Zipper Top & Dress

Difficulty Level = Beginner 

The Zipper Top & Dress is designed to be made with knit fabric and is packed full of options so it can be created exactly how you want. The options for this dolman style pattern starts with three neckline options, a high v-neckline, low v-neck, and a scoop neck. There are two sleeve lengths, short and ¾ sleeves, and it can be made with no zippers, or optional zippers in the center front, center back, and along both shoulder seams. Ruching can also be added along any seam to add a touch of fun.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C

Size Chart

Finished Measurements (Inches)

Fitting Notes

The Zipper Top & Dress is extremely wide. The finished garment chest measurement is roughly twice your chest measurement. This is correct, and the result is what gives the garment its drape. 

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries & stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.

• Picking your size – When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. Then, grade out or into the correct waist size.
• Height adjustment – This pattern is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, use this tutorial as a guide for making height adjustments to your bodice and sleeve. 

• Bust adjustment – 
  • The Women’s Regular pattern is designed for a sewing C cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to make this adjustment to your pattern pieces. Given it is designed for knit/stretch fabrics and it has a large, draped look, the sizing will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are pinned in the link below.
  • The Women’s Curvy pattern is designed for a sewing E cup (approximately, a ready-to-wear D cup). If your bust size is above a F cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free tutorial to make this adjustment to your pattern pieces.
• Sleeve length – There are two sleeve options (short, and ¾ sleeve). The short sleeve option is designed to sit at the elbow due to the dolman design of the top. The ¾ length sleeve sits mid-way down the forearm. 

• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. 
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front and Back. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!

If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

Materials & Tools

You will need a stretch / knit fabric with a 50% stretch. Best results will be achieved with a fabric with drape. The more drape, the more flowing & relaxed your top will look, for example a cotton lycra 5% will fit, but it won’t drape and flow under the arms where the excess fabric sits. A great choice is lightweight knit such as rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey as they will drape and flow in a much more relaxed way. The less drape, the more structured your top will look like French terry, hacci sweater knit, interlock, ponte.

• To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length). 

* Do not use a woven fabric.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• 1x – 4x Zipper – See the zipper chart in the cutting charts for recommended zipper length. Any type of zipper can be used, such as a plastic, metal, separating, and non-separating, although we do not recommend using an invisible zipper. 
  • NOTE – If you adding ruching to any of the seams, the lengths needed for the zippers will change. 
• OPTIONAL Wonder tape
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Checklist: 

High/Low Neckline OPTION: 

Front & Back – Fabric cut 4 (2 x mirror image pair)

Low Neckline OPTION:

Front Neckband – Fabric cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)

Back Neckband – Fabric cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)

High Neckline OPTION:

Front Neckband – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)

Back Neckband – Fabric cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)

Scoop Neckline OPTION:

Back – Fabric cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)

Front – Fabric cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)

NOTE – The Scoop Neckline does not use a neckband to finish the neckline. 

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at, and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ¼ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem – ½ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

• CENTER FRONT, CENTER BACK, AND SHOULDERS – Place Front pieces right side together, aligning along center front seam. Pin and stitch. If adding a zipper to center front seam, skip to Back pieces.  Place Back pieces right side together, aligning along center back seam. Pin and stitch. If adding a zipper to center front seam, skip to Shoulder seams. Place Front and Back pieces right side together, aligning the shoulder seams. Pin and stitch. If adding a zipper to center front seam, skip to step 2.

• SIDE SEAMS – Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin side seams. Stitch. Repeat for second side seam. 

• OPTIONAL V-NECK NECKBANDS – NO ZIPPERS: Place the short ends of right sides together. Pin and stitch. Repeat to attach the two Front Neckband pieces along either side of the Back Neckband pieces aligning the short straight edges. Pin. Stitch. Press. Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, right sides together. Fold the Neckband in half again widthwise, matching the short edges. Pin all four layers. Stitch. Open up and fold along seamline, wrong sides together. Press seam. Starting at the V, baste 2 inches up one side, then 2 inches up the other side. Find and mark center of back neckline on bodice and Neckband. Baste 2 inches up one side, then 2 inches up the other side. Snip into the v. Place Neckband onto neck of bodice, right sides together, matching center backs and center front to the V. Pin, stretching Neckband slightly to fit. Start at center back to center front, stitch. Turn bodice and stitch from center front to center back on other side. Press seam. OPTIONAL Topstitch. ZIPPERS: Lay out four Neckband pieces. On the seams you are adding zippers, do not stitch the Neckband pieces together. Place two Neckband pieces together, matching the short, straight ends. Pin. Stitch. Repeat to attach the remaining pieces together. Press. Starting at the right front of the bodice, align the raw edges of the Neckband with the raw edges of the neckline. Pin. Stitch. Press seam. OPTIONAL Topstitch.

• OPTIONAL SCOOP TOP NECK FINISH – OPTIONAL serge/zigzag stitch the top edge of the neckline. Turn the top edge of the bodice over once ⅜ inch. Press. Pin. Topstitch. 

• RUCHING – Ruching can be added to any seam. If you are adding ruching, decide how much you would like to shorten your top or dress. I.e. to shorten by 4 inches, use 4 inches of elastic and stretch 8 inches of the seam. Mark the length you want to shorten your top or dress along the edge of the seam on both the Front and Back. Add an inch to the length you have calculated for your elastic. Mark ½ inch from each end of elastic. Match top markings on wrong side of the Back slightly outside the ⅜ inch seam allowance. Pin. Gently pull elastic and match bottom markings. Pin. Stitch a few stitches from the top pin using a straight stitch. Pull the bottom pin and elastic, stretching the elastic so the fabric lays flat. Continue stitching until you reach the bottom pin. Trim elastic. Stitch and gather each Front seam to match the Back seams. Baste. Stitch. Repeat for each seam you are ruching.

• HEM – OPTIONAL finish raw edge of Sleeve. Fold Sleeve hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Topstitch. Repeat for second Sleeve. Finish raw edge. Fold hem ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. 

• ZIPPERS – Lay the zipper and top or dress right sides facing, line the zipper teeth up with the top of the bodice, pin, stitch. Repeat on other side. Open zipper, flip seam allowance open so it lays flat. Fold the zipper into the seam allowance. Pin and stitch. Repeat on other side of the seam. OPTIONAL Topstitch. Fold the zipper tape ends to the wrong side. Pin. Stitch a bar tack. Repeat for any other seams you are adding zippers to.  

Congratulations, your Zipper Top & Dress is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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