Women's The Mariella Dress

The Mariella

Difficulty Level = Beginner

A beautiful jersey knee length dress with crossover knot detail and flattering frills falling from just under the bust line. This dress is perfect for regular wear or nursing. The skirt has two options, a smooth front for regular wear, or elasticated across the front waist area for nursing.

The fluted sleeves have two length options (short or three quarter). There are three dress frill options to choose from: short, long, or asymmetrical short and long.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. 
• Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice/old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments. 
• Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct bust measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. Then grade out or into the correct waist & hip size.
• Bust size – The pattern is designed for a sewing C cup. Every person is a slightly different shape, and the bodice will sit differently on different bust shapes and silhouettes. The garment is snug under the bust and loose fitting from there down. Check the under bust finished garment measurement and bust size chart measurement to select your size, to ensure that the garment fits well around the bust and at the shoulders. The finished bust measurement will be larger than your bust as it’s slightly gathered there. If needed, grade between them and or do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or Small Bust Adjustment (SBA). There are excellent tutorials available online. We do have our own free FBA available here.
  • Given that this skirt is loose fitting from under the bust, if you fall into a different waist or hip measurement please check the finished garment measurement. It’s generously sized in this area, so you may not need to grade.
• Length – The dress is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller or shorter and wish to adjust the height, there a few places you may need to adjust:
  • Mid way through the armscye on both the Front and Back Bodice and base.
  • Hem on the sleeves. 
  • Front bodice frill – cut straight across the top of the frill (along the bodice waist) and add/remove length to the waist (not the frill). Then add the frill piece back onto the front bodice.
  • Shoulders. Try your garment on inside out and move the shoulder seam down/up 1 inch to lift the garment if the neckline is too low. Remember, this will lift the whole bodice, so you may need to add more length to the bodice and through the armscye. 
  • Hem on the Front Skirt and Back Skirt. Before hemming, try your dress on your model if possible. Remove any excess fabric, remember to leave the seam allowance for your hem. 
    • The weight of your fabric will also affect how long your skirt is (e.g., a heavy knit will pull the fabric and make it longer). Once you remove some of the length, it will not be as heavy and will not hang as long. Trim only a small amount, try it on again, and if needed trim again until you are happy. 
    • Make sure to leave a ¾ inch hem allowance if you make any height adjustments.
  • If you need to add or remove height from the hem before you get to the end and you’ve chosen the long frill, you’ll also need to make an adjustment to the frill.  
    • Removing length – Starting at the bottom straight edge, measure up the inside curve of the frill the same length you are removing from your skirt.  Draw a line 90 degrees from this spot, straight to the other side of your frill.  
    • Adding length – From the straight edge, along the inside curve, continue drawing this curve the same length you are adding to your skirt.  Draw a line 90 degrees from this spot, straight out.  Continue drawing the outer curve to meet this line.  
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. 
  • Cut out all pieces and label them with tailors chalk / fabric pen. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

• Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however best results & fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric. 
• Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it is designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e., A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size. 
• A fabric with 4 way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2 way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish around your legs more.
• Light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc. will give a lovely drape and swing.
• Generally, knit/stretch fabrics are heavier than wovens. You may find you need to hem your garment slightly higher if it stretches out in length while wearing it.

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Nursing OPTION – ⅜ inch wide Elastic. Approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a washable fabric marker, and a needle/twin needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

NOTE – The elastic length is approximate. You may need to adjust this dependent on brand and depth of the elastic. It will also depend on your personal preference as to how firm you want this on your body, and how far you need to lift the dress up over your bust. I suggest holding the elastic against your body to get the correct length for you.

 Cutting Checklist: 

• OPTION: Short Frill Front Bodice – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) (use with any length option) 
• OPTION: Long Frill Front Bodice – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) (knee or tea length)
• OPTION: Long and Short Frill Front Bodice – cut 1 Short Frill Bodice and 1 x Long Frill Bodice (1x mirror image pair) (knee or tea length)
• Back Bodice – cut 1 on fold
• Front Skirt – cut 1 on fold (top, knee, or tea length) 
  • NOTE – Use the top cutting line for the non-nursing option. Use the bottom cutting line for the nursing option
• Back Skirt – cut 1 on fold (top, knee, or tea length)
• Back Neckband – cut 1
• OPTION: Short Sleeve – cut 2 on fold
• OPTION: ¾ Sleeve – cut 2 on fold
• Elastic – see cutting chart above for measurements

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or chalk.

Sewing –

1. FRONT – With right side up, take the bottom corner of the side seam and match it to the corner at the end of the curve. Pin until you reach the pattern markings matching these. Stitch. With both Front Bodice pieces right side up, take the bottom of the bodice that has not been sewn and insert it through the opening. Continue pulling the Bodice through until one of the pattern markings comes through the opening. There should be a pattern marking on each side of the knot. Again, match up the bottom corner of the side seam with the corner at the end of the curve, pin, and stitch.
2. NECKBAND – Fold the Neckband in half with the wrong sides together and press. Pin the Neckband to the right side of the Back Bodice and stitch. Flip the Neckband up and press the seam. Optional topstitch.
3. SHOULDER SEAMS – Place the Back Bodice on top of the Front Bodice with the rights side together. Pick up the point at the top of the Front Bodice, fold it over the shoulder seam and pin. Stitch. Repeat for the other shoulder seam.
4. SLEEVES – With the right sides together, pin the Sleeve to the armscye matching the notch and shoulder seam. Pin each end of the Sleeve to the edge of the armscye. Stitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
5. ATTACHING THE SKIRT TO THE BODICE – With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the Front Bodice to the top edge of the Front Skirt. Stitch. With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the Back Bodice to the top edge of the Back Skirt. Stitch.
6. NURSING OPTION: ATTACHING THE SKIRT TO THE BODICE – Cut the Front Skirt at the lower cut line. Pin the elastic evenly to the wrong side of the Front Skirt. Stitch. Fold the elastic down to the wrong side and pin. Topstitch. With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the Front Bodice to the top edge of the Front Skirt. Stitch. With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the Back Bodice to the top edge of the Back Skirt. Stitch.
7. SIDE SEAMS – Baste the frill to the side of the Front Skirt, with both the frill and the skirt right side up. Repeat for the opposite frill. With the right sides together, pin the front dress to the back dress at the side seam. Stitch. Repeat for the opposite side seam.
8. OPTIONAL HEM – Fold the bottom hem ⅜ inch to the wrong side, press, and pin. Topstitch close to the folded edge. Repeat for Sleeves.  

Congratulations, your Mariella is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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