Zoe Zip Pouches

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to all Pouch main and lining pieces.

If you prefer to use optional bias binding for your Zipper Tab skip to step 1.4. 

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Zipper Tab in half length ways, wrong sides together, matching the long raw edges.  Press.  

TIP – Do not use a thick fabric for the Zipper Tab as it can be tricky to stitch and attach to the Zipper.

Open the Zipper Tab then fold both long raw edges to the center.  Press.  

Refold along the center edge, placing all raw edges inside.  

Trim the tails of the zipper end.  

NOTE – Check the zipper finished length required for your size pouch. If your zipper is longer, trim it to the correct length and stitch a bar tack to close the zipper.

Slide the zipper end in between the folded edges of the Zipper Tab. Pin. 

Topstitch using an ⅛ inch seam allowance along the folded edge of the Zipper Tab.  Stitch slowly over the zipper teeth.  

NOTE – If using a metal zipper go very slowly over the zipper teeth to make sure the needle doesn’t hit the metal. The needle can bend or break if it hits the metal zipper teeth.

Trim the Zipper Tab to just a little wider than the zipper tape.

Using the remaining piece of the Zipper Tab, repeat steps 1.5 to 1.7 to attach it to the opposite side of the zipper.

Zipper Hold Tabs can make it easier to open and close the Pouch. If you are not adding these, skip to step 3. If you are adding them follow below. If you would prefer to use optional bias binding for your Zipper Hold Tab skip to step 2.2. 

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the Zipper Hold Tab.  

Topstitch ⅛ inch along both long edges.

Fold the Zipper Hold Tab in half, matching the short raw edges.  

Centering the Zipper Hold Tab with the zipper, align raw edges of the Zipper Hold Tab underneath the folded edge of the Zipper Tab.  Pin in place.  

Topstitch on top of the previous Zipper Tab stitches  ⅛ inch away from the edge, catching the Zipper Hold Tab underneath.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the second Zipper Hold Tab, attaching it to the other side of the zipper.  

With the Pouch Lining right side facing up, place the zipper, right sides facing up, in the center. Align the top raw edge of the Pouch Lining with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.  

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Place the Main Pouch right side facing down, lining up the top raw edge with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.  

They will now be layered in this order: Lining facing up, zipper facing up, Main facing down. 

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – If you have added the optional Zipper Hold Tabs do not catch them in this seam.

Flip the Main Pouch over, so wrong sides of the Main and Lining are facing.  Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the zipper tape, between the Zipper Tabs, ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.  

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 with the second Pouch Lining and Main Pouch pieces on the other side of the zipper.  

Open the zipper ⅔ of the way and open both layers of the Pouch. Align the right sides of the Pouch Lining pieces together, and right sides of the Main Pouch together.  

Pin together along both side edges and the bottom edges.

Stitch down one side edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

NOTE – If you have added the optional Zipper Hold Tabs do not catch them in this seam.

Stitch down the second side edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

NOTE – If you have added the optional Zipper Hold Tabs do not catch them in this seam.

Stitch across the bottom edge of the Main Pouch, using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Stitch across the bottom edge of the Pouch Lining, using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap for turning.  

NOTE – For the smaller sizes, a 2-inch gap is plenty for turning. For the larger sizes, a 3 to 4-inch gap is helpful.  

Press all seams flat, as sewn.

Press all seam allowances open.

NOTE – This method of pressing helps the pouch have a bit more crispness and sturdiness to stand.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Starting with the Main Pouch, match the corner edges, right sides together, pulling it flat. Make sure to line up the edge seam with the bottom seam.  

Pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.  

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 for the other three corners.  

Turn the Pouch right side out, pulling the Main Pouch through the Pouch Lining gap left in step 4.5.  

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the gap left in step 4.5.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 6.2 to 6.3 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pouch so that the tail is now hidden inside.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

Push the Pouch Lining back inside the Main Pouch, making sure to push the whole lining in and adjusting it to sit correctly.

If you are not adding the optional zipper pull, you’re done!  To add the optional zipper pull, continue below.

Cut a piece of ribbon approximately 5 inches long.  

Fold the ribbon in half, wrong sides together, matching the short edges.  

Slide the folded edge through largest hole in the zipper slider. 

Then pull the unfolded edges through the loop of the ribbon, forming a knot. 

Pull tight. 

Trim the edges to neaten, straight, at an angle, or even a V.

Finish edges to prevent fraying. You can use fray check or CAREFULLY burn the edges of the ribbon to melt them slightly.