transferred.

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, compare to your buttonholes before stitching to ensure they are going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge each of the 5 straight sides of the pocket, without taking anything off. Follow along with step 8, skipping step 8.5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Fold the side seam allowance of each pocket under ⅝ inch and press.

Fold the bottom diagonal seam allowances of each pocket under ⅝ inch one-by-one and press. 

Open up the seam allowances. Trim in half.

NOTE – Doing this isn’t strictly necessary, but it means the raw edge of the seam allowance will get caught between the two rows of topstitching we will do in the next step. 

Press the seam allowances back down again.

Turn the top edge of each Front Pocket under ½ inch and press.

Turn the pocket over and top stitch close to the folded edge ⅛ inch from the edge.

Stitch from the right side of the pocket if you are using topstitch thread so that the decorative thread shows rather than the bobbin thread.

Topstitch again, close to the edge that’s folded underneath to hold it in place. 

Again, you will need to stitch from the right side of the pocket if you are using topstitch thread so that the decorative thread shows rather than the bobbin thread.

Your stitching should be ½ inch from the edge of the pocket, close enough to catch the folded edge underneath and also look like it’s a similar distance to the other top stitching we did before.

Measure 4 inches down from the top of one of the middle front pieces and mark with a pin horizontally.

Pin one of the pockets to the front, matching the top of the pocket to the pin. 

The pocket should be centered over the seam between the Skirt Front and Skirt Side seam.

We are going to sew two rows of topstitching around the pocket to secure it now and include a little cross at the top of each pocket for strength.

To do this, stitch a small diagonal from the bottom row of top stitching (starting in line with the inside row of stitching from the front middle piece above the pocket). Then stitch down, around and back up the pocket. Repeat the little diagonal on the other side. This stitching should be close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch).

OPTIONAL – Use a twin needle to stitch the two rows of topstitching.

TIP – Instead of stitching a cross, you could add bar tacks at the top on each side to secure it. You can do this by using a zigzag stitch with a length of 0.5mm and a width of 0.3mm.

Repeat on the other side of the pocket with the diagonal going in the other direction and the stitching a ½ inch from the edge.

Repeat steps 8.4 to 8.6 to attach the other front pocket to the other front piece.

Fold the belt in half, right sides together, aligning all raw edges.

Pin and sew with a ½ inch seam allowance along the long edge and one short edge.

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove the bulk.

Turn right sides out.

There are several ways to turn the belt tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.

Insert the loop turner inside the belt tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.

Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.

From your unfinished short edge, slide the buckle onto the belt. Loop the belt over the center bar of the buckle and pull through just far enough that you’ll be able to sew the short end to the belt.

Pin in place.

Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, stitch along the raw edge to secure the belt buckle.  This will also finish the raw edge.  

Slide the finished belt through your belt loops.